not good, wont start :(
03-12-2008, 11:37 AM
#1
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Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 270
not good, wont start :(
Ok, i just went out to go somewhere, fired it up.. and wow.. real rough idle.. it jumped from 1500rpm down to say 250rpm, in a CYCLE, not touching the gas, it just kept revvin up and down, as if it had trouble breathing??
then i gassed it to try and clean it out and stop, revved high, let off.. stalled.
reaks of gasoline, and will only turn over now.. wont fire up.
i made a new thread cause my other one turned into a discussion about resistors and electronics involving the KS, most are probably bored of looking in there, and wouldnt see this update lol
then i gassed it to try and clean it out and stop, revved high, let off.. stalled.
reaks of gasoline, and will only turn over now.. wont fire up.
i made a new thread cause my other one turned into a discussion about resistors and electronics involving the KS, most are probably bored of looking in there, and wouldnt see this update lol
03-12-2008, 11:46 AM
#3
Possible causes.
Bad coolant temp sensor.
Broken/disconnected vacuum lines.
Bad idle air control valve(iacv)
_____________________
Try starting the car at WOT(wide open throttle) hold it open while cranking, if it starts, be sure to back off the pedal to prevent blowing the engine up.
report results..
Bad coolant temp sensor.
Broken/disconnected vacuum lines.
Bad idle air control valve(iacv)
_____________________
Try starting the car at WOT(wide open throttle) hold it open while cranking, if it starts, be sure to back off the pedal to prevent blowing the engine up.
report results..
03-12-2008, 11:53 AM
#4
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how do i do that?
i just went back out, got it to start up.. it was flooded. hmm
also, theres a loud obnoxious knock coming from right under the front valve cover, sounds like lifters knocking.
Could that be the infamous "clack" of the vtcs ive heard so much about?
what a mess, thanks you guys are life savers for me, im sure i'll get this fixed eventually and it'll be thanks to maxima.org
or i'll get pissed and sell my car lol.. but i hope not
i just went back out, got it to start up.. it was flooded. hmm
also, theres a loud obnoxious knock coming from right under the front valve cover, sounds like lifters knocking.
Could that be the infamous "clack" of the vtcs ive heard so much about?
what a mess, thanks you guys are life savers for me, im sure i'll get this fixed eventually and it'll be thanks to maxima.org
or i'll get pissed and sell my car lol.. but i hope not
03-12-2008, 11:57 AM
#5
--->http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=18
Originally Posted by MaximaN00b
i just went back out, got it to start up.. it was flooded. hmm
also, theres a loud obnoxious knock coming from right under the front valve cover, sounds like lifters knocking.
Could that be the infamous "clack" of the vtcs ive heard so much about?
what a mess, thanks you guys are life savers for me, im sure i'll get this fixed eventually and it'll be thanks to maxima.org
or i'll get pissed and sell my car lol.. but i hope not
also, theres a loud obnoxious knock coming from right under the front valve cover, sounds like lifters knocking.
Could that be the infamous "clack" of the vtcs ive heard so much about?
what a mess, thanks you guys are life savers for me, im sure i'll get this fixed eventually and it'll be thanks to maxima.org
or i'll get pissed and sell my car lol.. but i hope not
Did it just start up, or did you have to do a WOT start?
03-12-2008, 12:35 PM
#6
If you check your vacuum lines like Greeny said, and they turn out to be OK, then move on to checking your injectors and coils.
Injectors: Do you have a multimeter or an ohmmeter? Unplug the harness and check the resistance between the two leads of the front injectors. For the rears, there is a harness towards the passenger side that you can unplug and check them all through it.
Coils: Can be checked in a similar way, or take them out and look for cracks.
Post back if you need pictures or diagrams to find where this stuff is.
Injectors: Do you have a multimeter or an ohmmeter? Unplug the harness and check the resistance between the two leads of the front injectors. For the rears, there is a harness towards the passenger side that you can unplug and check them all through it.
Coils: Can be checked in a similar way, or take them out and look for cracks.
Post back if you need pictures or diagrams to find where this stuff is.
03-12-2008, 12:54 PM
#7
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it just fired right up..
and thanks for the links about the codes, thats gonna take some reading.. so it flashes out blinking color coded lights, kinda like sos.. gotit i think. i'll look soon
heres 2 videos, let you hear the engine, outside and in.
outside:
inside:
and thanks for the links about the codes, thats gonna take some reading.. so it flashes out blinking color coded lights, kinda like sos.. gotit i think. i'll look soon
heres 2 videos, let you hear the engine, outside and in.
outside:
inside:
03-12-2008, 01:00 PM
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 270
If you check your vacuum lines like Greeny said, and they turn out to be OK, then move on to checking your injectors and coils.
Injectors: Do you have a multimeter or an ohmmeter? Unplug the harness and check the resistance between the two leads of the front injectors. For the rears, there is a harness towards the passenger side that you can unplug and check them all through it.
Coils: Can be checked in a similar way, or take them out and look for cracks.
Post back if you need pictures or diagrams to find where this stuff is.
Injectors: Do you have a multimeter or an ohmmeter? Unplug the harness and check the resistance between the two leads of the front injectors. For the rears, there is a harness towards the passenger side that you can unplug and check them all through it.
Coils: Can be checked in a similar way, or take them out and look for cracks.
Post back if you need pictures or diagrams to find where this stuff is.
wheres the harness for the rear bank? and how can I check all 3 thru one harness connection?
03-12-2008, 01:01 PM
#9
sounds like VTCs to me.
In my car, I had some idle fluctuation and poor running problems. The poor running was the coolant temp sensor and the fluctuation was the IACV.
If you get some free time, it still might be a good idea to clean your TB and IACV. Just order the gaskets from a dealer and make sure to have them in your hand before taking anything apart. Also be sure to get the gaskets for the VE30DE and not VG.
In my car, I had some idle fluctuation and poor running problems. The poor running was the coolant temp sensor and the fluctuation was the IACV.
If you get some free time, it still might be a good idea to clean your TB and IACV. Just order the gaskets from a dealer and make sure to have them in your hand before taking anything apart. Also be sure to get the gaskets for the VE30DE and not VG.
03-12-2008, 01:14 PM
#11
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Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 270
codes im getting.. a 10? but there is no 10.. might be doing something alil off..
i got to the ecu.. turned clockwise.. not sure how long lol, then back counterclockwise.
watched it blink.. only saw red light, no green.
blinked like this 1....2....3....4.....5..6.7.8.9.10
Spaced out, first 5 red flashes were slow, next 5 were faster.
i got to the ecu.. turned clockwise.. not sure how long lol, then back counterclockwise.
watched it blink.. only saw red light, no green.
blinked like this 1....2....3....4.....5..6.7.8.9.10
Spaced out, first 5 red flashes were slow, next 5 were faster.
03-12-2008, 01:17 PM
#12
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetts
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wheres the coolant temp sensor and the idle air control valve located?
they SOUND easy and affordble to replace.
and i know the thread to ground out the VTC is around here somewhere, i saw it before. Should i ground mine out? From that clack, im thinking maybe so.. if i ground it out, and that knock goes bye bye, i'll be freaking happy. Will just be unhappy if alot of the top end powers lost
they SOUND easy and affordble to replace.
and i know the thread to ground out the VTC is around here somewhere, i saw it before. Should i ground mine out? From that clack, im thinking maybe so.. if i ground it out, and that knock goes bye bye, i'll be freaking happy. Will just be unhappy if alot of the top end powers lost
03-12-2008, 01:19 PM
#13
codes im getting.. a 10? but there is no 10.. might be doing something alil off..
i got to the ecu.. turned clockwise.. not sure how long lol, then back counterclockwise.
watched it blink.. only saw red light, no green.
blinked like this 1....2....3....4.....5..6.7.8.9.10
Spaced out, first 5 red flashes were slow, next 5 were faster.
i got to the ecu.. turned clockwise.. not sure how long lol, then back counterclockwise.
watched it blink.. only saw red light, no green.
blinked like this 1....2....3....4.....5..6.7.8.9.10
Spaced out, first 5 red flashes were slow, next 5 were faster.
This doesn't mean anything though, the 3rd gen ecu doesn't throw codes like it should, you still may have a malfunctioning sensor, it's a crap shoot..Replace the cheapest thing first=coolant temp sensor.
Please try grounding your vtc solenoids..This may solve your low end lag issue..
03-12-2008, 01:24 PM
#14
For this diagram to make sense, pretend you are standing next to the power steering reservoir and looking at the left side of the plenum. The front ones can also be checked from a single place, but there is no need for that.
From the first video, the engine sounded like it was at least running even, so look for air-related issues first... as opposed to a miss. Those VTCs sounds bad as well.
03-12-2008, 01:27 PM
#15
In his 2nd video the temp needle was 1/2 between H and C, so I think its working.
Another easy test with the coolant temp sensor is that if its no good then the radiator fans will run automatically, so no need to pull codes for it.
Another easy test with the coolant temp sensor is that if its no good then the radiator fans will run automatically, so no need to pull codes for it.
03-12-2008, 01:28 PM
#16
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thanks, going to check the resistance of my injectors now.. after that i will ground the vtc solenoid, link to do the job? its not hard is it? lol.. if i remember correctly, it is.. will have to be a weekend job if it is
03-12-2008, 01:29 PM
#17
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Location: Massachusetts
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IAC is expensive.. grr, rockauto.com seems to have like every part i could ever want, anyone else ever use it?
03-12-2008, 01:33 PM
#18
wheres the coolant temp sensor and the idle air control valve located?
they SOUND easy and affordble to replace.
and i know the thread to ground out the VTC is around here somewhere, i saw it before. Should i ground mine out? From that clack, im thinking maybe so.. if i ground it out, and that knock goes bye bye, i'll be freaking happy. Will just be unhappy if alot of the top end powers lost
they SOUND easy and affordble to replace.
and i know the thread to ground out the VTC is around here somewhere, i saw it before. Should i ground mine out? From that clack, im thinking maybe so.. if i ground it out, and that knock goes bye bye, i'll be freaking happy. Will just be unhappy if alot of the top end powers lost
Coolant temp sensor..
The iacv is located directly under your throttle body..
Looks like this..(off the car)
03-12-2008, 01:34 PM
#19
The IAC can be cleaned up, and then installed with a fresh gasket. I've used rockauto.com for a few things and I've been happy. The selection is large and they ship orders out quick.
03-12-2008, 01:35 PM
#20
The coolant temp sensor has nothing to do with the temp needle inside the car..The CTHS(coolant head temp sensor) controls the temp needle.
03-12-2008, 01:39 PM
#21
03-12-2008, 01:47 PM
#23
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 270
little trouble checking the injectors for cyl 1,3,5.. i found the right place to check, and i think i have the pin to letter correct.. but i might have it twisted clockwise or vice versa
but the fronts, 2,4,6
2 = 18.8 (uh oh)
4 = 11.5
6 = 11.5
i got some readings of 11.5'ish on the others, but some were just all over, like 100's
but the fronts, 2,4,6
2 = 18.8 (uh oh)
4 = 11.5
6 = 11.5
i got some readings of 11.5'ish on the others, but some were just all over, like 100's
03-12-2008, 01:55 PM
#24
little trouble checking the injectors for cyl 1,3,5.. i found the right place to check, and i think i have the pin to letter correct.. but i might have it twisted clockwise or vice versa
but the fronts, 2,4,6
2 = 18.8 (uh oh)
4 = 11.5
6 = 11.5
i got some readings of 11.5'ish on the others, but some were just all over, like 100's
but the fronts, 2,4,6
2 = 18.8 (uh oh)
4 = 11.5
6 = 11.5
i got some readings of 11.5'ish on the others, but some were just all over, like 100's
typical bad injectors, time for some new ones
03-12-2008, 03:16 PM
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 270
grounded the VTC, only started it up briefly, but theres really no more knocking.
BUT, as the directions state, to check the plug AFTER youve grounded, i checked both sides (red and yellow) and i got readings for both.. very low.. on ohm scale, like .02 or something. I DID check my "new ground extension wire" end after splicing it into the yellow wire (ungrounded of course at this point) and got a reading.. so it MADE connection, and it def is grounded now..
why very low readings and the same on both sides inside the solenoid plug? maybe i checked wrong lol.. i tried shoving both the posi and negi into the lil pin
BUT, as the directions state, to check the plug AFTER youve grounded, i checked both sides (red and yellow) and i got readings for both.. very low.. on ohm scale, like .02 or something. I DID check my "new ground extension wire" end after splicing it into the yellow wire (ungrounded of course at this point) and got a reading.. so it MADE connection, and it def is grounded now..
why very low readings and the same on both sides inside the solenoid plug? maybe i checked wrong lol.. i tried shoving both the posi and negi into the lil pin
bbs
03-12-2008, 03:52 PM
#30
That will be a code 55= No trouble codes..
This doesn't mean anything though, the 3rd gen ecu doesn't throw codes like it should, you still may have a malfunctioning sensor, it's a crap shoot..Replace the cheapest thing first=coolant temp sensor.
Please try grounding your vtc solenoids..This may solve your low end lag issue..
This doesn't mean anything though, the 3rd gen ecu doesn't throw codes like it should, you still may have a malfunctioning sensor, it's a crap shoot..Replace the cheapest thing first=coolant temp sensor.
Please try grounding your vtc solenoids..This may solve your low end lag issue..
03-12-2008, 03:56 PM
#31
03-12-2008, 03:59 PM
#32
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 270
well when i lift the hood im not hearing that knock so much.. so i think it grounded out and worked?
i just dont feel a different in the low end, most likely because that KNOCK was a new thing.. so my low end being sluggish has been a recent thing.
hard to say how its running now, considering i still need injectors..
i can see myself dumping like a grand into this.
i think im just gonna say screw it and drive it as is, cause it runs ok.
ever since the minor accident i kinda lost interest in moddin this car anyways, id love to find a pristine condition 92 se 5sp..lol, but theyre not all that common.. esp a mint one haha
i just dont feel a different in the low end, most likely because that KNOCK was a new thing.. so my low end being sluggish has been a recent thing.
hard to say how its running now, considering i still need injectors..
i can see myself dumping like a grand into this.
i think im just gonna say screw it and drive it as is, cause it runs ok.
ever since the minor accident i kinda lost interest in moddin this car anyways, id love to find a pristine condition 92 se 5sp..lol, but theyre not all that common.. esp a mint one haha
03-12-2008, 04:19 PM
#33
03-13-2008, 08:39 AM
#35
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 488
you can use a screw driver to listen to injectors or anything else really, just like a doctor listens for your hearth beat.
put handle end on your ear, hold, and put tip against what you wanna listen in on. put it on top of your injectors while running....not sure if you can on VG but you can on the frojnt 3 in VE. they will be constantly clicking...
put handle end on your ear, hold, and put tip against what you wanna listen in on. put it on top of your injectors while running....not sure if you can on VG but you can on the frojnt 3 in VE. they will be constantly clicking...
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