maximaman1313

was thinking about summer. my a/c doesn't blow as cold as it should,and I had alot of repairs done on it 2 years ago. it blew nice cold then, last year it wasn't like it was when i had the work done. I would rather work with R134.

I see these R134 kits and am wondering if it works for the maxima and what other parts i should change? I'm definately getting a new condenser. maybe thats my problem anyways, seems bent up a bit

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

are you gonna do all the work your self? I dunno much about a/c repair stuff, but i know its gotta be evacuated, and vacuumed (maybe?) before any work could be done. then you have to replace all the components from the "kit."
anyway, im subscribing.

Wiking

Insulating all piping makes a big difference -50% measured boost- for me. Check http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/7

Then my max system was after factory add on installation and may lack some original features: the vehicle was destined to some poor swede (no A/C) and buyer wanted A/C - so it was installed at dealership lacking understanding (as always).

shoult

iTrader: (1)

The first thing you need to know is that R-134a does not cool as well as R12. Switching from R-12 to R-134a will cause your AC system to work harder to acheive the same cooling. On very hot, humid days you may not be able to acheive the desired cooling level.

With that said, I converted my old 89 MR2 SC and it work fairly well. But as I said, on extremely hot days it just couldn't keep up (I live in NashVegas, TN).

You DO need to take your car to have whatever R-12 is left in your car vacuumed out. While it's there you might want to have them run a vaccum hold test. Basically they vacuum the R012 out and just leave everything hooked up and see if the vacuum holds.

Once you have it vacuumed out you can add the R-134a in. Get a kit that includes a gauge, you don't want to overfill your system. Find out how many oz of R-12 the cars system should hold.

Some people say you have to at least change the o-rings. I won't argue, but my original o-rings lasted over 2 years before I yanked the AC system out of the car. The AC was still working well when I yanked it.

Many professionals will tell you that you need to change most ALL of the components out. I think they're just covering their tails.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I agree, but the o-rings should be changed out, anyway. some sort of incompatibility or such(i have heard). the car is ...how old? at least 14 years. they may (possibly) be starting to show their age.
there are aparently a few problems with your system(since you want to convert), and the gaskets are a (relatively) easy place to start. they have dye kits for 134, which could help you locate any leaks, but iirc, they require you to fill your cooling system to proper pressure(could be wrong here). waste of money to fill then empty then fill again. I am sure any shop willing to evac your system would be willing to test your system for leaks(for an additional fee, probably) they are professionals, and they want your business.(you know, more work, more money...) just a thought.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

to do the conversion correctly you should change the following:

rubber hoses to and from compressor
receiver dryer
o-rings seals between fittings
PROPERLY cleaned out the oil in the compressor or even changing the compressor
clean out condensor or even replace condensor for max R134a performance

the oil that's used in R134a system is not compatiable with the R12 oil...so it'll start making a mess in the system. the R134a oils also will eat the R12 rubber bits. also R134a is smaller in size compared to R12...so you might not have a leak with R12 but will leak with R134a.

have a shop pull the R12 out and see if you can get some $ for it. then change the parts listed above and then flush the system to get all the old oil out.
pull a vac and recharge.