Nyxo-z

iTrader: (1)

First I would like to thank everyone in this forum for the great job that is done here! This forum is like a gold mine for me, it's really helpful.

I currently have some bucking/stalling problems with my max. I had Bosch plugs and lately I changed for NGK plugs. You can clearly see that Bosch plugs are really cheap, just by looking at the platinium probe. Anyway, it helped a lot but did not resolve my problem. I'm almost sure that a have a coil pack failure somewhere but I don't see any cracks so I want to find one front and one rear coil pack to switch and see which one fails. My first question is where can I get coil packs for a good price?

I also have to change my knock sensor... And by the way I will change my PCV valve. Should I get those part at the dealership?

-Knock sensor PN 22060-30P00
-Knock sensor sub harness PN 24078-30P00
-Throttle body gasket PN 16175-53J00
-Intake plenum gasket PN 14032-97E00
-2 Intake manifold gaskets PN 14035-97E00

I have a lot of parts to buy, I'd really appreciate your suggestions!

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

if you got the money get it from the dealer for sure. but if not just get the K/S and sub harness from Nissan and the gaskets from a local parts store. i think brian (internetautomar) might have the coils for a good price or just get everything from him. he has good prices so try with him. good luck.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

To find your bad coil, just unplug it while the engine is running and see if the running condition worsens. This actually finds the bad cylinder though. If you isolate the problem with this method, swap coils between two cylinders and repeat the test. If the problem followed to the new cylinder then its the coil, if not then its the fuel injector. If both cylinders are bad now, then both the coil and injector are bad.

GAMERA30

iTrader: (4)

might wanna make sure the MAF or the IACV are working alright also

Nyxo-z

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your answers!

Brian seems to have very good prices. I might buy a lot of parts from him but first I will try to identify all problems! I don't use my car daily so I can wait for the shipping...

I already tried to unplug my coils but I didn't notice a big difference from one to another. I will do it again and listen more carefully...

The MAF is new but I have to check the IACV and O2 sensors.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Last time I bought coils from Brian, they did not have the rubber parts that fit over the spring at the bottom. Transferring those rubber parts from the old coils is not an option because they will tear.

I dont know if he includes them now, but if not then keep in mind you'll need to get them in addition to the coils.

Its good to get injectors from him though because he includes the 3 extra parts that each injector needs.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

No aftermarket coilpack I've even seen comes with the bottom rubber connector.

Yes they can be removed/swapped over as long as the rubber part is not degraded too bad.

A little pb blaster will help "grease" the wheels so to speak when you attempt to remove the rubber boot.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

IIRC even the OE coils come bootless.
I did find a part # the other day for the boots aftermarket, now I'm trying to find someone who has them.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

When it comes to "testing" coil packs, I ran into a problem where the car would run and even drive OK under normal conditions. The coil packs all looked fine. The problem was it would fail under load and cause the stalling/bucking. In other words, the car would drive fine until I mashed on the accelerator. MrGone and I tried all kinds of other things, but the only thing that helped was replacing the coil pack. I even figured out it was the rear passenger side one.

Wiking

Coilpack is an electron dummy pump, its not conscious but to ambient temp, voltage, plug properties. Cant see any possibility for em to distinguish sudden angle change of your ankle...

There is a list of physical changes when you load the engine - they wont directly effect the coilpacks. Poor spark will manifest itself - the more power is demanded, the more a weak spark becomes perceivable.

Yes the operator feels more accurately all failings - under load.

maximagician

that pb blaster works well i have a can ive been using for many years
but is it bad for rubber? im always careful to keep it off rubber if i can

Nyxo-z

iTrader: (1)

Wierd,

I took my coil packs out, look carefully at them. No one was cracked but one at the rear had very little holes with rust and a front one seemed more rusty (I plan to change this one). I scratched them a little bit to remove the surface rust, put them back in and decided to go to the store tu buy the permatex RTV gasket maker just to try it.

You know what? The gasket maker was not installed and the bucking/stalling problem seems to have disappeared! I could still feel some lack of power under 3000rpm because of the knock sensor but the engine was running a lot better. Maybe I swapped a front coil with another one but I'm not sure.

Anyway, I decided to put some gasket maker on my coils and I hope the problem will never come back. I have to take a longer ride to confirm that this bucking/stalling issue is fixed.