I just noticed my outer CV boot is cracked and slinging grease.... It must have just happened since I changed the oil last week cause I inspected them at that time. Would you guys think it would be OK just to replace the boot or do I need to do the whole axle?

90 Max GXE
100K
Auto Tranny

Oh yeah I have only driven the car 1 time since the oil change...FYI

thanks

 

A boots pretty inexpensive and a lot easier then doing the entire axle. If you're not hearing any clicking from the joints yet then you can at least forestall problems by replacing the boot. Just make sure to clean the joint out and then repack it before putting on the new boot.

 

No its not clicking.....and like i said it must have just happened cause it wasn't like that just last week.

Is there a writeup on on CV boot replacement?

 

I believe most cv boot replacement kits come with instructions.

 

just in case they dont have good instructions, i offer Wiking's directions
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/25

 

It is no easier than doing an entire axle, you have to remove the entire axle to change the boot, unless you're using a quick boot which goes right over it, but these supposedly are crap and don't work well at all. If you're not clicking, I'd say just do the boot, especially since you caught it quickly before a lot of dirt and stuff gets in there. If it's clicking at all, though, do the whole axle.

I believe they have good instructions on how to do it on autozone's website.

 

Do the boot before it starts clicking...otherwise you need to replace the whole axle.

 

Neoprene pullover is superior to original nissan, in all respects. If its not time to swap tranny/axle seals, then pullover is the easy way to go. Greasy hands warning...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/25

 

So the UNI-fit boot on your cardomain site stretches over the end of the axle? It must be really flexible rubber, I've never seen anything like that, just the split boots. Still though, If you're going to remove everything to stretch a boot over, it doesn't take much more to gently yank on the axle to pull it out and put a normal boot on. Does this really save time? The first person to invent a durable split boot is going to be a millionaire b/c it is a hassle to pull out a whole axle just to replace a boot.

 

When there is no need to swap axle or axle/diff box seals - then this method is superior: "...it is a hassle to pull out a whole axle just to replace a boot."

- disengaging the pass side axle support/bearing is PITA
- no need to play with tranny oil
- Neoprene as material is superior to amazon rubber
- millionaire would not be as happy as bypassing the hasslepain... Even when axle is out I'll use next time also neoprene boots.

The 'only' hard part is to flex the boot, pull over, when axle is still attached (of course one may loan or buy the expensive tools, I had no access). The shop offered lease-cone is no answer... I found a way around it: pretensioning the boot on a 100mm diameter plastic tube - then 'just drop it on'.

Another complaint issue is the cheap tie-wrap supplied with the box: buy instead real steel tie-wraps...

Third complaint is that I get no revenue 'selling' their products ...but then gain from knowing that lots greasy hand ppl are happy.

 

Ah yes, I was only thinking about the drivers side. It would be nice to not have to deal with tranny oil too I guess if your seals are gone.

 

In this mafialand, this pull over boot seems to be a 'state secret'. I had heard about this earlier, but 'nobody knew nothing' ... all shops stuck common denial in its existence. Only through US Unifit sales dpt I got superb service and tracked down local scandinavian sales office ... who then contacted local spare shop. Miracle happened in the socialist-shop: "...yes, here is a stack of em, total surprise to us..."

This pull over boot cuts work time 75%. Local repair shops still charged the time as from a std boot swap, but use this pullover. Nice added revenue in a job where work constitutes 95% of the customer bill.

 

So it's gotta be super flexible if it fits snugly on the axle b/c the axle diameter is only what, an inch or so, and the widest part it would have to go over is probably 4 inches or so. How long have you had it on and how well has it held up?

 

Birth experience?

2 yrs, 10k miles. Short experience as such.

 

there are universal stretchable boots that can be installed on the car without disassembling the axle.
they actually work surprisingly well, as long as you have the tool to install them.

 

could someone throw out a product number or something on these and where to get them so we can know for the future (I'm referring to the universal stretchy boots)?

 

http://search.ebay.com/search/search...fsop=32&fsoo=2
(couldn't just find a source on a quick google, so i went to the next-best thing)

 

http://www.dormanproducts.com/ ... sits on my linky page26 ... and the writeup begins with UNI-FIT UF2101 'stretch-over-joint' neoprene boot ... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/25.

EDIT: seems that they have changed product codes, this doesnt match... see
https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...LL&vTime=12763

Maybe they have already a cheap solution? Ask the sales - they seem super active as they even answer Euros... Pre-tensioning improvisation with a 4"-5" plastic tube works well. (Using only cone - PITA)

 

Well I will be doing tons of front end and suspension work when doing these.

Eibach Springs
Control Arms
Inner/Outer Tie Rods
Ball Joints
Sway Bar Links
ES poly bushings

So needless to say it will be a weekend job and a messy one!

 

make sure you have all the proper tools on hand if you want it done in a weekend(especially if you are replacing the bushings on the control arm, rather than just replacing the arm...took me 3-4 hours each, but maybe i did it wrong...)

 

Can u get em stretch-boots from local shop?

Have a max-greazy weekend

 

I am replacing the control arms I have already put in the ES bushings.