Lockup locks direct(no friction).

I though to make a bypass for the gear lockup as I got the max.

But there must be a reason why lockup doesnt work cold (=first 20minutes) ... and uses only 3, 4 gears, drops out immediately when loading... My guess is that lockup is only built to 'stand 50hp', and forcing it ON, cold or otherwise will decimate it.

For the same reasons I will not install tranny cooler - without temp controlling valve automation.The tranny oil has to be warm to work properly, the current stock setting must have been designed to be ideal in most cases (from global viewpoint).

On the other hand, I dont know the design specs for optimal A/T oiltemp. The distributed FSM is so called level3 -manual, only for service shops and that is why it doesnt contain level1 or level2 details, design specs etc.

 

i meant that since the lockup was on all the time, it put MORE of a load on the clutches and bands since there was no 'give' in the torque converter. kinda like shifting a manual car without pushing the clutch puts a ton of wear on the synchros since the synchros serve the same basic function as the bands and clutches.

 

Don't get me wrong - I'm not advocating only changing your ATF once every 130k miles. I was just using that as an illustration of how reliable my VG auto tranny has been. I know I have been lax in maintaining it and feel remorse everyday .

The VG tranny... been berra berra good... to me.

 

Syncro function - is only for manual, work only during shifting.

 

right... and the clutches/bands only change their status when shifting as well right? the difference being i guess that the a/t mechanisms can slip while a synchro can't really 'slip' so much as it can just engage roughly, or lock you out of a gear. unless of course you shift without the clutch and strip all the teeth off...

anyhow i'm thinking that another contributing factor to my a/t's failure was the fact that i left my cooler in place during the winter. it's best to cover it up during colder weather (i'd say once you are below 50f) because the cooler is not thermostatically controlled, therefore, it's similar to having the engine thermostat stuck wide open.

 

Status change is good word, they change and keep that way.

You really cant compare: in manual u can throw synro to sea and still drive. Old cars didnt have sychro: Our -64 Rambler was full advanced/modern when 2&3 gears had synchros, 1s had not.

In A/T one band 'works' all the time when power is delivered 'through' it.

Rallydrivers dont really need/use synchros or clucth. As /If u learn to listen your box, u may do so as well: at right moment full speed with stick and gears will change... no need to waste time in clutchy operations.

 

well by synchros i mean the synchronizer cone as well as the baulk ring and engagement teeth. as opposed to a non-fulltime-meshed manual where all gears (not just reverse) were straight-cut and slid into place.

i still think, it's ponderous how in an a/t you can have different bands/clutches active or inactive in, say 1st gear, depending if it's D(1) or L(1) or 2(1) yet the gear remains the same.

 

the t/c does'nt lock up when the engine is cold because of the open loop mode.

okay...i could've sworn jatco made the ve auto trannies, but people swear up and down they're stronger.

the ve tranny was rebuilt fresh fluid ect...
now after you drive for a while 2nd-3rd slips
sometimes bad.

the vg does'nt do that given the fact she sat in the garage for 2 years after the tranny was rebuilt.

also kevin cg/92gxe has a parts car and he n-drops it ALOT according to him and it shifts better than his daliy driver

and to the member that posted the comfort/power mode kills the tranny.
it could be possible (have you seen my should i be concerned...thread?)

in the fsm the tranny has a solenoid called line pressure solenoid.
if the tcu adjusts the line press. through that solenoid...it's possible.

i keep it in power all the time.

one being someone posted that in power mode you get better mpgs...which i've observed.
plus she seem so confused in comfort.
i have to release and step on the gas two times to get her to down shift

 

Stillman, the parts cars trans doesnt shift better, it shifts faster. Its a harder shift at all RPMs but its fast, and has help up to my abuse and beatings nicely, altho it does only have 100k on it. I dont think power mode would be harmful at all to your trans, in fact i think comfort might be. In comfort mode it shifts sooner, therefore causing the TC to be more "open" (stator tries to reverse fluid flow which gives more play or "slip" into the TC but yields more torque which is now needed since youre in a higher gear at a lower speed) which actually wastes gas and generates alot of heat in the TC which can be harmful to it. I believe the FSM said, or i heard somewhere, that the setting, be it comfort auto or power does not dictate main line pressure, i.e. shifting speed and or harshness, but i would imagine shift overlap is greater whilst in comfort mode which also is detrimental to autos.

Also stillman, i thought it was trans fluid temp that dictated whether or not the TC lockup up, not closed loop mode or not. Cold fluid is just as bad at too hot of fluid in an auto which is why you shouldnt abuse or stain the trans til warm, thats why you have a trans "heater."

 

Lockup waits also for this sweet to warmup (center of pic)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24


Com fort Con fusion may also be bad signal from TPS. (ok. if so - then no difference on the switch position)

 

First 'five miles' its cooling the oil. After engine warmup, it helps in heating ... then it starts it intended (?) work, limiting oil temp overheat.

Typical average trip length a of a vehicle is five miles: Globally this means that tranny coolers expand gas consumption, tranny breakups ... as in everythin else in greenpie technology, it is de$igned to do just that. What would they greenpies [hear ? laughter from mosscow, dubai skyscrapers] be doing w/o our money? Driving camels and...

 

LOL, true that. And yes, until the engine itself starts to warm up, the trans fluid is being cooled, but in my experience it seems to be the engine gets fully warm well before the trans fluid so overall, in the first lets say 10-15 minutes the trans cooler is acting as a heater, bringing it up to a certain temp (im guessing 180-220 ish since the engine runs at 180 and a trans can operate fine in between 175 and 225 F) and then for the most part maintaining that temp?

 

United States has biggest oil reserves in the world. No NO, that asset wont be drilled (theres a danger couple of frogs might die). Psst. worse still, pri$e would fall...

I guess this cooler -equation isnt as simple as it seems: Needs four (?) temperature gauges, readins every 10 sec (?) and then diagrams from these (for first 30 minutes). Then there has to be also a comparison with the startup settings from -20 to +90 add sunshine to these parameters. How would driving conditions /habits effect these reading? If this research is throughly done, its real effort.

I guess that would clarify various needs for different locations and/or vehicle usage.

Summarum: Where could one get decently priced 3-way oil thermostat or 12V valve?

 

Yeah, thats very true, its unthinkable that we drill in alaska due to potential widelife problems....

Yeah, Wiking, with the right research and effort a solution could be found, and also im not sure where you could get those items.

What about some type of insulated canister to keep the atf warm? I believe the current gen prius uses something to this effect to keep engine coolant warm for a decent amount of time(couple hours or so, maybe more) so that after shopping or who knows what you start up your car and have warm or hot coolant warming your engine up faster to get better mpg and lower emissions. Im sure some type of system could be developed like this for atf fluid in all cars, but then again added cost and complexity might negate the effects on the manufacturers side of things.

 

- Research is just determination, pen & paper, four gauges, 40$, collecting data for one year.

- The solution includes the cooler as previously described. But it has to be 'behind' H-coupling, where a simple and cheap oil thermostat either allows circulation to cooler, or returns flow immediately if under 170F. Extra heater could easily be in that loop...

- There's a way to bottle heat to keep coolant 'startup warm' for 20hrs. Who would want such an item for 200$? No body...

 

Yeah thats very true. The solution could be right there, but like you said, cost, no one will justify it as a need unless it has little to no cost nowadays... maybe something for future benz's.

 

DIY via junk prts would reduce the system price maybe under 100$.

Still I dont see it coming as there is the human factor involved. This is tied in time dimension -physics: If we now have cold engine/tranny plus 'bottled heat' to warm tranny & engine, who wants to wait the distribution -phase? I guess 20 minutes is the minimum to have any effect...

Human on the go may go berserk even waiting the diesel glow plug wait - 20 sec

 

so your sayin a tranny that shifts hard is bad??

 

if it shifts at full line pressure all the time it's bad. people unplug the drop resistor and say it's a "quick shift mod" but in actuality it over-stresses the components in the tranny and kills it. it's best to let the tranny operate as programmed. Power mode is easier on the tranny than Comfort, simply b/c the higher rpm shifts, when calculated into the overall a/t-master-shifting-and-stuff-algorithm, end up wearing it out less. It's an indirect benefit... just happens to work out that way.