No. I am asking you. About THE parts when compared.

The boxes have design limits for power delivery. Quest hp (if the tranny was first for it) means smtg in this game.

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Yall ppl, slippery Question:

The tranny oil temperature: Oil has to be warm to work properly. Cold tranny will blow if abused:

1. What is the optimal, -DESIGNED- operation temperature, measured where?
2. Why is the gearlock limited to warmed oil +60C - +160F?
3. Why stock "tranny cooler "works as a heater?

 

o ok, so the Rblahblah4A/V was not specifically for the VE. gotcha.

 

Googling for the optimal tranny oil temp gives few results. But look at how Toyota has responded to its dysmally xploding lexus trannys: thermostat ctrl. Just as I said... stupid cooler is no good, extra dumb cooler is even worse.

Nobody gives optimal temp ranges (why?), but generally 170F seems to be the minimum A/T oil operating temp...

Heres my days surfing result:

FYI, Excerpts From Lexus Forum:

- JAB 09-14-06, 05:37 PM "I am original owner. Tranny failed at about 116K."
- Salimshah 09-14-06, 06:14 PM "Been on this forum for years and there has been a fair number of posts on transmission failure [some say on AWD some say FWD only].
I am glad we are talking about transmission and not a medicine or a medical procedure. There are too many horror stories out on the net, that an unbiased person would not follow through with any treatment."
- TunedRX300 09-14-06, 06:44 PM "First, Lexus will never release failure rate on RX300's transmission. Lexus will commit brand suicide if it does......"

Check out for more, "Transmission failure 1999 Rx300 AWD poll": http://www.clublexus.com/forums/arch.../t-238236.html

New Toyota Tundra --->thermostat tranny oil temp ctrl:
http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/012007_08.pdf


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Temperature control of the gear oil
http://www.btt-thermostate.de/englis...mper_getr.html


The gear oil in automatic transmissions has an optimal working temperature
range, within which a high level of comfort is achieved simultaneously with
a very long service life. Compared with the temperature development of the
coolant, the adaptation while driving is delayed and the gear oil thus only
attains the optimal temperature on longer rides. This delay results in
considerably increased fuel consumption as a result of the related friction
losses. Hot coolant causes an active heating of the gear oil which then
counteracts this delay and ensures that greater comfort and efficient energy
conversion are achieved more quickly. In addition to this, with the use of
a thermostat and the appropriate circuit, it is possible to not only actively
heat up, but also to cool or regulate the temperature of the gear oil.


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Products,

Engine/Transmission Oil Thermostatic Control:
http://www.cpperformance.com/product...thermostat.htm

Xtreme Remote Engine & Transmission Oil Thermostat 180 Degree

Traditionally engine or transmission oil is continuously run through a cooler or heat exchanger to prevent the engine or transmission oil from overheating Obviously this system works well but it does not compensate for the variables involved such as the water temperature your boating in, the size and efficiency of your coolers or how long it takes you to warm up your engine to bring it to proper operating temperature.

By installing a remote oil thermostat the oil will bypass the cooler until it reaches a pre-determined temperature at which point it will internally open and begin flowing the oil thru the cooler to maintain a constant oil operating temperature The Hardin Marine Xtreme oil thermostat can either be remotely mounted with 2 stand-off bushings or it can be connected directly to the oil cooler or remote filter head with a custom Hardin Marine coupler fitting. ....226$

 

I agree with you Walt, a thermostat control for all the fluids would be a good idea. the trans cooler in the radiator is used because both the trans and the engine work best in the same temperature range (approx 200*F). the trans will do a bit better if the temps stay lower, but 200 is still safe. Cold trans fluid is a bad thing as well, it doesn't flow well. I wonder how many people have changed their trans fluid only to have issues crop up because of it?

 

So, the new transmission is going in today, I wanted to go synthetic since some people advertised smoother shifts, but I couldn't justify the extra 50$ buy in price since the max capacity is 10 1/8 qrts, so I'm just going regular, I'm sure it won't hinder it in the long run since we've been using non-synthetic for decades.

 

well, for a brand-new transmission... the power is yours. you can change the fluid every 10k and put on some sort of thermostatic cooler set at 180 or whatever, and the sucker will last a long time. even if it lasts just 150k miles... do you honestly forsee yourself getting that many more miles out of the car? It's nice to think we could, but odds are against ANY of us getting even 50k more out of our cars. Just due to family/life circumstances, gas prices, possibility of catastrophic failure or crashes, etc. There's so many reasons that could cause us to not drive a certain car anymore, so I'd say that as long asyou take care of that new transmission, it'll effectively last you forever. Not literally, but effectively.

 

the factory fill was/is a low ash version of Dexron III. the regular Dexron III has a higher than recommended level of ash in it. Synthetic should be a no ash formula.
you should be able to pick up synthetic for about double the price of regular trans fluid. so $5 vs $2.5 a quart.

 

6.99 vrs 2.19 a qt... poor college student

 

poor college student wants to shorten trans life.
Penny wise Pound Foolish

 

by shorten you mean 20k miles... max, plus, 100k miles, least 10+yrs for me. at least.

 

When one has to choose, any extra 50$ into a DD is 'wasted'. (There is also a 'collision waitin' -factor) ... But oh brand new tranny (?) ... maybe I would try to call my American Aunt.

 

My VG tranny has barely been serviced, and it works fine. Still the original going strong at 307,254KM....but I will keep what you said in mind in case it goes BOOM soon.

I just changed the fluid so only time will tell. (PS. Never Had Synthetic Refill)

 

mine died at about this kilometerage (translates to mid 160k miles) so still be on the lookout

 

I wish I only paid $2.50/quart. I use Amsoil synthetic @ $10/quart.

 

What options do I have once it blows? Do I have to completely REPLACE the tranny, or can it be re-built for cheaper?

I like this model of Maxima more than the next generation, although the latest generation looks good and big like the 3rd Gen, but too expensive.

 

if you look on ebay, you will see a few autos for about $600. rebuild, about $800.
these are US prices, AND guess-timates, but you get the idea.

 

well the thing is that a jy a/t for a VG is not likely to work very well.... best thing you can do is to either find one that's under 120k miles or look for an already-remanufactured one somewhere. It's a tough call what to do with a dead VG auto. The decision was easy for me. Although my tranny gave NO indication of failure, i had just bought a 5spd parts car... 6 days before my a/t unexpectedly died. I was gonna do the swap anyways... the a/t failing just made me do it sooner. Which meant i was financially unprepared. Which means that I just got inside from prepping the car for clutch replacement tomorrow. And a few other things.

 

you bought the overpriced amsoil crapola.
it's just the low ash content that is needed for extended life.