1992maximase30

well i'm going to.
670-690ohms can more than likely make the tcu do loopy things.

and it thinks the sensor is fine becuase there's no break in the circuit.

Wiking

Yes, theres always the treshold 'area' where a signal will be misinterpreted. Wobbling on that edge can produce mystical responses. Cant know for sure w/o testing with another. Lucky this sensor is easy swap...

1992maximase30

okay i put the rev sensor on.
not really a difference till i changed the fluid.
i only put in about 2.5 quarts.
so tomarrow i'm gonna get about 3 quarts of some more valvoline max life tranny fluid.

also wiking i got a 4.7k ohm resistor radio shack said they don't have 5k ohm.
will this be fine...

Wiking

I guess that this need for tuning raises from usage/nonusage/age -related changes in the box. My guess is its the rubber seal(s) in some outgoing phases Thus remedy in my box surely wont exactly match next one... Still, the 4.7 is near enough: if u wish, try also testing with 1k 2k an 10k resistors or any combination to achieve desired result. The small resistors are cheap.

However, if resistor is to be always used (my usage is short = only WOT), it should be big and sturdy like the original. (Dont know Wattage)

1992maximase30

oh...yea see my problem is'nt like yours
you said your shift 1st-2nd @ wot is too soft.
mines is'nt
it's just between 3.5k-4.5k rpms.

but yesterday i drained most of it, only two quarts left.
but i was driving below 3500rpms the shifts were firm.

and every once and a while the shifts between 3600-4500rpms either delayed then shift or shifted fine.

so it's a step up now i'm going to drain the remainin two quarts out then my tranny should be fine.

now wiking the restor i got was from radioshck the little ones....should be fine seeing i used the same radio shack resistor when i had the ve for the knock sensor.

Wiking

My problem was too soft 1--->2.

It annoys only at full acceleration. So I corrected only it at WOT with depicted setting...

The smallest 1/4W resistors may not last long, 5c lost. If so, buy 2W or smtg like that... May cost 2$ ?

1992maximase30

okay.
well i did the final flush so she now has 7-8 quarts of fresh tranny fluid.
and the most important thing of all is: no soft or delayed shift.
i put her to the test, well sorta.
i had the a/c (more heat) her shifts are quick in the mid range. low range still the same.
and they're smooth imo, not hard or soft. but just righht for me.

and for s & g im still gonna do the resisitor.

a little firmness ain't gonna hurt her.
it will help her even more

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i wouldn't be so confident.... i toyed around with my VG auto it cost me dearly.

maximomo

iTrader: (2)

I would skip the resistor mod and just add a can of SeaFoam Transtune.
The stuff is great and it will clean the varnish off of your valve body and other areas and increase your pressure evenly throughout the tranny.

1992maximase30

that i know.
that stuff made my tranny in my acura legend last for another 6 months.
and since the tranny has fresh fluid in i think i'll wait about 6-9,000miles for her next change.

cape how did you toyin with yours cost you? what did you do?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

playing around with manual shifting, torque converter lockup, and running the solenoid controls through switches

1992maximase30

lol!
i'm sorry for lauging, but that kinda sounds like something i would do also.
but i would'nt mess with the shiftin with switches or tcc lock up.
kinda intrestin/amazin how you would run switches for the shift solenoids.

the only thing i MIGHT do is the resistor mod...thats it.
and iirc a tranny that shifts a lil too soft could be a slight chance of it slippin...which heats the fluid, also burning the clutches out early?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well forget all that stuff.... lemme ask you this: do you have enough space to tear a tranny apart? if you do, maybe you should grab a VG AT from the junkyard, tear it apart, and (with the help of the FSM) see if you can't sort of teach yourself how to replace those parts.... then when the time rolls around, get a rebuild kit and do it yourself for real

Wiking

Slippin tranny is dead faster than tappin' slinny: no need of mods when tranny is behaving ok. And we cant really feel u pain... Warnings are always plentiful, if u believe all of em, u die... but do pick the relevant to survive.

This kind of adjusting is already done in the factory, tuning for a market segment.

1992maximase30

well....it depends where she fails.
but in a way yes i have the space.
what i would'nt have is probably money to put to the side while i take a few days off from work...or have a car on the side(which i might be workin on).

with tools and time i could do it myself.

besides that i have some weird news:::::
for some reson with the a/c on the shifts are fine, BUT no power loss.
it's still the same.

with the a/c off there's sometimes a delay BUT this time only between 3500-4000rpms.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you could just pick up a dead JY tranny and rebuild it in your spare time and then put it in once you're finished, that way there's no downtime on your car as long as your current tranny holds up until then. mine didn't rly do that.... that's why i had to swap 2 months earlier than planned.

Wiking

At some TB angle, A/C pwr is disconnected by ECU. Measure and/or connect a led to indicate the compressor pwr on -status so u know if compressor is actually used...

1992maximase30

iirc by the fsm the ecu "see's" how quickly i step on the gas and if @ wot it cuts the compressor off for several seconds.

i think i have another problem:
between 55-60mph when you let go of the gas pedal then press on it the torque converter engages then disengages about 3-5 times in a row then stay on.
but lower than 55mph or above 60mph it's fine....

what the hell!!

maximomo

iTrader: (2)

Both of these issues sound more electrical than mechanical/fluid (TC lock-up and shifting).

I presume that you guys have checked and cleaned ALL of the connections to your AT sensors and control unit, right? Also, there are two ground connections on the frame somewhere behind the tranny mount that rust over and should be removed and cleaned up.

1992maximase30

i thought so too. but once i changed the fluid i thought it was better till i stopped using the a/c.

i seen one small wire on the tranny housing i guess i can look for the other one.

btw, thanks for the help even though i somewhat hi-jacked the thread...