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car wont turn over at all, was fine this morning...

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Old 05-05-2008 | 11:47 AM
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car wont turn over at all, was fine this morning...

ok so I have a few recent posts about my car. When I start it it seems like it has no juice but then starts...so I drove to work this morning and it did that, but then ran fine. I go to leave work today, and its like I had no battery at all. it tried to turn over for 3-4secs just sounded like it was real weak. then nothing. I know I have power cause all electrial works, stereo works and i can crank it up with my amp,subs no problem.

I go to crank it now, and it does nothing...

Is my starter dead? what could of possibly happened while it just sat there for 8 hours to cause it to not even try to turn over?

please help, my car is at my work still and I need to get it going asap. thanks
Old 05-05-2008 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
...I need to get it going asap. thanks
Maybe your altenator is finished....

Lights do come on? Batt voltage is there or is it?

If it is, try bypassing all with a jumper wire directly from + to starter solenoid. Near plus pole is also a starter loop waiting for it, check http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5
Old 05-05-2008 | 01:07 PM
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lights come on, everything works...but the car wont try to turn over at all...
Old 05-05-2008 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
lights come on, everything works...but the car wont try to turn over at all...
Security system? Mine sometimes kills the starter without beeping the horn. Everything works fine EXCEPT trying to crank the starter. Thank God for manual trans!
Old 05-05-2008 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
lights come on, everything works...but the car wont try to turn over at all...
and you've already verified the snugness of all the electrical connectors n stuff on/near the starter?
Old 05-05-2008 | 01:59 PM
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Do you hear a click?
Old 05-05-2008 | 03:02 PM
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yes, all wires are very tight. I have a remote start, so I popped hood and tried starting it..nothing...it tries 3 times before it stop tryin to remote start... I hit it with the wrench over and over while it was in starting process...and it started to spin, very weakly. Also when I would try this a few more times hoping it would kick over enough to start, sometimes it would just click.

I took starter out...what a ***** for being in my work parking lot with just small wrench and few sockets, bolts were on tight. Went and got a starter from parts store. $193 after tax and core returned since i had it with me. Good news! fired right up . Starts alot better now.

Now to just figure out if I have a bad coil pack...post I have below this one from yesterday about that

Thanks guys
Old 05-05-2008 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
yes, all wires are very tight. I have a remote start, so I popped hood and tried starting it..nothing...it tries 3 times before it stop tryin to remote start... I hit it with the wrench over and over while it was in starting process...and it started to spin, very weakly. Also when I would try this a few more times hoping it would kick over enough to start, sometimes it would just click.

I took starter out...what a ***** for being in my work parking lot with just small wrench and few sockets, bolts were on tight. Went and got a starter from parts store. $193 after tax and core returned since i had it with me. Good news! fired right up . Starts alot better now.

Now to just figure out if I have a bad coil pack...post I have below this one from yesterday about that

Thanks guys
shame you couldn't have waited. i have a wonderfully functional starter for sale. but good job getting it running!
Old 05-05-2008 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
yes, all wires are very tight. I have a remote start, so I popped hood and tried starting it..nothing...it tries 3 times before it stop tryin to remote start... I hit it with the wrench over and over while it was in starting process...and it started to spin, very weakly. Also when I would try this a few more times hoping it would kick over enough to start, sometimes it would just click.

I took starter out...what a ***** for being in my work parking lot with just small wrench and few sockets, bolts were on tight. Went and got a starter from parts store. $193 after tax and core returned since i had it with me. Good news! fired right up . Starts alot better now.

Now to just figure out if I have a bad coil pack...post I have below this one from yesterday about that

Thanks guys
Sounds like it could have been brushes in the starter, the usual symptoms are the starter 'clicks', but does not turn (also interior lights Don't go dim like normally occurs), often a hit with a wrench while someone holds the key on start, will get it to work.

If you have some auto electrical knowledge, the brushes are a fairly easy replacement for about $5. Otherwise a replacement starter will fix it.
Old 05-05-2008 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
shame you couldn't have waited. i have a wonderfully functional starter for sale. but good job getting it running!
if it wasn't my daily driver and stuck at my work i could of.....damn spur of the moment problem...I wish I could of seen it coming, i probably would of replaced it before it got me stuck at work
Old 05-05-2008 | 08:47 PM
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By freak incident, my car decided to not start anymore in front of my house. Thank god. Now I don't know how the heck I can get the front on jackstands. Have you ever used the center beam under the engine that looks about 5" thick as a raising point to then transfer the load onto jackstands?

It looks slightly rusted, I'm afraid it will cave in.
Old 05-05-2008 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
By freak incident, my car decided to not start anymore in front of my house. Thank god. Now I don't know how the heck I can get the front on jackstands. Have you ever used the center beam under the engine that looks about 5" thick as a raising point to then transfer the load onto jackstands?

It looks slightly rusted, I'm afraid it will cave in.
the center beam is what holds the engine to the car...... you can support it where it meets the frame. Is there a problem getting it up from the sides (like you're parked too close to a curb or something)? Anyhow on the center member there's a little bulby thing at the front which is a owner-manual suggested jacking point. But it's always safer to put one under each front corner rather than just one up at the front. Besides you'll need a taller jack to get it angled up from way up there, than if you jacked it up farther back.
Old 05-05-2008 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
By freak incident, my car decided to not start anymore in front of my house. Thank god. Now I don't know how the heck I can get the front on jackstands. Have you ever used the center beam under the engine that looks about 5" thick as a raising point to then transfer the load onto jackstands?

It looks slightly rusted, I'm afraid it will cave in.
what you doing that you need to put on jacks? alternator?
Old 05-05-2008 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
what you doing that you need to put on jacks? alternator?
Need to replace the starter. The 'battery assist guy' from CAA says I need to access it from below.

By the way, it started. He started hitting on what he called the shaft of the starter, with the end of one of those floor jack handles, from underneath at the side, and he started hitting it and it wouldn't start...then he hooked up something to my battery then started banging it from the side again and I kept turning the key maybe 20-30 times then it started.

He left then I drove it around for 30 minutes, then parked it back in front of the house, let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it won't start again.
Old 05-05-2008 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
the center beam is what holds the engine to the car...... you can support it where it meets the frame. Is there a problem getting it up from the sides (like you're parked too close to a curb or something)? Anyhow on the center member there's a little bulby thing at the front which is a owner-manual suggested jacking point. But it's always safer to put one under each front corner rather than just one up at the front. Besides you'll need a taller jack to get it angled up from way up there, than if you jacked it up farther back.
In the 93 owners manual it shows jack points for the spare tire replacement...it's on the sides and under the doors. I tried to jack it up recently from their suggested spots, and the body fell right through and the jack created this crushed dent from underneath, almost a hole now.....so I don't know where to put the jackstands because of the rust.

The CAA guy says to remove the drivers side wheel to replace the starter....I thought wheel ramps would be enough to do this.
Old 05-06-2008 | 06:14 AM
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open your hood and look around a bit before you listen to someone's advice.
Old 05-06-2008 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
In the 93 owners manual it shows jack points for the spare tire replacement...it's on the sides and under the doors. I tried to jack it up recently from their suggested spots, and the body fell right through and the jack created this crushed dent from underneath, almost a hole now.....so I don't know where to put the jackstands because of the rust.

The CAA guy says to remove the drivers side wheel to replace the starter....I thought wheel ramps would be enough to do this.
those points are for just what you said, using the jack in your trunk.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

you do not need to take off the drivers wheel to replace the starter, as a matter of fact i don't remember jacking my car up at all.
Old 05-06-2008 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
In the 93 owners manual it shows jack points for the spare tire replacement...it's on the sides and under the doors. I tried to jack it up recently from their suggested spots, and the body fell right through and the jack created this crushed dent from underneath, almost a hole now.....so I don't know where to put the jackstands because of the rust.

The CAA guy says to remove the drivers side wheel to replace the starter....I thought wheel ramps would be enough to do this.

umm not sure about the VG but I know on my auto VE the starter was very easily accessible through the top, right underneath the throttle body.
Old 05-06-2008 | 07:56 AM
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are the VG starter and VE starter the same? Im looking at the paper work and it looks like the starter I got and put in, is for the vg, according to paper work, but i compared my old bad one to the new one and they look exactly the same....
Old 05-06-2008 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nc90gxe
those points are for just what you said, using the jack in your trunk.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

you do not need to take off the drivers wheel to replace the starter, as a matter of fact i don't remember jacking my car up at all.
Thanks bud - this really helps.
Old 05-07-2008 | 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
are the VG starter and VE starter the same? Im looking at the paper work and it looks like the starter I got and put in, is for the vg, according to paper work, but i compared my old bad one to the new one and they look exactly the same....
All VG auto or manual/ and all VE manual starters are the same..The only different starter on the 3rd gens is the VE auto starter.
Old 05-07-2008 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
All VG auto or manual/ and all VE manual starters are the same..The only different starter on the 3rd gens is the VE auto starter.
hmm so how i can check if i got the right starter? It looked exactly the same, bolted in the same no problems at all...and it seems to work perfectly.

I remember distinctly telling the guy its the VE motor DOHC, auto...because usually parts stores only know about the VG for some reason and think im an idiot when I say its a DOHC motor. Turns out this guy is a fan of the 3rd gen and was like nice, you got the faster motor blah blah blah. So I was kinda suprised and assumed he knew what I was talking about.

maybe their paperwork is just screwed up?
Old 05-08-2008 | 11:42 PM
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Maximaman - i'm getting something very strange. I've got the new starter in, and when the starter goes the car starts immediately. BUT, sometimes when I start it I get NOTHING when I turn the key. I do it again, and I get NOTHING. I do it a third time and it starts healthy. Other times today, I would go to start it and all I got is the click sound. Then try again and then healthy start.

Any ideas? I put grease on the battery post, connectors, and connector on the starter before I tightened everything down, to minimize rust, and I'm going to try and remove all the grease to see if that makes a difference.
Old 05-09-2008 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
... I'm going to try and remove all the grease to see if that makes a difference.
Worn ign key switch. Inhibit Relay. Inhibitor sw. Battery internals shot. 'New' [reman] Starter. What else?
Old 05-09-2008 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
Maximaman - i'm getting something very strange. I've got the new starter in, and when the starter goes the car starts immediately. BUT, sometimes when I start it I get NOTHING when I turn the key. I do it again, and I get NOTHING. I do it a third time and it starts healthy. Other times today, I would go to start it and all I got is the click sound. Then try again and then healthy start.

Any ideas? I put grease on the battery post, connectors, and connector on the starter before I tightened everything down, to minimize rust, and I'm going to try and remove all the grease to see if that makes a difference.
what kind of grease you put on the connections? I believe there is a special dielectrical grease for electrical contacts.

also check things wiking listed... inhibit relay ( or possible worn bushing in the shift selector) that would cause the tranny/computer to think its in a diff gear than park, or ignition key switch
Old 05-09-2008 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
what kind of grease you put on the connections? I believe there is a special dielectrical grease for electrical contacts.

also check things wiking listed... inhibit relay ( or possible worn bushing in the shift selector) that would cause the tranny/computer to think its in a diff gear than park, or ignition key switch
Blah, any thick grease will work, i use a dab of wheel bearing grease on my battery cables connections= 0 problems..

1993-VG30E-GXE: the next time it does the "no start" thing, try pushing your auto shifter up a little, you may have a bad shifter bushing causing the no start issue..
Old 05-09-2008 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
what kind of grease you put on the connections? I believe there is a special dielectrical grease for electrical contacts.

also check things wiking listed... inhibit relay ( or possible worn bushing in the shift selector) that would cause the tranny/computer to think its in a diff gear than park, or ignition key switch
OK - I got under the car and cleaned off ALL the grease, off the battery connectors and terminals also, even in those small connectors between battery to Starter, there was white grease that may have been from the original factory build in the small connectors (it was original..the starter was never replaced). It's not the bushing in the shift selector, I tried that many times.

After I cleaned all the grease off of everything the first try it did the click again. 2nd try it started instantly like a gun. The last 4 times on short trips around the city it started fine on the first go.

The grease I put on is NLGI No. 2 - the one specified in the manual...Lithium EP Lubricant...it's black in color.
Old 05-09-2008 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Worn ign key switch. Inhibit Relay. Inhibitor sw. Battery internals shot. 'New' [reman] Starter. What else?
Is it possible to test for a faulty Solenoid in the 'new' starter?

Also, how can I test the Inhibit Relay and Inhibit Switch? There also is the possibility that the +ve cable is deteriorated and needs replacement. Can I actually test the cable with a digital multi-meter?
Old 05-09-2008 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
Is it possible to test for a faulty Solenoid in the 'new' starter?

Also, how can I test the Inhibit Relay and Inhibit Switch? There also is the possibility that the +ve cable is deteriorated and needs replacement. Can I actually test the cable with a digital multi-meter?
Solenoid:
- Test the solenoid winding for resistance
- Starter on the floor, jump cables from batt, neg to case, pos to pos. Then jump to start pin... and wham, starter starts to run down the street... Leave supply out, and only solenoid clicks.
- Solenoid can be opened and/or changed, need soldering.

Relays are color coded. Find same color and swap.

Bypass whole system - there exist already the starter bypass wire, read linky.

Bad looking wires are replaced, u dont measure s ht.
Old 05-16-2008 | 01:54 AM
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HI MY 92 MAX SE IS HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS BUT IT HAPPEND WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY MY CAR JUST DIED OUT ON MY ALL MY ELECTRICAL STUFF WORKS IT JUST WONT START BACK UP? WHAT COULD CAUSE IT TO JUST DIE OUT LIKE THAT
Old 05-16-2008 | 02:02 AM
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HI MY 92 MAX SE IS HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS BUT IT HAPPEND WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY MY CAR JUST DIED OUT ON MY ALL MY ELECTRICAL STUFF WORKS IT JUST WONT START BACK UP? WHAT COULD CAUSE IT TO JUST DIE OUT LIKE THAT
Old 05-16-2008 | 02:14 AM
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Maybe Caps Lock On?

Another possibility can be ign switch is giving out, ECU fuses, pwr supply...
Old 05-16-2008 | 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
Maybe Caps Lock On?

Another possibility can be ign switch is giving out, ECU fuses, pwr supply...
ya, try starting car with caps lock off

i dont think starter had anything to do with it dieing while already running. i could be wrong tho...try tapping starter with hammer or something while someone tries to crank her over.

mine when i tried to start it would at least attempt to start again when hitting with hammer but was toast enough to not start.

maybe one of the relays under hood?

92max se? you have the VE motor?
Old 05-16-2008 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 92MAX92
HI MY 92 MAX SE IS HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS BUT IT HAPPEND WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY MY CAR JUST DIED OUT ON MY ALL MY ELECTRICAL STUFF WORKS IT JUST WONT START BACK UP? WHAT COULD CAUSE IT TO JUST DIE OUT LIKE THAT
also has the car ever given you trouble like that before (even if it similar but not exactly like this) or is this the first time it's ever acted up? some things fail over time, some fail suddenly. and of course, me being me, i had something that usually fails over time fail suddenly.
Old 05-16-2008 | 10:20 AM
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Maybe it's your fuel pump
Old 05-16-2008 | 01:41 PM
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maybe cuz it sounds like its not its not getting any gas!!!
Old 05-16-2008 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 92MAX92
HI MY 92 MAX SE IS HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS BUT IT HAPPEND WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY MY CAR JUST DIED OUT ON MY ALL MY ELECTRICAL STUFF WORKS IT JUST WONT START BACK UP? WHAT COULD CAUSE IT TO JUST DIE OUT LIKE THAT
Check the ignition coils for cracks and report back.
Old 05-16-2008 | 02:14 PM
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where are the ignition coils located?
Old 05-16-2008 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 92MAX92
where are the ignition coils located?
The things with the number 22433 next to them:

Old 05-17-2008 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 92MAX92
maybe cuz it sounds like its not its not getting any gas!!!
I had a dying fuel pump but it's just didn't go at once...it slowly died, so maybe yours could be on it's last leg. A useful test can be found in the FSM.


Quick Reply: car wont turn over at all, was fine this morning...



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