This is the injector I broke trying to pull it out. The plastic around the metal pin thingy sticking out of the top of the injector is what broke. I could upload a picture tonight, but I don't have one right now.

If the injector was working before and only this plastic is broken, should I be able to reinstal this thing with new o-rings and have it work? My fear is that the plastic that is gone was maybe holding the metal thing in.

I think the part that is broken wouldn't affect the injector hold down since it pushes on the big flat plastic top of the injector.

If this doesn't work, I'll wiat on my replacment reman, then if that doesn't work, I'll break down and buy a new one.

I'm getting pretty good at disassembly and assembly of the intakes to get to the injectors and this is a spare car, so if I have to do it again later, it's not too big a deal.

 

Get picture, then we'll make a decision.

 

you might as well order a new one. you'll be replacing the reman within a year...

 

i have 5 used ones if you need a single to get by.

 

How much?

 

VE or VG? They're different parts.

 

yes u can still use it, it wont hurt anything,or jus stick it back in until u get the new one!

 

just one? or all? VE OR VG?

 

It's a VG, I would just need one if I were to get one.

Apparantly I'm too stupid to insert a picture into the post, but I think I have it to where I can add a link. So lets give it a try...

Hey, Maybe I'm not so stupid after all! Thanks capedcadaver!

 

click edit and change "url" to "img" on both ends of the tag. or you can click the button under advanced editing that has a mountain & sun on it

 

I wouldn't reuse it. I can tell you also that it's no longer an acceptable core either.

 

ya that looks like garbage now...I think you need that plastic part that circles in the middle there, so when you put that rubber thing on top of it, it has something to sit on. How did that get torn up like that?

 

How can you tell if it's an acceptable core or not?

 

I don't know of any rubber piece that goes on top of it. There's the aluminim (I think) hold down with a greenish metal washer looking thing in it that pushes down on the top (unless maybe the black piece under the green washer looking thing is hard rubber). When I try the 2 together (hold down and injector), there's enough of the plastic left on the connector side of the pin sticking up for the hold down to push down on and it also pushes down on the big flat plastic area.

Unless there's some electrical connection made through the plastic (not unless the laws of physics have changed) I can't see that the top plastic serves any purpose other than a place for the connector to go and for the hold down to push down on.

So..other than not being a good core injector, and being uglier than a new one, is there any mechanical/electrical reason this injector could not work if it worked before?

 

would you accept an injector to put in your car that has the top destroyed like that? either will a rebuilder. they need to present a good looking product, it doesn't need to be quality it just needs to be perceived that way. Most rebuilders (not limited to injectors) reject cores that are damaged in any way, the more common rebuilt items like starters, alternators, and rack and pinions the rebuilder takes something off the core refund for damage.

 

Sorry I missed your last question.. It sounds stupid, but the only reason I even decided to take that injector (as far as I know it worked fine before)out was that I couldn't get the hold down screws out on the #3 injector that I knew was bad (I ended up having to buy an impact screw driver to get those out), so since I could get the screws out of the #5 injector hold down, I decided to pull that one to see what it looked like. I tried to pull it by hand, I could turn it, but I couldn't really get enough upward leverage to pop it out. Then I tried wedging a screw driver under the connector part and that didn't work So grabbed the big round plastic part with a pair of pliers so it broke a litte, so then I grabbed the middle top part gently to try and pull up but I guess it wasn't gentle enough becasue if broke. I finally got it out by wrapping a cloth around the connector and grabbing the injejctor right at the bottom of the connector and pulling and twisting it up and out.

 

I can take a pic and post, but not having a camera myself would make it difficult for me...

I'll try to explain. There is a bottom O-ring, there is a bigger O-ring above that. Now that sits inside the fuel rail. Then you have about a 1/4" rubber piece with a very thin metal piece on top of that, that sits on top of injector(this is the piece on talkin about), you put that solid metal piece over that(which has 2 screws you tighten down to get everything secure) not sure what its called but its the cover over the injectors.

The piece that sits on the part thats completely gone on the injector you posted is the 2nd one from the left in this pic...

 

I use vice grips....tighten them so its just a full turn tighter on them than necesarry. that way when you clamp and lock the vice grips on them its not squeezing the crap out of them....then you slowly twist back and forth while pulling out, they should slide out.

also good idea to replace those soft metal screws nissan uses with hex bolts. cheap and easy to match at a lowes or home depot, or whatever.

 

Other then the small scarring that can be seen on the screw head, what is the point? If you get them out, they'll go back in and do their job. Since most 3rd gens are now 120-180K miles do you REALLY think you'll have the same car in another 120K-180K miles to have to do the job again? And if so, will you really go through the expense to do the injectors again?

Look, I like my Max, but if I still have it a 300K miles I'm doing something wrong.

 

you'd be suprised how many people install JY injectors or reman. injectors, or used injectors from other sourcers or even have o-ring problems. and how soon they may be needing to do the job again. especailly from what I hear about VG injectors.

sorry you think the 3rd gen isn't worth keeping around longer than 120k miles. maybe you should trade yours in while its around 3k KBB value

I know there are a few people on this forum who have near 300k on their 3rd gens..are they doing something wrong?

 

I installed the injector with the broken plastic pieces and it seems to be working fine. Drives great. This also proves that the reman I had installed in that cylinder was bad.

 

well yea...... that's rather inevitable. remans suck hard, similar to Jenna Jameson

 

you know this from first hand experience?!

 

the injector or Jenna? either way, no. just the first is "thankfully no" and the 2nd is "sadly, no"

 

 

same motor or jdm one now?

 

Original pumper in thar..

Actually, that is an old pic, it has 325k+ on it now..

 

That injector looks destroyed

 

Yep, but I put it back in the car and it's running perfectly now.

 

if it ain't broke don't fix it. but if it ain't fixed yet then don't break it! haha. (says he who almost fubar'd his oil pickup last night...)