OnTheRoad

Does anybody have a picture on how to jump the low fuel switch to turn on the light. My light is not turning on so I want to test if the bulb is good without removing the dash. I couldn't find the directions in the service manual. Hopefully my 93 Maxima is not falling apart.

OnTheRoad

On jumping the shoulder belt chime, my Maxima was wired slightly different from the other Maxima. However, the chime will still chime on occasions -- don't have an explaination other that there a bad connection upsteam, maybe in the control box.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

eh dash removal is easy tho. easier than jumping a bulb. just take off the bottom part, the part with the cruise/defogger switches, then the part around the radio, then tilt the wheel down and take off the big black part.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

it is easier to take the steering wheel shroud off. unless my car is weird, it doesn't tilt far enough down to allow easy removal of the bezel.

otherwise

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

when you first turn your key one (or is it two) click all light on the dash light up as a test. If your fuel light does not , then the bulb is fused.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i used to, but then i found out i didn't need to. maybe your car just doesn't like you

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

sometimes i have that feeling... other times, it seems to think I am a god.


seriously, i, too can do it w/out, but its a lot easier. I don't feel like I'm gonna break the damn thing.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i leave it on b/c the bitdriver that came with my tool set is too fat to fit in the holes. so rather than hunting for another slender one-tip-per-handle screwdriver, i just leave it on.

Wiking

My max likes being photographed. Shes waiting. Maybe thats why she never displays empty tank light? [and here I mean the +12V status indicator when dropped float hits the switch...]

Edit: EL-47 shows the sender unit pins, under rear seat, the next pin given is dash pin 6

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

turn on your ignition but don't start! All lights should be lit! If not it's time to either replace the bulb or test the bulb! That means you know what!

Jon94SE

I was wondering about something kind of similar to this. I swapped out gauge clusters a while ago and right at a quarter tank on the gauge my light comes on and stays on untill just below the quarter line. It then turns back off and then comes back on again around where it's supposed to at the empty line. I'm just curious as to what triggers the light itself, is it a contact point on the needle or some kind of signal from the sending unit itself? Not a big deal just always thought that was kind of strange.

Wiking

If its intermittent, then theres a short anywhere, probably cluster... If its related to tank level, then the problem has to be in the sender unit.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Errr.... If it's intermittent, and not blowing fuses, I would think it's an open. Shorts usually mean sparks, heat and electrons taking the easy road to where they're not meant to go.

Wiking

Yes cut, bad contact is also possible and they may be anywhere in the system... 'Anything' is possible, no limits. My point was pointed how the sensor is related to fuel level.

Wire may short to +12V or GND. Spark is a bonus seldom received. Heat depends what is shorted where, smoke signals may also occur. Sparking General Electric fuel sensor has been known to blow 737 from the sky

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Pull your sending unit out and clean the rheostat coil winding and the pointer. There is a dirty print or rheostat winding spot and the continuity is loss at that point and then regained below it! You should be able to do that and watch your fuel guage while you play with it in the back seat! "Sounds kinda nasty"....pull your fuel pump fuse or relay so you don't damage it or suck to much air!