projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

Hi all i really need some help. (Here is some background to the problem) Since i put in my intake a month back my rpm would drop a little when at a stop light and everything would be ok. I would drop to around 700rpm. 1st question is is 700rpm sound right at idol when at a stop light. Now Just this past Saturday i was out driving and the car at a stop light started to make a loud squalling sound and them shut off. I was able to crank it back up and pull into a parking lot and i popped the hood and to my surprise i found the vacuum hose from the intake to the car had formed a hole. The hole was formed by a tie zip that i used to hold the hose to the wires around it so it wouldn't move and i am guessing that it got so hot that it made a hole. So i cut the hose at the part and reconnected it to the car and drove right home. I just made it into my driveway and the car stalled once again. So i took out the whole intake because 1st id didn't sit right and didn't look right. I manufactured my own intake from parts i got at Pep Boys from the company Spectre. (http://www.spectreperformance.com/#HOME) Let me tell you it now sits right and looks good to. When complete i still had the problem but wasn't as bad as the other intake. I rechecked the hoses and found a small leak. i fixed it and now i can drive without the car stalling. But when at a light if idling for to long the car will start to tremble and the RPM needle will drop from 700 to 500 them flux between 500 and 200 and then the car shuts off. This is even worse when i have the AC on. What could the problem be know. There are no air leaks. Help would be great fully appreciated. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST BUT I FIGURED I WOULD GIVE AS MUCH INFO AS POSSIBLE.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

1) which motor?
2) did the intake tube you have on there now have the proper number and size of ports to hook hoses to? are you sure all the hoses are hooked up where they should be and that the MAF is plugged in properly and everything?

maximaman1313

im guessing you drive an auto as well. also like asked above, what motor is it? dohc or the sohc?

if its an auto...coming to a stop light and keeping foot on brake to stay stopped, rpm should be 700rpm...thats good.

now is car cold or hot when problem happens? or both?

how are spark plugs? if sohc motor how are spark plug wires, cap, rotor?..timing?

if it never did this until you put in the intake, i would say double and triple check over your work...lose hoses, cracked hoses. hoses in wrong spots. etc

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

1.) its a VG30(Sorry not to sure i always get mixed up about this) 1993 Nissan Maxima GXE

2.) I made my own port. I had to drill a hole and then used the Hose adapter kit (from Spectre) where you use a round rubber insert where i drilled the hole then place the appropriate hose tubing sizer on. And yes the MAF is properly plugged in.

I cant figure out for the life of me what the issue is.

maximaman1313

air probably leaking at that point, i personaly wouldnt trust the port unless it was welded on, which is hard to do with rubber haha.

I looked on their website and i could not find any intake for 3rd gen maximas....

pictures?

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

Yes I am driving an Auto and it is a SOHC.

The problem happens when the car is hot and cold.

I also recently had my rotor tightened because one day i was driving and the car shut off while foot on the gas and i couldn't start the car. I brought it to a mechanic and they took a look at the car and found out the rotor had come loose and they said they tightened it and since then the car was running fine until this past weekend.

And i have looked over every piece of work that i did and everything looks A OK. No Lose line no cracks nothing.

One thing i forgot to ask in my last post to capedcadaver is when you say Hoses how many hoses should there be. I only had one hose connected to my stock intake. So i only have connected that one hose.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

I will try and post pics in a few moments

maximaman1313

tightened rotor? never heard of anything like that , maybe new to me..

when you say rotor, you mean the round thing the brakes press against correct?

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

what they told me was there there is a rotor in the distributer and that is what had to be tightened

maximaman1313

ahh ya thats right...i drive the dohc motor, no distributor here.

sorry my mind side tracked for a second. ok back to the problem.


car never did this until intake install correct?

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

That is correct. But i had the older Honda intake i was told from this forum to bye for about 3 weeks and was running great with that until the other day when the hose burnt a hole through it. Even when i put in a new hose on the intake it still did the problem so i decided to change the intake and build one from the parts from spectre. It does fit much better and even looks better. Here is a link to a page where the pics are hosted. The 1st pics were from my short older intake that i bought and turned out to be wrong for the car and then the series of pics after is the Honda intake and the last 4 pics of the new intake. (Don't mind my brother in the background)

http://gallery.mac.com/creedman_2550...or=black&sel=9

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

on a VG, just 1. Dunno on a VE, so i just said "hoses" as a catch-all, and i didn't yet know what engine you had.

anyhow grnmaxdmn had to tighten his distro rotor. looks like this:


it's held in by a screw in the back and apparently they can become loose sometimes, but it is rare, as far as i know.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that little extra filter is your problem . get that @#%$ outta there.

it's letting in un-metered air into the IACV and TB .... the MAF reads x amount of air, but you have x+y amount of air coming in!

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

OK i will try that. Obviously i cant do it now because I'm at work but will report back with an update later tonight after i do the fix. Should I get rid of the breather hole completely or just take off the filter. Because when i take off the filter There is a adapter to where you would put in a hose but is very small and thin. The only reason that it is there is because on the Honda Intake there was 2 hose adapters. One connected to the engine and one i was told was a breather hole. And the guy at Pep Boys and auto zone said i should have that covered with a little filter and they showed me that. So i will do as you say o wise master.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

just cap the hole with one of the extra caps that came with the spectre kit if you have any left over. if not, you can get some at your local parts store to plug the hole after you take the filter off. but you can take the nipple off too, just so it doesn't look all dumb and stuff having some random nipple sticking out.

the breather filter would go on the valve-cover-side of the hose, and the intake hose would be plugged. my friend has a similar setup, due to using a flexible intake hose with no way to add vac ports to it. the reason you do it that way is if you can't bring the air from the intake hose for the blowby hose, then you still need air for it. but that air isn't going into the chambers, so it isn't affecting the combustion and AFR. a gaping hole (filter) on the intake tube going into the combustion chambers is, however, going to affect combustion and AFR.

so go back to pepboys and autozone and sodomize both those idiots that told you to add another filter post-MAF. i hope they scream and then once they can sit again, let them get back to their hondas.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

Ok Will Do thank you. I hope this will fix the issue. If not Then i guess that will mean back to the drawing board

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

and if it does, that just goes to show you a picture really is worth a thousand words.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

Well it sort of fixed the problem. At least it dosn't stall out but when at a light for a while the car trembles and the rpm needle goes between 500 an 400 and just trembles. What should i look at next to fix the problem

whattingh

Could I suggest cleaning IACV. You said that the one pipe had a hole and maybe small bits of rubber got into the iacv or the iacv is just dirty in general. It is a fast and easy job. Did it the other day.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

I am sorry but this is a dumb question, especially with all the work i've done. What is the IACV and where is it? And how do i clean it?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea that's a good idea. my other suggestion in addition to that would be to unplug the battery while cleaning the iacv (combine tasks to save time.... iacv doesn't require battery disconnect) so the ECU will reset and re-learn the engine. It'll run funny for the first few minutes until it warms up and starts sorting things out, but once it does, it should run better.

whattingh

iacv = idle air control valve.
Where it is: see pic below
I have clean mine with spirits and toothpick to get to big chucks off. The dirt is black carbon type of build up. Once you have it open it makes sense.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

don't forget to clean the seat where the tip goes too... it's brass-colored and if you just clean the plunger and not the seat, you'll still have crappyness.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

OH MY GOD (HANDS ON MY HEAD MOUTH DROPPED OPEN)

This looks hard. You said you did this and its easy. I hope i don't mess anything up when i do this.

whattingh

no need to strip all. Look on the pic for the IACV.
the IACV is held by 4 hex bolts. Remove them, unplug the wires en unplug the pipe from the air intake. then it comes off. Just have gasket paper handy incase the old one cant be used again. Then clean it and put back together

oh yes check this out
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/4

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

just the iacv itself... 3 screws. you don't have to take allllllll that crap apart, just the cylindrical thing that says "iacv-aac (stepper motor type)"

i had a picture of the 'seat' but i can't find it... i thought it was on photobucket but i guess not.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

Ok I feel a little better about doing this now.
I also noticed this in the link to the website

" Idle speed (A/T: in "N" position), 7-800 rpm.
Adjustment:
- Turn the mode selection on the ECU fully clockwise (closes IACV valve completely).
- Adjust engine speed by turning IACV idle speed adj screw (6.)
- Turn the mode selection on the ECU back; fully CCW
FSM: Idle adjustment is done with ECU program III; see EF&EC 29 "


Is this ok to do. Maybe by bringing up my idle speed to 800 when in neutral will help out. What do you think. Because my idle speed in neutral is 500 - 400. Now another question. The ECU i can access that from the passenger side seat under the radio compartment correct or is that something else?

whattingh

That is correct. There is just a plastic panel you have to take out to see the ecu. Once you have cleaned the iacv the idle may already pickup a bit.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

cool that sounds good. I will report back tonight on how i made out. Lets keep our fingers crossed and hope this finally fixes my problem

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

Sorry i couldn't report back last night it got to late. Well i did what you guys told me and it is better but still has trouble. It seemed to get better when i went down to the ECU and did that procedure mentioned in one of my posts above. The car idles OK at 800-700 without the AC but after a while it will drop to 500 with the AC on and begins to tremble again. It shut off on me this morning while pulling out of my driveway (AC NOT ON AT THIS POINT) and didn't shut off again. I got to work just fine. I turned the AC on and trembling again at the lights. What could this be.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

may be bad injectors... does the car vibrate w/ ac off at idle?

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

Not anymore. It was before i did the procedures with the ECU and Idle Screw on the IAVC. It now stays at a steady 800-700 when idle with the AC Off. And just as a FYI the guy that had the car before me had the Injectors cleaned before i got the car from him. They were cleaned about 7 months ago and i got the car 4-5 months ago

whattingh

Is the "after a while" maybe related with car getting to normal operating temp? The direction I think in is that the IACV or the water temp control air cut value inline with the iacv is not operating correctly.

When the car idle low (below 700rpm) go and pull the spark plug wire off one by one and see if anyone one of them does not make a difference in the idling. Then it would be a injector or spark plug trouble. I'm just thinking if it was injector or spark plug wouldn't that be a problem with driving as well? The fact that it just gives trouble with idling makes me think it is around the iacv.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

I can understand the that after a while the car does get to normal operating temps but there is no reason that it should tremble, or even shut off for that matter. But the fact that this is only happening when the AC is on now has gotten me even more stumped.

whattingh

At what rpm does the car idle when still cold. It should be around 1200rpm.
When the a/c is switch on the it sends a signal to the ecu and the ecu adjust the idle. Maybe the ecu is not get the signal.

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

When the car is cold it idles at 800. I was told idle for the car should be 800 to 700 that is why i set it to 800 last night.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well if the iacv isn't pickup up the slack when a/c comes on, that could explain why the idle drops with a/c coming on. does the idle change when you turn the screw on the ECU?

projectviper255

iTrader: (1)

yes it does

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

k so the iacv is at least somewhat working. maybe check the resistance figures on the IACV.. maybe it's not able to work through its full range. the adjustment screw on the iacv itself is really just in case the iacv fails, your car won't shut off... b/c the ECU should be able to control idle even if you shut that adjustment screw off completely (the one on the IACV itself, that is)

whattingh

here is a graph of what rpm should be according to FSM.