Heya guys.....

So there are problems.

I figure i'll list what's not working and hopefully ya'll can help me out with this.

- Horn and lights
- Seatbelts
- Windows, sunroof, and door locks
- Radio
- Clock
- Windshield wipers
- The gauges (speedometer, tachometer, warning lights, temp guage, etc.)
- And the gear shift does not come out of park. I don' t hear that small click when apply pressure to the break that i associated with the shift lock releasing.

The car turns over and runs. Well it did. I restarted it so many times that the battery became exhausted .... and that battery isn't too old.

So, yeah, please help.

I can't afford 1. to take this sucker to a mechanic and get spun around (no mechanics that i trust in the area) and 2. to not have a car right now.

Thanks so much!

-kevin

 

did all those problems happen immediately at once? or failed one by one? check every single fuse you can get your hands on, and if you need a shiftlock control box i have one that works that i don't need anymore since my 5spd swap. my car controller still clicks even tho the shifter is not connected to it, but the LOUDER click is always the shifter itself. have someone else step on the brake with the ignition on... is the clicking coming from the passenger door hinge area, or from the shifter area?

 

not sure if you have one but some nissans (most of the ones i'v owned) has a storage switch next to the fuse box (under the dash) check that when checking fuses

 

They all happened at once but they followed a different occurrence ...

The car got hit by a semi. Then repaired by a professional shop. At a point in the following week the alarm system would go off at random (really, it would go off if the car were parked OR driving --- as long as the doors were locked the alarm system was armed and would then go off at some random point.)

I 'fixed' that perhaps badly.... tried grounding out a wire (can't think of witch now, but it made sense at the time, that led into the silver security box undearneath the stealing wheel) to a chassis point (probably made a mistake grounding it anywhere close to the fuse box...)

That went perfectly for about 1.5 weeks. No problems. Then my girlfriend took the car out and when she came out again to use the vehicle for the return trip the key wouldn't 'turn on'. I went out and had no problems... but the shift lock wouldn't engage. I turned off and on the car and it worked. At that point i noticed that the interior lights/gauges were unusually BRIGHT. The car had some throttle issues, plus it was weird with the lights so i parked.... undid my fix, soldered the wire back together, wrapped it up, etc.

The car was having the bright-ness issues still and i wanted to get it home and parked pronto. I did. Upon going out the next day i couldn't get the shift lock undone, and i noticed the aforementioned problems.

So there ya go, thanks for the tips. I went out and checked the fuses that i could find, but upon visually inspecting them i could not find any burnt out. I checked a few fusable links in the engine bay and the fuses in the little box underneath and to the left of the steering column. Should i do more than 'look' at them? is there a way to test them?

Thanks for reading this! lol.

-kevin

 

hmmm. gonna go check on what all the tcu does...

check your TCU(timer Control Unit, not tranny control) it controls wipers, dash lights, and some other stuff.
if its fried, all that stuff is gone.
(ask me how I know)

I got a "new" one for about a buck at my junk yard.

 

I can clarify the TCU controls:

-it controls the middle wiper speed, no TCU = only low or high
-controls the dome light dimming feature, no TCU = when car doors closes, dome lights goes out right away instead of dimming out
-controls lights in gauge cluster

it DOES NOT affect:

-seatbelt (I pulled the box while driving to the junk yard looking for a replacement)
-windows, sunroof, and doorlocks
-speedometer and odometers.

It truly sounds like you fried something, but what, I don't have the expertise to tell.

To really check the fuses, you have pull them out individually one by one, since some fuse may appear to fine when looking top down, but when taken out, it had burned out (ask me how I know).

Other than that, check the alternator, the voltage regulator may have been fried, which would explains the sudden brightness and fried some other components along with it. Also, find a silver box that says security on it and disconnect it altogether and see if you at least have the door locks working again.

Good luck.

 

not really sure but check your brake light bulbs for the shifter click thing, one or more of them may be out.

 

so Kane.... where is the clicking actually coming from? shifter area or door area?

 

oh i think i mis typed up there, there is NO clicking ---- and that is the difference.
back when the car worked, when i applied pressure to the brake when the vehicle was in park i heard a faint click that i took to be the shift lock. However, now, there is no click.

Guys, i'm gonna check some things on it.... hopefully i'll be able to get back to ya soon.

Thanks a ton!

-kev

 

well if it don't click it's either the shifter assembly OR the control box.

 

Is there a method for testing these? I am having the same problem with my Max and I've been meaning to address it.

If it hasn't been mentioned elsewhere there is a manual way to get your gear shifter out of park. You can pop the plastic top off the little circular item at the front of the gear shift. Underneath is what appears to be a screw. Use a Phillips head screw driver and unscrew it and remove. It's actually cylindrical in shape. You will see a little metal rod. When you need to release the gear shift manually use the same Phillips head screw driver to depress the metal rod. While it is depressed you can shift out of park.

I keep my Phillips head screw driver in the car at all times as a temporary fix until I figure this out. At one time it was a blown fuse. I have since replaced the fuse, which lasted for a while, but now I'm back to the same old problem and the fuse is still intact.

 

to get the shiftlock to disengage you push the whole cap.... haha. no need to take anything out!

anyhow FSM page AT-164 is where the diagnosis starts

 

the exact same thing happened to me last week... all i had to do was to replace the main fuse. $5 and 1o minutes to repair. all is working fine now

 

ha.....its a small world.....anyway, i just bought this project from him, and went over everything with a multimeter, all of the circuits seem to be fine after testing continuity at every circuit, next step was to check the charging system, i know some cars will kill most cabin circuits not related to the engine running in order to get you where you need to go in the case of a faulty alt or batt. i bench tested the alt and saw no voltage from it, went and got another one from the junk yard, hooked it up....and i figured since i was in there i might as well beef up the charging system with the "big three" i jump started the car, and as he said above everything seemed REALLY bright, so i checked the voltage coming off of the alternator......and saw 16.3v

dont these alternators have a built in regulator? if not where is it?....

i think i MIGHT have found the problem, as all of the cabin electronics were in working order....but on steroids


any help would be awesome!

 

the voltage regulator should be inside the alternator casing itself. Also, as I have already stated, I think the regulator is fried. I think your best bet is to go buy a remanufactured alternator to do testing, if it turns out not to be the case, then simply return for a full refund.

 

this is a new alt......

i took it out for a test drive, everything seemed to work great until......the check engine light came on about 5 min into the drive....and then the car was running rough, at idle and while driving, seemed like it was firing on 5 cyl. and didnt have 1/2 the power it did, im thinking MAF....input?

 

Glad ya got it working for ya!

[smiles]

 

you guys think my rough idle problem is due to a bad maf?

 

"funny stories"
i so far have helped 3 clueless strangers in parking lots with a 3rd gen trying to figure out why their car wont start after they just droveit and then the alram starts going off and tey have no idea how too stop it
apparently the security system in the 3rd gen prevent it from starting when the wheels tilt at a certain angle all u have too do is jiggle the steering wheel back and forth while at the the same time turning the key

i dont wats wrong wih your tranny but unless you tried (which i cant really tell) there is a colored shiflock behind the shifter that im using pretty much daily at this point
to get it out of park since all this stuff has gotten worse or more sensitive overtime im guessing theres something wrong with watever the hell controls that stuff

 

alright im having a big problem witht the wiring on my car its the main engine wiring harness
the front of my car has 3 fuel injectors with wiring on top of it and that wiring harness clips into the main harness of the engine. thats the basic infor so far
alright in the clip has 4 points 1 power 3 gorunds
so i had to wire up the front injectors with 1 power 1 ground for 3 of them when i was done doing that i tryed to start my car but no start. so i checked everything and then i checked the main engine wring harness to see whats going on now Now i am getting 3 grounds and no power
how the hell do the wiring swtich like that?
can it be my ecu or i need an entire new engine wiring harness

 

alright im having almost the same problem.
i got a 1994 nissan maxima 3.0 sohc
i so ready to smash this car omg u have no idea.
1 the front 3 injectors = wiring somthing is wrong with it
2 the connector piece to the wiring harness is messed up i dont know why i check it with a tester light to see if its giving me power and ground Nope its not its only giving me 3 grounds i dont know why
so theres a problem somwhere in my engine wiring harness which sucks
also before that i was getting 2 grounds and 1 power after hooking up the fuel injectors still no start..... errrrrr...... now i take it off now and check the wiring clip its shows me 3 grounds ..... is there like a fuse i dont know about in the wiring harness or sumthing i have the complete car interor taken out i can see the the fuse box to the driver low side and big blue fues there too also to the passenger sige low feet thers a fuse box there too i dont know whats that for also i see my ecu and i see two red lights in it i dont know why if you live in new jersey in the sussex area can u come and give me a hand to fix this probelm my number is 862 228 8882 ask for kane
i really want this car to be fix its been 4 months trying to get this car fix so i can get a job....

 

use a injector tester to ensure your indeed recieving power for your injectors!

 

AKA Noid Light

 

no power to it but have ground.....

 

how do you diagnostic your computer the box in the lower right passenger seat floor by the feet how do u check it?

 

check the stickies, I think a link is in there.

 

alright sooo.. i got the problem to my car the ecu was shot the fuses blew and little stuff need changing..... now i get the car to turn on and run but now theres a vaccume leak sum where in the system... disconnected the egrc from the side of the intake manifold.. and turned the car on and put a balloon on the hose that would lead into the egrc and nothing so i have a vaccume leak somewhere.. so me and my friend took starting fluid sprayed on the left side of the engine and it revved up a little not engough to know where its coming from.... and then sparyed the front under the intake manifold BOY THAT WAS A MISTAKE CAUSE MY ENGINE CAUGHT ON FIRE..... but put it out witha fire extenguisher.... but i was just wondering what control what for the vaccume system...

and dude all your stuff that aint working in your car is an easy fix... 1 go back to the person who fixed the car cause he didnt fix somthing.... and 2 once you take out the fuse box in your lower left leg box i mean leave all the fuses that are in there and take it out and check the ground cable behind it make sure its not loose ad i think theres a round fuse that u might have to change once u take out the fuse box its the breaker... and yes 3rd gens have breakers in there car.....