blackandwhite

iTrader: (3)

All:

I have a VE 5-speed. It will not start. It has a new starter, good battery, etc....but it will not start on its own.

Because it's a 5-speed, I can push start it and get it running, but if I allow the RPM needle to drop below 2000 RPM (or so) it just dies completely.

My guess is that maybe it is something with the ignition system, but I have run out of things to try.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Check your coil packs.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Vacuum leak.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

how old is the fuel?
any water in it? diesel?
when it does run, is it spitting out any smoke?

does it turn over (crank) and just not start, or does it not even crank?

blackandwhite

iTrader: (3)

The fuel has been it is almost 2 years ....but this problem has been the same thorughout

yeah, it did for a moment, due to some water that got in the tailpipe, but I THINK the fuel is okay

It cranks fine, but does not start unless pushed. I've had the starter and the battery checked.

blackandwhite

iTrader: (3)

I have been thorugh the vacuum line diagram from the FSM, and I believe that they are all intact.

Any specific vacuum line I should check related to this?

blackandwhite

iTrader: (3)

I did the voltage/resistance check as suggest in the Chilton manual, and all appear ok.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

I'd check for cracks just in case, so you could be sure.

Wow I cant believe your fuel is two years old, did you use any additives in it before starting? You changed the oil, right?

blackandwhite

iTrader: (3)

The car has been started a handful of times since November 2006 when it last ran correctly. I use try to work on it once every couple of months, but it's been about six months since I last tocuhed it.

The fuel is now about 18 months old, the car was last started when it was just over a year old.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Have you checked for corrosion, like around the grounds?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I would pull the tank, drain the remaining fuel, and clean the tank out. also change the fuel filter, and hopefully the fuel lines aren't clogged. and throw a bottle of fuel injector cleaner into a full tank and run it for a while. fuel thats 18 months old could easily gum things up. and keep an eye on the filter.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

none specifically that I can think of.
but the lack of being able to idle is what causes my concern

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

what color was the smoke that came out of it? white? blue? black?
steam is not white smoke.. you'll notice a big difference.

when it started running bad, what happened just before that? you didn't happen to fill up at a Shell on the north side of town, did you? particularly an intersection where there's a shell station on 3 of the 4 corners? Was it during the MLB playoffs/world series?

(that particular station filled their unleaded tanks w/ diesel about 2-2.5 years ago. I had a customer in another oatmeal Maxima tow her car to me and I remember the jackass towtruck driver showing up at 4am because he didn't want to miss any of the good paying $250 illegal parking tows during the world series game at MM Park)...



With the fuel being 2+ years old, you'll never get the car running right anyway. drain the tank and put a couple gallons of good fuel in there.. it takes 2-3-4 gallons to keep the pump submerged and not sucking up air bubbles. I have plenty of empty gas cans at the house from the last time if you want to make the drive down.. change the filter and make sure whatever's coming back in the fuel lines isn't cloudy or stinks to hell.

you can pull the fuel pump by removing the back seat and pull the round/square cover off. the pump then comes out with about 8 little screws and just lifts out.
the easiest way to drain the tank is to hook a rubber hose to the high pressure side of the pump and just stick +12v onto the pump and let it run till it sucks air. when it's pumping air bubbles, pull the pump out and use a siphon hose or something to get the last of it out.
check the inside of the tank. it should be shiny metal and not smell. if it stinks or smells like a woodworking shop after a layer of varnish, and/or the gas is orange/brown, then you need to fill the tank with some fresh gas, let the pump run a while recycleing the lines, then pump all that out.

If the gas in the tank still smells okay and is clear (good gas is almost white. it's not as gold as people think it is), then just dump the tank and put about 5 gallons of good gas in it and start over again.

hadman

iTrader: (21)

Interesting thread. I'm also wondering about the inability to maintain idle. That's usually an IACV or MAF issue. Of course the aged gas adds a whole extra spin on it. I concur with replacing it at the very least.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Iono about the old gas being an issue. I've ran several cars on old gas with no issues at all.

blackandwhite

iTrader: (3)

I think it was white, it was similar to what you'd see with Seafoam treatment. But it was temporary, once the water burned off, I haven't really seen any smoke, but again it's been six months...I know it quit once I got the car up and running (after the push start)


It overheated. No radiator cap (Yeah I know ). I had it towed home, and tore it down, inspected/replace hoses, belts, oil (checking for water), replaced the water pump. Put it all back together, and it would not start, it cranks strong, but won't turn over.

I went through the FSM procedure, and I could feel the fuel pressure building in the line, but nothing .

I'm pretty sure it's not heat damage, because I've had no leaks since the repairs to the cooling system, but maybe I hooked something back wrong, or some sensor or something has died in the last 18 months while it has sat in my garage.



but wouldn't start....at first, each time I was able to push start it, it was frying the ECU dash fuse. I then checked and unhooked my VTC grounding setup, because it caused that fuse problem and still nothing...

Which also reminds me, after it wouldn't start, I left it on the street and it got flooded....maybe it was enough to get the ECU, but I'm not sure. Maybe the ECU was already gone because I screw somehting up....

Are my problems possibly symptoms of a failed ECU? I am attempting to find a replacement, along with the VTC protion of the wiring harness, which has been destroyed by leaking oil from the solenoid.










Okay, I'll go in after the gas the next time I get time to work on it.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

My ECU was also destroyed by a flood, but it was still able to start the car in safe mode. If the red light is constantly on when you have the key in, then its bad, there a few other symptoms as well.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Sounds like you just need to buy another car.

you may want to check compression and make sure no valves are burned or HG blown.
you won't necessarily lose lots of water if the HG goes, but you'll get some in the engine. white smoke is signs of diesel in the fuel or antifreeze (blown HG) which is very common in the event of overheating.

a blown HG will also cause lower compression and harder starting, and can also foul the spark plugs...
pull the spark plugs and take a look at them.. let us know what you find.


THEN there's the old gas and the possible bad ECU and bad wiring harness... yeeesh. that poor car just isn't having much luck!!

blackandwhite

iTrader: (3)

Well, I already have another car. This one is taking up space in my garage, and keeping my from working on my 5th gen, which at the very least is in need a few mods.

I'll pull them tonight. Thanks.

I know, I'd have it towed off if it wasn't for the fact that it ran well when I push started it, and I feel like I'm giving up. Plus all the mods, and the new (within a year) clutch, water pump, alternator, ps pump.

I think it may be some electrical issue with the ECU or the harness. Basically the engineer in me wants to figure it out, before I have it hauled off. Even if (excuse me)...WHEN I get rid of it, I'd like to drive it away, if possible or practical.