Engine rebuild and transmission replacement
08-10-2008, 07:46 AM
#121
u sound disappointed man....but its not the matter that 3rd gen doesnt handle like a sports car, all it matters that it handles way better than MANY FWD cars....and it has the ability to destroy many cars on the road today...NOT ALL...obviously nothing is perfect.....dats wat i think 
08-10-2008, 09:05 AM
#122
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 447
Mitsubishi 3000GTs can weigh up to 3,770lbs from the factory, a MKIV Toyota Supra NA weighs 3219lbs, the turbocharged MKIV is 3486, a Z32 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 weighs 3550 and the regular model weighs 3300lbs.
Hell, even an FC RX-7 can hit 3071lbs with it's itty bitty 1.3 liter rotary.
Why not just give up and call the Corvette heavy? I know of some sports cars that weigh less than half of 3200lbs (http://www.arielatom.com/specs/atom-3-specs & http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_2-Eleven)
As far as I'm concerned the Maxima is really light for it's weight, size and price.
08-10-2008, 09:49 AM
#123
LOL. I had a pretty heavily modded 3-gen also. BBks, all the suspension bits, track edition Z wheels/tires blah, blah. It handled well FOR a 3 gen. And that was fine. Learned alot along they way. But my bone stock auto 03 G sedan on worn tires would have destroyed it. One can only polish a turd so far ya know.
But go ahead and not take the advice of 3 guys that had heavily modded 3-gens and developed alot of the mods you take for granted now.
But go ahead and not take the advice of 3 guys that had heavily modded 3-gens and developed alot of the mods you take for granted now.
08-10-2008, 10:53 AM
#124
but yeah, I'm always kinda agreeing with Perv and Matt on these matters... I guess I'm a realist too. Kinda like how people classify a car as 'good' simply because it has x.y Liter engine or whatever... my car is 160hp 3 liter... the oldsmobile is a 3.8L. Is the olds faster? No. HELL no. 0-60 in oops-it-took-so-long-i-stopped-counting-already. First off, the Olds is a fat pig. RWD? Yea, but so what. Handles like an ice cube. Bigger engine? Yep. But it's a low-comp OHV 2bbl piece of crap that puts out 110hp when tuned and fresh. If the olds passed me at 30 and I started from a stop as it passed me, i'd still beat it to 60mph.
but i'm pretty certain that a 300c hemi will whoop my ***, even if it's 500lb heavier.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 08-10-2008 at 11:37 AM.
08-10-2008, 01:23 PM
#125
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C
Posts: 1,355
08-10-2008, 02:58 PM
#127
It's pretty much what Pervis said.
The 3 gen Max uses a 12" long front strut. the 4 gen uses a 14" long strut. 5th gen uses a 14 or 15" strut.
Mitsu Eclipse uses a 13" strut. FD RX7 uses a 13" strut. So does the Toyota MR2.
VW Rabbit uses a 14" strut.
Soooo, in order for the Max to get that nice low hood line, it runs a very short strut, and you have extremely limited suspension travel. there's only so many inches of travel available between the 4x4 look and engine crossmember banging on the ground.
That said, the suspension must be made soooo stiff to keep it from bottoming out in corners that you wind up causing other problems. Going lower than 1.5" drop also causes bumpsteer issues which requires $$$LOTS$$$ of suspension work to rectify. not just a custom tie rod, but custom tie rods, control arms, ball joints, struts, strut mounts, etc...
Then there's weight distribution... there's 1170lb on each front wheel and only 700 on each rear. that's 62.5% front weight. ouch.
problem is, going to a 50/50 weight distro would take REMOVING (not just moving around) about 300lb from the front of the car.. But if you do that, the FWD car won't pull off the line or out of corners because there's no weight on the wheels doing the acceleration.
There's lots of severe limitations to the car's design for true performance. I could go on, but I think you get the point now.
It's just not worth it to put tons of money into these cars if you want a good handling car. start with something with more potential.. If you respect it for what it is- a decent handling FWD family car with a decently powerful engine, then it does its job wonderfully. and that's why I still have mine (aside from the fact I'll never get the money out that I put in...)
The 3 gen Max uses a 12" long front strut. the 4 gen uses a 14" long strut. 5th gen uses a 14 or 15" strut.
Mitsu Eclipse uses a 13" strut. FD RX7 uses a 13" strut. So does the Toyota MR2.
VW Rabbit uses a 14" strut.
Soooo, in order for the Max to get that nice low hood line, it runs a very short strut, and you have extremely limited suspension travel. there's only so many inches of travel available between the 4x4 look and engine crossmember banging on the ground.
That said, the suspension must be made soooo stiff to keep it from bottoming out in corners that you wind up causing other problems. Going lower than 1.5" drop also causes bumpsteer issues which requires $$$LOTS$$$ of suspension work to rectify. not just a custom tie rod, but custom tie rods, control arms, ball joints, struts, strut mounts, etc...
Then there's weight distribution... there's 1170lb on each front wheel and only 700 on each rear. that's 62.5% front weight. ouch.
problem is, going to a 50/50 weight distro would take REMOVING (not just moving around) about 300lb from the front of the car.. But if you do that, the FWD car won't pull off the line or out of corners because there's no weight on the wheels doing the acceleration.
There's lots of severe limitations to the car's design for true performance. I could go on, but I think you get the point now.
It's just not worth it to put tons of money into these cars if you want a good handling car. start with something with more potential.. If you respect it for what it is- a decent handling FWD family car with a decently powerful engine, then it does its job wonderfully. and that's why I still have mine (aside from the fact I'll never get the money out that I put in...)
08-10-2008, 04:30 PM
#128
It's pretty much what Pervis said.
The 3 gen Max uses a 12" long front strut. the 4 gen uses a 14" long strut. 5th gen uses a 14 or 15" strut.
Mitsu Eclipse uses a 13" strut. FD RX7 uses a 13" strut. So does the Toyota MR2.
VW Rabbit uses a 14" strut.
Soooo, in order for the Max to get that nice low hood line, it runs a very short strut, and you have extremely limited suspension travel. there's only so many inches of travel available between the 4x4 look and engine crossmember banging on the ground.
That said, the suspension must be made soooo stiff to keep it from bottoming out in corners that you wind up causing other problems. Going lower than 1.5" drop also causes bumpsteer issues which requires $$$LOTS$$$ of suspension work to rectify. not just a custom tie rod, but custom tie rods, control arms, ball joints, struts, strut mounts, etc...
Then there's weight distribution... there's 1170lb on each front wheel and only 700 on each rear. that's 62.5% front weight. ouch.
problem is, going to a 50/50 weight distro would take REMOVING (not just moving around) about 300lb from the front of the car.. But if you do that, the FWD car won't pull off the line or out of corners because there's no weight on the wheels doing the acceleration.
There's lots of severe limitations to the car's design for true performance. I could go on, but I think you get the point now.
It's just not worth it to put tons of money into these cars if you want a good handling car. start with something with more potential.. If you respect it for what it is- a decent handling FWD family car with a decently powerful engine, then it does its job wonderfully. and that's why I still have mine (aside from the fact I'll never get the money out that I put in...)
The 3 gen Max uses a 12" long front strut. the 4 gen uses a 14" long strut. 5th gen uses a 14 or 15" strut.
Mitsu Eclipse uses a 13" strut. FD RX7 uses a 13" strut. So does the Toyota MR2.
VW Rabbit uses a 14" strut.
Soooo, in order for the Max to get that nice low hood line, it runs a very short strut, and you have extremely limited suspension travel. there's only so many inches of travel available between the 4x4 look and engine crossmember banging on the ground.
That said, the suspension must be made soooo stiff to keep it from bottoming out in corners that you wind up causing other problems. Going lower than 1.5" drop also causes bumpsteer issues which requires $$$LOTS$$$ of suspension work to rectify. not just a custom tie rod, but custom tie rods, control arms, ball joints, struts, strut mounts, etc...
Then there's weight distribution... there's 1170lb on each front wheel and only 700 on each rear. that's 62.5% front weight. ouch.
problem is, going to a 50/50 weight distro would take REMOVING (not just moving around) about 300lb from the front of the car.. But if you do that, the FWD car won't pull off the line or out of corners because there's no weight on the wheels doing the acceleration.
There's lots of severe limitations to the car's design for true performance. I could go on, but I think you get the point now.
It's just not worth it to put tons of money into these cars if you want a good handling car. start with something with more potential.. If you respect it for what it is- a decent handling FWD family car with a decently powerful engine, then it does its job wonderfully. and that's why I still have mine (aside from the fact I'll never get the money out that I put in...)
08-10-2008, 05:41 PM
#129
we're talking a one in a bazillion chance that would happen, but yeah, swapping to a VQ and moving the 100lb tranny to the center of the car would help a ton.
Since you'd have to completely redesign the engine, tranny tunnel, and front and rear suspension and brakes, you'd have the option to 'fix' many of the 3 gen's weaknesses. stuff a double a-arm suspension under the front end and a 4-link type under the rear. lose some weight off the front end and transfer some to the rear, while you're adding the weight of a diff and axles and subframe to the rear as well.
So umm yeah. in theory, it'll make a huge difference. In reality, it's not gonna happen. nobody in their right mind would do that to an almost 20 yr old car.
then again, it'd be the perfect candidate since it's not worth much to begin with!
Since you'd have to completely redesign the engine, tranny tunnel, and front and rear suspension and brakes, you'd have the option to 'fix' many of the 3 gen's weaknesses. stuff a double a-arm suspension under the front end and a 4-link type under the rear. lose some weight off the front end and transfer some to the rear, while you're adding the weight of a diff and axles and subframe to the rear as well.
So umm yeah. in theory, it'll make a huge difference. In reality, it's not gonna happen. nobody in their right mind would do that to an almost 20 yr old car.
then again, it'd be the perfect candidate since it's not worth much to begin with!
08-10-2008, 09:21 PM
#130
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alachua, FL 32615
Posts: 1,096
we're talking a one in a bazillion chance that would happen, but yeah, swapping to a VQ and moving the 100lb tranny to the center of the car would help a ton.
Since you'd have to completely redesign the engine, tranny tunnel, and front and rear suspension and brakes, you'd have the option to 'fix' many of the 3 gen's weaknesses. stuff a double a-arm suspension under the front end and a 4-link type under the rear. lose some weight off the front end and transfer some to the rear, while you're adding the weight of a diff and axles and subframe to the rear as well.
So umm yeah. in theory, it'll make a huge difference. In reality, it's not gonna happen. nobody in their right mind would do that to an almost 20 yr old car.
then again, it'd be the perfect candidate since it's not worth much to begin with!
Since you'd have to completely redesign the engine, tranny tunnel, and front and rear suspension and brakes, you'd have the option to 'fix' many of the 3 gen's weaknesses. stuff a double a-arm suspension under the front end and a 4-link type under the rear. lose some weight off the front end and transfer some to the rear, while you're adding the weight of a diff and axles and subframe to the rear as well.
So umm yeah. in theory, it'll make a huge difference. In reality, it's not gonna happen. nobody in their right mind would do that to an almost 20 yr old car.
then again, it'd be the perfect candidate since it's not worth much to begin with!
Maybe that's why I'll do it. Or, after having been working (and sleeping) under my car for the past week, I don't know if I will ever do much more to it
08-10-2008, 09:23 PM
#131
i have to say GOD ****ING DAM IT now that im done with that i just wanna say thank you very much everybody for preventing me from making a horrible mistake the engine i was planning on building was gonna be a 13:1 CR engine and obviously im not gonna run racing fuel everday i didn't factor compression into the build that was an awful mistake. id just like to say thank you matt im sure alot of these guys could've have told me something similair but they didn't you did very detailed and very realistic.
which is why i had to scrap my whole engine plan and start from scratch.
you just saved me thousands of dollars i will definitely be buying everything from blehmco.com that will fit on my car
but i just gotta ask after all that why haven't u gone turbo?
i will be buying everything on that list, but i was reading your machining thread and i notice u breifly mentioned that a VG could benefit from using VE valves if u just grind down the stems would that work or would i need to do some head work
alright this post has been driving me crazy what 2 things did i miss that are the biggest power adders i haven't been able to figure this post out for **** please shed some light on what those 2 things are
please stop comparing our cars to 2 doors there are people out there like me who are too tall to fit in half the cars you guys are talking alright so please stop needlessly depressing me
is this something i should be concerned about with KONI i was considering buying them cuase there adjustable and i wanna raise the car
im totally putting this quote in my new sig
i still doing the tranny and ECU swap im still doing the exhaust the way i planned but my engine could really use some ideas ill replace the valves injectors and plugs get the $700 camshafts and call it a day but as far as originality goes where do i go from here? hows a 50/50 water/meth injection kit sound?
which is why i had to scrap my whole engine plan and start from scratch.
been there, done that. I now have a $50,000 3rd gen that's still slow compared to newer FWDs and can't handle even as well as a stock BMW 3 series... and it rides like **** and it's a temperamental ***** on the roads because the suspension is so stiff and the engine is so touchy...
but i just gotta ask after all that why haven't u gone turbo?
im totally putting this quote in my new sig
i still doing the tranny and ECU swap im still doing the exhaust the way i planned but my engine could really use some ideas ill replace the valves injectors and plugs get the $700 camshafts and call it a day but as far as originality goes where do i go from here? hows a 50/50 water/meth injection kit sound?
08-10-2008, 09:59 PM
#132
08-11-2008, 01:35 PM
#135
well actually i like the 4x4 look is there a way to really raise it cheaply without performance being dramatically effected
the one second from the right is more my style where did u get that pic anyway?
the one second from the right is more my style where did u get that pic anyway?
08-11-2008, 01:45 PM
#136
that pic is one i took at Maxus in Chicago. Yes i drove from NC to Chigago. Yes it was 14 hours. Yes my legs went numb sometime during Ohio, and yes dropping cruise control and shifting was kinda.... funny-feeling once i got to Gary, In.
08-11-2008, 02:07 PM
#138
well i want a car thats not gonna slam on the ground at every pothole im in the northeast and potholes are on almost every road so im destroying the axels
someone recommended stiffening the suspension and maybe raising it but i dont want it dramtically effecting performance i know its best to go as low as possible but that will destoy my car out here
someone recommended stiffening the suspension and maybe raising it but i dont want it dramtically effecting performance i know its best to go as low as possible but that will destoy my car out here
08-11-2008, 02:33 PM
#139
well i want a car thats not gonna slam on the ground at every pothole im in the northeast and potholes are on almost every road so im destroying the axels
someone recommended stiffening the suspension and maybe raising it but i dont want it dramtically effecting performance i know its best to go as low as possible but that will destoy my car out here
someone recommended stiffening the suspension and maybe raising it but i dont want it dramtically effecting performance i know its best to go as low as possible but that will destoy my car out here
08-11-2008, 04:40 PM
#141
Matt... PHYSICS always win over everything.
My sayings is "Friction, there when you don't need it, and not there when you do."
I.E.
A1: Why we need lubrication (get yo' minds out the gutter) = minimize Friction.
A2: Drag, slows the car down,
B. When braking into a skid, static friction turns into sliding friction and static friction > sliding friction. This leads into the creation of ABS.
Possible a good way to take weight out of the car...
make the body Fiberglass!!!
Out cars are steel right? Whatever it is, when someone hit and ran on my car 2yrs ago, There was more glass on their the ground where my car was hit (rear driver on the street parked) Then I realized, the no glass was a part of my car. It damage my body and my taillight, in which does not contain glass.
So let the flaming on me begin.
P.S. The only ones who will put money and work into a car is an extreme enthusiast, so I challenge him/her to make a RWD/Mid engine Max.
My sayings is "Friction, there when you don't need it, and not there when you do."
I.E.
A1: Why we need lubrication (get yo' minds out the gutter) = minimize Friction.
A2: Drag, slows the car down,
B. When braking into a skid, static friction turns into sliding friction and static friction > sliding friction. This leads into the creation of ABS.
Possible a good way to take weight out of the car...
make the body Fiberglass!!!
Out cars are steel right? Whatever it is, when someone hit and ran on my car 2yrs ago, There was more glass on their the ground where my car was hit (rear driver on the street parked) Then I realized, the no glass was a part of my car. It damage my body and my taillight, in which does not contain glass.
So let the flaming on me begin.
P.S. The only ones who will put money and work into a car is an extreme enthusiast, so I challenge him/her to make a RWD/Mid engine Max.
08-11-2008, 05:25 PM
#142
well i want a car thats not gonna slam on the ground at every pothole im in the northeast and potholes are on almost every road so im destroying the axels
someone recommended stiffening the suspension and maybe raising it but i dont want it dramtically effecting performance i know its best to go as low as possible but that will destoy my car out here
someone recommended stiffening the suspension and maybe raising it but i dont want it dramtically effecting performance i know its best to go as low as possible but that will destoy my car out here
If so, then put on a set of Eibachs and new struts with good bumpstops, and the car will suit smashing into the ground.
When I had my old GXE, it had ~90k on the stock struts and every time I hit a major bump in the road, it would smash the crossmember (and oil pan!!!!!) into the pavement.
I was worried about lowering the car and making the problem worse, but the problem wasn't the ride height- it was the worn out struts and non-existant bumpstops on the 8 yr old strut boots.
replace the springs and struts with quality aftermarket stuff (Eibach & tokico or Koni) and you'll be amazed at the results.
08-12-2008, 11:59 PM
#144
okay well ill definitely go with KONI i hope it solves the the problem but i got a few questions before i go ahead with everything
should i go with jwt or nistune for the ECU do i really need the fine tuning nistune will offer or is it really not worth it?
do you recommend i advance the timing especially with the addition of the y-pipe?
which clutch set should i get from fidanza kevlar or ceramic?
is it a good idea to swap in the valves from the VE just by shaving the stems or is there more involved to it then that?
is there any other mod that i might wanna consider for the transmission?
also i swear to god ill start injectin methanol if nobody stops me
should i go with jwt or nistune for the ECU do i really need the fine tuning nistune will offer or is it really not worth it?
do you recommend i advance the timing especially with the addition of the y-pipe?
which clutch set should i get from fidanza kevlar or ceramic?
is it a good idea to swap in the valves from the VE just by shaving the stems or is there more involved to it then that?
is there any other mod that i might wanna consider for the transmission?
also i swear to god ill start injectin methanol if nobody stops me
08-21-2008, 09:03 PM
#145
alright well im gonna be signing off for awhile im goin to college next week and between a job, work-study, and maintianin a 3.5
so my scholarship doesn't get ripped up im not gonna have much time for the car but ill try to pop in every once in awhile with pics and hopefully ill be back next summer with a whole new list of questions but just so everybody knows the shopping list is done and heres whats on there: 5-speed swap, fidanza clutch flywheel and pressure plate, wsp kit, jwt cams springs and ECU, koni's, and new valves, plugs, and injectors.
but i wanted to thank everybody who helped out you guys have probably saved me thousands of dollars and tought me everything i need to know about 3rd gens. idk if theres anyway to pay u backbut if there is lemme know id be more then happy
oh yeah 3RD GEN RUULEZ
im goin to college next week and between a job, work-study, and maintianin a 3.5 so my scholarship doesn't get ripped up im not gonna have much time for the car but ill try to pop in every once in awhile with pics and hopefully ill be back next summer with a whole new list of questions but just so everybody knows the shopping list is done and heres whats on there: 5-speed swap, fidanza clutch flywheel and pressure plate, wsp kit, jwt cams springs and ECU, koni's, and new valves, plugs, and injectors.but i wanted to thank everybody who helped out you guys have probably saved me thousands of dollars and tought me everything i need to know about 3rd gens. idk if theres anyway to pay u back
but if there is lemme know id be more then happyoh yeah 3RD GEN RUULEZ
09-25-2008, 08:33 PM
#146
*UPDATE*
hey who remebers this project? alright so i havent been able to do everything mainly because im cheap but also im in college and this **** is expensive. but so far heres what was needed to be fix because of some magical ****in reason:
ALTERNATOR
MASTER CYLINDER
ABS SENSORS
BATTERY
CABLES
BOTH AXLES AGAIN
so i havent been that eager spend more money on the car but for some reason i just cant stay away...but i have got a few more things on the list along with a 2 month delay in the emissions testing the exhaust can wait and the shifter linkage bushing replacement worked perfectly i think the tranny has got a few more miles on her and the need to actually drive my car i probably wont be doing it for awhile hopefully thanksgiving maybe christmas but definetly by the spring.
one question though after all that work the glove box light stays on and so does the overhead light what the hell did i break?
hey who remebers this project? alright so i havent been able to do everything mainly because im cheap but also im in college and this **** is expensive. but so far heres what was needed to be fix because of some magical ****in reason:
ALTERNATOR
MASTER CYLINDER
ABS SENSORS
BATTERY
CABLES
BOTH AXLES AGAIN
so i havent been that eager spend more money on the car but for some reason i just cant stay away...but i have got a few more things on the list along with a 2 month delay in the emissions testing the exhaust can wait and the shifter linkage bushing replacement worked perfectly i think the tranny has got a few more miles on her and the need to actually drive my car i probably wont be doing it for awhile hopefully thanksgiving maybe christmas but definetly by the spring.
one question though after all that work the glove box light stays on and so does the overhead light what the hell did i break?
09-26-2008, 04:16 AM
#147
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C
Posts: 1,355
*UPDATE*
hey who remebers this project? alright so i havent been able to do everything mainly because im cheap but also im in college and this **** is expensive. but so far heres what was needed to be fix because of some magical ****in reason:
ALTERNATOR
MASTER CYLINDER
ABS SENSORS
BATTERY
CABLES
BOTH AXLES AGAIN
so i havent been that eager spend more money on the car but for some reason i just cant stay away...but i have got a few more things on the list along with a 2 month delay in the emissions testing the exhaust can wait and the shifter linkage bushing replacement worked perfectly i think the tranny has got a few more miles on her and the need to actually drive my car i probably wont be doing it for awhile hopefully thanksgiving maybe christmas but definetly by the spring.
one question though after all that work the glove box light stays on and so does the overhead light what the hell did i break?
hey who remebers this project? alright so i havent been able to do everything mainly because im cheap but also im in college and this **** is expensive. but so far heres what was needed to be fix because of some magical ****in reason:
ALTERNATOR
MASTER CYLINDER
ABS SENSORS
BATTERY
CABLES
BOTH AXLES AGAIN
so i havent been that eager spend more money on the car but for some reason i just cant stay away...but i have got a few more things on the list along with a 2 month delay in the emissions testing the exhaust can wait and the shifter linkage bushing replacement worked perfectly i think the tranny has got a few more miles on her and the need to actually drive my car i probably wont be doing it for awhile hopefully thanksgiving maybe christmas but definetly by the spring.
one question though after all that work the glove box light stays on and so does the overhead light what the hell did i break?
09-26-2008, 04:27 PM
#148
but thats not the only problem the overhead light isn't coming on either and its happened at the same time you know when you put the switch in the middle and it turns off when you close the door well mine isnt closing im woried i might have busted some kind of wire or fuse or something
09-26-2008, 05:52 PM
#149
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,807
Sleepy I'm glad to see you have seen the light. Trust me we've went over all the options for performance years ago. The VG was designed with FI in mind so it never was a good NA motor. However back in the 80s NISMO developed a race cylinder head just for competition. We realised that the maxima will never compete with sports cars ever! Now thats not saying you can't make it handle better than stock or make it faster in a straight line. You can mod it to out run a M3 off the line, but you can't out run it on a road course or winding road.
09-27-2008, 10:40 AM
#150
I just got back from emmission testing and i passed by a **** hair
idk how i did it but it passed im not worrying about that exhaust for awhile im focused on camshafts and koni's right now
again transmission can wait till it starts to see signs of wear again it runs like new again so since my monster 13:1 compression idea got trashed im not worried about additional power added to engine cuasing any real problems for it
and the ECU is still up in the air ill talk to jwt to see if its really important to do them at the same time as the cams but ill probably do them all at once either way
and the injectors and plugs are nearing their lifespan anyway so i might as well replace everything all at once rather than risking the minor problems with mismatched parts
all my electrical cables had to be replace so i might as well replace the distributor wires as well but im not so confident that performance wires will actually do anything
other than that i pretty much agree with NISMO the 3rd gen is a great car but its not a serious race car i did have high hopes but i basically just had to realize there are alot more important factors in race cars that have nothing to with engine
i will remain a 3rd genner for life i love this car i know so much about its specifics and i get reminded almost everyday why my car rulez and so many of these "brand new" cars suck ***
*sidenote*
i found 3 mint condition 0 mile 3rd gen VG's sitting in a toyota dealerships warehouse they want 5grand for them but that just shows me and hopefully all of u that the VG is timeless
idk how i did it but it passed im not worrying about that exhaust for awhile im focused on camshafts and koni's right nowagain transmission can wait till it starts to see signs of wear again it runs like new again so since my monster 13:1 compression idea got trashed im not worried about additional power added to engine cuasing any real problems for it
and the ECU is still up in the air ill talk to jwt to see if its really important to do them at the same time as the cams but ill probably do them all at once either way
and the injectors and plugs are nearing their lifespan anyway so i might as well replace everything all at once rather than risking the minor problems with mismatched parts
all my electrical cables had to be replace so i might as well replace the distributor wires as well but im not so confident that performance wires will actually do anything
other than that i pretty much agree with NISMO the 3rd gen is a great car but its not a serious race car i did have high hopes but i basically just had to realize there are alot more important factors in race cars that have nothing to with engine
i will remain a 3rd genner for life i love this car i know so much about its specifics and i get reminded almost everyday why my car rulez and so many of these "brand new" cars suck ***
*sidenote*
i found 3 mint condition 0 mile 3rd gen VG's sitting in a toyota dealerships warehouse they want 5grand for them but that just shows me and hopefully all of u that the VG is timeless
09-27-2008, 11:19 AM
#151
I just got back from emmission testing and i passed by a **** hair idk how i did it but it passed im not worrying about that exhaust for awhile im focused on camshafts and koni's right now
again transmission can wait till it starts to see signs of wear again it runs like new again so since my monster 13:1 compression idea got trashed im not worried about additional power added to engine cuasing any real problems for it
and the ECU is still up in the air ill talk to jwt to see if its really important to do them at the same time as the cams but ill probably do them all at once either way
and the injectors and plugs are nearing their lifespan anyway so i might as well replace everything all at once rather than risking the minor problems with mismatched parts
all my electrical cables had to be replace so i might as well replace the distributor wires as well but im not so confident that performance wires will actually do anything
other than that i pretty much agree with NISMO the 3rd gen is a great car but its not a serious race car i did have high hopes but i basically just had to realize there are alot more important factors in race cars that have nothing to with engine
i will remain a 3rd genner for life i love this car i know so much about its specifics and i get reminded almost everyday why my car rulez and so many of these "brand new" cars suck ***
*sidenote*
i found 3 mint condition 0 mile 3rd gen VG's sitting in a toyota dealerships warehouse they want 5grand for them but that just shows me and hopefully all of u that the VG is timeless
idk how i did it but it passed im not worrying about that exhaust for awhile im focused on camshafts and koni's right nowagain transmission can wait till it starts to see signs of wear again it runs like new again so since my monster 13:1 compression idea got trashed im not worried about additional power added to engine cuasing any real problems for it
and the ECU is still up in the air ill talk to jwt to see if its really important to do them at the same time as the cams but ill probably do them all at once either way
and the injectors and plugs are nearing their lifespan anyway so i might as well replace everything all at once rather than risking the minor problems with mismatched parts
all my electrical cables had to be replace so i might as well replace the distributor wires as well but im not so confident that performance wires will actually do anything
other than that i pretty much agree with NISMO the 3rd gen is a great car but its not a serious race car i did have high hopes but i basically just had to realize there are alot more important factors in race cars that have nothing to with engine
i will remain a 3rd genner for life i love this car i know so much about its specifics and i get reminded almost everyday why my car rulez and so many of these "brand new" cars suck ***
*sidenote*
i found 3 mint condition 0 mile 3rd gen VG's sitting in a toyota dealerships warehouse they want 5grand for them but that just shows me and hopefully all of u that the VG is timeless
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CorollaULEV
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
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08-09-2021 08:11 PM