Chrome? ugh..

 

lol...god dam photo shop...cant tell anything

well anyways its looks gud...

 

listen burhan. money isn't the issue with the spacers. running a too-thick spacer will do 3 things here:

1. put your tires under the fender itself, causing you to rub like I did, even on STOCK ride height
2. eat up a full INCH of your wheel studs, meaning you will have nothing left to thread your lugnuts onto
3. put undue stress on your rear wheelbearings, (do you know what happens when wheel bearings fail?)

it doesn't matter if you can get a 1000mm spacer for the same price as a 15mm spacer. 25mm on a hX7.5X45mm wheel is too much for a 3rd gen maxima. Goon ran 18x9x40 with 18mm spacer (compensated offset of 22mm) and he had to ADD material to his fenders to keep the tires from hitting them. Are you interested in major bodywork?

 

NO the reason I had to add was because I changed the rear caster with longer parallel links. I drove with stock links just fine... Now if you rolled your rear fenders (like I did) you wouldn't rub. There's a solid inch you can gain with a fender roller.

 

lol. my sister almost flipped a 1/2 van doing 60 when the wheel just rolled away. the bearing died, and instantly released the wheel, hub and all. luckily, my dad taught her how to drive, and she managed to get it under "control," considering she was sliding around on one corner of the van, brake fluid leaking everywhere (yes, the caliper went on the vacation, too), etc....

I cannot be sure about the severity of strain on the bearing in this case (too lazy to do the math, changing location of leverage, etc.), but just because they are giving you a deal on spacers, and maybe studs, will it be worth it in the long run? you made it sound to me that it was almost right, why go to extremes? if all you need is a few more mm, go with what would work, save you (and your buddies) a **** load of work on changing studs. but if you got 'em doing it, may as well change the bearings back there, at the same time.

 

i totally agree with ur that point, thicker the spacer the more stress will be on bearings...absolutely no doubt....but the idea we came up with is that they r going to put 25mm spacer and we gonna measure that how far is the wheel from the strut and how out its from the center line....then i m going to drive it for 4 todays maybe 5 days then i will see in these 5 days how the ride is and if it touches the fender or no....then we r going to take the wheel off and inspect the threads of studs and condition of the bearing if anything went wrong or no....then we r machining the spacer to make it thinner....probably around 20mm then that would be ok cuz i want the minimum stress on bearings...and as u r talking about that i will be left with less threads to bolt on so i think this the picture and bolt will be all way tight....and in any case to jus make it clear u r talking about only REAR rite? cuz i m only talkin about rear lol....heres the pic of hubcentric spacer.... ( i m thinking of selling the tires cuz u guys made me scared now lol specially BEN )

edit: or theres another way... i have a friend who is machinist he can machine them exactly to wat i will tell him....so if u guys really think that this isnt gonna work out ( experience ) then i wont even bother doing all that stuff and i will just have them machine to probably 18 mm...?

 

Yeap the G35 wheels very looks fantastic!!!!

 

ok... well those will solve the wheel stud issue. now you just have to worry about the rubbing issue and the bearing stress issue. running the tire close to the strut will reduce the stress on the bearing, cuz it would have less leverage that way. now, if you wanna pay US$100/axle to get your rear fenders rolled... that's another option. that way you can put them out to the fender and not worry about it, cuz there's no material sticking inward to rub against, like it is from the factory. just have to make sure the paint doesn't crack when it's being rolled.

 

arite... i finally installed them...first i sanded them with hand all 4 wheels and dont ask it was really hard to sand them all with hand then i washed them, cleaned them then painted them with white and left them in garage for 2 days with cover on.......next, i installed 25mm spacer on the rear and ntn on the front.....and i changed the tire size to 225/50/16 instead of 225/60/16 ( decreased the ratio, more wider and less height )...no fender rubbing with them at all and 25mm spacer was perfect on the rear...might machine the spacer in future to 22mm but doesnt really need it since its perfect.....here i took some pics with my CELL PHONE CAMERA i will take more inside side pics of the rims in the morning...

 

Nice...What ever happened on the supposed non vlsd transmission/axle issue? I'm still waiting for pics of the trans hole..

 

sounds like luck that they aren't rubbing in the back. tho, my rear struts are blown to hell and yours might not be. how close are they to hitting the fender if you have a friend sitting in your open trunk?

 

o ya greeny i remember that...thats the important part...but our instructor changed and the new instructor doesn't even let us work on our own cars...and thats the reason i couldn't even take the axle out and take the pics....i m waiting for him to change hes only teaching us engine mechanical for 5 weeks then our old instructor gonna come back and then i will be able to take pics....and at home i dont have tools available for do that job....i will take pics of the axle hole as soon he leaves....

 

alots of space cap...i have a heavy *** boom box of two 12 MTX woofers in the trunk all the time...no rubbing even if someone sitting on the back...

<<---------------- REAR

 

i know you have plenty of vertical clearance on non-collapsed struts. Mine sag a lil bit i think. this is what i have for vertical clearance (sorry best pic i have atm.. no glamour shots on the new 2k2 rims yet)



i want to see how much you have for if you ever lowered the car on eibachs... or lower. this istake one from this angle:

 

oh wow u dont have much clearance in the first pic...and in second pic its almost same as mine not sure...i will have to take pic tomorrow from an angle....wat size u r running? any spacers?

 

those were 7" 22mm natural offset (wheel only)
yours is 7.5" 20mm compensated offset (wheel - spacer)

yours should stick out a bit more than mine did.

 

ok, i been driving around on normal city speed limit ( 35mph) and didn't notice anything but today i went on the highway and i pushed the car up to 60mph and i felt pretty harsh vibration in my steering then i came down to normal speed around 35mph and vibration was gone....i came home and checked the clearance on the front between struts and the tires and there were pretty gud clearance between them and obviously on the rear i have plenty of clearance....

now my question is that if my struts were bad or bearing i would feel that vibration on low speed too?...but i only feel the vibration on high speed so COULD it be that tires r not balanced properly? the guy who did the balance probably didnt do it properly?

 

I didn't read back through the thread, but did the wheels already have tires on them?

If no, did you put used tires on the wheels, or new?

Did you check the wheels for any bends?(inner lip)

 

Do you have snow up there?

 

yes greeny wen i bought the rims i got tires with it but 2 of them were badly worn out and 2 of them were in really good condition like 80% tread left...then i changed the other two to almost brand new tires but they were used for a month only and had like 95% tread on them....tires r gud and i inspected the rims too i don see any bends on any of them....

no we dont have snow yet but its really cold around 46F in day time and around almost 33F at night....

 

are you sure all four tires are properly balanced?

 

that's really cold?
we are already below that here and we have snow.

 

lol
those are the temps here, and I still haven't been wearing a jacket.

 

I start wearing jackets at 60*

 

i was wondering wat happened this time in VANCOUVER it didnt snow yet and its almost December....in other cities like calgary or toronto its already snowing since 2 months....i guess its GLOBAL WARMING lol

 

...

about the rims... like what'shisface said, are they balanced

 

Originally Posted by burhan92SE
i was wondering wat happened this time in VANCOUVER it didnt snow yet and its almost December....in other cities like calgary or toronto its already snowing since 2 months....i guess its GLOBAL WARMING lol. except i dun rly believe dat CRAP lol who wud?

i didnt say that red part lol


and about the rims....i m gonna go to shop back and ask him if he balanced them properly and to show me again if they r balanced....

 

i added it, hoping that you were at least thinking it in your head...

anyhow, yea, get a verification that they are balanced right. i can tell you first hand that unbalanced wheels will make the whole car shake like a jackhammer. when i first put the SE sawblades on, one of them was 2.25oz out! that's 2 weights worth! and my god that thing was torture even at 45mph! got the front to rebalanced and it was better.. still had one bent rim tho.

 

i swear man it did snow last November..i aint joking.....

and thanks man...then it must be unbalanced tire and the guy who did the balance looked suspicious to me tho...

 

Make sure all 4 tires have been balanced, not just the two you had put on.

 

ok i have a question which maybe never been asked before.....

now i have changed my tires size and rims from OEM....how much air i suppose to have in tires now? in OEM tires specs it says 29psi front and 29psi rear..thats wat it says in gloves box sticker tho....so air pressure changes with tire size changed?

225/50/16....

 

first of all.... you DO realize your tires are .75 smaller than stock, right?

but uh... on a shorter-sidewall tire like that, you will need a little more air pressure in the tire. those super-incredibly-low profile tires (like 30-35 profile) sometimes run 50psi... but on a 50, i'd use something more like 35. Keep an eye on tire wear to see if it indicates underinflation or overinflation though.


and seriously... "a question that's never been asked before"... about tire pressure...

 

read the sidewall of the tire?

 

NO!

that just tells you the maximum pressure the tire can handle! The tire manufacturers have no idea what car you're putting it on....... they just make tires.

For me, I have the same tire size as a stock 17" 5.5gen, so i can just look in the 5th gen forum and copy what people over there are doing. Burhan might be able to go to a Z forum and copy what they are doing... assuming the Z runs a similar size tire and weighs a similar weight.

 

my tire says max psi 45, I run 34, I use it as a general guide, it doesn't mean you should fill it up to what it says. Figured some people use actual common sense now days'.

 

common sense
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SOME.... not all

but yeah, for an 16 or 17, i'd say mid 30s. But it's a matter of personal taste. Some people that corner harder like 40psi to reduce sidewall flex... but unless you corner rough alot, that's not necessary.

 

That 40 psi + is for better rotation during time attack or autocrossing not everyday daily driven street vehicles.... unless you like buying tires and paying citations!!

 

paying citations??? why would high tire pressure cause you to get a citation? or you mean getting pulled for driving aggressively just to 'get the most' out of your brick-hard tires? I actually had mine set at 40.... i guess i'll drop it to like 36 now.

 

Opposite opinion:

Some ppl just who want to get a fast pleasant ride from A -to- B ... thus use stock rims std rubber.

When the speedbumps come, yall ppl stop/block the traffic with all u skirts and rims... Watch out: I use kickdown instead and watch this "bow down worship act" from my mirrors...

= with stock shocks with stock wheels u can conveniently sail 50mph through speedbumps. With a 3gen that is [I am sorry am I, not all maximas can do that].