RIMS
Opposite opinion:
Some ppl just who want to get a fast pleasant ride from A -to- B ... thus use stock rims std rubber.
When the speedbumps come, yall ppl stop/block the traffic with all u skirts and rims... Watch out: I use kickdown instead and watch this "bow down worship act" from my mirrors...
= with stock shocks with stock wheels u can conveniently sail 50mph through speedbumps. With a 3gen that is [I am sorry am I, not all maximas can do that].
Some ppl just who want to get a fast pleasant ride from A -to- B ... thus use stock rims std rubber.
When the speedbumps come, yall ppl stop/block the traffic with all u skirts and rims... Watch out: I use kickdown instead and watch this "bow down worship act" from my mirrors...
= with stock shocks with stock wheels u can conveniently sail 50mph through speedbumps. With a 3gen that is [I am sorry am I, not all maximas can do that].
but wherein there are few speed bumps... shorter stiffer sidewalls > stockers
first of all.... you DO realize your tires are .75 smaller than stock, right?
but uh... on a shorter-sidewall tire like that, you will need a little more air pressure in the tire. those super-incredibly-low profile tires (like 30-35 profile) sometimes run 50psi... but on a 50, i'd use something more like 35. Keep an eye on tire wear to see if it indicates underinflation or overinflation though.
and seriously... "a question that's never been asked before"... about tire pressure...

but uh... on a shorter-sidewall tire like that, you will need a little more air pressure in the tire. those super-incredibly-low profile tires (like 30-35 profile) sometimes run 50psi... but on a 50, i'd use something more like 35. Keep an eye on tire wear to see if it indicates underinflation or overinflation though.
and seriously... "a question that's never been asked before"... about tire pressure...

pearl that's maximum pressure of the tire can handle along its maximum speed rating and temp rating......but u go with car's manufacturer ratings not the tires maximum pressure....
Last edited by burhan92SE; Dec 5, 2008 at 01:20 AM.
dude cumon ur car depends on ur that pressure so i think thats important...cuz i been running same pressure as stock tires and it was burning a lil bit more gas than usual so i thought its probably cuz of that but i think its cuz of the decreased aspect ratio and increased rim size ...m gonna go to 35psi front 32psi rear....
pearl that's maximum pressure of the tire can handle along its maximum speed rating and temp rating......but u go with car's manufacturer ratings not the tires maximum pressure....
pearl that's maximum pressure of the tire can handle along its maximum speed rating and temp rating......but u go with car's manufacturer ratings not the tires maximum pressure....
but i'm open to corrections on this. that's just my hypothesis of why you increase pressure for lower profile tires.
There are lots of issues on top of those. Like thread profile/type, rubber composition ('softness' etc), 'frame' rubber composition, mesh type & layer qty, height vs width and all these combined with drivin conditions =temperatures varying the flexibility etc.
The profile is not an issue when normal vanagon pressure has to be 3.8bar (55psi) while normal maxima is 2.0bar (29psi) [max 3.0bar (43psi] - load carrying capacity is the same on both vehicles, vanagon tires must have 6 layer mesh.
(Max=GoodYear 205/65x15, Vanagon 175x14)
Good education here would benefit all of us. Who will google the issue?
ok, i think everyone knows that heat can build up faster if u have low pressure in ur tires and as aspect ratio decreases side wall decreases as well..and u have to put a lil bit more pressure so they can absorb the bumps and less vibration goes to rims but over pressuring the tire and it wont absorb vibration and u r destroying ur rims....low profile tires have short and stiff sidewalls so they r tend to squish less than the bigger tires... infact, there r some tires that r so stiff that they can run with no air pressure in them lol they r called run flat tires...


Last edited by burhan92SE; Dec 5, 2008 at 02:48 AM.
what i think is these r the things that everyone should know before buying the tires...gud stuff to know
READING THE SIDEWALL:
P-metric is a metric tire-sizing system, for example: P215/65R15
P stands for passenger ( and if there is LT that mean its for LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS )
215 represents the width of the tire in millimeters
65 is aspect ratio; the ratio of height to width; this tire's height is 65% of it's width
If the aspect ratio is not listed, it is assumed to be the "standard aspect ratio" of 82%
R means radial.
B in place of the "R" means the tire is belted bias construction
D in place of the "R" means diagonal bias construction
15 is the diameter of the wheel in inches
XL/RF designates a, Extra Load or Reinforced tire
In not specified, Standard Load is assumed and will usually not be labelled as such
M+S designates a tire rated for mud and snow use
TIRE PRESSURE RATING:
Tire pressure rated on the tire is the maximum pressure that tire can handle not the manufacturers recommended pressure for the car so go with your manufacturers recommended pressure not the tire's.
SPEED RATING:
Tires are rated at the maximum, sustained speed they can safely operate at.

TRACTION:
A - indicates the best classification in accordance with certain requirements;
B - is a slightly lower classification;
C - indicates the worst (or lowest) value.
TEMPERATURE:
A - Stands High Temperature
B - Less than A
c - Stand Lowest Temperature Ratings.
LOAD INDEX:
The load index refers to the load carrying capacity of a tire, or how much weight a tire can support. For example, if a tire has a load index of 89, it can support 1,279 pounds (from chart, below) at maximum air pressure. Multiply that by four (4 x 1,279 = 5,116 pounds) to get your maximum load carrying capacity. More correctly, you should take into account the front to rear weight distribution of the vehicle. The load index and speed rating are usually listed in a single alpha-numeric code such as 82S.
Note: It is not recommended to install tires with a lower load index than what came on your car from the factory.
READING THE SIDEWALL:
P-metric is a metric tire-sizing system, for example: P215/65R15
P stands for passenger ( and if there is LT that mean its for LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS )
215 represents the width of the tire in millimeters
65 is aspect ratio; the ratio of height to width; this tire's height is 65% of it's width
If the aspect ratio is not listed, it is assumed to be the "standard aspect ratio" of 82%
R means radial.
B in place of the "R" means the tire is belted bias construction
D in place of the "R" means diagonal bias construction
15 is the diameter of the wheel in inches
XL/RF designates a, Extra Load or Reinforced tire
In not specified, Standard Load is assumed and will usually not be labelled as such
M+S designates a tire rated for mud and snow use
TIRE PRESSURE RATING:
Tire pressure rated on the tire is the maximum pressure that tire can handle not the manufacturers recommended pressure for the car so go with your manufacturers recommended pressure not the tire's.
SPEED RATING:
Tires are rated at the maximum, sustained speed they can safely operate at.

TRACTION:
A - indicates the best classification in accordance with certain requirements;
B - is a slightly lower classification;
C - indicates the worst (or lowest) value.
TEMPERATURE:
A - Stands High Temperature
B - Less than A
c - Stand Lowest Temperature Ratings.
LOAD INDEX:
The load index refers to the load carrying capacity of a tire, or how much weight a tire can support. For example, if a tire has a load index of 89, it can support 1,279 pounds (from chart, below) at maximum air pressure. Multiply that by four (4 x 1,279 = 5,116 pounds) to get your maximum load carrying capacity. More correctly, you should take into account the front to rear weight distribution of the vehicle. The load index and speed rating are usually listed in a single alpha-numeric code such as 82S.
Note: It is not recommended to install tires with a lower load index than what came on your car from the factory.
Last edited by burhan92SE; Dec 5, 2008 at 03:32 AM.
Opposite opinion:
Some ppl just who want to get a fast pleasant ride from A -to- B ... thus use stock rims std rubber.
When the speedbumps come, yall ppl stop/block the traffic with all u skirts and rims... Watch out: I use kickdown instead and watch this "bow down worship act" from my mirrors...
= with stock shocks with stock wheels u can conveniently sail 50mph through speedbumps. With a 3gen that is [I am sorry am I, not all maximas can do that].
Some ppl just who want to get a fast pleasant ride from A -to- B ... thus use stock rims std rubber.
When the speedbumps come, yall ppl stop/block the traffic with all u skirts and rims... Watch out: I use kickdown instead and watch this "bow down worship act" from my mirrors...
= with stock shocks with stock wheels u can conveniently sail 50mph through speedbumps. With a 3gen that is [I am sorry am I, not all maximas can do that].
Opposite opinion:
Some ppl just who want to get a fast pleasant ride from A -to- B ... thus use stock rims std rubber.
When the speedbumps come, yall ppl stop/block the traffic with all u skirts and rims... Watch out: I use kickdown instead and watch this "bow down worship act" from my mirrors...
= with stock shocks with stock wheels u can conveniently sail 50mph through speedbumps. With a 3gen that is [I am sorry am I, not all maximas can do that].
Some ppl just who want to get a fast pleasant ride from A -to- B ... thus use stock rims std rubber.
When the speedbumps come, yall ppl stop/block the traffic with all u skirts and rims... Watch out: I use kickdown instead and watch this "bow down worship act" from my mirrors...
= with stock shocks with stock wheels u can conveniently sail 50mph through speedbumps. With a 3gen that is [I am sorry am I, not all maximas can do that].
thankfully the red van has enough clearance where it doesn't hit.
+1, You can pretty much tell by looking at them and feeling them as you are filling once you are past the 29psi point, from there on up is most likely preference to ride. (Depending on the size of tire/rim setup) But most of this stuff doesn't have to be this complex.
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4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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