this guy was selling me his 1991 gxe for $800 and i told him $500 and after few yes and no he was convinced for $500...so here u go ....driver side window doesnt go up which i will fix it....it has 205k on it, sonar suspension, digital speedo meter, auto climate,automatic, like that rare digital package and it is BROUGHAM EDITION....and theres sometimes warining light comes up and sometimes doesnt....is it worth buying?

 

if the engine's fine without any misses or cappry idle and the trans shifts fine; go for it! thats if you need another max. Cant tell from the pics, does it have any rust?

Oh and make sure the struts are good

 

I'm a firm believer that if the car will run, its worth at least 1k. I mean, if you sold it for parts, I'm sure you could get more than the $500 for it....

I mean hell, I'd be willing to buy some of the parts out of it. (digital speedometer, passenger seat if powered... and prolly some other stuff i cant think of.)

 

I say go for it! I have the same edition, but it's not called Brougham in the US.

 

dyam the car i m gonna buy is exactly the same color as urs....rims looks sick....

 

its digital king yoo...everything DIGITAL from speedo meter to the trunk

 

eh.. thanks. the rims were ok. i got them cheap so i decided to go ahead. looking for another set. want something with a deep dish look. yeah, i noticed they were the same colors also. burgunday inside and out.

 

yep inside outside same color

 

LMAO, apparently you never tried parting out a maxima.

 

Sheesh! - Do I hate all you people! ........................ I can just about only buy a radiator or a MAF or a set of tires for my VG locally for $500.

3rd gens in very good condition can fetch up to probably $5000+ here.

 

unless you have proof that the timing belt was done, I would walk away

 

go for it dude... I paid freaking $3000 for my GXE in 2006 and it's a straight-up base model. You're gonna want to nab some SE springs (easier to swap in whole strut if you haven't done spring compression before), front swaybar, etc. if you don't have rear discs already you can do that swap at the same time as the strut swap. if you DO have rear discs, then try and get the rear discs off a 89-90, that way you can upgrade to Z31 rear discs by putting your brake hardware onto the hub adapter on the 89-90 strut. it'll look something like this on stock GXE rims:

 

anyone who says this car isnt worth 500 bucks is retarded that is a great find its almost impossible to find a 3rd gen with all those feautures and no rust if the engine had 300k id still buy it for the same price your probably never gonna find one like that again youve basically got the perfect third gen base model in my opinion whether you start with a 5-speed swap or strut work or even go as far as a turbo there will never be a better 3rd gen too do it on personally id swap everything out of your old car and put it that one even the engine then swap in a VE tranny, VE struts and disc brakes, and then you gotta a 3rd gen the way it was supposed to be made

 

meh, depends on your mechanical aptitude. mine was done for $350 parts AND labor. now that i've seen it done, I can do it myself for cheaper.

 

I don't like the risk of paying for it, starting it up and BAM! the belt breaks. all your mechanical aptitude won't save you the cost of replacing the motor.
I've found dozens of VG 3rd gens for $500. I won't buy one unless they show me proof that the timing belt was done.

 

well yeah, i understand that. Hell it could break the second you leave the dude's driveway... odds are against it, so I figure to replace it straight away (like the motor i'm putting in mine is, of course, getting a new belt) and my engine has a new-ish belt in it (20k on it) so my friend who is receiving my engine will not have to worry about it.

 

I hear ya. My cousin never replaced the timing belt the entire time she owned the car, but she never really went anywhere. Just last year, the car had 120,XXX miles on the clock. Since I've owned it, it now has 172,XXX miles on the clock. I replaced the timing belt and components and water pump / thermostat myself. When I removed the original belt, I found that it wasn't even worn out. Could have gone longer on it, but I didn't trust it. If you do buy a VG, it's just smart to go ahead and have the T-Belt replaced to avoid blowing a good engine.

 

even if it doesn't look worn out it could still be... someone had one snap that didn't look worn but it was.

 

yeah but the chances of the belt snapping immedietly are slim the chances of it snapping immediately when theres no signs of wear or damage are even less id inspect the belt make sure its not completely trashed and drive to a mechanic to get it replaced if you know how to yourself then drive it home but you do wanna get it replaced anyway because even if it doesn't snap right away it eventually will and unless he has records on it you wont know when it was last replaced

also cant really tell if theres rust or not wheel well pics please

 

does that include mine? it got replaced and I got ALL documentation

 

I'd give you $500 for yours

 

well i m going to the guys house rightnow to buy it....and will see if there is any problems....and ya i have a VE already and wen i get this VG i want it to STAY like A VG...like u know luxurious VG,comfortable ride....not like a sporty VE and bumpy ride....lol i wanna own totally two different cars, dont wanna mix them up to eachother....and ya it got sonar suspension...would that make any difference? cuz it has sport and comfort suspension adjustments....AND sport and comfort transmission shifting control....(duh everyone have this)

 

haven't seen any sonar suspension replacement parts, and I know they wear out, just like any other strut.

 

i wouldn't until the strut tower was welded back onto the frame...

if you ever need to replace the struts, either you pay hella expensive price for new SONAR-type struts or you ditch the sonar... just to let you know.

well yea odds are against it snapping the second you get it home. (odds were also against my speedometer crapping out the second i pulled off the lot with the car too..... didn't stop it from happening tho). but although they do show signs of wear like normal belts i've heard also that a glazed shiny backside indicates that the belt is becoming brittle, and a dull grippy backside indicates it's still fairly new. if the lettering is gone then the belt's integrity isn't far behind.

 

must be expensive....