cardana24

iTrader: (81)

As some of you may know I recently bought a third gen. The body and interior or super clean but I have an engine problem....like will not crank engine problem. The previous owner told me he thought a head gasket was blown, the car got hot and it died, then it would not start after dieing. Last night I tried to start the car for the first time....It will not start. It just cranks and does not pretend to try and start...so I think the previous owner may be right. Tonight I am going to do a compression check to see what I find but it looks like it will be pointing to a head gasket repair or engine replacement. So that leads me to my question about the VE30's, what is the difference between the US spec model and the Jspec engine. Is it worth going the jspec route or should I just look for another us spec VE30? Thanks for any help.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Good thread to read...

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...dm-engine.html

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I read some of that...the first and last page. Jeff got a dirty engine is what I took from it. What about the specs? I am trying to figure if there is any way to justify a higher priced engine just because it was sold in the jap market.

The engine that I have seems to be well cared for other than a blown head gasket. Every thing is nice a clean from the outside. I am wondering if I should possibly just try to repair the engine I have. What could possibly be damaged other than the heads if the engine was run hot? Oh, I also get a metallic clanking from the passenger side top of the engine when I am turning the engine over...is this the VTC's? I have never had a third gen so I am not familiar with the sound.

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...auto-dies.html

If you think its the VTC affecting it... Similar story... Driving normally and dies.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I'm not very familiar with these cars yet, so I am not sure if that is the case. I do know that when you pour water in the radiator it will run out above the crank pulley, which I think is where the water pump is...so it getting hot and blowing something seems like I likley story.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

hmmm..Sounds like either the timing chain/vtc end caps may have broken.

Pull the intake manifold off, then pull the valve covers. inspect the timing chain and vtc assemblies for obvious damage. posting pics of these areas will help.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I'll try to get to that tonight. I'll take some pics.

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

The water pump is above the pulley.

Well... thats why I posted that link. Arron had his VTC grenade in his car. Take a look under the valve cover. He has pics in his thread to show you what your looking for. Hope all is well.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

there is no difference between the JDM VE and any other VE when it comes to the engine itself. there is some differences on sensors that you will need to swap over.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

so why would anyone buy a more expensive JDM VE? Lower miles?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

precisely. engines in japan are only allowed to be used for like 50k miles or something... then they pull them and the engine is replaced with a new one. that's why we get them so abundantly.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

errr...actually..
in Japan people get charge more if they drive an older car. so a lot of owners will buy cars drive them with little maintenance and then once it hits a certain age they dump them and get new ones. The process is called Shaken.

Shaken is a compulsory safety inspection, which cars in Japan have to undergo every two years, except new cars, for which the first inspection is not due until three years after purchase. The shaken typically costs between 100,000 and 200,000 yen, and besides the actual inspection includes a weight tax (typically 8,000 to 50,000 yen) and a mandatory insurance (about 30,000 yen).

highly doubt they are doing engine swaps...it's more like car swaps.

and yes...Japan is only so big so they generally have lower miles on them and considering the short time span of ownership they won't be pushing too many miles.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

oh ok. i heard the engines were pulled at a certain mileage and the car was junked or they got a new motor. but then again i probably heard that from the likes of alex_v or someone of his caliber so it's probably about as true as the Paul Is Dead rumors...

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

i edited my post to give you more information. just in case people ask you.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

oh so they basically neglect the car so it's cheap to operate, and put that money aside for their next car? if so then that's a crying shame... another few months and my car will outclass and outperform my mom's 1999 camry in every way...... because i've spent money maintaining it. Total cost: $8000+ for her car, and about $7000 for mine, to date. That being the cost of the car itself, plus all money both of us have spent on parts and labor and fluids (minus gas) from the day I got my car. Of course that's all gonna go down the drain when her 150k-used timing belt snaps and her engine dies.... but that's what we're here for i guess... same reason why cardana is putting another engine in this car just like I did to mine... cuz really until my (or his) car is rusted through or the frame is bent (knock on wood!) then there's no sense whatsoever in me getting another used car with more problems, or a cheap new car that i'll hate, or a more expensive (maxima-like) new car that I can't afford.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

having a car there is a luxury item. it's not the case here in the US, different mentality.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I would never buy an engine sight unseen, never.

I prefer to see it still in the car, or at least see the car it was in and it's odometer before buying it. so no jDm typE motors for me yO?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

1) free fix
2) even if you see the car and the mileage.... you could have seen the mileage of a car like mine. my car read 143k miles when i got it. but the engine was not matched to the car so who knows what mileage the replacement motor had?

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I would check compression really quick on one of the cylinders. If you get nothing, then remove the valve cover to see what the VTC and upper chain looks like. It's likely it's out of time b/c of a damaged chain or sprocket. I know all too much about this unfortunately.

When the engine turns over, you shouldn't hear any kind of clanking going on.

Welcome to the 3rd gen family!

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah, that's what I'm scared of with this engine purchase I'm about to make at a local salvage yard. But, I will be able to see the engine first along with the vehicle it was in. I will also get the VIN and run a check on it to make sure the mileage they are telling me sounds legit.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

I had to read through a lot of that again, since it has been so long! Four years now.

My car is still running great (knock on wood). The VTCs clack sometimes, but it still pulls very hard and I don't drive it a lot, but I feel it is reliable and I take it on 400 and 500 mile trips several times a year.

As for the OP, the only things that need to be replaced are the cam sensor and the coolant temp sensor. The IACV is different, too. I am not sure if that is JDM different or AT vs. MT different. Mine has the original one back on it.

You should definitely do some other work if you plan on keeping the car. Water pump, exhaust manifold studs are much, much easier to replace with the engine out of the car. The front and rear main seals should be replaced, along with belts, gaskets and hoses.

There is another thread in the stickies done by keelan (spipedong90) that has more detail about the actual JDM swap, what he did, problems he had, etc.

hadman

iTrader: (21)

AT vs. MT is different.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

Thanks for the info. guys. I did not have time to work on the car last night. I'll be sure to update the thread when I do.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I have not done much in the past few days since I have been working on my jeep, but I did pull the front valve cover off and look at things. Everything looked fine to me, the VTC cap was not broken, and the timing chain seemed to be tight. But I did have chance to check the compression on one of the cylinders before my battery died....30 psi ummmm....I think the guy was right when he told me he thinks the head gasket/s blew. I went to check another cylinder and turned the key over and the engine rotated several times and the battery died...when I looked at the gauge it was reading 0 so what ever that is worth. Bottom line is it sounds like I need a new engine. I'm in VA if anyone has a hook up and I am willing to drive a little ways for a good engine.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if the heads aren't warped, you can just replace the headgaskets.... i don't know how hard it is on a VE, but I did it on a mazda F2 engine with some guidance from the Probe community's equivalent of MaxMaxima91/Matt93se/Aaron92se/Goon9 all rolled into one.. (i can provide some links so his stuff if you're curious).

point is you don't HAVE to get a new engine.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah. Which cylinders tested 0psi? Which were 30psi?

It definitely sounds like the engine is done. It's not really worth rebuilding either. An R&R with a good running engine would probably be your best bet.

I have a spare VE in my parts car. But it has 225K miles on it. I would recommend you finding a lower mileage engine from a salvage yard that has been compression tested before it was pulled. Also, most yards give a 90 day warranty, but some will do 6 month warranties for free. And most will do a 1 year warranty for a fee.

Time for you to hit up www.car-part.com and search for the nearest junkyards.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I assume that the odd cylinders are across the front so if it is 5-3-1 (when looking into the engine bay from the front of the car) I tested the two furthest on the right. So cylinder 1 was 30, and 3 was 0 but the engine only turned over a time or two on that one.

The engine I have only has about 120k, and it looks very clean. The problem with doing the head gaskets is that I have never done that on a DHC engine. I am guessing all of the timing stuff whould be a pain in the rear to re set.

If anyone has a write up on changing the head gaskets on one of these engines I would love to see it, but I still think I am going to look for another engine.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Odd. Even with a blown hg and one cylinder down, it should still start. got gas and sparks?

As far as JDM engines, I'd still get one. But you should inspect it as best you can before you buy. My bro and I always pull a valve cover to see if it's a sludge monster or not.

It's either that or get some domestic VE that you know has 150,000+ on it.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

If you standing front of the engine bay, the head closest to you (LH) would be the 2 - 4 - 6 cylinders counting from left to right. So the one on the far right is #6.

The head nearest the firewall (RH), is 1 - 3 - 5.

I would test compression one more time but with a good battery, jumpbox, or jumper cables. Then go from there.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I will test it again, I just did not have much time to work on it the other night. I'll put a battery in it and test all of the cylinders.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

+1 My old parts car VE had a blown h/g but still purred like a kitten..



Also, cardana..just a FYI: the rear vtc cap is usually the one that breaks, why i don't know so for a complete confirmation of why the engine has died, pull the intake manifold/rear valve cover and check the rear vtc assembly for damage.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

will do. Just need some extra time.

Also where are you guys getting your jap engines? I have looked online a little bit and it seems $850 shipped is about a cheap as they go when buying one through a company. Has anyone here used a place called "Tiger Auto Parts"? They have one listed for 650+203 for shipping and they say it only have 25-35k on it and it comes with a 90 day warranty.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

how hard is it to get all of the timing stuff back in line once the heads are put back on? Would I need to take the cams out? I am wondering if I should just try to repair this engine, but I don't want the effort to be in vain.

If I choose to repair this engine over getting a new one, it needs head gaskets and a water pump at the least. So I would pull the engine to do these repairs anyway.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Again, you need to figure out what is causing you to have a no start condition and low compression on the cylinders before determining what needs to be done to the engine. If it's simply a blown h/g(which i doubt) then cam removal/engine removal wouldn't be necessary, but if it's jumped time due to a broken vtc cap, then you have bent valves/possible cracked pistons/etc., pretty much a 500lb paper weight.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

It's a royal pain in the azz to take off the chains and realign them. The upper front covers aren't tooo bad but if you drop the chain down there. You now get to take off the whole front cover.

I seriously doubt the t-chains are out of time. I supposed you could put it to TDC on the compression stroke and pop the front valve cover and see if that side is lined up okay.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

yeah, that's what I was thinking. I think it would be easier just to get a new engine. Repairing this engine could possibly be cheaper but there would be a lot more variables involved.