what this could be?
#1
what this could be?
ok i have this weird problem in my VE....wen i put the car in D it shakes the whole car as in the video i m holding the camera and wen i put the car in D my camera shakes too as i m holding it....i mean i have my foot on the brake pedal and i put the car in D and it jus shakes the whole car and then its all normal wen i m driving it.....sorry but i didnt know how to explain this or show this cuz it have to be a video....heres the videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umPHH1-wW5Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umPHH1-wW5Q
#2
Video i kinda useless, but shaking is generally caused by an imbalance in the output of power between the cylinders. Check these things and you will find the problem among them: injectors, coils, compression, engine mounts.
#3
He's exactly right. Just check the injectors, coils, compression, and engine mounts. You will certainly find the problem somewhere there.
#4
Don't forget cleaning out the t/b and iacv thoroughly with throttle body cleaner( not carb cleaner) Be sure to buy a new iacv gasket before you remove the iacv, they are about $4 from the dealer
Cleaning these two items may solve your problem without blindly replacing expensive parts first.
Cleaning these two items may solve your problem without blindly replacing expensive parts first.
#5
It would also be a good idea to check all your vacuum hoses, a few cracked or broken hoses could effect idle when put in gear.
Hell, as cheap as vacuum hose is ( about $1 per foot) i would just buy about 10 ft of it and just replace all of them.
Hell, as cheap as vacuum hose is ( about $1 per foot) i would just buy about 10 ft of it and just replace all of them.
#6
Is your car fine when driving around? Does it accelerate normally without any kind of miss or hesitation? It is unlikely that it will be the injectors or coils if the car drives completely normal. Definitely clean out the IAC and TB like Wayne suggested, check vacuum lines, and clean out all the electrical connectors you can find with a fine wire brush and some electrical contact cleaner (MAF, ECTS, IAC, TPS, etc.)
#9
#11
#13
I had the same problem. Check to see which cylinder has a problem by putting the car on and in drive then disconnect the cables from each coil. They should all have an effect on the car except for the one that has the problem. The check the sparkplug and then if nothing check the injector with the ohms meter to see if it gets a reading. I had a messed up injector fixed it and now there is no shacking.
#14
I had the same problem. Check to see which cylinder has a problem by putting the car on and in drive then disconnect the cables from each coil. They should all have an effect on the car except for the one that has the problem. The check the sparkplug and then if nothing check the injector with the ohms meter to see if it gets a reading. I had a messed up injector fixed it and now there is no shacking.
can someone point me to where to download 4th gen FSM?...
#15
can someone point me to where to download 4th gen FSM?...
Last edited by Greeny; 10-19-2008 at 06:19 PM.
#16
and i wanted to download the 4th gen fsm cuz if i have the the wrong tranny from 4th gen ( as cap stated ) then the Transmission self diagnose from 4th gen should work on my VE cuz 3rd gen TRANNY self diagnose doesnt work on my tranny....so i might as well give it a try....?
edit : and ya one more thing wen my car shifts from 1st to 2nd gear it kicks...and shakes the whole car..
Last edited by burhan92SE; 10-19-2008 at 07:38 PM.
#17
Clean both items and report back..
and i wanted to download the 4th gen fsm cuz if i have the the wrong tranny from 4th gen ( as cap stated ) then the Transmission self diagnose from 4th gen should work on my VE cuz 3rd gen TRANNY self diagnose doesnt work on my tranny....so i might as well give it a try....?
did you replace the axle yourself?(the one that is sticking out of the trans a little bit)
Last edited by Greeny; 10-19-2008 at 07:38 PM.
#18
dats my biggest concern why i m having all these problems....that LSD axle is still dere and sticks a lil out...and i cant figure it out which axle to put there....cuz i have that shinny PIN in my tranny and on the other hand as i heared that VE cant have dat cuz they r all VLSD...then how come mine have that? and which axle to put there? VG's? and my tranny code ends with V
#19
i didn't clean the TB and iacv yet but i checked all my vacuum lines and they r all gud....
and i wanted to download the 4th gen fsm cuz if i have the the wrong tranny from 4th gen ( as cap stated ) then the Transmission self diagnose from 4th gen should work on my VE cuz 3rd gen TRANNY self diagnose doesnt work on my tranny....so i might as well give it a try....?
edit : and ya one more thing wen my car shifts from 1st to 2nd gear it kicks...and shakes the whole car..
and i wanted to download the 4th gen fsm cuz if i have the the wrong tranny from 4th gen ( as cap stated ) then the Transmission self diagnose from 4th gen should work on my VE cuz 3rd gen TRANNY self diagnose doesnt work on my tranny....so i might as well give it a try....?
edit : and ya one more thing wen my car shifts from 1st to 2nd gear it kicks...and shakes the whole car..
to greeny: i've seen some pictures of his tranny and stuff and he does NOT have VLSD. confirmed by hands-on knowledge of my own trannies, as well as FSM and Nissan FAST parts diagrams.
#20
you don't have an actual 4th gen tranny, per-se... you have the equivalent of it. so the diagnostics will still be for the 3rd gen tranny.
to greeny: i've seen some pictures of his tranny and stuff and he does NOT have VLSD. confirmed by hands-on knowledge of my own trannies, as well as FSM and Nissan FAST parts diagrams.
to greeny: i've seen some pictures of his tranny and stuff and he does NOT have VLSD. confirmed by hands-on knowledge of my own trannies, as well as FSM and Nissan FAST parts diagrams.
Last edited by burhan92SE; 10-19-2008 at 07:59 PM.
#21
well it all depends how the car is behaving. if you are revving the **** out of it and the car isn't going... you have a slipping tranny. if the tachometer never makes obvious motions like shifting gears then you may be stuck in failsafe (reverse, neutral, and 3rd gear only). or if it does look like it's shifting and you are just down on power then that's the fuel/engine you need to look at
#23
i cleaned my TB and IACV and it didnt help me fixing this thing but ya it helped alot wen i push the accelerator and car jus goes....could it be dropping resister? ( sorry to repeat again but i have a feeling dat this is dropping resister) where can i get this resister? any electrical shop? and wat should i say to them... i need 13 ohms dropping resister or there is something else to fix this.....
#24
i cleaned my TB and IACV and it didnt help me fixing this thing but ya it helped alot wen i push the accelerator and car jus goes....could it be dropping resister? ( sorry to repeat again but i have a feeling dat this is dropping resister) where can i get this resister? any electrical shop? and wat should i say to them... i need 13 ohms dropping resister or there is something else to fix this.....
#25
i cleaned my TB and IACV and it didnt help me fixing this thing but ya it helped alot wen i push the accelerator and car jus goes....could it be dropping resister? ( sorry to repeat again but i have a feeling dat this is dropping resister) where can i get this resister? any electrical shop? and wat should i say to them... i need 13 ohms dropping resister or there is something else to fix this.....
I can't see how it could at all be related to idle or rough acceleration. Why not just unplug it completely and see how the car reacts?
#26
I seriously doubt it has anything to do with your drop resistor. It just means you'll have 100% line pressure between shifts. So if you have crap motor/transmission mounts your Park to Drive shift will "THUMP" into gear, and 1st-4th gears will be very harsh if you aren't at wide open throttle.
I can't see how it could at all be related to idle or rough acceleration. Why not just unplug it completely and see how the car reacts?
I can't see how it could at all be related to idle or rough acceleration. Why not just unplug it completely and see how the car reacts?
let burhan think it's the drop resistor
find part
sell part
?????
profit
#28
I seriously doubt it has anything to do with your drop resistor. It just means you'll have 100% line pressure between shifts. So if you have crap motor/transmission mounts your Park to Drive shift will "THUMP" into gear, and 1st-4th gears will be very harsh if you aren't at wide open throttle.
I can't see how it could at all be related to idle or rough acceleration. Why not just unplug it completely and see how the car reacts?
I can't see how it could at all be related to idle or rough acceleration. Why not just unplug it completely and see how the car reacts?
#29
ya i unplugged my dropping resistor harness then turned the engine off for 2 mines and started again...and i put it in D while foot on the brake and WOW it jus smashes like engine jus gonna come outtta da car....it kickes more harder than wat i have ritenow.....then i plugged it back and it does it but not THAT HARD...so i guess i should change that resistor....as i have seen it. it jus looks like some piece of metal with ALOT OF RUST ON IT....and its giving me 13 ohms
#30
#31
hey thanks man
seriously tho i'm thinking mounts on this one...
BURHAN:
crawl under your car and look at your mounts. are they totally collapsed? any hairline cracks/microcracks? any tearing? any burns? if the answer is yes, then go to autozone and get replacement mounts. cheaper than $90 each... motor mounts make WAY more difference in how a car drives than most people will believe... moreso on manual cuz you don't have the softness of the torque converter like you do on the auto... but like me, my car just pisses me off constnaly cuz the entire driveline clunks every time i get on or off the gas.
seriously tho i'm thinking mounts on this one...
BURHAN:
crawl under your car and look at your mounts. are they totally collapsed? any hairline cracks/microcracks? any tearing? any burns? if the answer is yes, then go to autozone and get replacement mounts. cheaper than $90 each... motor mounts make WAY more difference in how a car drives than most people will believe... moreso on manual cuz you don't have the softness of the torque converter like you do on the auto... but like me, my car just pisses me off constnaly cuz the entire driveline clunks every time i get on or off the gas.
#33
wow i guess its the experience which talks....my rear engine right side mount's bushing is worn out...( right side while standing front of the car )....i m gonna have change them...dyam that mount is in really tight location under the brake booster...cant even get my ratchets in there...
#34
wow i guess its the experience which talks....my rear engine right side mount's bushing is worn out...( right side while standing front of the car )....i m gonna have change them...dyam that mount is in really tight location under the brake booster...cant even get my ratchets in there...
#35
wow i guess its the experience which talks....my rear engine right side mount's bushing is worn out...( right side while standing front of the car )....i m gonna have change them...dyam that mount is in really tight location under the brake booster...cant even get my ratchets in there...
#36
That is the transmission mount, i would bet your rear engine mount is just as bad if not worse, and the main cause of alot of your issues. engine and tranny mounts are about the most looked over maintenance item on these cars, but cause more trouble with the running of the car then most people know.
#37