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Whats the best way to drive an old A/T

Old 10-25-2008, 11:45 PM
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Whats the best way to drive an old A/T

I have an old VGauto transmission just about to start giving me problems im pretty sure it has original auto transmission fluid at 147k so i cant do any fluid changes or flushes cuz nobody will gimme a warranty. so i am about to do the VE5speed swap but i wanna delay that project as much as i can. whats the best way to drive it the meant time to help prolong the life of the transmission?

should i drive with the tranny switch on power, comfort, or in between?

should i drive with car on overdrive?

what rpm should i rev the engine to?

any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:10 AM
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look at the color of the trans fluid first.
Bright Red is good
the darker it gets, the worse it is.

leave the overdrive on
leave it in power
let the trans shift normally.
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
I have an old VGauto ...
old VGauto transmission <---> nobody will gimme a warranty

eh? The World Is Cruel...

Get Oil manufacturers warranty = change the oil now by yourself...
how? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:44 PM
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i think thats a suspension option.. for comfort/power not tranny
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
old VGauto transmission <---> nobody will gimme a warranty

eh? The World Is Cruel...

Get Oil manufacturers warranty = change the oil now by yourself...
how? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
your gonna have to explain how a "Oil manufacturers warranty" works cuz ill do it myself if the oil company will pay for it when it breaks its just that mechanics all say its gonna fall apart the second i flush it so they wont touch it.
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
look at the color of the trans fluid first.
Bright Red is good
the darker it gets, the worse it is.

leave the overdrive on
leave it in power
let the trans shift normally.
thanx i had it in power with overdrive off and since peak hp was at 5200 ive been tryin to rev it there each time
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by torontomaxi
i think thats a suspension option.. for comfort/power not tranny
It is not for suspension. It controls the shifting of the transmission.
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
your gonna have to explain how a "Oil manufacturers warranty" works cuz ill do it myself if the oil company will pay for it when it breaks its just that mechanics all say its gonna fall apart the second i flush it so they wont touch it.
No transmission fluid manufacturer is going to warranty your transmission, period.

Change/drain {NOT FLUSH!!} the fluid in your transmission, there are writeups all over in this forum on how to do it.{look at the last few pages of the transmission maintenance thread a few threads down}

If you don't change the fluid soon, i will guaranty you will be moving your 5 speed swap up in your work plans. and no, changing the fluid will not make it go out faster, pure bs. If it's already slipping, then it's probably too late for a fluid change to help. If it's staying in second gear at takeoff, or hanging in a gear too long, then a fluid change may prolong the life of the trans somewhat, but again, no guaranties are to be had from fluid changes.
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Old 10-26-2008, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
No transmission fluid manufacturer is going to warranty your transmission, period.

Change/drain {NOT FLUSH!!} the fluid in your transmission, there are writeups all over in this forum on how to do it.{look at the last few pages of the transmission maintenance thread a few threads down}

If you don't change the fluid soon, i will guaranty you will be moving your 5 speed swap up in your work plans. and no, changing the fluid will not make it go out faster, pure bs. If it's already slipping, then it's probably too late for a fluid change to help. If it's staying in second gear at takeoff, or hanging in a gear too long, then a fluid change may prolong the life of the trans somewhat, but again, no guaranties are to be had from fluid changes.
Okay thats what i figured about the warranty but u say that there is no way a drain could hurt the transmission i have had 3 mechanics say the opposite and i didn't think it was possible for a mechanic to turn down a job unless he was 105% sure he shouldn't do it
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
Okay thats what i figured about the warranty but u say that there is no way a drain could hurt the transmission i have had 3 mechanics say the opposite and i didn't think it was possible for a mechanic to turn down a job unless he was 105% sure he shouldn't do it
They(the mechanics) said a transmission flush will hurt your trans right? This is very possible, again, look to the tranny preventative maintenance thread for transmission flush explanations/warnings.

Simply draining/refilling the transmission is not going to damage the transmission, leaving old/original fluid in there will, for sure.
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
They(the mechanics) said a transmission flush will hurt your trans right? This is very possible, again, look to the tranny preventative maintenance thread for transmission flush explanations/warnings.

Simply draining/refilling the transmission is not going to damage the transmission, leaving old/original fluid in there will, for sure.
okay just read the thread and basically what i get is that that i should get 9quarts of valvoline max life drain the fluid *not flush* and about 3 quarts will come out repeat this process evry week till all 9 quarts are used

my question is about how many miles are in a week and does it matter how exact i am can i just drain and refill with 3 quarts or should i measure it exaclty?
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:56 PM
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Forgetting rumors and such ................
I have an old VGauto transmission just about to start giving me problems
On exactly what do you base that statement? ............. and what symptoms are you seeing?
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:44 PM
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I agree with Greeny. My fluid was very dark, pretty much black when I held up the pitcher to the light - and I did just 1 drain & refill acording to the service manual...plus drained whatever through the AT Cooler lines when I replaced the rad. 4.55L came out in total. If you don't want to shock the system, then maybe the 1 drain & refill method is good at first, just to give it a taste. Then if it's OK, you could do a 2nd or 3rd or wikings method.

After new fluid - i don't feel any difference and I've gone about 4,000KM so far....I know it's not that much yet - but it's something. This car has always shifted smoothly though. I used the dino ATF from Nissan, but I would feel confident with Walmart Supertech stuff too. I opted to not go with the Amsoil Syn, since the car only had cheap dino it's whole life - so I didn't want to change anything too drastically...if it is in fact on life support.

I drive it now like an old man. I rarely go beyond 2500 RPM, maybe touching 3000 RPM occasionally. It drives people crazy behind me. The over drive has been on it's entire life so I left it - and the comfort / power switch has always been in the middle OFF position.

I suggest having your speed dial set to a JY supplier to deliver you a replacement just in case. I bought the hoist mainly to prepare for the worst. I still need to buy the tranny jack. I don't expect it to last much longer even though it feels as good as new.

RE: What the mechanics told you

They told me the same thing - every mechanic. They said don't touch it. Most of them may not want to touch it just in case they did change it, then you go back and say somethings changed, and they are to blame for breaking the whole thing - my guess is the gain they get from changing the fluid is not worth the headache if something actually did happen - like the internal filter got clogged from the dirt being dislodged internally...or the detergents dislodging the dirt inside - because of new fluid - thus clogging the filter. My opinion is, don't shock it, but do something good for it.

Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 10-26-2008 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
your gonna have to explain how a "Oil manufacturers warranty" works cuz ill do it myself if the oil company will pay for it when it breaks its just that mechanics all say its gonna fall apart the second i flush it so they wont touch it.
No I dont have to, its the warranty giver side who should explain... All oil mfg say theres a warranty on their products - now I'd love to hear from someone who got any compensation based on that...

The best warranty for any mechanical entity is good oil and changed as OIL mfg recommends - flee from 'mechs' who disagree. One solution is Nissan stealership which wants to $ell a new tranny - that comes with a war ranty. Smbdy pls explain how that works, how many attorney$ are needed to get it fixed?
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by LvR
Forgetting rumors and such ................
On exactly what do you base that statement? ............. and what symptoms are you seeing?
went in to fail safe mode once shifts are also getting harder and more violent while the shift from 1-2 is almost non existent
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Old 10-27-2008, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
went in to fail safe mode once shifts are also getting harder and more violent while the shift from 1-2 is almost non existent
How does A/T self diag run?
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
went in to fail safe mode once shifts are also getting harder and more violent while the shift from 1-2 is almost non existent
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...nsmission.html
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:19 PM
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when yall talk about new fluid or the action of changing it dislodging "dirt"
do you mean a\t bands/clutches material?
because i just dont see how lots of DIRT is supposed to get inside?
our transmissions.

by the way ,a good percent of people get scammed into a whole
transmission replacement when the torque converter stripping
the spline teeth is the only problem and of course they either
also sell you a new torque converter or use the good one that comes with the used replacement trans
this is usually the case when the car wont engage in gear

Last edited by maximagician; 10-29-2008 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by maximagician
when yall talk about new fluid or the action of changing it dislodging "dirt"....
I cant see any basis on that talk. In daily drive, the 200 horses whipping the oil gives it such a speed that no 1/4hp "flush machine" can ever imagine overpowering it. The term flush itself is b$. There is no such thing...

These stories have been invented b/c regular oil change doesnt fit Nissan's quarterly revenue kick-off meetings. And helps lots of trannyshop$
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Old 10-30-2008, 07:51 PM
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I just hope my filter isn't getting clogged - because you guys said it can't really be serviced easily.

In all of your time on the ORG guys, have you ever heard of anyone successfully replacing the filter on the GXE A/T? Is it even a filter? I saw a part called strainer in the service manual - don't know if that's it. It didn't seem too low level to access.
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
I just hope my filter isn't getting clogged - because you guys said it can't really be serviced easily.

In all of your time on the ORG guys, have you ever heard of anyone successfully replacing the filter on the GXE A/T? Is it even a filter? I saw a part called strainer in the service manual - don't know if that's it. It didn't seem too low level to access.
if you are replacing the filter you might as well rebuild the transmission. You are that far into the transmission on the RE4F02A
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
I just hope my filter i...
Theres at least three sieves in the valve assy, wouldnt call em filters... And like IEA says, theres need for 'some' extra action if these get blocked.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
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Old 11-01-2008, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
went in to fail safe mode once shifts are also getting harder and more violent while the shift from 1-2 is almost non existent
my 94 GXE auto is like that, 1-2 is really smooth, and the rest are...i wouldnt say violent, but highly noticeable, ie. you whole body moves.

i tried driving the car in the OFF position, or comfort and could never do it again. the POWER option should always stay ON.
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Old 11-02-2008, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by pengwin
my 94 GXE auto is like that, 1-2 is really smooth, and the rest are...i wouldnt say violent, but highly noticeable, ie. you whole body moves.

i tried driving the car in the OFF position, or comfort and could never do it again. the POWER option should always stay ON.
That sw just moves shifting point up/down (in relation to rpm). The 1-2 shift may possibly be tweaked to work more sharply, check the link. Note that it was soft from the very beginning... check http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15

Last edited by Wiking; 11-02-2008 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 11-02-2008, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Wiking
That sw just moves shifting point up/down (in relation to rpm). The 1-2 shift may possibly be tweaked to work more sharply, check the link. Note that it was soft from the very beginning... check http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
but leaving it on power also seems to give it a faster throttle response. in off or comfort the car seems sluggish
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Old 11-02-2008, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by pengwin
but leaving it on power also seems to give it a faster throttle response. in off or comfort the car seems sluggish
P -position intentionally surpasses C in acceleration via shift rpm level change; a function where throttle is integral part... It feels faster also when/if exhaust leak produces throatier sound - while measured response is less.

P -is no turbo switch, just for tranny ctrl. Still I cant see no other than sales argument function for it. My P is always on...
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