Detail all things you have done so far to fix the current issue..

iirc, the last thing you done was put some gasket stuff on the cracked coils, right?

 

what plugs are you running? also maybe u should consider a good used set of coils, if ur running the VG plugs that will be causing problems, most places dont kno the diff between the engines

 

the plugs will work for either one in either motor

 

the vg asks for diff plugs than the ve, almost a 10 dollar diff per plug 2, at the dealer anyway, other stores tho have the same plug listed for both engines, i bought my ngks from nissan, the wrong ones were in my 92 se when i bought it, i also replaced some coils to at the same time so im not sure what fixed the stumbling issue exactly, but the coils i took out werent cracked or anything and ive never bothered to test them as the issue was fixed, courtesy has em at a 6 dollar diff a piece as well and the code on the plugs are diff, im guessing the dohc ones run hotter

dohc
http://www.courtesyparts.com/22401-p...-p-183553.html

sohc
http://www.courtesyparts.com/22401-p...s-p-44570.html

 

the heat range difference is 1.
the VE is supposed to have a laser platinum plug, but you can use the copper plugs in place of them.
The opposite is true as well.
These motors are not that fussy about the plug as compared to the newer toyotas which have to use the EXACTLY correct plug or you will set off the CEL

 

ah ok, must have been a faulty coil than causing the problems, so i literally payed twice as much money for nothing it sounds like, o well guess ill kno for next time

 

+1 for confirmation; I've ran NGK plats and coppers in my car. Generally, copper is a better electricity conductor than platinum, but doesn't cut it for longevity. I prefer the coppers in the VE and platinum in the VG

 

Im running ngk platinum. I think im getting a used set of coils and an egr.

 

Got a set of used coils. My coils were cracked. Car doesnt have the problems anymore as of now. Thanks for all the help guys. Again The coils fixed the problem thanks GREENY!!

 

 

I didn't want to read through 6 pages of this crap.

It is almost certainly your coil packs. With the used ones, this could happen again. It's somewhat common.

Do a search for the phrase "bucking" in the 3rd gen section. There is a long thread about this from maybe 4 years ago.

MrGone and I tried swapping out virtually everything possible on my car and it ended up being one of the rear coil packs that was bad.

 

He fixed the problem with a different set of coilpacks chris..

 

I have a 92 max se dohc. ve30de, with an automatic tranny. I have been having the same probs as this guy. The car cuts out when driving down the road or sitting still. The tack. will drop to zero when driving or sitting still. Accelerator will respond sometimes and sometimes it will not cause the car will die, but not always. I shift to neutral and the engine always starts backup immediately. When you give it throttle it will usually take off again, but sometimes not. Its as though you have turned the key off when this happens. I have replaced the cam position sensor and other items as well. Plugs, wire, injectors. Have done numerous other tests. Its been a year or so since I last worked on it. Started out doing this occasionally, but now its everytime you start it up. Any help would be deeply appreciated. Love the car so much its still in the drive, just hoping to fix someday thank you

 

OK, I don't know how far things have diverted from the original question at this point, but I've been having a very similar issue:

1) motor "cuts out" a lot, meaning it acts as if it suddenly loses spark or fuel, just for a second, then regains and runs again. Its especially bad several minutes after its been running and before it warms up completely. Sometimes it stalls out completely, and have to restart. Often while its driving during this period, it behaves similar to how if you're running out of gas (and we've all been there, admit it) and using the last few drops of fuel and you get that "surging" effect. After it warms up completely, it pretty much goes away, except for occasionally stalling out, especially when I'm at a light right after it turns green (of course).

2) I had it hooked up to a diagnostic and it showed no issues with spark or fuel. The supposed explanation is that there is a lot of carbon buildup in the motor and it will just have to slowly burn out. I've been filling up with high test, plus a couple containers of octane boost, plus a dose of Seafoam, each time, and the problem has been marginally getting better.

Hope this helps, or at least rings a bell with somebody.

 

hey dont mean to gravedig or threadjack but my car did that same thing capedcadavers did in the video of the second post of this topic.....my maxima is a VG and its automatic....any ideas?

sidenote....unlike some people whos "fuel cuts off" and they some how get it going againg with a few taps of the pedal, mine wont accelerate until i actually turn the car off then start it again. had to pull over to do this about 5 times yesterday on a 7 mile trip.