Crankshaft pulley TURNED
Crankshaft pulley TURNED
So i was in the process of changing the water pump.. got all belts off ect ect.. and then i went to take the crankshaft pulley off. I used an impact wrench at first and had no luck at removing the crankshaft bolt. Next i tried a breaker bar and when using this i made the MISTAKE of letting the crankshaft pulley actually turn... Will this will create a bigger problem for me since the crankshaft pulley has been rotated? If so what do i now need to do to fix it...
So i was in the process of changing the water pump.. got all belts off ect ect.. and then i went to take the crankshaft pulley off. I used an impact wrench at first and had no luck at removing the crankshaft bolt. Next i tried a breaker bar and when using this i made the MISTAKE of letting the crankshaft pulley actually turn... Will this will create a bigger problem for me since the crankshaft pulley has been rotated? If so what do i now need to do to fix it...
Not touched the T-belt? ---> accessory belts, crankshaft pulley have no timing and can be rotated in whatever position...
(When no teeth on any belt driven system pulleys, belt, then timing cannot ever exist)
Truly the pulley groove has to fit with the key... but I guess t-here was no problem?

Here is not question of timing, but just traction: pulley is not allowed to slip on the crank...
If the key/groove was broken beyond repair, then one option is to drill a hole longitudinally for another key/pin. The new hole/groove would 'cover' half on pulley, half on the crank axle end; use drill bit as a key. Not a good option, but working and is done smtimes when the other option is junking the whole engine...

Here is not question of timing, but just traction: pulley is not allowed to slip on the crank...
If the key/groove was broken beyond repair, then one option is to drill a hole longitudinally for another key/pin. The new hole/groove would 'cover' half on pulley, half on the crank axle end; use drill bit as a key. Not a good option, but working and is done smtimes when the other option is junking the whole engine...
Last edited by Wiking; Dec 9, 2008 at 12:13 AM.
Absolutely nothing wrong with explaining possible repair methods, but make sure we're comparing apples to apples.
With comments from CMax, Here's this n00blet guy thinking he's possibly going to have to replace his crank or rebuild the engine when the only thing that happened is the engine turned backwards a bit while he was trying to break the crank bolt loose. He needs to quit using his mat and ask more questions.

Your explanations are usually spot on, albeit somewhat unorthodox at times. And yes, thanks for the help you do provide. We all appreciate your willingness to help out.
With comments from CMax, Here's this n00blet guy thinking he's possibly going to have to replace his crank or rebuild the engine when the only thing that happened is the engine turned backwards a bit while he was trying to break the crank bolt loose. He needs to quit using his mat and ask more questions.

Your explanations are usually spot on, albeit somewhat unorthodox at times. And yes, thanks for the help you do provide. We all appreciate your willingness to help out.
Truly the pulley groove has to fit with the key... but I guess t-here was no problem?

Here is not question of timing, but just traction: pulley is not allowed to slip on the crank...
If the key/groove was broken beyond repair, then one option is to drill a hole longitudinally for another key/pin. The new hole/groove would 'cover' half on pulley, half on the crank axle end; use drill bit as a key. Not a good option, but working and is done smtimes when the other option is junking the whole engine...

Here is not question of timing, but just traction: pulley is not allowed to slip on the crank...
If the key/groove was broken beyond repair, then one option is to drill a hole longitudinally for another key/pin. The new hole/groove would 'cover' half on pulley, half on the crank axle end; use drill bit as a key. Not a good option, but working and is done smtimes when the other option is junking the whole engine...
It appears to me that the key drift is looking sorta short and no where as tall as the key slot in the crank pulley! You might wanna get some more key drifts...It looks sheared to me! As long as the crank snout's key drift slot is not all screwed you'll be fine!
!
Sorry crap dealer! I don't shop @ places like that...you know what I mean? Unaware of their website/datadase....Just remember your running a business not me...so don't overload mouth with your *** or vice versa! Some reason or another you're always trying to think down and talk down to folks...It's not that cool, just in cause you think it is.....
!
!2. I don't run that business anymore. I sold it a year ago.
3. You must not read the FAQs here (that's obvious from your posts), since the Autozone service manual has been posted in the stickies for about 5 years.
4. Autozone sells most of the same brands of parts that all the others do. Many of them employ retards, but that goes the same for all the other stores around here as well.
5. I'm not trying to talk down to people. If I see a stupid comment, I call out the stupidity and make sure it isn't passed on to another person..... I'm putting in the chlorine this country's godawful genepool needs.
1. Don't threaten me. Do it again and I'll see to it that you don't post here again. And the rest of the mods have my back.
2. I don't run that business anymore. I sold it a year ago.
3. You must not read the FAQs here (that's obvious from your posts), since the Autozone service manual has been posted in the stickies for about 5 years.
4. Autozone sells most of the same brands of parts that all the others do. Many of them employ retards, but that goes the same for all the other stores around here as well.
5. I'm not trying to talk down to people. If I see a stupid comment, I call out the stupidity and make sure it isn't passed on to another person..... I'm putting in the chlorine this country's godawful genepool needs.
2. I don't run that business anymore. I sold it a year ago.
3. You must not read the FAQs here (that's obvious from your posts), since the Autozone service manual has been posted in the stickies for about 5 years.
4. Autozone sells most of the same brands of parts that all the others do. Many of them employ retards, but that goes the same for all the other stores around here as well.
5. I'm not trying to talk down to people. If I see a stupid comment, I call out the stupidity and make sure it isn't passed on to another person..... I'm putting in the chlorine this country's godawful genepool needs.
seriously man.. give it a rest. we appreciate that you helped move things along with the ASP pulleys, but this time, you misread a few things and jumped to a conclusion about someone else's car, and once proven wrong, took up arms about it. The dude saw his pulley turn and assumed that it turned AGAINST the crank... which it DID NOT. The whole crank and rotating assembly turned... so regardless what picture came from where, who figured out what really happened, or what the price of tea is in china.. chill out.
Then again, one would think that running a business modifying Maximas would give me more credibility. :shrug:
yea they just list the part#s of their other stuff on there. i was getting my 5.5gen brake rotors and it was valucraft... and listed raybestos and bendix part numbers on the box 'for reference'
oh. the box said valucraft very plainly, then listed several other companies' part numbers in smaller print the corner... i guess to be like "equivalent to these parts" or something. but for the ones i got they were like uh.. $40-45 each i think
AZ here doesn't have moog.
as far as their reboxing goes, they buy from whomever is cheapest and rebox that, so there is no guarantee of what is in the box.
the valucraft rotors are actually sourced from a warehouse local to me, and they are cheap chinese rotors just like anyone else's cheap rotor. As far as them being the same as a bendix rotor, to me they may be made different, but they still function the same and last the same. there is no difference in 99% of the rotors for most uses.
For most uses, no. For the average DD, the AZ rotors are just fine.
For a car that's going to see track use, I'd be a bit more wary... Then again, the local spec Miata guys use them. They buy 3-4 sets and mill them down to the minimum thickness (to save 2 oz of unsprung rotating weight), then throw them away after each race.
Looking at AZ's website, they don't seem to have the MOOG stuff for Maximas anymore. Last time I bought anything from them, I was buying bushings for a Ford and they were Moog. :shrug:
For a car that's going to see track use, I'd be a bit more wary... Then again, the local spec Miata guys use them. They buy 3-4 sets and mill them down to the minimum thickness (to save 2 oz of unsprung rotating weight), then throw them away after each race.
Looking at AZ's website, they don't seem to have the MOOG stuff for Maximas anymore. Last time I bought anything from them, I was buying bushings for a Ford and they were Moog. :shrug:
Last edited by Matt93SE; Dec 11, 2008 at 06:35 AM.

YER ALL N00BS COMPARED TO MEEE!
But if you're asking questions like this and have 75 posts, you're still a n00blet in the grand scheme of things. Don't take offense to it man- it's only a name.
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