Hey you guys know who you are! Those VG30E Oem sized pulleys are said to be ready 2 weeks into 2009! ASP is closed for 2 weeks around the Christmas Holiday. Lee is making 3 oem sized pulleys so I recommend you guys call and charge your cards for the pulleys. The cost is $150, please pm me so you can get the account name.... Thank You!

 

they need payment right now?

 

Since I don't have the money right now, will it be possible to order them next month at the same price, or do they need to do them as a group deal?

 

yea in the other thread he said that once the item is in their system they can do one at a time as needed, for the same price.

 

will this work for the rwd vg30e? if so, i'll buy 2

 

It should I'll send you some pic's if necessary, but The pulley runs 3 belts the 2 most fwd belts are the same dia, while the rear belt has a smaller diameter. Look @ yours and describe it. What kind of vehicle is it on? I'll look in the interchanegeability books... Mine is a 1990 Maxima.

 

i just got mine, workmanship is 100%, buy one! i didn't put it on a scale cause i didn't think the needle would even move. i've no regrets on my purchase. more updates when i put it on (tonight hopefully)

 

it depends on the year of the VG30e engine. the snout on the end of the crank is different on some of the years. its different on the 1984-86z than it is on the 87 -89z. and i think the maxima has the 87-89z style snout not 100% on that. when i was looking to put my 86 vg30et in my max i ran into that as a small dilema. never did the swap. to much money not enough time. rather work on the rustang to be my realy fast car. the max as my daily comfortable driver

 

The lightweight OEM size pulley was installed on my auto vg maxima. I don’t have any quantifiable data but I’ll describe any differences as best I can.
1. The engine definitely idles quieter/smoother. Not that I had a rough idle to begin with but it is quieter so I’m just assuming it’s idling smoother as well.
2. 1st gear I did not notice anything but second gear does pull through the rpm’s with more authority.
3. 3rd gear starts pulling around 2k now. I’ve noticed in my car when accelerating it seems to pull from 3k to 5k+ the strongest with the stock pulley.
4. When I got on the highway, more times than not if I wanted to see 100 mph I had to mash the gas and downshift to 3rd. This time I just pressed the gas a little to about 3500rpms and viola there I was.
Oh yeah everything described above was experienced on crap engine mounts.

 

any pics of it installed? and i forget.. did you actually have anything wrong with your stock pulley (like mine.. it flutters a bit) or just wanted the extra pep of a lightweight one. and did you replace the key or anything when you put it on?

btw i'm posting from the couch in Greeny's living room on my way home tomorrow.

 

Not the VG pulley, and not installed, but for thread beautification purposes here's my ASP VE pulley.

 

I have a UR Under Drive Pulley that I mistakenly bought for my VG30E Maxima, but it is actually for the RWD Z31 300ZX. It has only 2 rows and is brand new, never been used. It also comes with the necessary belts. If you choose to purchase one, I'll make you a deal to give you this one if you buy a stock size for the Max and we can exchange them. Let me know.

-Mark

 

does it come with a little status sticker for your window too?

this is definitely something i'm getting as soon as i'm out of the hole i've been digging myself since october.

 

sounds great, stupid question does it have the timing marks on it

 

99 problems huh... lol

 

yea. well, my crank pulley has ALWAYS wobbled. I thought it was a bent crank.. but i have the motor Goon painted now, and it still does it, so it's gotta be the pulley, or coincidence. Plus these pulleys are lightweight and awesome looking (call me lazy.. but are they available in multiple colors?)

But 99 problems def applies to me.. me n Greeny did a McDonald's run last night and just as we were taking the turn onto his street, one of my heater hoses blew up and the steam was making my alty belt slip... then it started billowing out from under the hood Good thing i chose to stay the night here.. if i'd packed up the stuff and left it'd have blown up somewhere near Knoxville in the middle of the night.

 

that won't help you much. that is a VE pulley.
joo gots a Veggie

 

Yes, it has timing marks! I'll post pic's tonite if possible next to a VG OEM, and UR UDP as well as the Oem sized ASP VG30 pulley itself.

 

Yes, they have timing marks exactly like the OEM.

Before you install it, I HIGHLY recommend using some white out or a paint pen or something to mark the timing grooves on the pulley and make them more visible.
basically, mark the TDC and the 15* BTDC tick marks.

 

I'll get pics tonight, I didnt take any while putting it on though. Mine was a little wobbley and my belts needed to be changed so that was my excuse. My mechanic came by to make sure I didnt screw anything up and said I didnt need to replace the key. I thought he may have been wrong but it doesnt wobble anymore.

 

Are you saying you REMOVED they key, or are you saying you just used the old one?

Long as the key isn't bent/broken/damaged, then they're good forever. it's a non-wear item for the most part.

 

Just used the old one.

 

okie dokie... yeah, as long as it's in good shape, no reason to replace. I've only had to replace one, which the crank bolt fell out and the pulley jumped around and beat it up.

 

I included the pics of the ASP Racing Oem sized pulley along with the UR UDP crank pulley and Nissan Oem crank pulley:

 

thanks for the pics cmax!

 

so this part is good for the vg30e and helps acceleration? =] sorry i just wanted some clarification!

also is installation simple? or does it need an experienced mechanic to do the job?

thanks!

 

Cmax...you're photo's aren't showin' up...can you fix those? I'd like to see these!!!

 

Sure!!! That's what happens when you startmoving pictures around....

Here ASP Racing and OEM...and then ASP and UR

 

I'm not a techie or anything but from some things I've read and actually feel with the car is that it does help with acceleration and initial response, more so in the 2k to 5k range. My car never felt like it had any pull above 5k (I dont know if I'm the only one) so that hasn't changed. I guess a good comparison would be if you've played sports the you know how a good lightwieght shoe feels or a lightweight bowling ball, things just move a little quicker.

 

No, I don't think it's difficult. After raising the front passenger side of the car with a jack and support it properly with a jack stand, you just need to remove the wheel, passenger side splash guard, loosen the drive belts, remove them (set them aside after inspecting them to make sure they are good, or replace them later if they are no good), use a powerful impact wrench or breaker bar with a 1 1/4" six-sided socket to loosen and remove the crank nut, use a crank pulley puller that you can get at most any auto parts store to remove the crank pulley (making sure to see and keep the crank shaft key - small halfmoon shaped piece of metal that fits in the notch on the shaft). Then replace the stock pulley with the light weight one and reinstall everything else in reverse order.

Since the timing belt is not being removed you shouldn't have to worry about adjusting the timing after reinstalling everything. Also, it may take quite some effort to remove the original crank pulley if you have never done it before or don't have the right tools. Make sure to use plenty of lubricating spray if you need to. One possibly dangerous (and therefore not recommended, but rather effective if done successfully) way to loosen the crank shaft nut to remove the pulley is to wedge a breaker bar with the socket on the nut against the ground angled in the right direction (towards the front of the car). Then crank up the car for a second and turn it off again. The torque of the engine should be enough to break loose the nut most of the way. Be careful that the breaker bar is not flung off and away from the car thus possibly damaging your car, property or someone else who might be too close. So, think twice before doing this.

Anyway, I'm sure you can do it successfully which ever way you choose. Just be careful.
Good luck!

-Mrkanda

 

don't forget to bring lube to the party...upon assembly it'll be smart to avoid that dissimilar metal corrosion by using anti-seize on the crank and inner pulley bore....

 

the only time you get cathodic corrosion from dissimilar metals is when it stays immersed in salt water.

 

We are immerged in salt water!!! It's the humid Gulf of Mexico, the 3rd coast!

 

try chicago in winter. our cars are submerged in salt water

 

meh. Only if you live in Galveston and spend all your time driving up and down the beach.

At that point, the salt deposits on the car will cause surface corrosion of any metals because of the salt, not just the dissimilar metal interface..

Once immersed in salt water, you have a different type of thing happening, which is cathodic corrosion or electrolysis... Two dissimilar metals submerged in an electrolyte will cause the less noble metal to dissolve and plate itself onto the more noble metal (assuming the water doesn't wash the metal ions away before they can plate onto the metal)..


Two issues, two chemical processes.

 

Free electricity anyone???? Yeah I've dealt with that problem for many years in aircraft in the local gulf coast region that weren't immersed in salt water directly but through the high humidity in the air we breathe but I guess getting the air cramped into your airframe at 160 mph it'll be more concentrated than rolling around in Houston at 45 mph. Anyway it'll come off easier next time as well that's my point .

 

doing a 5spd swap on nc90gxe's car this weekend so i snapped a few pics before unbolting the t/c

 

holy crap! I hope you guys found and fixed that nasty oil leak too!!!

 

Did you change the crankshaft seal when you changed the pulley? If it's the crank seal it's really slinging it! GL

 

well i know alot is coming out the valve cover gaskets.. but there's got to be more locations cuz the timing cover and all that shouldn't be that bad from just VC gasket but the heads are coated in nastyness. truthfully everything that CAN be covered in nastyness is.. heads, motor mounts, oil pressure sensor, everything. sucks that the dealer is closed cuz this would be a great time to do the rear main.. i guess i COULD just use parts store stuff but i know it's frowned upon.... at least he changes his oil regularly instead of just topping it off as it leaks.