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Old 12-10-2008, 04:35 PM
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engine help

currently im in the hunt for a decent VG motor for my 89 SE 5Spd...unfortunately the one i had as a spare turned out to be a crappy one...thanks to Caped Cadaver for the help in findin out that info...but im hunting for a good VG at junkyards and i dont know wut to look for as in if the motor im lookin at is even any good...any ideas???
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Old 12-10-2008, 04:42 PM
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On the vg, you need to make sure the timing belt is still intact, remove the dizzy cap, and have someone turn the crank pulley with a breaker bar/ratchet..If the rotor button spins, then the t-belt is still intact.
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Old 12-10-2008, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
On the vg, you need to make sure the timing belt is still intact, remove the dizzy cap, and have someone turn the crank pulley with a breaker bar/ratchet..If the rotor button spins, then the t-belt is still intact.
well... and also that the engine can turn 2 full revolutions. the 'replacement engine' that we got from his dad's house sunday morning a) had no tbelt on it and b) the timing was different on both cams, and neither cam was lined up to the crank. but even after removing all the rocker arms from the engine.. thus 'neutralizing' the valves (in some vain hope that the valves would be OK if i reset the cams w/ all valves closed), the darn thing STILL wouldn't turn over. here's why



the engine was (aside from being dirty as all hell, including cob webs where the water pump goes, and rust everywhere on the outside) flooded with water. I turned the crank backwards a little bit and water POURED out of the exhaust manifold. like... a cup full. and the #2 intake valve was rusted in the open position and crud down in the disty shaft hole.... just disgusting. and the old motor had debris in cylinder 4 that was caught against the flat part of the head (called a quench pad? mebbe?) and the only way to get it out was to pull the heads (was unsure whether cyl 4 or 1... ended up being 4, but i had to pull both heads on account of it) sooo i could have put new head gaskets on, BUT that was the original 'bad motor' in the first place so why bother.

i'm going to the JY tomorrow to look at a couple motors up here to see if i can find a better one than he can. plus if he does have me come down and finish putting a new motor in.... then i'm gonna have to find a clutch pedal and shifter for nc90gxe
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Old 12-10-2008, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
well... and also that the engine can turn 2 full revolutions. the 'replacement engine' that we got from his dad's house sunday morning a) had no tbelt on it and b) the timing was different on both cams, and neither cam was lined up to the crank. but even after removing all the rocker arms from the engine.. thus 'neutralizing' the valves (in some vain hope that the valves would be OK if i reset the cams w/ all valves closed), the darn thing STILL wouldn't turn over. here's why



the engine was (aside from being dirty as all hell, including cob webs where the water pump goes, and rust everywhere on the outside) flooded with water. I turned the crank backwards a little bit and water POURED out of the exhaust manifold. like... a cup full. and the #2 intake valve was rusted in the open position and crud down in the disty shaft hole.... just disgusting. and the old motor had debris in cylinder 4 that was caught against the flat part of the head (called a quench pad? mebbe?) and the only way to get it out was to pull the heads (was unsure whether cyl 4 or 1... ended up being 4, but i had to pull both heads on account of it) sooo i could have put new head gaskets on, BUT that was the original 'bad motor' in the first place so why bother.

i'm going to the JY tomorrow to look at a couple motors up here to see if i can find a better one than he can. plus if he does have me come down and finish putting a new motor in.... then i'm gonna have to find a clutch pedal and shifter for nc90gxe
now i had a mechanic also tell me to look for milky oil, additives in the radiator and something out the exhaust which i cant remember at the moment..he said its lookin to see for any blown head gaskets...is this information correct??

P.S. Thanks for the help this past weekend Cadaver but yeah i will be having you come put the new motor in...only if my dad decides to buy it for me lol...and only if you can verify its a good motor...i wouldnt mind riding to raleigh but my lazy friend trey prolly would have a problem with that lol

Last edited by MaximaFan4140; 12-10-2008 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MaximaFan4140
now i had a mechanic also tell me to look for milky oil, additives in the radiator and something out the exhaust which i cant remember at the moment..he said its lookin to see for any blown head gaskets...is this information correct??


P.S. Thanks for the help this past weekend Cadaver but yeah i will be having you come put the new motor in...only if my dad decides to buy it for me lol...and only if you can verify its a good motor...i wouldnt mind riding to raleigh but my lazy friend trey prolly would have a problem with that lol
yea, to see if the oil and coolant had mixed, due to a blown HG. remember how i was pointing out the holes around the cylinders? some for coolant, and some for oil (and some for bolts)? well if the gasket is blown, everything can mix together and you will have milky oil, oil floating at the top of the radiator and/or white smoke out the exhaust.



but you can't really run a car at the JY... I can check compression on my car at 'hand-spun speed' as a baseline for comparison against any engine that i may encounter at my JY... doesn't help with the engines you are looking at near you, as far as verifying that the cylinders are properly airtight. that's why I kindof wanted to use an engine I got to look over, since i've got a few more tricks up my sleeve than you have free access to on your own.



and since your dad bought the car new... i'd think he'd be a lil more willing to help get it running again than if he hadn't bought it new. if I find a good one up here tho.. i might be able to get the guy i know to help get it to you and with my hoist and all. i'll talk to him and see what he says. the thing is... gaskets are kinda costly so i'm gonna try and get one with injectors and the intake already on it, if possible. i'll see how much that runs compared to a shortblock plus the cost of gaskets.

Last edited by CapedCadaver; 12-10-2008 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:51 PM
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After all of that major stuff is looked over (t-belt, headgasket) an experienced eye peering into the rocker cover with a flashlight is a good indicator, the varnish or lack therof tells alot about oil-change intervals & general health.

Good luck getting your car up and running again.
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:38 PM
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easiest way to find a good motor:
Buy a whole running car
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
easiest way to find a good motor:
Buy a whole running car


J-yard engines are a coin toss..
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
easiest way to find a good motor:
Buy a whole running car
DEFINITELY not a possibility in this case. i may have talked to you about him on AIM... but anyhow.. JY is basically the best we're gonna be able to do. If we can't get a motor for it, then he might part it, or sell it as a shell.... we'll see as the week progresses.
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:51 PM
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dang, up here you can find them with a blown trans for $500. but they are still running so you can verify it's condition.
I don't trust JY's claims. we spent 3+ weeks on a motor recently because we had to do the top end (outside ends really) because it was crap in reality even though they claimed to have tested it.
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:56 PM
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http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/946964627.html

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Old 12-10-2008, 08:13 PM
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1) looks like a cadillac with those wheels
2) budget here is under $200... i can find a respectably functional engine (we have a full set of good lifters, if lifters are an issue) for that price even if the injectors are bad... i have a whole rail of good injectors as well.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:21 AM
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caped give me a call i know where a block is. he pulled the heads off cause they were bad but he hasnt used the engine (the car he was going to install it in, the owner flaked on him). its in raleigh maybe you can swing by and take a look.
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by nc90gxe
caped give me a call i know where a block is. he pulled the heads off cause they were bad but he hasnt used the engine (the car he was going to install it in, the owner flaked on him). its in raleigh maybe you can swing by and take a look.
well the problem is 2-fold.. i haven't got any spare heads to use (only 'spare' motor i have laying around was run until the t-belt broke) and plus the cost of heads + head gaskets is more than i can get a complete motor for at the JY. If this were for a no-holds-barred rebuild then i might take a look at it, but this is just on too tight of a budget.
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