They strip so easy... Even though an apex bit can be used to loosen and tighten those phillip head fasteners they can't beat a hex head bolt....

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no 12point no care

 

1. You should be using a #3 phillips screwdriver, not a #2. Most people that strip them are using a #2.

2. They don't need to be on that tight. Just "snug" by hand with a screwdriver is all you need. any more than that is cause to strip the threads in the aluminum or warp the sheet metal valve cover and cause them to leak.

 

Same goes for the injector top cap screws, most people strip them out due to using the wrong size screwdriver.

 

Yeah, that's why I prefer to use an Apex bit with a 1/4" drive, but now it's easier and quicker , no it doesn't need to be extremely tight, but you don't have to put your weight down on that apex to keep it tight, so it won't jump out of the phillip head.

 

The #3 phillips torqued to the right values shouldn't require much, if any pressure to hold it in the bit. these are NOT tight.

 

a nother ideal is that i used the allen key bolts that i robbed from a mitsubushi intake manifold it is also the same hex to open the 200sx intake manifold..

 

or u can use deep socket to hand tight ( u can tight with socket by hands pretty well ) and then give it a lil more torque but watch out not to give too much or u will be breaking the thing in half...this way u wont strip the screw....

i have broken several coil screws in half with ratchet lol

 

Yeah I thought about using allen head bolt cause of thier high tech look but, didnt wanna deal with a allen not fitting if they slight corroded inside the hex, but that was one of my options along with 12 point bolts. I spent about $10 on Stainsteel hardware, grade 8.8, those 12 point fastener would have been $ 35-40 from ARP minimum. It's not that I need to tighten the bolt that tight MATT, under the Upper IM are a few bolts that if loose would be easier too tighten with a boxed end ratchet or a 1/4" drive/w 10mm socket. I had good luck on My other Nissans bb cleaning and applying LOCKTITE to the threads cause on a 4 cylinder everything loosens. So maybe that would be that much of an issue on my V6 but I do play on visiting the new 7000 rpm redline/fuel cut off ......

 

Unless you've got headwork, cams, and headers, then there's no point in revving a VG over 6000rpm. They just don't make power up there unless you've really worked the heads over.

and torqued right the first time, those valve cover screws shouldn't ever come loose. I never had a problem with them on my VG, as long as I left them alone. :shrug:

but to each their own. no kill like overkill for some people.

 

Whatever you do.. Don't replace them with the Black hex heads from ace. They tend to rust .

 

Isky cam 256, ported, port matched, JWT ECU and yes of course Headers!

 

we can has dyno..... right?

 

and i know you aren't supposed to torque them really tight or anything like that, and that the screwdriver will work fine.. i guess some people just prefer sockets to screwdrivers. tho a magnetic-tip drill with phillips head tip should do just fine when trying to get the screws out in a hurry

 

Sounds like fun. I wanna see a dyno when you're done. (Bet you still get outrun by a stock VE! )

 

For the last 6 months, my Maxima has had a leaky valve cover gasket. You could smell the burning oil. You can see the ooze trail left over from the drip.

Well, it has gotten worse. In desperation, I took my phillips head screwdriver and began to tighten the screws. Lo and behold, they were loose and was probably the cause of the leak. Has this happened to anyone else?

Is there a torque number I should shoot for? It sounds like too much can lead to problems.

 

You think? Guess with a little ingenuity, I might be able to take out a modded VE, preferably red!

 

When you get it running, take it by HRP... I ran a 14.73 there pretty much stock with a slipping clutch..

When you get done modding, bring it to a REAL race track. Beat a 2:03 lap time at Texas World Speedway or a 2:06 at MSR-Houston on street tires and I'll concede.

 

Damn....Just...damn...

 

ingenuity... in the form of slashing said VE owner's tires? cutting his fuel line? sawing his driverside axle in half? putting 87 octane in his tank ?

seriously though, i'd like to know what kind of quarter mile time you get. mid 15s would be nice.. i got 16.3 on a basically-stock VG auto... so my car should be into the 15s now... i'd imagine you'd beat me by a few tenths with this motor work.

 

Wow! Sounds Fast, Those times are better than my 03 Maxima (modded) pretty impressive for a VE. I never launch too hard and I still managed a 14.86 in the summer heat in O/D with 35 psi in the tires, empty wt:3380lbs/ with driver 3585 lbs. Otherwords not even dailed in to run....

 

It's possible they were broken fasteners from the corrosion and age. Mine look like they need to be drilled out - we'll see, I will be replacing them, but for now the gunk & dirt is probably making a good enough seal as it is.

Torque values are probably in the FSM - but you'll need an expensive dial micrometer wrench if you really wanted to do it. I would just snug them like these guys say. Unless you want to start torqing your hose clamps like a dork, I wouldn't justify spending 300 smackeroos on one of those things.

 

proper torque for these screws is about "three fingers on the screwdriver" tight.
i.e. just give 'em a twist till you start to feel some tension. factory spec is like 2.2-4ft lb or something like that. that ain't much. I can turn about 100in-lb (8.3 ft-lb) by hand using a screwdriver. so ballpark 1/3 to 1/2 of how tight you *can* get them by hand.

 

tighten them until they break, then back off 1/4 turn..

 

Yeah.. that's the fun part.
A STOCK 1993 SE 5 spd was tested by many car mags 15 years ago and put down the same 1/4 mile times as the new big billybadass 7th gen "4dsc" with 300hp....
it's the same weight and has only 190hp and is just as fast.. AND it gets 30mpg if you keep your foot out of it. yeah... "return of the 4DSC" my ****.

 

No.. that exhaust studs...

 

Hmmph..So that's what i was doing wrong..

 

Wow! That's impressive!...Kung Fu fingers? I've torqued a 206L1 mast nut with 1 arm to 250 ft/lbs....

 

I spend a lot of time twisting on small objects.

 

 

Matt, stop scaring the children.

 

Matt where exactly is this MSR-Houston road course? Somewhere around Katy/Sealy area? You've ever participated in the Texas Mile?

 

No Tx mile here, but I have friends that do it frequently.

MSR-Houston is just north of Angleton.
http://tinyurl.com/4ncg8x

You're prolly thinking of Lonestar Motorsports Park... That's John Hennessey's dragstrip in Sealy. He was talking about building a road course there but hasn't started yet..