Ok the short version is:
Battery is new (3 weeks)
Alternator voltage goes up with revs (~12.2 at idle goes up to 14.X)
Car will not run with battery disconnected, dies instantly (Normal?)
Also will not run without battery even at higher revs when output is higher.
I checked all fuses and connections on positive terminal, it all seems ok.

So WTF?! Getting very tired of this car lately but I know its not new so..... whatever, just want it fixed. Thanks in advance guys...

BTW anyone got a left rear drum brake strut they dont want? My threads for the top nut might be stripped and i dont want to take it apart to check without a new part to replace.

 

You have a dead alty...

 

+1.

Alternator should read 14+ at idle.

 

So this thing should run without the battery connected? I'm a little unsure because the alternator does put out more voltage with more revs, is it possible the regulator can fail partly? Usually when the alternator dies, it dies, no voltage at all. Figures though, I think its original and usually the regulators die after a battery fails too.

 

Altenator can be very picky. I have taken some in to get tested and tested perfect but when on the car won't work worth a crap. I would switch the altenator. Out and yes the can fail partly. My GFs max voltage regulator is out right now randomly will put out around 16v for a short period.

 

ur alty is on its way to the grave...

 

the voltage regulator on your alternator has failed. the car won't run when the battery is disconnected because it isn't receiving any power from the alternator (or insufficient power) to run the motor.

 

Thanks to all who saw the right solution. The new alternator put out 14.8x and now all is well Still looking for that strut body though, the noises it makes are awful!

 

i might have one... but you'd have to replace all the brake components on it with the ones from yours, a) for consistency and b) cuz i left it out in the rain with the drum off. if you wanna pay shipping to NY then be my guest. PM me.

 

I just had that same problem...and it was the alternator... so i went out to buy a new alt and the batt that was hooked up was already dead and needed to be charged...but the people at advance was doing it all wrong ur suppose to check the alt output in amps not volts... so i drove off and tha batt light and break light came back on so i took tha alt back and got a new batt also tell them to charge the batt first and install the new alt then put the batt in it and the problem was fixed...

 

I didn't even have a battery light, do any of the damn trouble reporting devices on this car work? The ECU wont throw codes, the battery light wont come on.....what else? BTW voltage is a good way to check the alternator, its what the FSM recommends anyway. I suppose you might have the right voltage but it wont put out adequate amperage but I'm sure thats rare. Also I charged the battery while I was doing the alternator job, since it was unhooked anyway.