I have now driven my 1992 VE for ~50 miles everything feels good. The only thing I have noticed that bothers me is that the oil light on the right side of the gauge cluster will flicker once the car is warm and it idles for about 5-10 seconds. I assume that is an idiot light for the oil pressure and not the oil level right? What would be causing this? I can rev the engine and it goes away. Possibly the idle is a little too low? Anyone have experience with this?

 

sounds like low oil pressure. could be a worn oil pump, or loose bearings. either way, it's replacement motor time (again) unless you want to rebuild one of yours. You can band aid it by using "motor honey" but it's like putting a band aid on a stab wound, it's no where near a real solution it just hides the problem.

 

so you don't think it would have anything to do with the car idoling around 600 rpm? It does not do it when it is cold or when the engine speed is above 600 rpm. Only when the engine is warm and the idle speed drops low. I assume that idiot light is for the oil pressure, but I just got this car so I really have not looked into it.

 

I used to idle that low with no oil light.
you could also try thicker oil, but again band aid.

do an oil pressure check with a gauge to see exactly what your pressure really is. it could also be a bad sensor (unlikely based on your symptoms)

 

are you using the USDM sensor or the JDM one? perhaps you can get an actual oil pressure gauge to be sure.

 

I am using the JDM sensor, and the USDM sensor I am pretty sure just went to the junk yard on Saturday...I don't think that is something that I took off. Are the sensors different?

 

they could be. try to see if it was taken to the yard or not, or hit up autozone, or internetautosupply.

 

1. TEST THE OIL PRESSURE. Dummy lights are exactly that. they're prone to failure. They're also prone to clogging with bits of gunk buildup if the inside of the engine is dirty.

I had that happen on my truck during a road trip a while back and was freaking out cause the gauge only showed 3-4-5psi at any rpm. I checked the oil and it had plenty.. was getting oil at the valve cover.. so I shut it off and let it cool down while I ate dinner and was going to change the oil after I ate. When I went back out, the pressure was fine. I drove it home and pulled the sending unit for the gauge- it was covered in chunks of varnish and crapola from the inside of the dirty engine.


2. Check/replace the sending unit for the dummy light. they've been known to go bad after 15 years on the road. They're only about $5 or so from the parts store and take just a few minutes to change. VERY easy on the VE.


3. As for what pressures you should be seeing, on a cold engine you should see 30+psi at idle. when it warms up, you'll see 6-10psi at idle and should go up to 30+ psi at 3000rpm.

 

could just be really low oil... might want to check that you are at the correct level first

 

I just added oil 50 miles ago when I started the engine for the first time, and I see no signs of leaks. I have checked the dip stick and it looks fine...even though it is very hard to read that pointy looking thing.

I'm thinking I may just hook up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, since these engines seem to have a few oil related problems. I will also probably just swap the sensor out for a new one for peice of mind.

 

i just wanted to make sure you werent overlooking the easy fix but it sounds like you are on top of it, good luck

 

My car had this went I put in a JDM motor 5 years ago... Im pretty sure the oil pressure sensors are the same.

I swapped the oil filter housing(the thing you screw the oil filter on) off the jdm motor and put my original one on, and that solved my problem. Its held on by 3 bolts IIRC, but kind of a pain to reach. I think the problem with the jdm oil filter housing is either its sat for so long and the small circle seals wear or it gets clogged up not allowing as much oil flow as needed.

I also took that sensor off and hooked up an actual pressure gauge. when its cold and first fires up it climbs to almost 80psi, but once its warm it will be around 10 psi at 800 rpm's. and it changes with engine speed, more rpm's higher oil pressure.

 

Test your sender unit/ connection!

 

I do have my original one, I took it off before the engine went to the yard. I don't exactly understand why this would make a difference unless the old one had some sort of blockage. I'll probably do another oil change in another week or so, I would like to have a plan figured out by then.


For the guys that are using aftermarket oil pressure gauges which ones are you using and where are you picking up your pressure reading?

 

If the JDM switch is set to come on at a different pressure than the US-spec switch, it could be causing these issues.

For my gauge, I'm using an Autometer 5727. I just unscrewed the stock switch and installed the sending unit for the autometer in its place.
Since the dummy light comes on only when the switch is grounded, you can just leave the wiring hanging and the dummy light never comes on.

 

Did you have to use any sort of thread adaptor? Or did the sending unit have the same thread pitch? Also where did you mount the gauge? I would want it to be easily visable but I do not want it sticking out like a sore thumb. I have a triple pod on the pilar on my boosted 4th gen and I do not want to do something like that just for one gauge...plus it makes it harder to see when turning left.

 

It screwed right in. looks like 1/8" NPT I guess?

I used a gauge cup thingy and mounted it on the A pillar along with EGT and fuel pressure. a bit ricey, but the stupid fuel pressure was a 2 1/2" or whatever gauge so it wouldn't fit in a pod...
not a great pic, but you can see 'em here.
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/interior...y/IM001890.JPG

 

the autometer gauge I bought came with like 5 adapters, and the directions it came with were pretty usefull I thought. make sure your use some thread seal stuff so you don't leak oil.

I mounted mine below the rear window defrost. From outside the car you dont really see it at all. Its easily visible to you while driving. pretty much only people inside the car can see it.

 

Last week I replaced the oil filter housing with the one from my old engine. I replaced the o-rings that seal the block to the housing and used a new oil pressure switch/sender thing. I am still getting the flickering oil light. I am going to buy a gauge to figure out what is really going on...if I really do have a problem or if something is screwy in the wiring.

How hard are the oil pumps to replace on these engines? I have only replaced the oil pump on my GM 3.4L and that is an over head valve engine, so I am not sure they are set up the same. Anyone have a guide? I don't have a manual for this car yet.

 

For reference, my oil pressure is about 20psi at idle and 50psi while driving. Can anyone concur with those numbers?

 

how does the engine sound?
is it quiet
is there like clattering/slash tapping noise at certain rpms?

 

Depends on oil viscosity and engine temp..
Reference: Mobil 1 5w30... 40k miles on performance rebuild w/ forged pistons. Clevite bearings, stock rods. 'somewhat loose' machine work for quick & easy break in.


cold.. 30-40psi @idle over 100psi at 3000rpm (so I don't run it over 3000rpm until warm to prevent damage to bearings from too much oil pressure)

warm... ~10psi @ idle. 75psi at 4000rpm.

thicker oils = more pressure. thinner oils = less

 

thats why u use thicker oil in summer and thinner oil in winter...

 

well i just learned something today... i always thought you were supposed to go easy on a cold engine so it could heat up evenly, and because the oil just didn't lubricate properly when cold.. i'll keep this in mind from now on.

 

The oil is still flowing, but its film properties and whatnot are different when cold.

BUT.. one of the big issues when cold is that too much oil pressure can do just as much damage as too little.

I've seen bearings get 'washed out' because they had too much pressure.. I've also seen bearings spin because people ran 20w50 and revved it too hard when cold. the oil had so much pressure it lifted the bearings off the seat and then they spun because of the oil film underneath. DOH!


the other issue is constant leaks from too much pressure. damn near everything will leak sooner than they should because of it.

 

It's seems to be quiet most of the time. I ordered a oil psi gauge yesterday so I will report back when I get it installed.

 

well that explains how my former friend that has my 89SE spun a bearing on 2 cars in 3 months Elantra in January08, Probe in March08...) the **** will redline a car even when cold, like it's nothing. I swear if he does that on this maxima, i might be posting from prison from now on......

 

i heard the early Z31s where prone to spun bearing because of running the engines too cold to soon. does that hold any credit? or am i re-telling BS.

i watched a kid slam his focus off the red all the time till it finaly said ****you. "this this thing revs so much higher than a civic" Bang!!! by bye focus! not a good thing to do when your showing off at the quarter mile surrounded by people who know what they are doing

 

i dunno how prone the VG is to spinning bearings.. i just know that he has a habit of spinning them. but after all the work i did to get that car running (stayed up 65hr straight doing an engine swap over the course of 2 all-nighters, while going to work during the day), if he blows it up, i'm gonna kill him.... he hasn't even bothered to change the oil on it yet! and he's been driving it (usually at 100mph on the highway) since september! with conventional oil and a crappy fram filter!

 

some freind! im sure you could get a bunch of ORGers together to give you an alibi

 

we have... its called "Maxus"

 

VGs are prone to spinning when run hard and dry like that.. I've seen lots of Z32s kill bearings from lack of lubrication-- usually from running high lateral Gs on the track or drifting-- but I see it on a fairly regular basis.
I don't know about the VG30E bottom end though. probably not much different.

 

Once you figure out the problem if it's the pump, it's pretty easy with the right front wheel off and splash sheild removed.

 

so I got the Autometer 5727 and installed it. It did not screw right in so I had to use a brass adaptor. The Autometer gauges come with Standard threads for anyone else wondering. I hooked up the signal wire from the sending unit to the gauge and I picked up switchable power and ground from the radio. When I started the car the gauge did not calibrate or anything it just went up one tick mark and stayed there. Is this the way this gauge functions? If so it looks like I don't have any oil pressure. What would cause this? Going from low to no oil pressure? When I first drove the car the oil psi light would only come on when I was stoped and the car was warm. The other day when I drove it the light came on 20 seconds after starting it and continued to flicker....so that's when I parked it until I had a chance to put the gauge on it. Now that the gauge is on I am not getting much of any pressure...maybe a few psi on start up. What would cause this? Oil pump? The engine is still quiet because I did not let it run long at all like this. I could really use some advice. Thanks.

 

Do you have a hand bicycle air pump or compressor with an air pressure guage? If so adjust you pressure @ the regulator to say...50 psi and connect it to the guage and see what your reading is......! I use regular wet guages to read pressure if I don't strust the cars stuff! If you do find that your oil is low simple stretch the oil pressure relief valve spring or put in a longer spring or add 2-3 washers behind th existing spring. Then run it and check your pressure!

 

Its not leaking or anything where you made the connections for the oil line?

Does the needle move at all when rpms change?

 

fire it up. rev it to 2000rpm or so for a few seconds. see if it ever builds pressure.
If not, then you got a problem.
If so, then come back with numbers once it runs a bit and the pressure equalizes out.

 

maybe the capillary tube, whatever its called, that sends the oil to the gauge has a kink in it. Where did you run the line through?

 

they don't have a tube. The autometer gauges use a sending unit that screws into the high pressure side of the oiling system and sends a signal back to the gauge.
http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/a...der~parts.html
(see 3rd one down...)

 

damnit! I don't know why but for some reason I was thinking I had to use the ones with that tube, and thats the route I went. Im so mad at myself.
So with that you replace the stock sensor and then run wire to gauge inside car?