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Moving to sinthetic oil

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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 02:17 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by DanNY
it's the same "base stock" now. whatever else they throw in there is their mix.
mobil tried to sue castrol because their oil wasn't a true synthetic...but mobil lost. so i guess now mobil feels the group III stock is ok to use. cheaper stock...same price = more money for XOM...bastids!

where do you work?
united states patent and trademark office. There's no car stuff laying around here. I was smelling my clothes, shoes, etc....but found nothing..and now the smell seemed to have disappeared. It was kinda weird... maybe it was the big mac i had bought...hymm......
Old Jan 15, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by DanNY
it's a myth on synthetic causing leaks because it's thinner. 5w30 is 5w30 regardless dino or syn. it's the same viscosity

the truth is that syn have more detergents in it. so if there's sludge in your motor it's using that to seal the leaky seals. once the syn oil washes away the sludge it will start leaking.

people blame syn oil messing up their engines and not to switch and etc. with today's newer motors and tighter tolerances syn oil shouldn't burn/leak because it's "thinner".
so it's not a myth that starting to use syn on a 15 + year old engine could cause some leaking, I never said that it will start leaking I said it might so keep a eye on it. A 3rd gen engine is not a newer motor even if it's a VE
Old Jan 15, 2009 | 05:28 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ImmaSquashYou
united states patent and trademark office. There's no car stuff laying around here. I was smelling my clothes, shoes, etc....but found nothing..and now the smell seemed to have disappeared. It was kinda weird... maybe it was the big mac i had bought...hymm......
that's umm..."natural gas"
Old Jan 15, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by vernk
so it's not a myth that starting to use syn on a 15 + year old engine could cause some leaking, I never said that it will start leaking I said it might so keep a eye on it. A 3rd gen engine is not a newer motor even if it's a VE
you said that it would leak because it's thinner which i disagree. people blame syn oils for causing leaks while in fact they reveal existing leaks that was hidden from sludge and crap in the motor.

i also disagree with the motors. the VG engine was ahead of it's time. you don't hear any piston slap in the mornings right? the VG motors were used well into the 90s before they stopped production. the current VQ motor is also based from the VE that the 3rd gen has. both motors were ahead of it's time. this is not me saying that the 3rd gen is the greatest motor ever but these motors were built with tight tolerances.
Old Jan 21, 2009 | 09:30 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
it's the PL24457
Are 100% sure the Part # you wrote is the correct one?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/com...au_pf_dp_chart

According to amazon it won't fit a 1990 Maxima... just asking to confirm I have the right part #
Old Jan 21, 2009 | 10:25 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by rmdl51
Are 100% sure the Part # you wrote is the correct one?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/com...au_pf_dp_chart

According to amazon it won't fit a 1990 Maxima... just asking to confirm I have the right part #
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...Number=PL24457

yea i'm sure. click the "see vehicles it fits" or whatever link....

amazon.com makes babies . true story.
Old Jan 21, 2009 | 11:57 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver

amazon.com makes babies . true story.
What do you mean by that?
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:15 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by rmdl51
What do you mean by that?
lol nothing. i'm just being a goofball.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:53 AM
  #49  
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LOL, I know you were trying to say something funny, but I didn't get it maybe I'm sleeping on my keyboard... I thought you were saying like amazon is a scary place to buy or something like that I was not sure that's why I asked
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by DanNY
yeah the delo and delvac oils got a lot of detergent in it and the audi guys use it. mobil1 changed their name on the label so the 5w40 is now their "truck/suv" oil. if there's delvac or delo in 5w-40 i'll pick it up...but they stock the heavier weights at wally world which is no bueno for me.
I have been running regular delvac (15w40) in my max with no problems for 25k+ miles and i would highly recommend it. Just be sure to let it idle for a few mins in the winter before you start driving. Also, I just picked up fully synthetic delvac that is 5w40.. due to the price, $30 per gallon, i am only going to run this for the road course for the increased heat properties and slightly better lubrication. Otherwise ill stick with conventional. As ive said before.. the reason diesel oil is so much better for old engines is because they have not pulled the heavy lubricants out of it yet, Mainly the zinc. There doing this to gasoline oils because over time if oil consumption goes up it may clog the cat. I care more about my engine than my cat. The heavy lubricants are neccesary for lubricating surfaces such as the cam-lifter and the rockers to valves, plus i feel Its also a lot better for turbos.

Just sharing my research and experience.

Jeremy

Edit: Also another benefit of delvac is that its only 12 dollars per gallon.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by maxmaxima91
I have been running regular delvac (15w40) in my max with no problems for 25k+ miles and i would highly recommend it. Just be sure to let it idle for a few mins in the winter before you start driving. Also, I just picked up fully synthetic delvac that is 5w40.. due to the price, $30 per gallon, i am only going to run this for the road course for the increased heat properties and slightly better lubrication. Otherwise ill stick with conventional. As ive said before.. the reason diesel oil is so much better for old engines is because they have not pulled the heavy lubricants out of it yet, Mainly the zinc. There doing this to gasoline oils because over time if oil consumption goes up it may clog the cat. I care more about my engine than my cat. The heavy lubricants are neccesary for lubricating surfaces such as the cam-lifter and the rockers to valves, plus i feel Its also a lot better for turbos.

Just sharing my research and experience.

Jeremy

Edit: Also another benefit of delvac is that its only 12 dollars per gallon.
dang man.....15w40 is like a deisel weight oil. that stuff seems verrryyyyy thick to be runnin in a engine that reccomends 5w30
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:19 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by fishforlife2007
dang man.....15w40 is like a deisel weight oil. that stuff seems verrryyyyy thick to be runnin in a engine that reccomends 5w30
enh...it's not THAT bad. my buddy runs that on his 993 air cooled.
Jeremy is running turbo so the extra weight will help.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 03:21 PM
  #53  
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15w40 (aka diesel oil) is great for a car burning oil since diesel oils are formulated to resist burning, though it does smell kinda funny when it does.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 11:54 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by fishforlife2007
dang man.....15w40 is like a deisel weight oil. that stuff seems verrryyyyy thick to be runnin in a engine that reccomends 5w30
One of the biggest reasons that manufactures are recommending thinner oils is for the slight increase in mileage. I like thicker oil because it gives you a bit better cushion when your making lots of power. Plus diesel oil is just a better lubricator due to the extra additives.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 06:15 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by maxmaxima91
One of the biggest reasons that manufactures are recommending thinner oils is for the slight increase in mileage. I like thicker oil because it gives you a bit better cushion when your making lots of power. Plus diesel oil is just a better lubricator due to the extra additives.
thinner oil also allows for tighter tolerances which in turn allow for more power and less wear.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 11:02 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
thinner oil also allows for tighter tolerances which in turn allow for more power and less wear.
you mean cuz it's harder to stuff thick oil into a tight space and get 100% surface-area coverage on all the moving parts? whereas a tinner oil can slide right in and coat everything?
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 11:06 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
thinner oil also allows for tighter tolerances which in turn allow for more power and less wear.
For new cars like Hondas/Fords maybe. But not for older Nissans that were build around the 5w-30-ish weights.

I don't think I'd run a 20 weight in a maxima.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
For new cars like Hondas/Fords maybe. But not for older Nissans that were build around the 5w-30-ish weights.

I don't think I'd run a 20 weight in a maxima.
Yea if the 15w40 wasn't lubricating as well as 5w30 id be having problems at 400whp and around the road course. I don't really buy the 15w40 being bad for tighter tolerances. 50w and thicker maybe.. but 40w isn't really that much thicker than 30 weight. Technically if 40w oil will completely coat the bearing and such.. it would have better protection than 30w in that same bearing.

Jeremy
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #59  
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For boost, going with a 40 weight might be a good idea. A few boosted G35 guys are running diesel oils as many of them are still GroupIV stocks. And are available at a good price (as you know already)

I can't remember of the 40 weight is listed in the manual as one of the recommended weights or not. But it also depends on the viscosity rating of each oil. Some have noticed that some 40 weights are closer to a 30 when they are actually measured etc.
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #60  
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Ok, I finally did the oil change this weekend and I have a couple of questions, I did not know if I should drain the oil hot or cold, I was doing some research and all I could find about the difference is the hot oil will drain faster, well I didn't care about how fast it will drain I care more about not gettnig burned, but I don't know if I did wrong changing the oil cold.

One more thing I notice is that I used only 4qt and a little bit more, I can't say it was 4.25 I would say it was a little less, is that ok? I mean I check and recheck my oil level and seems to be ok, but I don't know I rather ask you if I should keep going like this or better put 1/4 more.

BTW, I used the Full synthetic extended performance Mobil 1 10w30, I think I'll be checking how this oil performs, even though the sales guy insist I should use Castrol GTX.

One more question, how often is the synthetic oil suppose to be changed?

Thanks
Old Feb 2, 2009 | 10:42 AM
  #61  
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hot, cold, as you found, doesnt make a difference, in the long run

if the oil level is right, then you are okay. as long as it isnt below the hash marks on the stick.

the sales guy is just that: a sales guy. he is probably paid to say "Castrol", or uses that himself in his car, but that doesnt mean "better"

I change my synthetic every 3k miles, but its supposed to last longer? idk, my car has over 240k miles on it, I am trying to make sure I get the longest run out of it as I can.
if you think the oil will last longer in your car, you can take a sample of it during the next oil change, and have it analyzed.
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