Thanks to all that helped! it runs good now that I noticed that the egr was unplugged.... most anoying part was drilling holes for the pedal, made like 3 templates

 

Congrats..


I want your 300zx wheels..

 

I want a pony LOL...

but I need to bleed the crap out of the clutch..., gotta fix a brake caliper and bleed brakes then it will be ready to pounce on hondas.......................

 

no pics?
c'mon!!!!!

 

good to hear! too bad you didn't ask me for a clutch pedal template! i have one within arm's reach of me right now haha. i taped a piece of paper inside my parts car and spraypainted it from the other side, so it lines up exactly with the stock holes. Oh well, i'll be using it on nc90gxe's car anyhow (is it just e or are all the 5spd swap people in NC lately? Me, Comrade, nc90gxe..)

I'm curious to know what you did for the reverse lights and neutral switch. Do you have to push the clutch to start your car (if so, does it matter if you are in gear or in neutral?) Mine's just setup to where you only have to push the clutch to start it if you are in gear.. i can start it in neutral w/o pushing the clutch.

O and when bleeding the clutch, if you used the block/loop junction, you have to bleed it first, then the slave cylinder.

 

I just wired it up to where it runs, I dont need the clutch in to start it, none of my 300zx have so Im used to it not being there, ive never started it in gear on accident... I might tackle reverse light some day, who knows... My daily driver doesnt have them because its a turbo trans in a non turbo 300zx and I hate wiring... im ghetto

But when bleeding, you bleed that mess of lines and block first, then the slave cylinder?(exactly what you said) but making sure. my pedal feels like junk, but it works when to the floor, still need to cut my brake pedal but they bairly touch eachother, gotta wait for my friend to bring over his sawz all, I wasnt about to change out the brake pedal, ive heard it is a pain...

And yea I got all my parts from charlotte, its about 20 minutes from me. all the swaps are near here because people here do WORK

Oh and what I did was take some cardboard paper, thick paper... cut 2 holes, put the clutch pedal through that, then wraped the paper over the top to where that top bolt is, cut a hole there. then bolted the paper up top, bend it out to the firewall to where I think was right, spray paint for the 2 holes. I drilled them out, then stuck 2 bolts in backwards from the engine bay, placed my orignal template with the clutch cylinder hole in it, spray painted that, then cut it out with a 1.5 inch hole saw, iirc. It wasnt perfect, but its in there now and not going any where.

 

For the clutch bleeding, just remove the block and all that extra hose crap so it's a straight shot from MC to SC. makes bleeding a TON easier.

 

the under-hood wiring is EASY EASY EASY. remember the harnesses you unhooked from the a/t? well one of them has the same 2x2 grid as the plug on the manual tranny. pop the rear cap (where the wires are) off, and with an eyeglass screwdriver or a really long sewing needle, and reach into the face of the plug and push the retainer tabs inside there down and pull the wires out of the back of it. Then go to the other 2x3 plug next to it, and get the thick green and the red/black (not yellow/black as in the picture) out of that one, and holding the connector like this, put the red/black and thick green wires into the right-hand column (if you did have a clutch start switch you would put the brown wire into the top of the left column). Technically it doesn't matter which one's on top and which one's on bottom.... left or right column is all that matters.

remember, in all pics, substitute red/black for yellow/black, cuz i was going off bad info when i took the pics

 

can the stock hoses reach each other? what is the block and all the hoses for?

 

hep, they reach just fine. my car has been like that since may of last year. if you look at your stock rubber hose and notice how it makes a u-turn and starts pointing back at the front of the car... basically it's just controlling the slack.

the block and hoses are basically a dampening device, or something like that. Makes the pedal feel 'softer' or something like that.

 

Did you remember to change the carrier bracket?

 

Hey, I'm in GA!

good work, comrade!

 

I have it in the car, not on it. I have to drive it over to my friends to use my hoist that is there, there is no way I could jack up the engine.

 

just a scissor jack would work (with a block of wood on top) under the oilpan. that's what i'm doing on sam's car.. cuz i reeeeeeeally don't feel like dragging my hoist across town to his house. unhook xmember, remove rear mount from block, swap bracket, replace stuff, done. it's a LOT easier that way than on a hoist like i did with my car..... on the hoist my engine was floating around and really unstable, esp when trying to break the bolts loose that had been fastened without removal for the last 15 years (ie, rusted in place). But using a hoist with the tranny already installed and mounted should prove to be alot better than the way i did it (tranny was not on the engine).

 

+1

I would also like to add that a stainless steel clutch line is a good idea and improves the feel of the clutch.

 

i took my crossmember off today to improve my super-duper-ghetto motor mounts, and while it was out, i thought of you (comrade) and snapped some pics to show you the way to change the axle bracket w/o a hoist.

scissor jack + wood supporting oilpan. crossmember removed (fluid puddle not related to xmember removal btw)

easy access to rear mount bracket and axle carrier bracket once you remove the passenger side axle. no cursing. not having to use a bulky engine hoist with its support arms perpetually in the way = win.