1993-VG30E-GXE

Production date of my VG is 8/1992 - with 1993 as the year on the sticker. I notice there is a price difference between the dot colors. Can I buy the cheaper yellow dot for this particular VG (GXE)?

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

Spray pattern, yada yada. Try it and let us know how it runs.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I know that OE/Bosch still show 2 different ones, but the rest of the aftermarket shows only 1. Technically you can swap between them and the car will still run, beyond that I have no 100% certainty. if you are swapping all 6 then you can use any one from a 93 (VE included) and the car will run fine.

Garf

iTrader: (1)

why will it work if you swap all 6 injectors but not just 1?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i'm running some used (but all 10.9ohm) 4th gen injectors in my old 93-94 VG fuel rail. 500 miles on them so far, everything works great. but supposedly they have a higher flow rate, meaning i'm running a tiny bit rich in open loop conditions, but of course the 02 sensor compensates in closed loop. my first tank since installing them was 24.3mpg (150mi flat highway, 50mi uphill highway, and 130mi HEAVY mountain driving)

just a thought. $50 for all 6 plus another $20-30 for o-rings. and greeny will vouch that the VE/VQ injectors last longer than the VG ones.

so they are a matched set. that way if there are actual differences between them you won't have one odd cylinder.

1993-VG30E-GXE

I checked - the original ones that came with the car are green dot. All are pink top. The 2 that a garage repaired, were reman., and they are blue dot...they've been working for the last year. They all ohmed at 11.6 to 12.3, except one of the original green dots #4, showed nothing on the multimeter, not even 0.1. I'll try the new cheaper yellow dot Bosch one and report back if I notice it's still horribly rough after the new one.

I tried the Power Balance Test from the Diagnostic section EF & EC - 59, but each injector that I unplugged, then started the car, I noticed no change in engine speed. It felt the same every time. I couldn't do the EGR Valve test because I don't have the vacuum pump....if there's another way to do it, please do tell. Also, I snapped the bloody tab off one of the injector harness connectors, so now it doesn't click shut - don't know what to do about that...can I go cut some out of the JY, then re-install my original wires into them without soldering anything?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

meh, if it's not sliding off easily don't worry about the broken thumbtab. if you feel the need to, just recheck that it's seated once a week (hell you'll notice if it starts misfiring from coming loose)

the powerbalance test is usually inconclusive if you shut the car off between each cylinder, and also, you need to unplug your IACV before doing it so that the car cannot compensate the idle. i did my powerbalance test with the car running the whole time

1993-VG30E-GXE

Cool man - thats good to know about the IACV - too bad the manual didn't mention that in the steps, I basically wasted all that time of starting and stopping. I was afraid to do it with the car running because the manual says under EF & EC - 4 Precautions....not to unplug while running, but then in the back of my mind I thought how am I going to remember the sound or feel once I turn it off.

I bought the yellow dot one tonight - it's expensive with all the O-rings & top & bottom insulator - didn't know if i neeed these insulators, but I didn't want to chance it - it came out to $138.00 CDN incl. shipping. That's REALLY costly if I were to do all 6, which I won't - i'm just going to do them as they break. Worst part is, right after I hit the checkout button, I forgot to buy the bloody lower intake collector gasket.