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Would this cause a starting issue?

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Old 05-02-2009, 12:39 PM
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Would this cause a starting issue?

Got my dad's Snap-On scanner hooked up to the maxima to see if it would pull of any codes. Would this cause my car to have starting issues?



How hard do you think it would be to replace it, considering it's located underneath the exhaust manifold...in the rear
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:50 PM
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they put them under the exhaust manifold on the VG?
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:54 PM
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I dont think it would cause starting issues. The detonation sensor would affect the performance and possibles mileage due to retarding the timing. I dont think the computer takes it into the equation during startup
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Old 05-02-2009, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dhunterx
Got my dad's Snap-On scanner hooked up to the maxima to see if it would pull of any codes. Would this cause my car to have starting issues?



How hard do you think it would be to replace it, considering it's located underneath the exhaust manifold...in the rear
i wouldn't think it's gonna cause startup issues. i forgot to plug mine in when i swapped my engine, and the car got crap MPG but otherwse was fine. to change it you will need to remove the passenger side axle and the rear motor mount and bracket. meaning you have to drain the tranny too.

Originally Posted by maximaman1313
they put them under the exhaust manifold on the VG?
yea, it's under cylinder 1 or 3. and the oil pressure sender is a little more toward cylinder 3 or 5, and the filter is past that.
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Old 05-02-2009, 04:17 PM
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a bad k/s shouldn't cause any hard starting issues..Hows the tune up on the car?
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:50 PM
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Caped- I gotta go through all of that **** just to get to it? Think it'd be any easier on a lift?

Greeny- The engine went through a minor overhaul about 6-7 thousand miles ago. Plugs, wires, filters still relatively new. I've posted my problem in the Newbies question thread before. Basically my car runs flawlessly, no idle issues and it runs strong. What I'm experiencing is a harder time starting it up. Before I changed all 6 of my injectors with new OEM Beck Arnely injectors, the car used to start up almost instantly when I turned the key; less than a second. Now it takes a few seconds to get it started- it has no problems running, just starting. And the extra cranking has put a strain on my battery since it has died on me twice (granted the time between each death was in a span of several months, and an all night charge kept the battery running fine) but I'm baffled at what is causing my issue. I've checked for any cracked hoses and replaced them, looked for loose connections and to no avail the problem persists. We ran the scanner in hopes of finding a code to the source of the problem, but it seems like it won't solve my cranking issue.
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dhunterx
Caped- I gotta go through all of that **** just to get to it? Think it'd be any easier on a lift?

Greeny- The engine went through a minor overhaul about 6-7 thousand miles ago. Plugs, wires, filters still relatively new. I've posted my problem in the Newbies question thread before. Basically my car runs flawlessly, no idle issues and it runs strong. What I'm experiencing is a harder time starting it up. Before I changed all 6 of my injectors with new OEM Beck Arnely injectors, the car used to start up almost instantly when I turned the key; less than a second. Now it takes a few seconds to get it started- it has no problems running, just starting. And the extra cranking has put a strain on my battery since it has died on me twice (granted the time between each death was in a span of several months, and an all night charge kept the battery running fine) but I'm baffled at what is causing my issue. I've checked for any cracked hoses and replaced them, looked for loose connections and to no avail the problem persists. We ran the scanner in hopes of finding a code to the source of the problem, but it seems like it won't solve my cranking issue.
well it's not like it's something that's designed to be changed yearly.. otherwise it'd be easier to get to. anyhow as long as you can support the engine properly while it's on a lift, go for it.

unbolting the rear engine mount is not exactly easy for a first timer... the upper bolt is sortof hard to get to, and the bottom ones are partially blocked by the suspension and the ypipe... so just be patient and try not to yell too much.
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
well it's not like it's something that's designed to be changed yearly.. otherwise it'd be easier to get to. anyhow as long as you can support the engine properly while it's on a lift, go for it.

unbolting the rear engine mount is not exactly easy for a first timer... the upper bolt is sortof hard to get to, and the bottom ones are partially blocked by the suspension and the ypipe... so just be patient and try not to yell too much.
Fortunately my dad has been a mechanic longer than I've been alive, so there's no doubt we won't be able to access the sensor. And if anything, removing some suspension parts will give me an excuse to repaint my calipers
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dhunterx
Fortunately my dad has been a mechanic longer than I've been alive, so there's no doubt we won't be able to access the sensor. And if anything, removing some suspension parts will give me an excuse to repaint my calipers
well the suspension part in question is the right side control arm-to-body gusset, which is what the crossmember bolts onto in the rear. You don't have to remove it... it just makes it slightly trickier to remove the rear mount off of the crossmember since you can't slide a closed-ended wrench over the nut.. you have to use an open wrench.
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Old 05-03-2009, 05:09 AM
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If you get it started then shut it off will it start right back up or do the same thing? I experienced something similar with leaking injector o-rings. The system loses fuel pressure and takes a bit to build it back up. The longer the car sat the longer it took to start. I point this out because you said it happened after your injector change. Smell gas? Can you see any around your injectors? OEM or aftermarket o-rings?
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Old 05-03-2009, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Reizy
If you get it started then shut it off will it start right back up or do the same thing? I experienced something similar with leaking injector o-rings. The system loses fuel pressure and takes a bit to build it back up. The longer the car sat the longer it took to start. I point this out because you said it happened after your injector change. Smell gas? Can you see any around your injectors? OEM or aftermarket o-rings?
O-rings on the injectors were replaced with OEM ones, and none of them are leaking. When I start it up and turn it off, it's a little quicker to start back up again. It doesn't feel like a fuel issue; I turn the key to ON to let the fuel pump get a headstart and it still takes a while to crank up. My only guess is that it's something electrical.
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