Would this cause a starting issue?
#1
Would this cause a starting issue?
Got my dad's Snap-On scanner hooked up to the maxima to see if it would pull of any codes. Would this cause my car to have starting issues?
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q296/Dhunterx/photo-2.jpg)
How hard do you think it would be to replace it, considering it's located underneath the exhaust manifold...in the rear
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q296/Dhunterx/photo-2.jpg)
How hard do you think it would be to replace it, considering it's located underneath the exhaust manifold...in the rear
![goofy](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/goof.gif)
#4
yea, it's under cylinder 1 or 3. and the oil pressure sender is a little more toward cylinder 3 or 5, and the filter is past that.
#6
Caped- I gotta go through all of that **** just to get to it? Think it'd be any easier on a lift? ![Oh noes](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ohnoes.gif)
Greeny- The engine went through a minor overhaul about 6-7 thousand miles ago. Plugs, wires, filters still relatively new. I've posted my problem in the Newbies question thread before. Basically my car runs flawlessly, no idle issues and it runs strong. What I'm experiencing is a harder time starting it up. Before I changed all 6 of my injectors with new OEM Beck Arnely injectors, the car used to start up almost instantly when I turned the key; less than a second. Now it takes a few seconds to get it started- it has no problems running, just starting. And the extra cranking has put a strain on my battery since it has died on me twice (granted the time between each death was in a span of several months, and an all night charge kept the battery running fine) but I'm baffled at what is causing my issue. I've checked for any cracked hoses and replaced them, looked for loose connections and to no avail the problem persists. We ran the scanner in hopes of finding a code to the source of the problem, but it seems like it won't solve my cranking issue.
![Oh noes](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ohnoes.gif)
Greeny- The engine went through a minor overhaul about 6-7 thousand miles ago. Plugs, wires, filters still relatively new. I've posted my problem in the Newbies question thread before. Basically my car runs flawlessly, no idle issues and it runs strong. What I'm experiencing is a harder time starting it up. Before I changed all 6 of my injectors with new OEM Beck Arnely injectors, the car used to start up almost instantly when I turned the key; less than a second. Now it takes a few seconds to get it started- it has no problems running, just starting. And the extra cranking has put a strain on my battery since it has died on me twice (granted the time between each death was in a span of several months, and an all night charge kept the battery running fine) but I'm baffled at what is causing my issue. I've checked for any cracked hoses and replaced them, looked for loose connections and to no avail the problem persists. We ran the scanner in hopes of finding a code to the source of the problem, but it seems like it won't solve my cranking issue.
#7
Caped- I gotta go through all of that **** just to get to it? Think it'd be any easier on a lift? ![Oh noes](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ohnoes.gif)
Greeny- The engine went through a minor overhaul about 6-7 thousand miles ago. Plugs, wires, filters still relatively new. I've posted my problem in the Newbies question thread before. Basically my car runs flawlessly, no idle issues and it runs strong. What I'm experiencing is a harder time starting it up. Before I changed all 6 of my injectors with new OEM Beck Arnely injectors, the car used to start up almost instantly when I turned the key; less than a second. Now it takes a few seconds to get it started- it has no problems running, just starting. And the extra cranking has put a strain on my battery since it has died on me twice (granted the time between each death was in a span of several months, and an all night charge kept the battery running fine) but I'm baffled at what is causing my issue. I've checked for any cracked hoses and replaced them, looked for loose connections and to no avail the problem persists. We ran the scanner in hopes of finding a code to the source of the problem, but it seems like it won't solve my cranking issue.
![Oh noes](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ohnoes.gif)
Greeny- The engine went through a minor overhaul about 6-7 thousand miles ago. Plugs, wires, filters still relatively new. I've posted my problem in the Newbies question thread before. Basically my car runs flawlessly, no idle issues and it runs strong. What I'm experiencing is a harder time starting it up. Before I changed all 6 of my injectors with new OEM Beck Arnely injectors, the car used to start up almost instantly when I turned the key; less than a second. Now it takes a few seconds to get it started- it has no problems running, just starting. And the extra cranking has put a strain on my battery since it has died on me twice (granted the time between each death was in a span of several months, and an all night charge kept the battery running fine) but I'm baffled at what is causing my issue. I've checked for any cracked hoses and replaced them, looked for loose connections and to no avail the problem persists. We ran the scanner in hopes of finding a code to the source of the problem, but it seems like it won't solve my cranking issue.
unbolting the rear engine mount is not exactly easy for a first timer... the upper bolt is sortof hard to get to, and the bottom ones are partially blocked by the suspension and the ypipe... so just be patient and try not to yell too much.
#8
well it's not like it's something that's designed to be changed yearly.. otherwise it'd be easier to get to. anyhow as long as you can support the engine properly while it's on a lift, go for it.
unbolting the rear engine mount is not exactly easy for a first timer... the upper bolt is sortof hard to get to, and the bottom ones are partially blocked by the suspension and the ypipe... so just be patient and try not to yell too much.
unbolting the rear engine mount is not exactly easy for a first timer... the upper bolt is sortof hard to get to, and the bottom ones are partially blocked by the suspension and the ypipe... so just be patient and try not to yell too much.
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
#9
well the suspension part in question is the right side control arm-to-body gusset, which is what the crossmember bolts onto in the rear. You don't have to remove it... it just makes it slightly trickier to remove the rear mount off of the crossmember since you can't slide a closed-ended wrench over the nut.. you have to use an open wrench.
#10
If you get it started then shut it off will it start right back up or do the same thing? I experienced something similar with leaking injector o-rings. The system loses fuel pressure and takes a bit to build it back up. The longer the car sat the longer it took to start. I point this out because you said it happened after your injector change. Smell gas? Can you see any around your injectors? OEM or aftermarket o-rings?
#11
If you get it started then shut it off will it start right back up or do the same thing? I experienced something similar with leaking injector o-rings. The system loses fuel pressure and takes a bit to build it back up. The longer the car sat the longer it took to start. I point this out because you said it happened after your injector change. Smell gas? Can you see any around your injectors? OEM or aftermarket o-rings?
![got me](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/ne_nau.gif)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sctludwig
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
8
09-01-2022 01:32 PM
Maxima30
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
2
09-07-2015 06:13 PM
trungg86
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
09-04-2015 04:58 AM