OK Im trying to do this stereo re-wiring myself as a temporary fix .................

I have the Clarion FM Diversity System .... The LED Display doesnt light up but the radio works, have sound from my front speakers ... no sound from my rear speakers...... My basic understanding of how the stereo system works is the system sends the sound to the amp and the amp delivers the sound to the speakers? What Im trying or wondering if I can do is:


Before I start cutting/splicing any wires ......do i disconnect the battery?

#1. Just need to get a new head unit altogether

#2. Can OR HOW do I bypass the back amp in the trunk, if I can which wires leading to the amp do I splice directly to the back left speaker wires and which wires do i splice leading to the amp directly to the back right speaker.


Im thinking for the right speaker I connect the org wire going into the amp to the org wire to the speaker but what 2nd wire to connect and ....but am confused about the left ......

#3. If the back speakers are blown can I do #1 above to new speakers.

#4. Better suggestions

I have a wiring diagram and a picture of the type of amp I have in the back ... so if you could tell me which wires to connect to bypass the amp .....

full wiring chart



wiring of back amp and speakers closeup



photo of my amp in trunk




photo of my amp in trunk

 

Get rid of the whole stock system, they are not worth fixing..Hit up ebay or wallyworld for aftermarket stuff..

 

In the distant future I will probably just take it in and get a new system installed BUT in the meantime as a temporary fix .......

lets say that the rear amp is blown or not working but the rear speakers are good ... Using the electrical diagram if I can bypass the rear amp, which color wires leading into the amp would I connect to the + and - wires of the left speaker and which color wires leading to the amp would i connect to the + and - wires to the right speaker.

 

+1 what greeny said.


I ran all new wiring to my all new speakers, deck, amp, and subs.
Its not worth it to use/bypass the rear amps IMO

also running wires from deck directly to speakers will help you solve whether or not your deck is bad

 

here is info I copied and pasted from Craig Brace's webpage, lots of usefull info from that guy.

http://www.geocities.com/craigbrace/

go to site, click How To. Then go to replace head unit and speaker wiring info.

Check the stickies out

NEW SPEAKER INFO
Check out my speaker replacement page for install instructions.
Here's what Matt Blehm (a maxima audio expert) said about wiring the speakers for the Non-Bose (ACTIVE SPEAKER) components.
once you remove the amp, you'll have a connector with a dozen or so wires. the ones you need to connect are:

Large/ Small
----------------------
Green/ Black-pink
Yellow/ black-yellow
Orange/ Orange
Blue/ Light Green

For particular left/right speaker identification, James Lofton (Jaybird180) supplied this info for me recently.
Yellow L+
Yel/Grn L-
Green R+
Lg Orange R-
These are the same wires you unplug from the amp. just cut them about 2-3" away from the end of the connector, so you can reconnect the amp whenever you sell the car. There will still be a few wires left on the connector (power, ground, etc) just leave those connected to the thing, that way you don't have to worry about loose power wires hanging around back there. It will all seem a lot clearer when you get back there inside the trunk. btw, the easiest way to do this is to just grab a handfull of butt connectors and get on your back inside the trunk. just leave a leg hanging out so someone doesn't come along and shut you in!
As for BOSE speakers,
if you look at the amps, there is a connector going in that has 4 wires going in for each amp, there should be 2 of those wires that are larger -one black ground and one red power for the amp the other 2 wires going into are the speaker signal wires; they are differnt colored stripes for each side, but in general the white/any color stripe is +, and black/any color stripe is - on one of the speakers the wires are red, black big ones (amp + and -) and white (no stripe), black(no stripe) thinner ones (speaker + -), just be sure to use the thinner black wire
so basically you need to splice the speaker +,- wires (the thin ones) from the harness into the +,- of your new speakers and that's it then when you wire the harness to the head unit, just use the normal harness you can buy from Best Buy, Crutchfield or wherever and wire the radio according to the colors it tells you (match the radio's +12V wire to the harness +12V, radios front right + speaker to harness front right + speaker, etc)

 

OK maybe im sounding too technical ..Im not trying to rewire my radio system from the head unit .. im just wanting to splice into the wires in the trunk leading into my amp to bypass the amp and directly connect those wires to my current rear speakers to see if the speakers will work wehn the radio is turned on and if they dont work I want to directly connect the wires leading into the amp to 2 new speakers.... but i jst need to figure out what color wires leading into the amp do i attach to each speaker directly.....

I'll read the info you provided above about what wires to cut leading to the amp and yea I was going to leave enuff slack to reconnect..... I think im getting close to finding the answer.

 

if you bypass the amp, and use another amp, you will blow the speakers.

save yourself a headache and go to walmart, get some roadgear speakers for $20.
then bypass and amplify those.

either way, you are either buying speakers, or going without sound.

 

Are you just wanting to check and see if your rear speakers are working, or the rear amp? either way, a multimeter will take you a long way to figuring that out. speakers should read 4-8ohms DC. Also check voltage at the amp and see if it's actually getting 12VDC.


If you're too cheap to buy a multimeter and have the proper tool, then do as quoted above- cut and splice the wires listed there. That will connect the rear speaker wires from the back of the head unit directly to the rear speakers.
The same thing is posted on my website (which Craig quoted in his above..)
http://blehmco.com/faq/rear_amp_bypass.txt

The problem is that the stock head unit only provides a line-level (low voltage) output to the rear speakers. Thus if you connect the stock head unit this way, you won't hear anything out of the rear speakers even without the amp.

My suggestion is to just break down and buy a new head unit. pick up a Diversity FM antenna adaptor and a $10 wiring harness adaptor and plug it all in. bypass the rear amp as linked above. If the rear speakers still don't work, then buy some new ones and call it a day.

 

Well I used my left or driver side rear speaker to test with and I spliced the yellow and the yellow green wire directly into the rear speakers and got no sound and then connected the wires to a speaker that i knew worked and still no sound ...so i was done splicing and covered the split wires back up!

I will go the route of either getting a system installed at a car stereo place or get all the supplies needed to connect everything, thought the rear speakers would work with the direct wiring method....

 

I have several adapters still floating around for any one who is looking (antenna and wiring)

 

You really don't read, do you?

 

fotoman read that quote again and again

all u have to do it get a new aftermarket head unit and a harness from any car audio shop and bypass the stock amps...u will be all set...simple enough?

 

Yes Yes Yes Thank yall I finally got it ...I read over the long reply and missed the part about not being able to hear anything out of the rear speakers even if i bypassed the rear amp .... until i reread the quotes.... im wasting my time trying to test with this type of factory head unit ... I have a JVC head unit I never installed so I will go get a wiring harness and then test my speakers !!!!

 

the trick i used to bypass my factory amp was to unplug the harness, then take any small battery (i used a AA) tape a wire to the positive and one to the negative and then touch the tips in the harness until i heard a speaker snap, crackle or pop. I then cut the two wires that made the speaker pop and tied those wires into my aftermarket amp.

I just reread the thread my statement only applies for an aftermarket head unit.

 

It would be helpful if the wires were easier to get to without having to get behind the dash or lay up-side down in the trunk ... the wiring diagrams help but were not clear as the wires leading into the amp are not the same color as the wires leading to the speakers. Didnt think it was too complicated but until you actually do it, just didnt want to short circuit my electrical system and didnt know if my rear speakers were actually good or not.

 

Factory = junk. I'd rather have no tunes than try to get the stock crap working. I know if you install an aftermarket head unit and have a Bose stock setup, you can buy a component (forget the name of it) and it hooks up between the head unit and the speakers. This way you can control the gain of the stock amps and tune it to work with the new headunit. You can get this at any car radio dealer. Your stock headunit is probably bad unless someone blew the speakers. I've had two of these 3rd gens and both came with Bose. I ripped out everything and installed new. Good luck

 

Factory = old and broken. when it is still working right it sounds just fine

 

DUDE OH MY DAM !!! All you need to do "like the others said" is get the wiring harness and install the radio. Now for the rear speakers...the amp is only for the rears...so unplug the amp, find the wire colors designated for the LR and RR in the plug. Cut those wires from the plug and run your speaker wire from there to each of your speakers. That is "by-passing" your amp. No need to put the plug back in the amp because it will not cause any problems. I am a certified installer at a stereo shop and I have done this on my own maxima. And despite what one of the guys said about adding aftermarket amps will blow your speakers " he's stupid " ! If anything it will give you more control over your speakers! Check out my car domain page and tell me if you think I know what I am talking about. Good luck....if you need help PM me and I'll get you on track!

 

Ok I will follow your advice I just have to find a store with the harness for 94 maxima will a harness for the 95-2005 nissans work? As thats all they have at autozone. However they dont have the antenna adapter. But I thought the wiring harness was plug n play I didnt know you had to splice wires too ...but keep in mind Im going on something sight unseen before

 

nope totally different plug...and you will need an antenna adapter too. Good luck but you shouldnt need it. Just match the colors up and plug and play. If you get stuck...im here.

 

OK I will keep looking as I would have have been ticked if I bought it and it was the wrongsize .. I will check Best Buy or Car Toys ......

 

if you got patience I have some sitting around doing nothing for sale cheap.

 

Going 2-3 months on bypassed amp stockers.

I blast it sometimes too.

I could care less about the stocks till they blow. I would imagine others the same. but the stocks will probably run at 4ohms for a bit longer than everyone else thinks?

Drivers side does crack sometimes though