Okay so I have been having an intermittent problem. My RF window will roll down fine, but some times I have to push the up button over and over again for it to roll up. Well last night and this morning it will not roll up at all. I tried controlling it from the driver side master switch, and from the passenger (RF) switch and it does exactly the same thing. It goes down fine but does not even try to move when you push the up button. I hear a clicking on the passenger side door panel when I push the button to go up but nothing happens. What would cause this?

My power locks do not work now either, but I have not looked at the time control box (I think that's what it is called) under the dash yet so I am not sure the two problems are related to one another.

Has anyone had these window problems before? What fixed it?

 

You need to replace the d-side window master switch..Been there, done that, twice already..

 

+1

It's a relatively common occurrence for the master switches to go bad...Window master switches and MAF sensors are the two things I try to keep extras of around at all times...

 

Is that the case even if the passenger side switch will not roll it up either?

 

It's remotely possible that the rf side switch is causing the problem, not likely..Easy to check though, just remove one of the rear window switches, plug it in to the rf side harness to test..

 

I'll try that later on. I hope to make it to the junkyard this weekend, so hopefully I can get a replacement. Now I just need to hope it does not rain

 

Throw some plastic over it, or take the interior apart and push the glass up and closed, and jam it there, or tape it. I did both, used my door handle to hold it up, and ****loads of duct tape for support and to seal it, it rained a little overnight and I didnt have any problems.

 

Yeah, I know, that's what I was going to do. I was just really making a joke about it not being able to go up.

 

The angry face at the end didnt really shine the joke through

 

Did you try the master switch AND the switch on the door itself and neither of them work?

Also do what Greeny said, try swapping out one of the switches on the rear door.

 

yes I tried both of them. They both give the same result. I hear a clicking in the door panel but the window will not go up. Only down.

 

Stop trying the switch, you're probably scratching your glass like I did.

In my case, the cable had come off the pulley, I could hear a click, I was hoping the cable would just re-catch.....I should have pulled it apart the first time it failed to close.
Lesson learnt.

 

so you are saying your regulator was screwed up when this was happening?

 

if u tried swapping the rear door switch and the window still moves then its the driver side master switch replace it with a brand new one

 

Im saying in my case, nothing was at fault, the cable had just come off the pulley, trying to open it loosened the cable further, trying to close it tightened the cable where it'd become stuck, and started breaking and scratching glass.

 

I'm having the same problem again.

This time mine is the Rear LH Switch

took the panel off today & me n my friend tested it today with a DVM

We T-pin tested the UP PWR (BLUE/RED) & The DN PWR (BLU/BLK) Wires

There was -10.??mv(don't quote me on that because i briefly remember seeing something but i'm not 100% on that number) on the down side but about 6.8mv on the up side

and my window was all the down (thanks to other my friends ) and i couldn't manually get it back up, so what we did was (luckily we had a switch from our Electronics class), The ground wire of the switch was connected to the DN PWR (BLU/BLK) and the POWER wire was connected to the UP PWR (BLUE/RED) so it pretty much jumped the power throughout both sides and the window went right up once he hit the switch

(That was after about 15 mins of troubleshooting)

So we came to the conclusion that the switch is bad.

but my power locks stopped working awhile ago, so i'm thinking (along with what people are saying in this thread) that it could be the main switch that's going bad..causing all this chaos

 

So I swapped the main window switch and it was still doing the same thing. So I used one of the rear switches on the front window and it went up fine. So I need a passenger side front switch.

On another note I changed the regulators in my rear windows because the windows were very sluggish when going up. Well this made it worse. Now I have to pull the windows up while pushing the button. What would cause this? I have changed regulators before and never had this problem. Hopefully I can get an answer here so I don't need to start a new thread.

 

Did you use new regulators/w motors?

You may have the regulator bound up a little, the mounting screw holes for the regs have some adjustment play in them. If you tightened the all the mounting screws up before rolling the window up, this will sometimes cause binding. Roll the window/s down, loosen the top/bottom mounting screws a little, roll the window up, then tighten the screws back down..Test window/s for proper operation.

 

They were just regulators. No motors

I did tighten all of the bolts while the windows were down. Could that have caused my problem?

When you say top and bottom mounting screws, I assume you are talking about the ones that hold the window track and not the ones that hold the motor assembly?

 

Slow windows on these cars are usually due to weak oem motors, these motors hardly ever die, but they do get slow as hell after 15 years of use..

Yes, this is usually the cause of your issue(having to help the window up)

Yes, the ones on the top/bottom of the regulator track, the motor mounting screws do not effect the up/down track alignment of the window..

 

are the motors the same in all of the windows? Is there a recomended place to get some new ones for a good price?

 

yep, all the same, front and back.. When i have purchased new regs in the past, i get them with new motors. Not sure where you could buy just the motors, the dealer would probably have them, but at what price..

 

motors themselves are available

 

Sometimes it is possible in the RF that the gasket that the window glides thru is off track. Pull the panel and check the window glide. While you are in there change the motor and regulator they are cheap but good on ebay.

 

I am still having this problem. I changed the driver side switch and the window still will only go down. When you push "UP" you can hear it click like the switch is sending the signal but where the contact is being made...its not working. Could it be something in the motor? Any more ideas?

Also I took all the regulators back apart and tightened the bolts once the windows were up. They work a little bit now but I think my rear motors are so weak they just don't work well. They will only roll down about 4 inches but at least I can roll them back up now.

 

I still have not figured out this problem with the passenger side front window. Why would I hear clicking, like the switch is sending the siginal and then nothing is happening? Is there an up/down switch in the motor it's self that could be failing?

Also with my rear windows. I tried changing the motors in them because they were very slow, and I am still having the same result. They will work but very slowly, but it does not seem to be a motor or regulator problem. I don't know if the window has come off track or something because even when it is un hooked from the regulator the window will not fall down, it has to be pushed down. Has anyone else had to deal with this? What was the problem? I'm getting pretty tired of taking my door skins off. Any help is appreciated.

 

It really sounds like the glass isn't in the track. I mean, the fact that it won't fall down on its own should be an indicator of that. Double check and make sure it's in the middle of the rubber/channel, and not sandwiched between the rubber and the metal frame or something. It's easy for it to get misaligned this way. Also check the rubber/channel and make sure it isn't coming apart. It's happened to me before that the rubber split, and gets stuck in between the channel and the glass and essentially creates a rubber stopper in there

 

I'll try to check that later on this evening, if I get home before it's dark. If not then I will check it tomorrow.

 

so my right front window still does not like to go up. As I have posted I have replaced the driver side master switch and the switch on the RF door. I can hear a clicking in the door when I push the button for the window to go up, but nothing usually happens. If I push it enough times it will eventually catch and go up, but it is super annoying. What would this point to? The window goes down fine, and when it actually decides to roll up it goes up at a normal speed with no wierd noises. What could it be? The only other idea I had is that the connection at the motor is trash and I should just swap the motor out.????

 

i probably would.
I at the least would take it out and check for corrosion and rust.

 

that's what I will try then. I know it has some corrosion on it I tried to hit it with the wire bush before I put it back in but it did not do much. I think I may have a narrow wire brush attachment for my dremel tool.

 

back to this again, I would really like to be able to put down all of my windows.

So I swaped out motors today and tested it out. Still only down, will not go up. So I whipped out the multi meter. When the window goes down, the terminal that has the black strip gets ~12v and it goes down with no problem. Now when I push the switch for the window to go up, that terminal with the red stripe is only getting about 8v, and the motor does not spin to go up. So I tested the siginal where it plugs into the passenger side switch to see if it was loosing voltage some where between here and there. I got the same ~8v. So the siginal is being sent but its not strong enough. What regulates this siginal? A relay somewhere?

Any help would be appreciated guys. I'm going to go fiddle with it some more.

 

anyone? Why would I not be getting 12v for up, but I do for down. The constant 12v (white with red stripe is showing a steady 12v. I assume all the window functions use the same ground and that seems to be good. So what gives? What's blocking my voltage?

 

have you compared ohm resistance of a "known good" switch-to-window wire vs the wire path that is giving you trouble? maybe you have a degraded wire between the switch and the motor.. like pinched and partially severed or something

 

No, but I have swapped switches (used a working rear window switch) and it does the same thing. I have swapped main switches on the driver side and it does the same thing. When you push the switch for the window to go up, it clicks, so it is seeing some sort of siginal, it's just not doing what it should.

*Also something else that I forget if I ever mentioned, is that when this problem started is was not this bad. You could push the up switch a few times and it would go up. Now you have to push the up switch over and over again for it to finally catch. I think I will take the swich apart to look at the contacts and any solder joints.

 

if you take the door panel off and disconnect the bolts that hold the glass to the regulator, how easy is it to push the glass up by hand? is the glass itself binding? my window used to get stuck halfway on its way up and i had to just pull it back to keep it from binding in the tracks, which were very very worn out. so new tracks might be in your future if yours happens to be binding at the VERY bottom, rather than halfway up like mine was. a way you can try it is to take pliers (with electrical tape on them so as not to scratch the glass) and grab the tip of the window through rubber flaps if you can, and wiggle it forward and back while trying to raise the window.

 

The thing is, it does it any where. I can roll it all the way down and then it will not come back up. Or I can roll it down one inch and it will not come back up. When it does decide that it wants to roll up (after pushing the up button 8 million times) it rolls up nice and smoothly no matter where the window is in the opening.

 

so have you changed the motor yet? maybe loose wire on one of the contacts inside it? dunno

 

yeah, I have tried several motors. I have a spare master switch that I know does not have all the working functions, but I forget if the passenger side window is a function that still works, because doesn't the "request" from the passenger side window to roll the window up or down still have to go though the master switch?

I found someone else on an xterra forum that is having the exact same problem I am, but he does not have resolution yet either.

I have swapped motors
I have swaped passenger side switches
I have changed the regulators
etc.
I have done most of the normal stuff. I'll see if I can find that extra master switch tonight.

 

Still not working, but I probed around with my multi meter. Also, before I started testing things I swapped out the main switch and that did not change anything, and I also swapped out the passengerside switch and that did not change anything. Then I re grounded the passenger side switch...no change.
**(according to haynes manual for 93-94 maxima)

At the passenger side switch I got these readings:
Green/dot (Data sig)= nothing until pushed from the driver side. When pushed from the driver side it showed 11.5v up.

White (lock sig) = steady 11v

blue/red (up power)= any where from 6.3v to 0v when pushed up, the ready kept changing and this is the funcition I am having trouble with. This is for power up.

blue/black (down power)= 12.1v down

white/red (power) = steady 12.1v


I also took readings at the driver side switch and I can post those if you think it would be helpful.

Suggestions?