Window will go down but not up?
okay, I still don't know what the problem is so I decided to go around it
I wired up an on/off switch and that controls my passenger side window up power. Well now there is a new problem. Then window will not go down!!!! When I push the down button I am getting a 12v signal to the motor. So I tested the window up line. Once I turn the window up switch off there is still a small amount of voltage left in the line...I am guessing this is why the window will not go down. What causes this? How can I stop it? When I let go of the window up button the voltage drops down to about .45volts, from there it goes down really slowly to about .01 volts. How can I get rid of the residual voltage in that line when the switch is not on? Thanks.
I wired up an on/off switch and that controls my passenger side window up power. Well now there is a new problem. Then window will not go down!!!! When I push the down button I am getting a 12v signal to the motor. So I tested the window up line. Once I turn the window up switch off there is still a small amount of voltage left in the line...I am guessing this is why the window will not go down. What causes this? How can I stop it? When I let go of the window up button the voltage drops down to about .45volts, from there it goes down really slowly to about .01 volts. How can I get rid of the residual voltage in that line when the switch is not on? Thanks.
okay, I still don't know what the problem is so I decided to go around it
I wired up an on/off switch and that controls my passenger side window up power. Well now there is a new problem. Then window will not go down!!!! When I push the down button I am getting a 12v signal to the motor. So I tested the window up line. Once I turn the window up switch off there is still a small amount of voltage left in the line...I am guessing this is why the window will not go down. What causes this? How can I stop it? When I let go of the window up button the voltage drops down to about .45volts, from there it goes down really slowly to about .01 volts. How can I get rid of the residual voltage in that line when the switch is not on? Thanks.
I wired up an on/off switch and that controls my passenger side window up power. Well now there is a new problem. Then window will not go down!!!! When I push the down button I am getting a 12v signal to the motor. So I tested the window up line. Once I turn the window up switch off there is still a small amount of voltage left in the line...I am guessing this is why the window will not go down. What causes this? How can I stop it? When I let go of the window up button the voltage drops down to about .45volts, from there it goes down really slowly to about .01 volts. How can I get rid of the residual voltage in that line when the switch is not on? Thanks.
come on....how can I stop this. Would some sort of relay or resistor solve this? I am super frustrated. I took part of the dash out, along with the glove box to get to where I am now. I was hoping some one who understands wiring/voltage more than I do will chime in.
okay, I still don't know what the problem is so I decided to go around it
I wired up an on/off switch and that controls my passenger side window up power. Well now there is a new problem. Then window will not go down!!!! When I push the down button I am getting a 12v signal to the motor. So I tested the window up line. Once I turn the window up switch off there is still a small amount of voltage left in the line...I am guessing this is why the window will not go down. What causes this? How can I stop it? When I let go of the window up button the voltage drops down to about .45volts, from there it goes down really slowly to about .01 volts. How can I get rid of the residual voltage in that line when the switch is not on? Thanks.
I wired up an on/off switch and that controls my passenger side window up power. Well now there is a new problem. Then window will not go down!!!! When I push the down button I am getting a 12v signal to the motor. So I tested the window up line. Once I turn the window up switch off there is still a small amount of voltage left in the line...I am guessing this is why the window will not go down. What causes this? How can I stop it? When I let go of the window up button the voltage drops down to about .45volts, from there it goes down really slowly to about .01 volts. How can I get rid of the residual voltage in that line when the switch is not on? Thanks.It is actually controlled by sending digital pulses on DataLink wire (#29 on windows sw) which goes individually from Master Switch to each other window switch. Applying Batt voltage or ground might cause some movement but I doubt it will work in all cases. There's schematic diagram on page BF-20 of 94 FSM showing their interconnections. Looking at that you can see that only 2 pieces are involved: Master Switch and Window Switch, there's nothing in between. You could check voltage on #30, #21 (+12), #22(Gnd), and motor output (between 24 & 26). The latter should produce 12V but reverse its polarity when you push switch in opposite direction. The #29 is the DataLink wire and I don't think you can see meaningful voltage there.
10kOhm resistor to the ground should take care of that voltage. It is caused by input current leakage, normally you shouldn't leave inputs floating around so that resistor should help. OTOH I'd rather fix the stock circuit.
It is actually controlled by sending digital pulses on DataLink wire (#29 on windows sw) which goes individually from Master Switch to each other window switch. Applying Batt voltage or ground might cause some movement but I doubt it will work in all cases. There's schematic diagram on page BF-20 of 94 FSM showing their interconnections. Looking at that you can see that only 2 pieces are involved: Master Switch and Window Switch, there's nothing in between. You could check voltage on #30, #21 (+12), #22(Gnd), and motor output (between 24 & 26). The latter should produce 12V but reverse its polarity when you push switch in opposite direction. The #29 is the DataLink wire and I don't think you can see meaningful voltage there.
It is actually controlled by sending digital pulses on DataLink wire (#29 on windows sw) which goes individually from Master Switch to each other window switch. Applying Batt voltage or ground might cause some movement but I doubt it will work in all cases. There's schematic diagram on page BF-20 of 94 FSM showing their interconnections. Looking at that you can see that only 2 pieces are involved: Master Switch and Window Switch, there's nothing in between. You could check voltage on #30, #21 (+12), #22(Gnd), and motor output (between 24 & 26). The latter should produce 12V but reverse its polarity when you push switch in opposite direction. The #29 is the DataLink wire and I don't think you can see meaningful voltage there.
Also what ground should I put the resistor on? I have a ground to the new switch that I wired to make the window go up, and I also have the ground for the stock window switch.
I would love to fix, the stock circut, but I could not figure it out. Do you have a picture of BF-20? I only have the haynes manual.
Also what ground should I put the resistor on? I have a ground to the new switch that I wired to make the window go up, and I also have the ground for the stock window switch.
Also what ground should I put the resistor on? I have a ground to the new switch that I wired to make the window go up, and I also have the ground for the stock window switch.
. Seriously - it doesn't matter as long as those grounds connected somewhere to the '-' of the battery you're good.FSM for you:
http://hyper-plaza.com/Maxima/1994_Maxima.rar
I am so fed up with this it's not even funny. My rigs are not working. I really want to fix the stock circut. I am guessing someone has had this problem before. Does the master switch ultimately control the passenger side window going up and down? I could not download the fsm the other day but I will give it another shot now. Now my passenger side window is not even going down, I must have fried something trying to rig it.
I am so fed up with this it's not even funny. My rigs are not working. I really want to fix the stock circut. I am guessing someone has had this problem before. Does the master switch ultimately control the passenger side window going up and down? I could not download the fsm the other day but I will give it another shot now. Now my passenger side window is not even going down, I must have fried something trying to rig it.

You could fry a fuse in the process so that would explain why it doesn't work anymore.
I just checked and FSM is still available. Something must be wrong on your end.
I haven't read through your thread again but I think I recall you saying you did replace the master switch. It's quite common for these master switches to go bad, so it's not inconceivable that you've had two bad master switches.
You might swap in a known-for-sure-good master window switch AND window-specific switch (maybe from a local 3rd genner) just to rule those out. If you're still having problems, then you know the switches can't possibly be the problem, and so then swap in a known-for-sure-good motor/harness. The issue HAS to be with one of those somewhere
I think, master switch can control the other windows but they also should be controlled by their own switches. This is just a guess though.
You could fry a fuse in the process so that would explain why it doesn't work anymore.
I just checked and FSM is still available. Something must be wrong on your end.
You could fry a fuse in the process so that would explain why it doesn't work anymore.
I just checked and FSM is still available. Something must be wrong on your end.
If the master switch is bad it can cause certain windows (or all) to not operate correctly (will not work at all, will not roll up, roll down, or intermittently, etc.), even if the actual switch at that window works just fine and the motor and regulator are working perfectly. I think it might also work "backwards" whereas if a switch on a certain window is bad (or unplugged), the master window switch also will not work it but I don't remember for sure on that one.
I haven't read through your thread again but I think I recall you saying you did replace the master switch. It's quite common for these master switches to go bad, so it's not inconceivable that you've had two bad master switches.
You might swap in a known-for-sure-good master window switch AND window-specific switch (maybe from a local 3rd genner) just to rule those out. If you're still having problems, then you know the switches can't possibly be the problem, and so then swap in a known-for-sure-good motor/harness. The issue HAS to be with one of those somewhere
I haven't read through your thread again but I think I recall you saying you did replace the master switch. It's quite common for these master switches to go bad, so it's not inconceivable that you've had two bad master switches.
You might swap in a known-for-sure-good master window switch AND window-specific switch (maybe from a local 3rd genner) just to rule those out. If you're still having problems, then you know the switches can't possibly be the problem, and so then swap in a known-for-sure-good motor/harness. The issue HAS to be with one of those somewhere
another link to fsm, not compressed, you'll need to dl each section individually.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/
the non-driver switches won't work without the master switch, or if it's really fubar. you may also wanna check the window lock switch; i've inadvertently hit it a time, or a billion, not sure.
not sure if James is right about the backwords effect. don't recall trying (those switches usually work fine
)
Last edited by BenStoked; Jun 14, 2010 at 08:35 AM.
I know for my car I had 2 relays behind my driver door panel. I have a 4thgen by the way. Im not sure if your car has it, but when I switched my relays, My driver was going up and down, the my passenger will only go up. Then I switched it, My passenger side would go down but not up. So I'm guessing you have the relays somewhere in your car. Also you might have a fuse that could of blown. Which you would think it could be the switch and you pay all that money to find out it was a fuse and a relay.
I know for my car I had 2 relays behind my driver door panel. I have a 4thgen by the way. Im not sure if your car has it, but when I switched my relays, My driver was going up and down, the my passenger will only go up. Then I switched it, My passenger side would go down but not up. So I'm guessing you have the relays somewhere in your car. Also you might have a fuse that could of blown. Which you would think it could be the switch and you pay all that money to find out it was a fuse and a relay.
i'm new to the forum as well....i'm also having window problems....my ds front window just totally stopped working..do u guys think i'm gonna have to replace just the switch or the whole switch board for all the windows....
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