Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

Its not as severe, but it definitely needs fixing... gonna see if i can have my friend weld it up for me


Anywho, my motor swap/resto project is moving along - i used up 2 entire cans of gunk degreaser and my power washer to blast away all of the dried up cruddy oil residue everywhere This time around im being more thorough with everything compared to when i did this back in 2004... Pulled out all the misc brackets in the engine bay which i will have powdercoated along with replacing most hardware with stainless. Im sanding down the rusty sections of the brake lines/clutch lines and plan to hit them with some rust enamel. Not going too crazy with this, just do what i can to stop the rust since this is/will be my daily driver, and keep it clean

Quick in-progress pic... cant wait to paint the fenderwells and ditch those nasty 10mm screws/bolts with my new stainless

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I seen the thread title and thought you bought a G35..

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

Blasted rust.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

lol

1993-VG30E-GXE

Just a little tip Maximan - once you dried it all up with the solvent and put the enamel to cover the rust spots, you may want to coat those rusted underneath areas with Maxi-Coat then a heavy grease like a barium type (Barimol) or something that will stick and not wash off. If you leave the metal dry, the rust will just continue through the enamel over time (even 1 yr). That oily residue for example was likely preventing some rusting....you could also try spraying dirty engine oil in some areas....but this stuff just washes off I find, or just seems to evaporate or go away over the winter...grease is the best I've found, cheap and good protection...but it should be one that does excellent in water washout results. Like a Marine grease for example. The ultimate grease for what i'm talking about is called Rod Grease, you can get it in the US for decently cheap...they use it in mining operations, like the Canadian Oil Sands. It's practically indestructible.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

coating everything in grease is only a band-aid. it's bad for your car and the environment as well. it slows down rust, but if you stay on top of the rust BEFORE it gets that bad, then you don't have to resort to crap like that. use proper rust prevention/repair techniques (i.e. stainless steel hardware, anti-sieze on fasteners, and keep the car painted and clean), then you don't have to slather it in grease to keep oxygen off it.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

go get some POR15.

1993-VG30E-GXE

In theory after-the-fact your right, but the problem is once the rust has started you need a way to deal with it. Eliminating it completely or cutting it out, grinding it out is the best, then the POR thing mentioned below...to imitate the original hot dip wax, but many times the rust work may have to wait 6-12 months before you could get to it, or the access is hard, so the grease is a good bandaid. It will practically slow it down to a halt if you apply it right.

I'm curious how the grease is bad for your car?

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

ill look into the POR15, i think you can apply that right on top of rust?

im concerned mostly about the fuel lines near the LR door, theres about a foot long section of rusty fuel lines

i was also planning to hit the wheel wells with the rubber undercoating spray, especially up at the strut tower areas (or POR15 if i decide on that)

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

That would be a Jeff92se

1993-VG30E-GXE

You may be able to put it on the rust, maybe DanNY would know he used it before. The problem is if you don't grind it out with abrasives, your kind of wasting money on any coatings, as the rust can continue underneath, and these coatings aren't cheap - they really add up in cost, as I had to by 2 cans of Maxi-Coat at 12 something each....then the paint (Layers were RUST REFORMER-->ENAMEL PAINT-->MAXI-COAT-->(ROD GREASE only in areas like top of wheel well)...and rod grease on all fasteners since I don't buy stainless steel....

Alot of hrs with the die grinder and abrasives, so if your going to invest that much time, better to do it right.

Oh and if you have the money, buy the POR stuff. The cost was too much for me at that point....I think it was 100 bucks or more for the job on the rear suspension.

So if you leave the rust and just put enamel over it, the rust will just come through in less than a yr. I'm not sure about that Rust Reformer stuff either - I've tested it out on my rear suspension, let's see if it holds up. It's Rustoleum brand and that ain't cheap either - 14 bucks I paid for 1 can. I had to buy 2 or 3.

I would stay away from the rubber undercoating, as it doesn't flow. You'll be surprised but in your front wheel well and rear wheel well there's that plasticy looking coating over the metal, and it looks rust free, but if you start peeling back that black rubbery plastic coating, you'll probably find rust behind in some areas. I'm going to spend countless hrs in the late summer to try and grind all that plastic off, grind the loose rust off, Lead or MIG the areas that need fixing, then coat with the Maxicoat, as a test.

Try the Loctite Maxi-Coat, it's really good stuff...it mimics the original hot dip wax our cars got in the factory.

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

Go to the junkyard and get a rust-free crossmember...

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Looks just like my engine bay. I'm doing pretty much the same as you (although with a JDM engine in my case). I had to replace my crossmember a few years back. Do you have rust on the strut tower (in there with the seam sealer bead above the frame rail)? I can't tell definitively from the pic but it looks like you have that rust too (in your pic you can just make out a bit of it at the very top of your pic in the middle). What are you going to do there? I don't have my engine out yet so I haven't really been able to plan a course of action with it.

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

Well my stance is this - my main concern is to battle the rust both present and future since this car sees everything from 90 deg humid sunny days to snow and salt. Im not AS meticulous appearancewise as id be with the camaro, however i do want to keep it looking clean.

James i know the seams your talking about, certain sections i do have a bit of rust there, ill look more closely in the daylight this week. Ill probably grind it down where its rusted and maybe re-caulk it before i prime/paint it all. the Krylon Rust Tough primer and black paint is what i would use on the engine bay. I didnt remove every single thing in the engine bay (dont want to make this THAT huge of a project, ie removing ABS module and brake lines etc... just yanked out easy and obvious things) Also i would paint the hard brake/clutch lines with said paint. And paint the block on the JDM engine too with the 1200 enamel

^ This is the "cheap" route id take

But ive been looking around the POR15 website and they have this patch stuff that applies like caulking which i may consider for those seams -
http://www.por15.com/PORPATCH/productinfo/PPB/

I figure the motor is out, now is the time to do all this and i may just go ahead with the POR15 3 step thing here on the main page - http://www.por15.com/

I wont go out and buy the POR15 stuff JUST for this car, but if i can find more use for it on my camaro and maybe go in half with my friend whos doing a resto on a 96 Impala, id go for it

nitrous360

That por15 product does work. A buddy of mine used it on a really rusted 87 notchback and man it came out nice. Parts that were close to crumbling were good as new. It's been 5 years and still no rust where he used it.