i just had to replace my slave cylinder last week, the old oe busted on me. I replaced it with a new one and bled the box and then bled the slave, and the pedal felt fine, clutch caught about half way, but the more in drove it like 20 miles it got tighter and tighter and started catching at the very top, reajusted it on the rod at the pedal and it still keeps getting stiffer and catching at the top no matter how much slack i put in it any ideas???

 

bypass the box?

 

i had this problem last year. are you bleeding the junction box too (under air intake pipe) or just the slave cylinder? bleed the junction box first, then the slave. i ended up bypassing my box anyhow, basically, just disconnect the box from the hardline that goes up to the master cylinder, and your rubber clutch hose will reach directly to it, so you can toss the junction box in the trash.

 

Here's my theory..you either didn't bleed the system correctly(i.e./ air still in the line) or you just need to bleed it more..

There is a possibility that the slave cylinder you purchased is defective, especially if it's a reman unit..

 

well what i did to fix the problem he has, is i bypassed the junction, and then i rebuilt the slave cylinder with the $10 kit from Courtesy. i think he might be having the air in his line heat up and expand, causing the pressure in the system to skyrocket. mine pressurized so much that the clutch would start to slip until i parked the car and released pressure from the bleeder. then it would be fine again for as long as i was in-gear and cruising... but i city driving, it would get overpressurized quickly (sometimes as often as 2-3 times an hour)

 

i will try to get the box removed this evening and see if i can get the factory line to reach,does it just hook in to the line that goes into the box??

 

I've had what I thought to be slave cylinder issues for years. I replaced the slave and master cylinder I don't know how many times and bled and re-bled the system and always had recurring issues with clutch engagement/pedal feel/etc.

It turns out it was actually simply the pedal mount at the top (way up under the dash) was breaking out. A couple months back it finally broke all the way out and I couldn't hardly make it home from work. I ended up having to fabricate a new "cap" for it and welding it onto the mount, then I tacked my pedal to that. I was a complete PITA but it's been better than ever ever since.

Anyway, if your problem is just a bleeding or parts issue, you might try a higher quality master cylinder. I've had some before where the hole on the "fork" of the master cylinder was so much larger than the pin that it caused a bunch of slack/hitch/etc. Of course, I've also simply had the floormat ride up and catch the clutch pedal too

 

And if that is the case, I would recommend simply screwing some self-tapping screws into the mount instaed of fabricating anything (much easier, cheaper, and quicker). We talked about it some in this thread - http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...djustment.html

It's a quick check just to look up under there and wiggle it around to see if that bolt has snapped (you'll likely still see the bolt, so wiggle the clutch pedal mount and see if there is play in order to determine if the bolt has snapped).

 

Yeah, I remember that. I think you were actually the one who alerted me to the possible pedal mount problem.

The thing with mine was there was no material whatsoever to put self-tapping screws into. The bolt on mine didn't snap, the mount itself which had the nut welded to it (that the bolt screws into) completely broke out. So, the bolt was screwed into the nut, but the nut and all the material around it was completely broken out so that there was nothing to tap into. Sort of like a box with no top, so I had to fabricate and weld on a new top. Really huge PITA.

 

remove the red stuff, connect the green stuff. you can see that there is more than enough slack for it to reach.

 

Yours sounds like it was worse than mine but mine did the same thing, the metal around the nut broke, and not the actually nut. I luckily had enough metal to squeeze two self-tapping screws in (I tried to get three in but couldn't find any other spots with metal).

 

well i got the lines together but i have another ? what is the ground for that is connected to the bracket that the junction box was connected too? where does it plug in at mine is just laying on the tranny

 

attach it up on the frame somewhere near where you removed the junction box. just find an empty bolt hole from where the box was and bolt it into one of them... it should make a good enough connection through the bolt threads themselves.

 

i see now where it plugs in at i had no clue because it was unplugged and just laying there what does it do? MIne wasn't hooked up so i was just wondering..
also bled the clutch 5 times with the box removed and drove it this morning at its got tight as hell and catching at the top, the bracket is tight and not moving i am leaning toward getting another slave

 

Even if it turns out the junction (block and loopy thing) has nothing to do with your problem, get rid of it anyways...

 

well... my problem went away, but i replaced a LOT of things at once so i dunno precisely what ended up fixing it. i replaced the line, flushed the system with new fluid, rebuilt the slave, and replaced the clutch/pressureplate/flywheel/TOB all at the same time.

 

Why would you rebuild the slave? They're like $15 bucks...(although it's been awhile since I checked).

 

the rebuild kit was $9.. i never checked the price of a new one. i got a bunch of stuff from courtesy so i just included that with it. works fine tho. lubed it with vaseline and put it all together. it was a tighter fit than the stuff that came out, so it's too tight for that return spring to do anything, but i dunno if that even matters with the way i have my pedal set up (no return spring)

 

Hmm...interesting setup.

 

i adjusted the clevis rod so that the pp pushes the pedal far enough up to enable cruise control, but not far enough up to clunk against the stopper at the top. i hated that clunk. now i have no clunk at all.

 

Whatever floats your boat...

 

trust me it was a big improvement over stock.... i just wish my clutch didn't have such a heavy feel to it. if it were a bit lighter, then it would be perfect.

 

pedal is still getting tight , i replaced the clutch master cylinder thursday, and rebled the whole system, and noticed that i could push the plunger on the slave in.
So i adjusted the pedal height and the slack went away,but the pedal is still getting stiff and causing the clutch to slip
What is the problem with this thing, i can't think of anything else to do please help!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

anybody??