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Sputtering at Startup to WarmUp...Hmmm.

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Old 06-01-2009, 10:28 AM
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Sputtering at Startup to WarmUp...Hmmm.

So getting use to my newly purchased 91 VG

Anyways car runs like a top once its warmed up, however it sputters when you first start it. It also smells pretty rich during those first 30 seconds, after that she is ready to go.
I'm thinking I might have a leaky injector.

Last edited by infinitiblast; 06-01-2009 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:19 PM
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i would check the coolant temp sensor first.
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:19 AM
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Update to this issue. Day one I bought the car, it ran like a top. On the way home I filled her with Gas, and I notice the sputter the next morning when I started it. But after the car warmed up it went away.
Fast Forward to Last night and Today.
The car cranks, and its obvious its running on 5 Cyl or at least has one heck of a sputter. Sounds more like an old farm tractor now out the tail pipe.
I'm able to drive it but almost all power is gone.

I put 10 gallons of gas in her, and filled her with Lucas Injector cleaner. Its been worse ever since.

*shrug* time to check those Injectors I guess.
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:09 AM
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Welcome to the injector journey.....good times
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Old 06-02-2009, 07:33 AM
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I'll try to get a multimeter on them tonight. See what we get.
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:09 AM
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Ok just as an update. Ran the ECU Codes,and I have none. Wish I had at least 1 or so, this way I would have more to work off of. Now I get to figure it out via trial and error. Yeah baby!
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:46 PM
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Fast forward a bit. I have installed new Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap, and Rotor.

However in the process of pulling the harness the wires pulled out of the injector harness. Do they sell pigtails for this 91 or should I just try to rewire the existing harness.
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by infinitiblast
Fast forward a bit. I have installed new Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap, and Rotor.

However in the process of pulling the harness the wires pulled out of the injector harness. Do they sell pigtails for this 91 or should I just try to rewire the existing harness.
go chop a few off a junkyard maxima..
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:15 PM
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LOL Finally got around to doing my OHM test, no wonder this baby isnt running right now.

One injector had an ohm reading of 178
Two had 0 readings, and got no circuit sound on my multimeter
1 Had a 13.14
1 Had a 13.4

I'm trying to decide if I want to just buy 4 or go ahead and buy all 6 while she is apart. We'll see.
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Old 06-03-2009, 06:31 PM
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your call, If it was me I would just do the problematic one(s). But I guess if you can afford it do em all.
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by infinitiblast
LOL Finally got around to doing my OHM test, no wonder this baby isnt running right now.

One injector had an ohm reading of 178
Two had 0 readings, and got no circuit sound on my multimeter
1 Had a 13.14
1 Had a 13.4

I'm trying to decide if I want to just buy 4 or go ahead and buy all 6 while she is apart. We'll see.
I'd do all 6 just because of the labor involved to do 1 is basically the same as all 6
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:07 PM
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I second that ^^^^
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:23 PM
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If 4 are gone, then you know the other 2 are on there way. I know they are costly, but do yourself a favor and do them all.
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:18 PM
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Anyone ever use the GB Remanufacturing INC units. They carry a 1 year 15k mile warranty.
http://www.gbreman.com/

Rockauto has them for 34 bucks each plus the core charge.
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by infinitiblast
Anyone ever use the GB Remanufacturing INC units. They carry a 1 year 15k mile warranty.
http://www.gbreman.com/

Rockauto has them for 34 bucks each plus the core charge.
reman = fail. @ j00 for suggesting remans.
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Old 06-03-2009, 10:56 PM
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The 3rd gen fuel injectors cannot be, and are not, either sensibly, or economically, re-manufactured - it just doesn't make technical sense and even if you were stupid enough to attempt to do it, your final cost would be way more that brand new injectors
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:26 AM
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Really? So they are probably just a set of cleaned and bench tested used one versus being rebuilt?
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by infinitiblast
Really? So they are probably just a set of cleaned and bench tested used one versus being rebuilt?
Yes on the first and maybe if you are lucky on the second question
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:57 AM
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I dont trust anything was rebuilt from someone other than myself so... i would go with new injectors
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:17 AM
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I contacted GB Reman via their website contact us form. Usually these go into some hole, and your never get a response. I dont know anything about the company but I do know that within 2 hours they called me, left a voicemail and then when they didnt get me sent an email with the info I requested. Not saying Reman is the way to go, or that they are good. But customer service so far is top notch. Which I wouldnt expect for such a cheap price.

"Our Injectors come with a 12 month 15,000 mile warranty. We remanufacture
only Original Equipment cores and have very few warranty returns. Of the
few that are returned even fewer are actually defective.

Below is a listing of some of the steps in the remanufacturing process:

Clean & Degrease Injector
Coil Resistance Test
Ultrasonically Clean Injector
Reverse/Back Flush Injector
Spray Pattern Test
Leak Down Test
Static Flow Rate Test
Dynamic Flow Rate Test
Lubricate Injector
Install New Components
Package & Seal Injector"
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Old 06-04-2009, 11:03 AM
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Go ahead and buy about 20 of them, you will probably need all 20 within the next year..
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Old 06-04-2009, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by infinitiblast

Below is a listing of some of the steps in the remanufacturing process:

Clean & Degrease Injector
Coil Resistance Test
Ultrasonically Clean Injector
Reverse/Back Flush Injector
Spray Pattern Test
Leak Down Test
Static Flow Rate Test
Dynamic Flow Rate Test
Lubricate Injector
Install New Components
Package & Seal Injector"[/I]
Of all those things posted there, I don't see anything to actually indicate a remanufacturing process.

Unless they can show a photo of an existing production process (plant) where the injector can be physically disassembled into individual items such as the coil, the injector body, the springs, the needle etc before wear is measured and any of those items found to be out of tolerance are replaced with new individual items before reassembly and retesting, I stand by my statement.

I have yet to see anybody advertising remanufacturing of injectors actually doing the deed - those I have tried to visit refused to show their technical setups used to accomplish the task and have without fail proudly only managed to demonstrate their flow benches with lots of tubing, beakers and adequate air conditioning.

In particular I would really like to see anybody replacing eg an open (infinite resistance) coil or a broken needle return spring or the regrinding process of the needle's seat.
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:24 PM
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Another Update.

I know my injectors are on the out. However I noticed a noise that I've not heard from a distributor cap before.

Its sounds like when I rev the car while under the hood, that I have a bowl of marbles in the Under the distributor cap. At first I thought the noise was coming from a valve or something but then I took a screwdriver and placed it right on top of the distributor cap and sure enough it sounds like its rattling around in there.
This is a brand new cap and rotor, I took it apart and it looks fine.

Is this noise normal, and or I wonder if my distributor is going out? and this is also causing the misfire?
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:49 PM
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Here is a quick video of the car idling. I know its dark, I was just really recording for the sound purposes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0a5ra7tUJ4

Its my John Deer VG30.

What kills me is you would think running like this I would get at least one Code...nope, nada...

Last edited by infinitiblast; 06-04-2009 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:18 PM
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Ouch - that things sounds like a single cylinder Petter diesel on a dumpertruck!

You idle speed in that video is rock solid so I wouldn't even consider the dissy to be involved in your miseries - either injector, wiring to the injector, ECU, valves on that cylinder or a hole in the piston (unlikely if you are not already complaining about other symptoms).

If you know you have a funky injector stop farting around and replace it before looking for other less likely causes - beer and gf will undoubtedly appreciate that more
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:26 PM
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I know it how annoying is that, the thing idles perfect....minus of course the put-put-put.
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Old 06-05-2009, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by infinitiblast
Really? So they are probably just a set of cleaned and bench tested used one versus being rebuilt?
your answer:
Originally Posted by infinitiblast
"Our Injectors come with a 12 month 15,000 mile warranty. We remanufacture
only Original Equipment cores and have very few warranty returns. Of the
few that are returned even fewer are actually defective.

Below is a listing of some of the steps in the remanufacturing process:

Clean & Degrease Injectorclean
Coil Resistance Testtest
Ultrasonically Clean Injectorclean
Reverse/Back Flush Injectorclean
Spray Pattern Testtest
Leak Down Testtest
Static Flow Rate Testtest
Dynamic Flow Rate Testtest
Lubricate Injectorclean
Install New Components aka same o'rings that came off
Package & Seal Injectorwell duh"
I have sold many "reman" injectors and talked to many rebuilders about the 3rd gens injectors in particular. It CAN NOT be rebuilt.
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:25 PM
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Ok finally an update to this.

Replaced the front three injectors. Replaced some vacuum lines that were split, and vroom she started right up. Smoooth idle, still has a very faint miss..but I have a few more vacuum lines to replaces.
Took her for a test drive and everything seems good to go.
I've got this intake manifold removal replacement down pat, I had to do it twice because I left an o ring off one of the injectors. Today I had it off, injector out reaplced o-ring and all back together in less then 2 hours.

Now on to the rest of the car.....gas vent hose, suspension, etc.........

THanks for everyones help.
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:59 PM
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sounds good...should of made a write up...i think i got this same prob...
or at least its getting there

just checked autozone ZOMGS $99 each injector

Last edited by ISMELLRICE; 06-14-2009 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:01 AM
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Its not that hard of a job. I think the hardest part of the whole thing was prying the old injectors out, those o-rings were sealed in there tight after 10+ years.
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by infinitiblast
Its not that hard of a job. I think the hardest part of the whole thing was prying the old injectors out, those o-rings were sealed in there tight after 10+ years.
lol atleast yall went through and found out it was just your injectors being the problem lol i went through a whole motor swap before i found out my engine was running on only 2 freakin cylinders lol even tho injectors was pushing 316k lol...thanks stupid *** mechanics here in Fayetteville not knowing sh*t...lol
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Old 08-02-2009, 06:30 PM
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I am bringing this back up to the top. As you know I have replaced the bad injectors.

I still have this intermitent put put put at idle. sometimes lasting for 10 seconds or more.

The car will idle fine for 1 minute or so, then put put put...then stop for a second.

I have checked and rechecked everything I just figure out why its still doing this.

While driving it doesnt exhibit any hickups, or this issue. Only at idle it runs rough.
I've checked all the vacuum lines and replaced any that looked dry rotted.

I've spent 10+ hours over the past couple of weekends and have come up with nothing.

Every injector is reading less then 13Ohm

Last edited by infinitiblast; 08-02-2009 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by infinitiblast
As you know I have replaced the bad injectors.
New injectors or "reman" units?
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:15 AM
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^^^This, and:
Originally Posted by infinitiblast
Every injector is reading less then 13Ohm
are they all above 10?
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Old 08-03-2009, 06:15 AM
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Yep all above 10, and the ones I replaced are all new.

I'm wondering if I have a cracked head, or headgasket leaking causing this issue.

The radiator cap has this rusty looking thick substance around the base of it. Although the fluid looks nice and green. However I have noticed this issue really only rears its ugly head once the car is up to operating temp. Thats when it starts puffing a mix of White/Blue Smoke.
Figured out its fouling out the front center plug. I can clean it, put it back in run the car for 5 mins pull it and its coated with Carbon buildup, and residue.
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