how many of you guys drive your max's in the winter
#2
Now Patrick.. I went through a similar dellima
Thinking.. hmm finish the 90SE up.. then park it on ****ty snowy/rainy days.. and drive the 89 instead.. then I started thinking... now what the hells the point of that.. its a 10yr old 4 door that isn't going to be worth much more if I say.. oh I never drove it in snow.. people are gonna look at me funny.. so I'm going to sell the 89 and drive the 90 everyday.... I'll save the garage space in winter for something that deserves it...... like a Porsche or Ferrari ... muwhahaha... (no I don't either one of these cars.. just making a point.. its a max man.. not a old restored 240/260/280.. or even a newer TT.. Its just a regular 4 door.. if you keep it clean during the winter it'll hold up..... at least nissan used galvanized metal to build em.. unlike my supra..
#6
I drive my car everyday and in any weather. I have yet to see any rust anywhere. I have heard that salt on the roads is bad for your rims but that hasn't bothered them anyway. Just keep the car halfway clean and it should last a lifetime.
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed.
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
I do...but
Two winters didn't leave any signs on the Max. Winter conditions are awful - salt, water+snow+mud, no any ventilation in the garage box. Driving 5 days a week - about 5 (!!?) miles daily. Rare carwash in winter.
Preventive maintenance - anti-rust rubberized spray (2 coats) on the rear wheel archs (and ESPECIALLY on the filler tube) in autumn 1998.
Great?
Regards,
DDD
Preventive maintenance - anti-rust rubberized spray (2 coats) on the rear wheel archs (and ESPECIALLY on the filler tube) in autumn 1998.
Great?
Regards,
DDD
#8
The Max has plastic inner wheel wells to protect the metal, just wash it after snows to get the salt off and don't run your nice wheels (if you still have them) run oem. The only place on my car I've ever noticed rust is behind the back seat in some of the weld spots, go figure.
#9
Yup.. as everyone else has said.. I drive mine all winter too.. I have ZERO rust on body panels, but then again it's been in TX and OK almost it's entire life. pretty tame winters compared to up north.
Anyway, I will still switch back to my OEM rims pretty soon because of the weather- put some all-season tires on them, and park the Enkeis in the attic where they'll be clean and dry.
as someone else mentioned, clean the inside of the wheel wells very well with a power sprayer, then maybe scrub it down with a scrubbrush or something.. mask off springs/struts/good paint/brakes, then spray 2-3 layers of rubberizes undercoater over the entire thing, more around the fuel filler tube.
that's about the best you can do other than to keep it clean..
you don't have to wash and wax it every other day, but keep the worst of the salt and mud off. I usually just run mine by the $0.25 car wash and spray the car down really well once or twice a week.. takes about 5 min of your time.
Just be careful not to hit the windows with hot water.. having a car full of glass shards and soapy water is NOT fun!
Anyway, I will still switch back to my OEM rims pretty soon because of the weather- put some all-season tires on them, and park the Enkeis in the attic where they'll be clean and dry.
as someone else mentioned, clean the inside of the wheel wells very well with a power sprayer, then maybe scrub it down with a scrubbrush or something.. mask off springs/struts/good paint/brakes, then spray 2-3 layers of rubberizes undercoater over the entire thing, more around the fuel filler tube.
that's about the best you can do other than to keep it clean..
you don't have to wash and wax it every other day, but keep the worst of the salt and mud off. I usually just run mine by the $0.25 car wash and spray the car down really well once or twice a week.. takes about 5 min of your time.
Just be careful not to hit the windows with hot water.. having a car full of glass shards and soapy water is NOT fun!
#10
do i just spray the under coat in the wheel wells? or do i spray the body a little bit on the under side? i live in RI now, i think these people put salt on the roads for the hell of it. thanks for your input.
Patrick
Patrick
#11
That undercoat works great, but sticks sometimes when comming out of the can. I'd spray the rear and if you're that concerned, take your fenders off and sprat the inside of them, the inner wheel well is plastic and, I don't think it will rust!
#12
My car has been in Omaha for 10 (almost 11) years. There is no rust on it at all except in the back seat welds (someone already said that). I did have the underside of the car sprayed with a 3M rubberized coating for about $100...I did all of the wheel wells myself, using about 4 cans of that rubberizing stuff (about 2-4 hours and $4 a can)it was really very simple
#13
I think when I got my car it already had been sprayed
with that stuff as well. Being the lady before me bought the car in Germany. So it was prolly done already when she had it since it was being shipped to Germany.
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Undercoats are dangerous sometimes
Hi guys,
Please remember that before undercoating your wheel wells, etc., it's extremely important to clean up and dry the surfaces thoroughly. In opposite the undercoat won't adhere well and the wated will penetrate under the coat.
Imagine the steel sheet wet with the salt solution all the time?
Plus one more useful advice: if you cover some of the nuts and bolts under the body with a plasticine, they will be "new" for years. It works surprisingly good in Alaska as well as in Africa. Again, don't forget the good adhesion.
Good luck,
DDD
Please remember that before undercoating your wheel wells, etc., it's extremely important to clean up and dry the surfaces thoroughly. In opposite the undercoat won't adhere well and the wated will penetrate under the coat.
Imagine the steel sheet wet with the salt solution all the time?
Plus one more useful advice: if you cover some of the nuts and bolts under the body with a plasticine, they will be "new" for years. It works surprisingly good in Alaska as well as in Africa. Again, don't forget the good adhesion.
Good luck,
DDD
#15
Re: Undercoats are dangerous sometimes
YEah I made sure of that...I took the plastic covers in the wheel wells off and cleaned all of the **** off of them with a pressure sprayer and SOS pads....that 3m really works nice...I think that it's a little quieter inside too (maybe just a LITTLE, but not much.) Anyone know where I can find some 205/65/15 blizzaks? I need 2 of them cause they're bald and the other 2 are fine. I used them for about 4 winters, but I think that I will be in need of them because I just found this out the hard way when I put them on for the first time this season. (It snowed yesterday and iced over this morning) Besides tire rack, anyone find a 205/65/15 for less that $60 ea? (Blizzaks)
#16
I think that the tire rack is probably your best bet. They are ussually the cheapest place to get tires. Iget all of mine from there.
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed
92GXE, touring wing, 18” racing wheels, Port&Polished intake, custom intake, custom yellow interior, racing seats, back seats taken out and replaced with subs and amps, NOS kit, Suspension tech. Lowering springs, custom grille, soon to be custom painted and have the whole engine rebuilt for big shot NOS and custom SC and tranny converted to 5-speed
#18
My '94 GXE has lived in Minnesota its whole life. I wax it once a year. Was it whenever I get to it (about 2-3x per month in the winter). I only have a very small spot just now starting to rust in the area between the front and rear door. It's hidden when both doors are shut.
This vehicle was not undercoated nor rust proofed.
I can't complain at all. I live in one of the worst areas for rust, salt, etc. in the nation.
And... I have the corroded wheels to show for it. They have not held up nearly as well as the body.
This vehicle was not undercoated nor rust proofed.
I can't complain at all. I live in one of the worst areas for rust, salt, etc. in the nation.
And... I have the corroded wheels to show for it. They have not held up nearly as well as the body.
#19
yeah my 90SE wheels corroded on me about 2 years ago (discovered this because they wouldn't hold air) and I tried taking them to a wheel repair shop, but they couldn't fix it because they deemed them as "totalled" cause it would be more to fix them then it would be to buy new ones.
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yat70458
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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08-03-2015 01:16 PM