To avoid me having to buy the puller.

I already have the bolt out. It's sliding it off the crankshaft where I'm stuck.

 

i had the same problem when i swapped out my pulley for the UO Underdrive pulley... mine was pretty frozen on also i just sprayed lubricant onto the crankshaft and pulley on the front and the back and just used a flat head, hammer and a little patience and i accually got the pulley to move enough so that i could wobble it side to side enough to get it off.... took about an hour for me and i was pretty frustrated but it eventually gave up.... also try tapping on either side of the pulley with a hammer to try and free it up a little but lubricant is very helpful!

 

Thanks bro for the assistance. I'll try those methods. Do you think I should avoid heating it with the acetylene air gas torch?

Time to start car jobs soon. Getting excited for tonight.

 

yes DO NOT HEAT it, dont know bout the 3rd gens but vq have rubber inside the pulley and if you heat it up it can lead to fail

 

in addition, if you use any flame after soaking with any penetrant, you could risk catching everything under the hood on fire
ibifyoudowechangyournameto

 

yea i would avoid using fopen flame at all cost especially being this close to ur motor... just keep using lubricant and keep trying to work it back and forth untill it frees itself

 

Never mind guys, I give up. I tried and tried. Plus, that AC Compressor Idler Pulley bracket thing, I can't get the bottom bolt off. All I could fit was a 1/4" ratchet in the space, and I couldn't get leverage.

I've decided i'm just going to do the overhaul now, so tommorow i'll start removing everything to transfer it to the stand. My plan was to wait until SEPT so I could replace the steering rack while the engine was out too, but i'll have to ditch that plan and just use the old steering rack.

I tried with a pry bar and even a chisel to pry between the oil pump housing and the pulley, but it wouldn't budge. I'm just going to have to get a puller and deal with it when it's on the stand.

 

use a dead hammer dude it will come off and won't mess up your pulley like a mallet will.

 

It's weird that you're having problems getting it off. IIRC all the crank pulleys I've removed from my VE's have basically slid right off. Getting the ASP lightened pulley on is the only issue I've had

 

same here (pulled mine off, once for t-belt), but we live in the south, where rust doesn't grow on everything, even plastic. canadians get more snow average a day than we do in a year, so there is more anti-ice stuff (usually salt and sand) on the roads, which speeds up the rusting process.

 

Sorry to hear you couldnt get it off...but seeing how you also couldnt turn the adjustment bolt on the idler tells me that you have some bad winter conditions...a 2-3 jaw puller is your best bet, and good luck with the overhaul.

 

Cool guys. I'm kind of glad actually i can't get it off. This way it forces me to do the overhaul now. A Nissan mechanic tells me not to run the car anymore, that it's possible, although nothing is certain, that my oil pump is dying. He told me to compare the cylinder heads visually when I remove the covers to see if it looks dry on the side where the rattling is. I'm wondering too if there is possible sludge build up in the oil galleries that could cause poor oil flow & distributor was first to go as the bearings may have simply burned out. I forgot to tell you guys that when I took the old broken distributor out, the end seemed quite dry.

I also forgot to say, that my odometer was stuck for a number of yrs so this VG engine actually may have over 400 or 500K on the motor, in severe city driving & Canadian winters. I think it's long over-due to be done.

I'll take some internal photos so you can see how gunky it may look inside, once I start dismantling it.

 

Is yours the VG engine? If so, I got mine off with a two bolt puller and a thick shaft device pushing against the crank snout. Of course, mine is a Florida car, but it came off pretty easily. And, it came off with the engine in the car, so I'm confused why it's not working for you. I remember I got the puller from Advanced Auto Parts and it wasn't too expensive, maybe $12-$15.

 

sorry never did it myself. I know Kyle pulled the UDP off my VE on the street with no issues.

 

Sand your crank down and check it and the pulley for burs! Clean them up and don't forget your anti-seize once you get pass all the B.S.

 

OK, i'll take some photos once it's on the stand. I should have it on the stand by TUES. Did you say by the way I should seriously look into just buying a reconditioned block instead of going to the machine shop and getting them to re-bore mine? I wonder if it's cheaper in the end.

Also where should I buy the camshafts from. I'll do my inspections with the gauges but there probably is no point in re-using those if it's 500K clicks already right?

In stead of doing all the inpsections on the Outer Valve Springs (12) and Inner Valve Springs (12), should I just replace those too....Those take heavy wear & tear?

4th, what's the easiest way to get the freeze plugs out, in case they are corroded.

 

use the proper tool for the crank pulley.
the VG cranks are known to break their snout off the crankshaft. you hammering and beating on it won't help.

performance camshafts are available from isky, Jim wolf, Nismo, etc. might need to look at the Z31 area for the performance stuff.
if you're doing camshafts then might as well do the lifters and springs and maybe valve seals.

take a screwdriver..hammer it into the freeze plugs...then pry them out.

 

Junk yard for stockers, or... Nissan Motorsports cams thru your local dealer or Courtesy Nissan, JWT, Cattman, or The Z Store all have VG30 performance camshfts!

 

Thanks guys. In your opinion, is it worth it to pay for the hot dip tank, or if replacing all the freeze plugs, can I do just as good a job cleaning.