Turbo
11-27-2001, 07:38 AM
#1
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Turbo
This is my first post to MAXIMA.ORG. I am about to get started on a long awaited project. Here's my take on the situation. Number one DA-MAX if you get into low 13's N/A I'll be shocked. If you turbo a stock motor you are wasting time and $. I am building a daily driver, so acquiring a beat VG30 SOHC is #1, a few hundred$. As long as block, heads, crank are OK. The big $is the forged Al pistons/ rods. Get heads done right. Port/polish, multi angle valves.(optional, depends on wallet). Go with stock cams. too much overlap on aftermarket cams. Extrude hone intake passages. This is $ too but helps significantly. Keep in mind you can drive it NA while you line up the turbo parts. A few grand invested in the bottom end is well worth it. Mine will be done in 5 mo. Has anyone had a WarpSpeed Y-pipe leak at the collector or am I the lucky one. Now I have to get a big weld to seal the gap. Anyone know of a supplier of good valve gear or turbo cams, let me know. Please comment.
Peace
Peace
11-27-2001, 08:57 AM
#3
Re: Turbo
Originally posted by male
If you turbo a stock motor you are wasting time and $. I am building a daily driver, so acquiring a beat VG30 SOHC is #1, a few hundred$. As long as block, heads, crank are OK. The big $is the forged Al pistons/ rods. Get heads done right. Port/polish, multi angle valves.(optional, depends on wallet). Go with stock cams. too much overlap on aftermarket cams. Extrude hone intake passages. This is $ too but helps significantly. Keep in mind you can drive it NA while you line up the turbo parts.
Peace [/B]
If you turbo a stock motor you are wasting time and $. I am building a daily driver, so acquiring a beat VG30 SOHC is #1, a few hundred$. As long as block, heads, crank are OK. The big $is the forged Al pistons/ rods. Get heads done right. Port/polish, multi angle valves.(optional, depends on wallet). Go with stock cams. too much overlap on aftermarket cams. Extrude hone intake passages. This is $ too but helps significantly. Keep in mind you can drive it NA while you line up the turbo parts.
Peace [/B]
11-27-2001, 09:33 AM
#5
Re: Turbo
Originally posted by male
Number one DA-MAX if you get into low 13's N/A I'll be shocked.
Number one DA-MAX if you get into low 13's N/A I'll be shocked.
11-27-2001, 11:03 AM
#8
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Originally posted by DA-MAX
hmmmmm, you must be a newbie, I'll sell you my turbo, heres a pic, it bolts right up
made by TORO I think its a T60!
hmmmmm, you must be a newbie, I'll sell you my turbo, heres a pic, it bolts right up
made by TORO I think its a T60!
11-27-2001, 11:40 AM
#10
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Originally posted by max88q
das what Im talkin about !! you tell him matt93/ it seems to me he is doing more bragging and downing than educating.
das what Im talkin about !! you tell him matt93/ it seems to me he is doing more bragging and downing than educating.
11-27-2001, 11:54 AM
#11
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i wouldn't use the VG driveline and here's why. althought it will be easier to turbo, the tranny (if it's even a 5 spd) does not have an LSD. My VE came with a viscous (sp?) lsd. . . that should help. the good thing about the VE is the useable parts off the Z. Right now i'm involved in a TT VE motor using two Saab 900S turbos and intercoolers. my biggest problem right now is compression and fuel requirements.
11-27-2001, 11:57 AM
#12
Originally posted by flyry110
i wouldn't use the VG driveline
i wouldn't use the VG driveline
11-27-2001, 12:03 PM
#13
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Originally posted by flyry110
i wouldn't use the VG driveline and here's why. althought it will be easier to turbo, the tranny (if it's even a 5 spd) does not have an LSD. My VE came with a viscous (sp?) lsd. . . that should help. the good thing about the VE is the useable parts off the Z. Right now i'm involved in a TT VE motor using two Saab 900S turbos and intercoolers. my biggest problem right now is compression and fuel requirements.
i wouldn't use the VG driveline and here's why. althought it will be easier to turbo, the tranny (if it's even a 5 spd) does not have an LSD. My VE came with a viscous (sp?) lsd. . . that should help. the good thing about the VE is the useable parts off the Z. Right now i'm involved in a TT VE motor using two Saab 900S turbos and intercoolers. my biggest problem right now is compression and fuel requirements.
11-27-2001, 12:04 PM
#14
24-40 PSI? haha. Good luck.
Buick has iron block/heads = very strong.
Nissan: Iron block alum heads = not as strong. Plus if you think the stock VG internals (not to mention electronics/fuel system etc) is even remotely close to being up to task, you are in for a cold awakening.
Buick has iron block/heads = very strong.
Nissan: Iron block alum heads = not as strong. Plus if you think the stock VG internals (not to mention electronics/fuel system etc) is even remotely close to being up to task, you are in for a cold awakening.
11-27-2001, 12:15 PM
#15
Originally posted by male
I'm not downing or bragging, just looking to smoke some mustangs! I have a question. If I type a post , send it and the server is busy, does that message vanish? I think that just happened. Anyway, If you want to run some serious numbers, a strong bottom end with lots of boost is key. 15-20 psi. Ya know those potent Grand Nationals with the turbo 3.8. They run between 24-40 PSI!! That's what you need to make 400-700 ponies. And I believe it is possible with japanese technology. If Buick can.... So here is my goal. Reliable, powerful SOHC VG capable of 25 PSI, 400hp, 12 sec 1/4 mile. Now, will the chasis handle it?
I'm not downing or bragging, just looking to smoke some mustangs! I have a question. If I type a post , send it and the server is busy, does that message vanish? I think that just happened. Anyway, If you want to run some serious numbers, a strong bottom end with lots of boost is key. 15-20 psi. Ya know those potent Grand Nationals with the turbo 3.8. They run between 24-40 PSI!! That's what you need to make 400-700 ponies. And I believe it is possible with japanese technology. If Buick can.... So here is my goal. Reliable, powerful SOHC VG capable of 25 PSI, 400hp, 12 sec 1/4 mile. Now, will the chasis handle it?
i'll listen for the boom when u WOT the 1st time.
11-27-2001, 12:22 PM
#16
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Originally posted by Jeff92se
24-40 PSI? haha. Good luck.
Buick has iron block/heads = very strong.
Nissan: Iron block alum heads = not as strong. Plus if you think the stock VG internals (not to mention electronics/fuel system etc) is even remotely close to being up to task, you are in for a cold awakening.
24-40 PSI? haha. Good luck.
Buick has iron block/heads = very strong.
Nissan: Iron block alum heads = not as strong. Plus if you think the stock VG internals (not to mention electronics/fuel system etc) is even remotely close to being up to task, you are in for a cold awakening.
Obviously I will be running a forged bottom end at 8:1 compression. JWT will handle the ECU. Fuel wil be via 300z TT injectors and an in-line fuel pump (not fancy, but it works.) I wasn't considering 40 psi, more like 12-15 to start. That was simply an example of the potential of properly built turbo powerplants.
11-27-2001, 12:26 PM
#17
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Originally posted by DanNY
25psi?!!?
i'll listen for the boom when u WOT the 1st time.
25psi?!!?
i'll listen for the boom when u WOT the 1st time.
11-27-2001, 12:31 PM
#18
Which forged pistons? High or low silicone content? Which headgaskets? Are copper ones available for the VG engine?
Originally posted by male
Why? Don't you think forged pistons and rods all balanced will hold? If strong head gaskets are used and good fastenters, the weak link is what? Don't think I would be driving at 25 psi all the time. I will of course start at 12-15 to see.
Why? Don't you think forged pistons and rods all balanced will hold? If strong head gaskets are used and good fastenters, the weak link is what? Don't think I would be driving at 25 psi all the time. I will of course start at 12-15 to see.
11-27-2001, 12:34 PM
#19
Originally posted by male
I said this before and got **itched at
I said this before and got **itched at
My bad man, we just get alot of ppl who come in here thinking they know everything about the maxima and posting being cocky!! My bad if I prejudged you as that type , my apologies.... my bad!
11-27-2001, 12:43 PM
#20
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Originally posted by Jeff92se
Which forged pistons? High or low silicone content? Which headgaskets? Are copper ones available for the VG engine?
Which forged pistons? High or low silicone content? Which headgaskets? Are copper ones available for the VG engine?
11-27-2001, 12:48 PM
#21
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Originally posted by max88q
My bad man, we just get alot of ppl who come in here thinking they know everything about the maxima and posting being cocky!! My bad if I prejudged you as that type , my apologies.... my bad!
My bad man, we just get alot of ppl who come in here thinking they know everything about the maxima and posting being cocky!! My bad if I prejudged you as that type , my apologies.... my bad!
11-27-2001, 02:17 PM
#22
One thing I've heard is that the VE and Vg 5 spd tranny cases are the same, so a LSD from a VE tranny SHOULD drop right in.
Of course, that's just talk I've heard on he board and doesn't mean anything when it comes to putting the parts together. it may be true, it may not.
but if you're planning on running 25psi, you're DEFINITELY going to need a tougher tranny and axles. even a 5 spd tranny is only good for 300hp, max. anything over that and you'll start self-destructing the gears and bearings in no time.. Then there's the clutch.. ACT makes the 4 and 6 puck clutches. should work very well in that case.
but you're basically SOL on the axles, as far as I know. I haven't heard of anyone that makes stronger axles for a Max. a few sentra parts (which also use the VG auto tranny), but nothing for us specifically.
Might want to give Level10 a call and see what they can do. let JWT worry about the engine stuff, and Level10 can bulletproof the tranny. then just bolt it all in and reinforce your engine bay. you'll need an explosion proof firewall, and I recommend a good pair of Nomex underwear.
Also another easy thing to fix are the stock engine/tranny mounts. you'll need to replace them with solid urethane mounts, otherwise the engine will rip right out of there and leave itself twisting on the ground.
Of course, that's just talk I've heard on he board and doesn't mean anything when it comes to putting the parts together. it may be true, it may not.
but if you're planning on running 25psi, you're DEFINITELY going to need a tougher tranny and axles. even a 5 spd tranny is only good for 300hp, max. anything over that and you'll start self-destructing the gears and bearings in no time.. Then there's the clutch.. ACT makes the 4 and 6 puck clutches. should work very well in that case.
but you're basically SOL on the axles, as far as I know. I haven't heard of anyone that makes stronger axles for a Max. a few sentra parts (which also use the VG auto tranny), but nothing for us specifically.
Might want to give Level10 a call and see what they can do. let JWT worry about the engine stuff, and Level10 can bulletproof the tranny. then just bolt it all in and reinforce your engine bay. you'll need an explosion proof firewall, and I recommend a good pair of Nomex underwear.
Also another easy thing to fix are the stock engine/tranny mounts. you'll need to replace them with solid urethane mounts, otherwise the engine will rip right out of there and leave itself twisting on the ground.
11-27-2001, 07:56 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2001
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Originally posted by Matt93SE
One thing I've heard is that the VE and Vg 5 spd tranny cases are the same, so a LSD from a VE tranny SHOULD drop right in....
Of course, that's just talk I've heard on he board and doesn't mean anything when it comes to putting the parts together. it may be true, it may not.
but if you're planning on running 25psi, you're DEFINITELY going to need a tougher tranny and axles. even a 5 spd tranny is only good for 300hp, max. anything over that and you'll start self-destructing the gears and bearings in no time.. Then there's the clutch.. ACT makes the 4 and 6 puck clutches. should work very well in that case.
but you're basically SOL on the axles, as far as I know. I haven't heard of anyone that makes stronger axles for a Max. a few sentra parts (which also use the VG auto tranny), but nothing for us specifically.
Might want to give Level10 a call and see what they can do. let JWT worry about the engine stuff, and Level10 can bulletproof the tranny. then just bolt it all in and reinforce your engine bay. you'll need an explosion proof firewall, and I recommend a good pair of Nomex underwear.
Thanks for the tips. This is exactly the kind of response I was hoping for...Some Knowlege! Much apprectiated. Oh yeah, Nomex undies are on the way..
Also another easy thing to fix are the stock engine/tranny mounts. you'll need to replace them with solid urethane mounts, otherwise the engine will rip right out of there and leave itself twisting on the ground.
One thing I've heard is that the VE and Vg 5 spd tranny cases are the same, so a LSD from a VE tranny SHOULD drop right in....
Of course, that's just talk I've heard on he board and doesn't mean anything when it comes to putting the parts together. it may be true, it may not.
but if you're planning on running 25psi, you're DEFINITELY going to need a tougher tranny and axles. even a 5 spd tranny is only good for 300hp, max. anything over that and you'll start self-destructing the gears and bearings in no time.. Then there's the clutch.. ACT makes the 4 and 6 puck clutches. should work very well in that case.
but you're basically SOL on the axles, as far as I know. I haven't heard of anyone that makes stronger axles for a Max. a few sentra parts (which also use the VG auto tranny), but nothing for us specifically.
Might want to give Level10 a call and see what they can do. let JWT worry about the engine stuff, and Level10 can bulletproof the tranny. then just bolt it all in and reinforce your engine bay. you'll need an explosion proof firewall, and I recommend a good pair of Nomex underwear.
Thanks for the tips. This is exactly the kind of response I was hoping for...Some Knowlege! Much apprectiated. Oh yeah, Nomex undies are on the way..
Also another easy thing to fix are the stock engine/tranny mounts. you'll need to replace them with solid urethane mounts, otherwise the engine will rip right out of there and leave itself twisting on the ground.
11-27-2001, 11:25 PM
#26
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 886
you need to do more research before you even think about building a turbo motor. there is so much you are leaving out its not even funny.
first off. the stock 300zx fuel system is only good for 15 psi on the stock fuel pump and injectors. and thats damn near maxing them out
two. drive line. you will blow up clutches. its a given
three. if you're going to build the bottom end. you forgot a whole bunch of crap.. rod bearing size, crank balance and shaved amount. cam profiles. valve sizes, valve spring rates, cfm of the turbo in relation to the ability of the heads to flow. the turbo you plan on using, what cfm is it at 15 psi. what intercooler? what cfm and psi drop is the intercooler?
i could go on and on, but there is sooooooooooo much to building a turbo motor its not even funny. besides 15psi is ***** crap if you are going to build the motor.
first off. the stock 300zx fuel system is only good for 15 psi on the stock fuel pump and injectors. and thats damn near maxing them out
two. drive line. you will blow up clutches. its a given
three. if you're going to build the bottom end. you forgot a whole bunch of crap.. rod bearing size, crank balance and shaved amount. cam profiles. valve sizes, valve spring rates, cfm of the turbo in relation to the ability of the heads to flow. the turbo you plan on using, what cfm is it at 15 psi. what intercooler? what cfm and psi drop is the intercooler?
i could go on and on, but there is sooooooooooo much to building a turbo motor its not even funny. besides 15psi is ***** crap if you are going to build the motor.
11-28-2001, 08:23 AM
#27
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Originally posted by Bryan H
you need to do more research before you even think about building a turbo motor. there is so much you are leaving out its not even funny.
first off. the stock 300zx fuel system is only good for 15 psi on the stock fuel pump and injectors. and thats damn near maxing them out
two. drive line. you will blow up clutches. its a given
three. if you're going to build the bottom end. you forgot a whole bunch of crap.. rod bearing size, crank balance and shaved amount. cam profiles. valve sizes, valve spring rates, cfm of the turbo in relation to the ability of the heads to flow. the turbo you plan on using, what cfm is it at 15 psi. what intercooler? what cfm and psi drop is the intercooler?
Injectors: Bigger injectors? Must find who makes 'em, if any.
Clutch: I anticipate toasting plenty, but that is to be expected
Bottom End: Isn't rod bearing size a pretty standard thing? If the crank throw journals need machining, then the proper bearings must be selected to provide a gap within spec. Same w/ the crank. If it's balanced it's balanced. Unless I want to lighten it, which I won't.
Cams: Start w/ stock cams for their minimal overlap. Plus, they are pretty expensive. JWT are all I know right now.
Heads and Valve train: I have been pursuing info on perf. valves, springs etc. No luck yet. Know any? regardless, heads will be ported and polished .
Intercooler will be an experiment. I'll try factory pieces first then see where it takes me.
My goal here is to seek a good balance of power, reliability and economy. I will build strong NA motor using proper machining techniques, port heads to allow good flows without totally killing low end torque. Then I will gather the basic turbo parts and work from a reference point. Start simple, with mostly stock VG-T parts and upgrade as necessary. I am hunting down 300z enthusiasts. They will be my best source aside from this board. Thanks for the tips. The whole reason I started w/ Maxima.org was to get input from guys like you. Thanks!
I could go on and on, but there is sooooooooooo much to building a turbo motor its not even funny. besides 15psi is ***** crap if you are going to build the motor.
you need to do more research before you even think about building a turbo motor. there is so much you are leaving out its not even funny.
first off. the stock 300zx fuel system is only good for 15 psi on the stock fuel pump and injectors. and thats damn near maxing them out
two. drive line. you will blow up clutches. its a given
three. if you're going to build the bottom end. you forgot a whole bunch of crap.. rod bearing size, crank balance and shaved amount. cam profiles. valve sizes, valve spring rates, cfm of the turbo in relation to the ability of the heads to flow. the turbo you plan on using, what cfm is it at 15 psi. what intercooler? what cfm and psi drop is the intercooler?
Injectors: Bigger injectors? Must find who makes 'em, if any.
Clutch: I anticipate toasting plenty, but that is to be expected
Bottom End: Isn't rod bearing size a pretty standard thing? If the crank throw journals need machining, then the proper bearings must be selected to provide a gap within spec. Same w/ the crank. If it's balanced it's balanced. Unless I want to lighten it, which I won't.
Cams: Start w/ stock cams for their minimal overlap. Plus, they are pretty expensive. JWT are all I know right now.
Heads and Valve train: I have been pursuing info on perf. valves, springs etc. No luck yet. Know any? regardless, heads will be ported and polished .
Intercooler will be an experiment. I'll try factory pieces first then see where it takes me.
My goal here is to seek a good balance of power, reliability and economy. I will build strong NA motor using proper machining techniques, port heads to allow good flows without totally killing low end torque. Then I will gather the basic turbo parts and work from a reference point. Start simple, with mostly stock VG-T parts and upgrade as necessary. I am hunting down 300z enthusiasts. They will be my best source aside from this board. Thanks for the tips. The whole reason I started w/ Maxima.org was to get input from guys like you. Thanks!
I could go on and on, but there is sooooooooooo much to building a turbo motor its not even funny. besides 15psi is ***** crap if you are going to build the motor.
11-28-2001, 08:43 AM
#29
Ah building a engine for high performance na duty is different than building an engine for high performance boosted duty.
Honest opinion? I think you should inlist the help of a qualified machine shop and engine builder. From the questions you have, it's pretty clear than you lack the proper experience and know how to do this right.
It may seem expensive upfront, but it will save you from building a $2000 paperweight.
Damn, as a moderator, I have to be nice so there you go.
Honest opinion? I think you should inlist the help of a qualified machine shop and engine builder. From the questions you have, it's pretty clear than you lack the proper experience and know how to do this right.
It may seem expensive upfront, but it will save you from building a $2000 paperweight.
Damn, as a moderator, I have to be nice so there you go.
11-28-2001, 09:25 AM
#30
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,941
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Honest opinion? I think you should inlist the help of a qualified machine shop and engine builder.
Honest opinion? I think you should inlist the help of a qualified machine shop and engine builder.
Czar had enough problems with his mild DIY turbo project, but an engine seriously boosted enough to warrant using forged parts probably should be done very very carefully - espcecially if you are going "where no man has gone before".
This also sounds like an expensive project, so a few things came to mind. I don't know how our modern Japanese engines compare to old V8s, but isn't it a good idea to get the engine blueprinted? (Anyone?) Also you might want to think about getting a set of headers custom-built while you're at it.
Good luck!
11-28-2001, 09:27 AM
#31
Please do not say that.
Originally posted by Bman
Czar had enough problems with his mild DIY turbo project, but an engine seriously boosted enough to warrant using forged parts probably should be done very very carefully - espcecially if you are going "where no man has gone before".
Czar had enough problems with his mild DIY turbo project, but an engine seriously boosted enough to warrant using forged parts probably should be done very very carefully - espcecially if you are going "where no man has gone before".
11-28-2001, 09:47 AM
#32
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Posts: 2,238
Originally posted by Bman
Also you might want to think about getting a set of headers custom-built while you're at it.
Good luck!
Also you might want to think about getting a set of headers custom-built while you're at it.
Good luck!
11-28-2001, 09:24 PM
#34
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 25
Zcar.com
You say you need to talk with 300zx fanatics, try one of these links:
www.zcar.com
www.hybridz.com
www.zdriver.com
www.z31.org
www.z31.com
www.z32.org
The last one is the second gen 300zx so I am not sure if they use the VG or if they have a different motor. And the first one has all the Z's from 1970-2003. But anyways have fun.
www.zcar.com
www.hybridz.com
www.zdriver.com
www.z31.org
www.z31.com
www.z32.org
The last one is the second gen 300zx so I am not sure if they use the VG or if they have a different motor. And the first one has all the Z's from 1970-2003. But anyways have fun.
11-28-2001, 09:28 PM
#35
Re: Zcar.com
Originally posted by THAWABUTT
You say you need to talk with 300zx fanatics, try one of these links:
www.zcar.com
You say you need to talk with 300zx fanatics, try one of these links:
www.zcar.com
11-29-2001, 09:06 AM
#36
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Originally posted by flyry110
i'm havin custom manifolds done, and it's expensive. stupid Z manifolds won't fit. anyone know if i can hone out the manifolds to line up with my heads? just an idea.
i'm havin custom manifolds done, and it's expensive. stupid Z manifolds won't fit. anyone know if i can hone out the manifolds to line up with my heads? just an idea.
11-29-2001, 04:54 PM
#39
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Re: Stop waisting time
Originally posted by Maximum5spd
Stop waisting time and get a 300ZX do a fairlady Z conversion drop A T7 in there and ur set.
Stop waisting time and get a 300ZX do a fairlady Z conversion drop A T7 in there and ur set.
11-30-2001, 03:03 PM
#40
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 135
This pace will make the axles for you , but the will cost a lot.
http://www.cvaxle-cvjoint-rackpinion...om/index2.ivnu
http://www.cvaxle-cvjoint-rackpinion...om/index2.ivnu