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92 SE: Recent Purchase trouble shoot

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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 06:49 AM
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92 SE: Recent Purchase trouble shoot

Ok, if its all right with you guys I think I'll make this my Official trouble shooting thread for the new max. Got her on the cheap this week for 375 bucks! Granted there are a few things wrong with her, but she runs and is surprisingly clean!

I won't muddle the waters with the issues I'm already aware of unless I run into problems fixing them. Heres my running list and there status:

Number 1 - Key stuck in ignition. Fixed!!!

Number 2 - Burning smell after driving]. Car had been sitting for a while. Non-issue anymore

Number 3 - Top left Ignition Coil (CONNECTOR) Fixed!!! - turned out to be the injector. I spliced into the connectors and purchased coils for nothing

Number 4 - Hissing sound from Engine Think it might be coming from Manifold. It was indeed the manifold. Reinforced gasket with liquid gasket, but now I can't get the d@m EGR bolt back on!!

Number 5 - Two windows not working How can you tell if the regulator and not the motor is bad? Status pending. Thanks Cliff/Ben


Thanks,

Capitone

Last edited by Capitone; Nov 16, 2009 at 05:49 AM. Reason: Updates
Old Aug 6, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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I don't think having to put it in park then neutral, etc. to get the car to start would cause issue number 2. Having to put the car in park, then neutral, etc. to get it to start is merely just an issue with a worn shifter bushing. I remember having that problem way back in my first auto Maxima about 10 years ago.

Issue number two might just be because it sat so long. I would check all your fuses and maybe get down in there under steering column and make sure none of the wiring there is super hot or melted.

When I was restoring my Civic, I did a dash swap from a CRX and got the dash and wiring from a CRX that had been sitting for years. When I put it in I'd drive it I smelled a burning electronic type smell. I finally pinpointed the smell down to the dash light dimmer switch, but nothing ever became of it and it went away after a few days. I just figured it was doing that since it'd been sitting for so long.
Old Aug 7, 2009 | 06:57 AM
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Whats up James. Thanks for your comment. I think you may be right. Had her running for a bit yesterday and took a tour around the block with no smell this time around. Once I get some things straightend out on her, I'll take her for a real drive and see if the smell comes back. For now I think I'll keep this issue as pending further observation. With a little luck I won't have anymore issues to post!
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 08:34 AM
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Think I may have a leak somewhere around the manifold. Anyone know how to check for leaks? Also I think I'll start working on the windows. Wondering how I can tell if the issue is just the regulator and not the motor.

Tips are appreciated.

Thx

Last edited by Capitone; Sep 8, 2009 at 09:06 AM.
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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WOW, That sounds like a great deal! how many miles did the car have on it?? I remember I bought a 2nd gerneration maxima for $500 bucks about 2 years ago, If I find another one sitting in somones yard, I may just see what they want for it. Alot of people sell 3rd generation Maximas Pretty cheap around hear because either the engine blew or the transmission went out.
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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leaking manifold sounds more like a tick (or series of ticks). sucking/hissing is more of a vacuum/intake leak.
Window regulators that are broken, the motor will whine (trying to do something, and failing). you should take the time and inspect the regulator, and make sure the motor's harness is still connected. if the regulator is good, and the harness is connected, check the window switches. a bad switch (either main or secondary) can cause the window not to roll up/down.

Last edited by BenStoked; Sep 8, 2009 at 04:36 PM.
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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If you take the door panel off, you can see if the regulator is working or not. Usually the plastic pulleys will be broken. At least, both of mine that went bad had that problem.

It could also be the master switch, so check the switches all around.
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Capitone
...
Number 4 - Hissing sound from Engine Think it might be coming from Manifold. Anyone have any tips on checkn for leaks?
...
If you buy mechanic stetoscope it will be one of the best $10 you ever spent on the tools. You can unhook stetoscope tubes from the sphere and holding open ends in your hand go into engine bay looking for sounds . This device greatly reduces area you hear sounds from therefore allowing you to pinpoint source of a sound easily. Just watch out for pulleys and cooling fans which can turn on any time without warning. If you go carefully around exhaust manifold you should be able to determine if the sound is coming from there or from intake for that matter.

I had similar problem with my car in the past and the culprit was small pipe going from the back of intake to heater valve. Check that area first for hissing.
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:02 AM
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Awesome. I'm going to give all this input a shot this weekend.

- Capitone out -
Old Nov 16, 2009 | 05:53 AM
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I've done this before already, but for some reason, the 2nd time around, I can't get the EGR bolt back onto the EGR. WTF? I must of spent an hour and change on this part of reassembly alone. I've no ide what the issue is....all the bolt does is spin, and spin, and spin, and spin but never couples with the thread.....very frustrating. If anyone knows the issue, please let me know.

Capitone
Old Nov 16, 2009 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Capitone
I've done this before already, but for some reason, the 2nd time around, I can't get the EGR bolt back onto the EGR. WTF? I must of spent an hour and change on this part of reassembly alone. I've no ide what the issue is....all the bolt does is spin, and spin, and spin, and spin but never couples with the thread.....very frustrating. If anyone knows the issue, please let me know.

Capitone
They're slightly misaligned. It was OK when you disassembled them but it wouldn't to go back on. I don't have a car in front of me but IIRC you have to loosen other parts on the same 'path' in order to get this one going. I had problems with EGR nut which goes over pipe from exhaust in the past and it helped if I loosened either nut on the other end of the pipe or EGR bolts (I don't remember) to get it on.
Old Nov 16, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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You know.....I think you might be right....AAARRRGhhh!!!

Your point has been in the back of my mind since I've separated from the engine bay and allowed my frustrations to settle down a little bit. I kind of still don't want to believe it, BUT this has been the case with other stubborn linkages. At minimum its worth a shot. Watch it work too and I'll be p!ssed all over again for not having tried it in the first place.

Aaaahh.....thanks Max.

Capitone Out
Old Nov 16, 2009 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Capitone
You know.....I think you might be right....AAARRRGhhh!!!

Your point has been in the back of my mind since I've separated from the engine bay and allowed my frustrations to settle down a little bit. I kind of still don't want to believe it, BUT this has been the case with other stubborn linkages. At minimum its worth a shot. Watch it work too and I'll be p!ssed all over again for not having tried it in the first place.

Aaaahh.....thanks Max.

Capitone Out
Take it easy, everyone has been there . I do this myself from time to time. It is especially irritating when you already went through something but forgot so next time around you're having dejavu right at the time you just broke the same thing again!
Old Nov 16, 2009 | 06:54 PM
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About your motor / regulator issue.

If it moves / makes noise, its usually the regulator

if it does nothing. it's usually the motor , both, or the up/down switch (unlikely)
Old Nov 19, 2009 | 06:45 AM
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It was indeed as we discussed. Removed all the bolts and the EGR nut linked right up. The Manifold moved around though, so I’m going to probably need to go back in to remove and reapply the liquid gaskets. Thanks Max.


Mysticcal – thanks for the input. I’m holding off with the windows for now, but your simple assessment will prove helpful when I do.
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