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Removing yoke from striking rod

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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:49 PM
  #1  
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Removing yoke from striking rod

What is the trick here?

I've got the pin out, but the darn thing won't budge at all. Not in the least. If I didn't know any better it almost seems as if the darn thing is all one unit, but I know with the pin out the yoke should be able to come off

I'm attempting to replace the strike rod seal but I can't do that if I can't get the darn yoke off.
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 08:23 PM
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Calling Caped:

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-problems.html

Old Aug 10, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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i have to concede complete and total failure on this one.... i never got the f*cker to come off. thus i've just been topping off my tranny fluid every couple weeks for the last 10 months. I would suggest either trying heat, or if you have a spare yoke (or if you buy one) you can just CAREFULLY use a grinder to split the stuck one in half, clean up the end of the rod, then put the new one on.

matter of fact i STILL have the brand-new striking rod seal in my toolbox as of earlier today.

Last edited by CapedCadaver; Aug 10, 2009 at 09:22 PM.
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 05:52 AM
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I just went mid evil on mine and took it off with brute force. The only thing on that end you're going to hurt is the seal, and you're replacing it anyway.

I'd try some heat and channel locks to twist it first. see where that gets you.
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 07:22 AM
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Well, I tried heat last night and it didn't help at all. I've actually been working on trying to get it off for several days now (off and on when I have a few minutes here and there), and it hasn't seemed to budge one bit.

Last night I used my Bernzomatic torch and heated that MF'er up pretty good and it still didn't help at all.

Matt, how did you use brute force? What I've been doing is sticking a bar through the two holes in the yoke and trying to break it loose that way
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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Is the yoke split? where you can get a wedge (screw driver) too drive in and open it up?
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
I just went mid evil on mine and took it off with brute force. The only thing on that end you're going to hurt is the seal, and you're replacing it anyway.

I'd try some heat and channel locks to twist it first. see where that gets you.
iirc you said something on my thread about 'backing it up with a sledge then something something with a ball-peen hammer"... i didn't entirely understand what you meant nor did i ever try it, so how does that work again?
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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Well, ****, I still haven't gotten the darn thing off. At this point I suppose I'll have to cut it off and buy a new yoke or something.
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 08:11 PM
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Well, I cut the yoke in three separate places down to the strike rod. Then I used screwdrivers to wedge in it and twist/prod it to get each cut to open up a bit. Then I used my torch on it several times and only then was I able to get the yoke loose enough to be able to spin/twist on the strike rod. I fear I'm still not close to getting the darn thing off
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by James92SE
Well, I cut the yoke in three separate places down to the strike rod. Then I used screwdrivers to wedge in it and twist/prod it to get each cut to open up a bit. Then I used my torch on it several times and only then was I able to get the yoke loose enough to be able to spin/twist on the strike rod. I fear I'm still not close to getting the darn thing off
waaait you got it to spin and twist but it's STILL not off? or you just got it loose enough to where you think it can spin but haven't tried to yet?
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
waaait you got it to spin and twist but it's STILL not off? or you just got it loose enough to where you think it can spin but haven't tried to yet?
No, I got it where it will spin. Well, "spin" is kind of a lenient word, as when I say "spin" I mean "get it to turn with a great deal of effort"

But yes, it will spin now, but the thing is still reallllllly on there pretty tight. I might be able to knock it off with a rubber mallet or something, but it's looking like I'll probably have to cut some more notches in it. What a total PITA. I wonder if the new one is gonna be impossible to get on..
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by James92SE
No, I got it where it will spin. Well, "spin" is kind of a lenient word, as when I say "spin" I mean "get it to turn with a great deal of effort"

But yes, it will spin now, but the thing is still reallllllly on there pretty tight. I might be able to knock it off with a rubber mallet or something, but it's looking like I'll probably have to cut some more notches in it. What a total PITA. I wonder if the new one is gonna be impossible to get on..
how far up did you cut it? can you cut through the 'butt' of the yoke between the 'uprights'? also if you have the shifter positioned between the 1/2 and 3/4 gates that should give you some stability when tapping it.. since the interlock ***** that go into the front of the tranny will hold everything steady.
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 09:02 PM
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I cut it like so

Old Aug 12, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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I've got several spare trans parts, let me know if you're going to need a new one or anything else.
Old Aug 13, 2009 | 07:14 AM
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Would using an air hammer/chisel hurt anything internally? I have found that method to work quite well when I was replacing the control arm.
Old Aug 13, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #16  
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Well, I finally got it off. What a total PITA. I couldn't imagine trying to do this on the car



Hectic, you have a spare yoke? I already ordered one from Courtesy
Old Aug 13, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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Yep, I've got a trade-in tranny with a cracked bell housing which I already have a replacement for. So I could have pulled it from the broken one.
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