WERNER1

I'm going to go down and buy some plugs, wires, cap, and rotor in the next day or two as I'm trying to "Fix" my fouling problem,...or loading up problem to be more accurate..

I was figuring if I went with the next higher heat range I might be able to keep the engine from loading up and causing one or more plugs to begin to foul ??

I'm also going to install an inline fuel pressure gauge so that I can monitor if fuel pressure is bleeding off while the car sits for extended periods of time,..or over night.. Thinking I might have a blubbering Injector or even a bad oring that allowing fuel to get down into the cylinder..

Thanks,
Rick

LvR

For NGK brand smaller number = hotter

WERNER1

Thanks man,..

I just checked and the Local "Advanced" store has the next step hotter NGK G Power plugs instock,.. I think I'll be trying them out here in the next day or so..

The weird thing was that today the car started missing again and no matter how hard I ran it,.. it never "cleared up" (And believe me I was ripping it to the moon!... "Don't drive angry,.don't drive angry,..." ) ... I was close to home so I pulled in the drive way and took a peek at what was going on,... Once again I was able to pull the entire right(Firewall side) banks Injector connectors off with out any change in RPM or idle or rev. up feel... ... This just totally blows my mind,.. there is no physical way those cylinders can be getting any fuel unless the O-rings are shot and it's blubbering on by into the combustion chamber.. .. So this leads me to believe that the engine is running lean when I feel it fall on it's face,.. and that was what I first thought when it happened too.. it's kind of that feeling when you're running out of gas and you push on the pedal a bit harder but the engine acutally seems to slow you down some ... very weird indeed!

So could one single thing control all three injectors on that side of the motor? .. I believe that those three are tied straight into the main wiring harness unlike the other side where there's a separate harness that ties into a single connector..

It's really driving me batty that's for sure!

Thanks,
Rick

jakeru

You might want to check the injector's wiring on those rear three banks. I believe that those three injectors share one wire in common, for the +12V that powers the injectors. What I'd do is remove the connector from the injector, and measure with a multimeter or test light, one end connected to battery ground, other connect to injector wiring terminal. One of each injector's two terminals should show +12V when the ignition is switch off. (Yes that's right, positive voltage even when key it turned off! ...Is how they should be wired. The ECU actually fires the injector by pulsing the other lead to ground, which completes the circut, causing the injector to fire.)

Since you have all three injectors bad on the rear bank, perhaps there is an open circuit in the +12V power source that is powering them all. The front three injectors share a different wiring loom, which maybe is unaffected.

Either that, or all three mysteriously failed at the same time! (Seems unlikely.)

Also, check your injectors terminals for green corrosion. On VG motors, the rubber boots on the rear injectors gets torn and lets in water+oxygen and corrodes the electrical terminals of both the injector male copper terminals and the connectors tin plated copper female terminals. If you find corrosion, scrape it off with a precision screwdriver.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Jakeru had some info there, but I would still check the coil resistance of those 2 injectors as long as you are checking things. a good injector coil is 12 ohms. if you measure more, say 20, 30, 50 or anything 1 or 2 ohms higher than 12, the injector is going bad and can cause intermittent missing.