canucklehead

Wow, i did a complete search of various tranny removal threads and couldn't find answers to my main question about tranny removal. I also have a couple of other Qs. Background:

I have a '94 Max. VG with an auto RE4F02A. It was rebuilt at 90k miles, and I now have 120k miles, and I think it's gone again (unless someone can hopefully tell me something simple & basic has happended!!). I was going about 40-50 MPH, hit the gas hard to pull out & pass a semi. I heard a noise like a pop or thud, not super loud or obnoxious, but I heard something faint. It was immediately followed by no power to my axles. NONE of the gears work. I'm assuming it's shot.I got towed home. The fact it only lasted 30k from last rebuild, I think I'll take my chances on a used one for $100.

Is there any point in trying to get this one rebuilt...AGAIN!?? Can these be rebuilt to last with some updates or modifications? Is there a west coast tranny guru for these?

Has anyone bought off ebay? I see 2 companies from the same area, advertise a shipped rebuild around $1,000 (US) + your rebuildable core.

Okay...back to removal. I have axles & starter out and most of the tubes are disconnected. I have brackets surrounding the lower TC cover plate removed, but there are 2 lower M10 studs that the TC cover sits on. I can't get the cover plate slid past these studs, to disconnect the TC from the flywheel. The cover hits the oil pan, and I'm stuck.

A very helpful poster from this site suggested I try removing the studs by welding on nut, or using impact, or cutting them off and drilling out after. The studs are NOT threaded into the tranny housing (or cast), so if I cut them, how will I get them out after, and how will I press in new ones? i can't press them from the inside, like a wheel stud. If I get those studs out of the way, i think I can disconnect the TC and I'm pretty much home free.

Any special order to removal of the remaining bolts that mount tranny to engine and suppports? PS: I bought a tranny-jack adapter for my jack.

When I swap in a used tranny, i plan to put in a new filter. any other issues I'll have to deal with by putting in a used tranny? WHat's the TC re-connect like?

how many litres of ATF does this tranny hold?

Thanks!! BTW...what a dumbazz I am!! I've been a member for a few months and replied to posts a few times. I tried to post my own Qs, but the system never allowed me. I finally read the technical FAQs last night (when I was at 14 posts) to discover I wouldn't have New Topic priviliges until I posted 15 times. I belong to several tech/repair chat rooms and this was a first! Well... now I know. Hopefully I can post some of my fix-its for dummies like me... simple with lots of directions!

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Why don't you just pull the transmission off and then remove the TC from the flywheel with the transmission off? That's how I did it on the car I did the 5 speed swap on

*edit* also, one thing I always do when removing a transmission rather than screwing around with a cumbersome transmission jack or even normal jack for that matter is to just put a box (about the size of a 12 pc. oil box) underneath the transmission, and just let the transmission drop right on that. Close the box up and put some "stuffing" in it if you'd like, but don't fill it all the way up as you want the box to compress to cushion the fall. Then, you can just grab the cardboard and drag the tranny right out. It's the quickest way I've found to get the thing off. I even have a transmission jack and still use this method lol

canucklehead

DOH! I thought the flywheel is attached to the motor, and i can't get the tranny out until the flywheel is disconnected.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

The flywheel (it's actually called a flexplate on an auto) is attached to the motor, and the TC is attached to the flexplate. However, the transmission shaft isn't *attached* to the TC, it just slides into the teeth on the TC.

So, if you have everything disconnected on the transmission (mounts, bellhousing bolts, etc), then the transmission can just slide right off. Then you'll have the flexplate and TC still connected on the engine, and you can then remove the TC from the flexplate.

There may be a method to remove the TC with the transmission but I didn't bother with it, this just seemed like the most logical way of doing it to me

1993-VG30E-GXE

If I were you I would leave the TQ alone in there. Plus there's probably no clearance to do what you suggest anyways. Those studs are threaded in, see my other reply. You remove the 4 bolts on the drive plate by rotating the engine via crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise. Buying the used tranny is a good idea. Now you can just rebuild your own yourself.

Don't bother buying the new filter unless you are prepared to do the Overhaul Tear Down for the RE4F02A. The filter is some levels down inside, not easily accessible.

The TQ reconnect is nothing because you leave it alone. Just don't tip the tranny towards the engine or the TQ can slip out, It's a slip fit. See my notes at end.

burhan92SE

or u can buy my GXE and use it as a parts car or swap the ''Auto Transmission'' it runs very smooth

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

trust me this is not helpful advice AT ALL.
there is some flex in the cover so you can bend/curve it with a pry bar and it will come out. just bend it back when you're ready to put the tranny back in and you're good to go. this is really just a cover...nothing rubs on it...nothing mechanical depends on it.

if you like your car and would like to drive it for a little while longer than go get a rebuilt.

if you think you're pretty much done and will drive it until you can save enough for another car..then get a used one.

remove the screws from the flex plate..drop tranny. make sure you brace/support the motor.

from what you're saying it's either the main shaft is worn out, pump seals gone, or something broke off in the VB and it's not allowing fluid to pass.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

easiest way to deal with those studs is to take both nuts (one from each stud) and put them on the stud, using them as a jam nut system, and just take the studs out that way. then when you are ready to reinstall the tranny just put them back in after the top tranny bolts have been replaced.

canucklehead

CC, that's EXACTLY what I did to remove those 2 nuts, and they came out easy.

I notice 1993-VG30E-GXE is from Ontario, and I also noticed how rusty the motor mounts looked, and other stuff, in the pics he posted. So in his case, i think those lower nuts may be rusted stuck and he has no choice but to cut, or weld on a nut, or whatever works.

So we went to the wrecker today and took out a used tranny with 189KM (115K miles). Man, was it ever easy to get out (1.5 hours). And when we came home, mine came out easier after we moved a couple of items. If I could give any advice, i'd say remove more stuff so you have more wiggle room in there. Take off the left, front tranny mount (it separates into 2 pieces), and remove the left rear one from the actual rubber mount in the middle (after you've removed the 2 nuts underneath it), which then pulls up and out of the way. Remove the air cleaner and battery, just so you can see some of the wiring harnesses and stuff that is still connected. It also allows you to help manipulate from the top, while you're buddy is working from the bottom.

AND yes, this is a job where one helper = 4X in the amount of work you can do.

Another thing 1993-VG30E-GXE (that's too long to type, from now on, you're T.O.!) pointed out, it that you have to make sure the TC is slid fully back on the shaft, and doesn't slide forward, or you'll burn out your pump. The TC seems like its on, but it you wiggle it back and turn back and forth slightly, suddenly you'll find it slides back and is fully seated. Very easy to wrongly assume it's in the correct position.

Just came in from connecting the used one. Now all the other stuff that goes with it (axles, plastic, air cleaner, battery) tomorrow, and then fill with fluid.

Big Thanks to all for their helpful advise, and HUGE thanks to 1993-VG... T.O., for holding my hand thru the whole thing. Now PLEASE, PLEASE work with no glitches.

canucklehead

A couple of other things:

1)there is a rubber tube on top of the black, top-pan. Is this a vacuum tube that connects somewhere else ?, OR, is it just a vent or overflow tube that only connects in one spot? I see it goes to a metal fitting that is 180 degrees, but nothing connects on the other end of that 180 ??

2)how do I add fluid..... slowly through the dipstick tube with veh running? will this fill TC? How long will it take to add?

3)I re-connected the shift linkage. Does this need adjustment for a different tranny?

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

1. It's a breather hose. Doesn't connect to anything else.

2. Yeah you add the fluid through the tube.

EDIT: Just noticed that you got a used tranny. Well I would say fill it to the bottom of the Hot indicator while the engine is off. Then turn it on, let the transmission warm up and check how much more you need left until it reaches to the ok spot on the dipstick.

3. I don't recall adjusting mine but I dunno.

maximagician

[QUOTE=canucklehead;7179104]
I have a '94 Max. VG with an auto RE4F02A. It was rebuilt at 90k miles, and I now have 120k miles,. I was going about 40-50 MPH, hit the gas hard to pull out & pass a semi. I heard a noise like a pop or thud, not super loud or obnoxious, but I heard something faint. It was immediately followed by no power to my axles. NONE of the gears work. END QUOTE]

----------------REPLY:
I BET the torque converter stripped out ,
drain it enough to look in with a flashlight and see chewed up "teeth"

canucklehead

Aaaahhhhhh, FINALLY finished. In my world, it was a big job, especially when we had to pull one from pick-a-part. at least it was only $130, and i get $20 back if I take in my core, which isn't worth it. of course, this assumes my time is worthless. Still better than $3500-4K.

anyways, all back together and running great. The Nissan manual said it took 7.4L of ATF. I thought we'd drained the TC. So we dumped in a bunch and I was a mile over. Had to drain out about 2-3 L !!

hey maximagician, if my TC stripped out, wouldn't that have shown signs leading up, like slippage, or powering out? It is blue and the one in my used tranny is bare metal, so i assume they replaced it during the rebuild. I'll see what I can see. The TC would be the easiest fix.

Going into park is still a bit stiff, same as before. ALSO, I do need to do a really small adjustment to the linkage. If I slide gear selector into D, it doesn't quite click in. Nudge it back just a bit (towards 2nd), and it just clicks into drive. That's a pretty simple fix.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

as for the shifter precision issue, how do your shifter bushings (white vyinl pipe-like things about 5/8" in diameter) look? bad or missing bushings are the #1 cause of the automatic shifter not lining up properly.

canucklehead

i assume you mean the bushing that is on the round end of the cable, slides over top of the linkage on the tranny? I think it's okay, but now that you mention it, our linkage piece that the cable slides over took a bit of a bending and beating coming out of the junk yard car. that's probably what's thrown it off that little bit. I tried to straighten it, but it's probably tweaked just enough to throw it off.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Holy man you completed that fast. AND you got a JY tranny? How the hell did you get it out of there - the ground is so soft around here at the pick yards, I didn't even think it was possible.

I want to take a picture of the replacement tranny I'm putting in mine that I bought off that guy in JUNE. I notice there's numbers on it, written in chalk, and my friend says that that's not OEM, and those numbers usually mean that it's a JY tranny.

Maybe I should think twice about putting that one in, or else i'll have to do the whole removal thing AGAIN if it fails. My original OEM is working fine, but it's 400K now...so a little risky I would say too.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Where are the numbers written in chalk? That doesn't necessarily mean it's not OEM. I've had all sorts of OEM stuff on various cars taken apart and have come across numerous markings/writing all over things. Although, I haven't had any experience with those on auto transmissions (no experience there whatsoever), but in general the existence of writing/markings doesn't in and of itself mean something isn't OEM.

canucklehead

my buddy helped me at the JY. he's a ramrod, I'm a bit slower and methodical. we had a very intersting moment. he's pulling out the right axle, and I'm working on the left side. We had all the top bolts still attached to the motor. I undid the 2 nuts from the tranny mount closest to the firewall...then WHOOSH.. the tranny drops and stops almost touching his chest. he scrambles out and starts giving me sheit . I'm all apologetic (never happened when I undid those on mine). ALSO, the cross member had been disconnected at the firewall end, so that helped everything drop more.

our JY is gravel. we put down some cardboard and brought a creeper. we have had our driest summer in YEARS. CampFire bans everyhwhere. I think we sent the westcoast rain back east this summer!

as for your markings, hard to say who put them there. maybe it's been rebuilt before?? maybe a JY. They usually mark them so if you bring it back and say it doesn't work, they know it's theirs, and not your old one.

hmmm, 400K on the original. Mine has 200K and has been rebuilt once already. MAYBE your 400K one is just well built and will last PERIOD! Mine has something going on that it doesn't want to last.

well, i tried playing with the linkage adjustment but it doesn't look the same as the FSM shows. maybe I can bend the shifter piece a bit more, since it got pretty twisted pulling it out. i only need a couple mm to get this right. I can bang the gear selector into D, but i'd rather it just slide in and move the shifter to D.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

there's 2 bushings, one on each end of the cable. USUALLY the one underneath the shifter goes... maybe cuz the hot CatConv is just below it? who knows. Mine was missing when i got my car, and occasionally i had to go into 2nd then D to get D to take. Also sometimes the car would not start in P cuz it thought it was in R when it wasn't.

this is what my shifter-side of my cable looked like before i put the bushing in (click.. it's a video):

1993-VG30E-GXE

You guys are bloody hilarious. Sounds like one of my many near death experiences. As Matt93 says, one day I will meet an untimely unexpected death...when I least expect it. It's true, I must have 9 lives, but i'm wondering how many are left. I'm thinking of getting back into downhill skiing, maybe head over to BC to ski some avalanche slopes....or those INSANE glad runs in Utah & Jacksonhole. Although suffocating in the dark is not the ideal way. My buddy just got back from BC and he said the girls are wild out there, not like here, they are like real outdoors girls but they look good, not like dogs. Is this true Abbotsford? Or is he just pretending like he got tail, and I bet his whole trip was empty handed.

1993-VG30E-GXE

I'll take a photo later. It's covered in light spray paint mist from my engine parts painting.

canucklehead

I keep hearing Montreal is the place to go to get blown away by the talent. I guess there's some around here, but i can't believe it's much better than everywhere else. One of the girl's from Timmins sure looks hot! But overall, I think your buddy's trip wasn't quite "empty handed" ...that's probably all he got.

hey CC, thanks for the video. I'll check that one too.