guys, finally i m getting hands on this VE5....i didnt go take a look at it yet but guy is saying that it needs a tranny seal and leaking fluid...i m getting it for $500...its a clean car inside and outside...looks from the pics...but jus wanna get opinion from u guys before i go and buy it...is it worth buying it and then working on it? i never owned a VE with standard transmission so needs opnion from guys who have worked on it and still working on it...and is there any noticeable difference wen u go from VE AUTO to VE5? is it more reliable than VE AUTO? Thanks

and yes thats tan leather not cloth

 

to me its worth it. all you have to do is fix the tranny and the car looks in a good condition.... and it has leather

 

going from a VG auto to a VG manual is a big step up. no doubt it's the same for the VE. Lemme put it this way.... my VG5 outran AM_blackmax's VE auto at Maxus.... only mod I have that he doesn't is a WSP ypipe.

look at James92se's thread about getting that shifter rod seal replaced (i assume that's the "tranny seal" the seller was talking about.... otherwise it's just axle seals, which are pie)

 

a ride that clean for a price that low is always worth it... even if you can't fix it for a couple of months, when you do the thing will be worth much more than what you paid and invested...

 

I could use the seats... but yeah that's a pretty sweet ride

 

For $500, heck, dude, no need to even ask if it's worth it. It's a no brainer

Heck yes there's a HUGE difference between the 5 speed and the auto. The VE auto is such a dog down low it's almost comical. VE auto guys really don't know what they're missing unless they've actually driven a VE 5. And people like me telling you so on the internet still doesn't do it justice. Slap a $25 eBay CAI on that and even with just that you'll be amazed how the VE 5 screams.

Also, yes, I'd say it's more reliable than a VE auto simply because in general manual transmissions are more reliable than autos.

As far as the transmission leak, it's almost guaranteed to be leaking at the strike rod seal. You have to take the yoke off to get the strike rod seal out, then tap in a new one. I'd warn you that taking the yoke off is a monumentally huge PITA (as the one I did a few weeks back was), but it seems to be a crap shoot. I did another one today on the transmission I just got back from the shop, and that sucker came right off like cake.

 

thanks for the input guys i appreciate that.....i jus came bak from looking at the car....Car is clean as hell and engine is more cleaner than i expected.... i jus gotta go tomorrow and pick up the car.....and James how long did it take u to change the the strike rod seal? can u do it at home? i cant do it at the shop cuz there too much rush and i m too busy doing other stuff and wont be able to do it there...unless i get lucky and its super slow (which i did never see YET). And how about the differential oil seal...gud idea to change that too or dont need to?...

 

looks like a nice ride. Is that car in Canada or Washington?

It seems like there are a lot of clean VE-5s in the Northwest, usually at a decent price, too. I see them on CL in Portland and Seattle fairly often. I saw a $500 VE-5 on the Seattle CL last week, but I don't remember what color or even if there were pics. I sent a link to MrGone trying to get him to buy another one.

 

"differential oil seal" on a fwd car is actually the axle seals. if you want you can pull the axles and change those seals too.

as for the one on the shifter, it CAN be a hugehugehugehuge pita to remove, but can be done at home. if you're lucky it'll just come off after you punch the lockpin out. if not, you will have to carefully destroy it to get it off, then buy a new one ($18 from courtesy.. dunno about shipping to canuckistan) and put it on with the new seal, new lockpins (srsly you do not want this thing coming off!) and probably a new striking rod bellows/dustboot too.

 

Hah it seems to be the same color as the one you have now.

 

thanks cape...i would just install new lockpins with new seal...but i have still yet to confirm if its strike rod seal...most likely it is but lets see...

no its not the same...i thought the same before but wen i saw in person it has a light goldish color and the one i own is grey.....

 

Oh and what oil do u guys use in ur manual trannies?

 

GL-4 (which is just 75w90)

 

i've been using Pennzoil Synchromesh..... which i don't preciesly recommend. Try something nicer like Motul or Royal Purple or Redline (make sure it's GL-4 of course)

 

For what it's worth, I just picked up my rebuilt tranny yesterday, and he insisted I run 75w90 synthetic, and he was really adamant about the synthetic part lol

*edit* well, now I'm confused. He directed me to some 75w90 synthetic stuff at O'Reillys, Castrol Syntec, which I bought. Now that I look at it I notice that it says GL-5 everywhere on the back. I thought GL-5 wasn't to be run in GL-4 transmissions?

Looking at the Redline stuff, they have a 75w90 GL-5 "differential oil" that says it's NOT to be used in most manual transmissions, as well as the 75w90 GL-4 "gear oil". What's the difference if they're both 75w90?

I'm wondering if I need to return the Castrol Syntec stuff I bought

 

b/c the differential (rwd/awd cars) does not have synchros to worry about, and the transmission itself does. This is something i'm learning when reading about my z... that you don't use the same fluid in the diff as you do in the tranny.

On FWD it's all one unit, so you use the GL-4 transmission "gear oil" so you don't corrode your synchros.

75w90 is just the viscosity characteristics... you can probably have 75w90 Aunt Jemima Pancake Syrup too... but i wouldn't recommend putting that ish in your tranny....

but if your castrol stuff is ONLY gl-5, then return it, and get something that's GL-4.

 

Hmm, yeah, that makes sense. I wonder why he wasn't adamant about "GL-4", and only "75w90 synthetic". It looks like all the "75w90" you can buy in stores is all GL-5, which makes it quite easy to pick up the wrong stuff (which it sure seems like I did)

 

cuz i think newer manual trannies are GL-5 compatible. Kinda like the whole Dexron standard in ATF... 99% of a/t cars i've ever seen use the DexronIII, but some newer ones use VI or something... and probably some older ones use I or II (if such a thing exists?) or even some other standard entirely. Same with DOT 3/4/5 brake fluid.. some use 3/4, some use 5.

 

ok so 75w90 with GL-4? wat if it says 75w90 gl4 and gl5 compatible?

 

that's fine. that's like saying "this hat fits girls and boys".. as long as it works with GL-4, who cares if it works for other things as well.

 

ok towed the VE today at my house and i found out that operating cylinder is gone and piston is broken inside...is that why its slipping?...my noobish habits are great wen it comes to manual trans...and guy has ATF in the slave cylinder....

 

nope. slipping means the clutch is worn or the slave cylinder is applying pressure to the fork. a broken slave cylinder piston would likely have the opposite effect (incomplete disengagement and difficult/grinding shifts).

now is there ATF in the master cylinder's reservoir too or JUST at the tail end of the system (slave cylinder)?

 

guy told me he recently changed the clutch and even gave me the number of the shop where he changed it from but didnt have any paper work for it...

i was talking about slave cylinder....there is proper brake fluid in master cylinder but he put ATF in ''clutch's master cylinder'' (i thought that called slave cylinder?) lol....yes there is ATF and is leaking through operating cylinder which is above the starter...which i pulled out and it has a broken piston in it? maybe thats the only problem with the transmission and guy didnt know? maybe thats the only part i have to change?

 

here is the picture of wat i m talking about its kinda blurry tho....

 

and i think this is pretty much it that i have to buy?

http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts...ma%20SE~241150

 

For the trans fluid use Redline MT-90, it is synthetic 75W90 GL-4 fluid and has always made shifts MUCH smoother over non-synthetic on all my cars. It has also held up to the heavy abuse of my driving habits with turbo so I cant recommend it enough. Although I currently have a VE trans on my VG, my results were the same with my VG trans. You will notice the difference instantly and thank me.

 

Okay, wtf, ATF in the clutch system? It should be brake fluid. Why did HE put ATF in it if he says he had the clutch changed a shop? They would have done all that

Secondly, if I were you I'd just put a new clutch master cylinder (firewall) AND slave cylinder (above starter) on it, they're not that much money. Your picture looks to be the slave cylinder (although you can't really "put fluid" in it, so I don't know how he could have put ATF in it), so yes, that link to autopartsway is what you need. If the reservoir on the clutch master cylinder is fine then the system may not be leaking. He could be an idiot and tried to externally "add" ATF to the slave cylinder which would explain it "leaking" ATF (i.e., it "leaking" because there's really nowhere for it to go internally)

*edit*, also, what do you mean by the clutch is slipping? Either I'm blind or I don't see any post here with you describing the symptoms. If the slave cylinder or master cylinder are defective in any way, your most obvious sympton will likely be that it's tough to get into gear.

 

ok sorry for the confusion....he put ATF in the clutch master cylinder (hes an idiot) and cuz of the clutch slave cylinder being defective(as u can see in the pic) ATF was leaking through there....so i had to flush it by taking the slave cylinder out and pushing the clutch from inside and by putting the brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder so all ATF is out now....NOW in transmission there is no fluid so i gotta put in tomorrow....and will see if it is leaking somewhere and i got the new clutch slave cylinder for 25 bucks from Lordco (local store)...and i hope that was the only problem...and my god royal purple 75w90 synthetic gear oil was 34 bucks for a litter....thats too expensive man....how about pennziol?

edit: and for the symptons, i dont really know my self either till i drive the car my self..i m just telling u guys wat i was told by the guy....so tomorrow i m installing new clutch slave cylinder and putting new fluid in the tranny and will drive the car then i will see wat i can find out...if u guys have any suggestion or tips share plzz...

 

Lordco should sell redline.......
http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.aspx
type in your postal code and see what pops up.

as for putting the fluid in, you can use a long-reach funnel and put the fluid in from the speed sensor hole, rather than the sideways-facing plug at the front of the tranny where you are "supposed" to put it in. with the car parked on level ground, open the plug on the front, then fill it up from the speed sensor hole till you fluid starts to come out the open plug at the front. that will ensure your fluid level is perfect (tho you might waste a few mL of fluid that way but if you go slowly and keep the funnel mostly empty as you pour, you won't waste THAT much). having a helper watch for fluid coming out the front (or even to quickly put the plug in to stop leakage) might be a good idea.

 

Thanks for the tip cap I didn't think of that. So I have to take the speed sensor out eh? (duh) lol easier tho and helpful

 

well if you try and fill it from the side plug you are gonna have to hold the bottle sideways which makes it almost impossible to get the entire contents of the bottle to come out. pouring it into the speed sensor hole lets you have the bottle straight up and down.

 

lmao, that sounds delicious in a strange way!

Although it's too late, I'd recommend Redline MT90 which is 75w90 GL4, I paid about 10-12 USD per quart (not liter or litre if it turns you on) and I believe its about 5 quarts..

I've tried both Royal Purple AND Redline, I've yet to try Redline during the extreme cold winter. I've heard it works beautifully even then its freezing outside, I remember with Royal Purple it took a bit of warmth for the shifter to actually move smoothly. Just a couple more months and I shall get to test Redline for myself since its not cold just yet

 

how much exactly does it take? fsm states 4.2-4.5 litres (8-7/8 -- 9-1/2 pt)...

 

well it says that the 'fill line' is all the way up to the lip of the side-fill plug. that's why i was saying fill it up from the speed sensor hole until a little fluid comes out the front hole, that way you know it's at the right level (cuz with that plug open, it can't go over... just spills out)

 

oh no i know that i was jus asking cuz i gotta go buy it

 

duh

get 5 qt/liter bottles

 

ok installed new slave cylinder and did the bleeding...and there were already fluid in the transmission so i didnt buy any....NOW, wen i depress the clutch pedal i can change the gears very smoothly BUT wen i let go the clutch pedal there this noise coming like grinding kinda of noise....guy said he changed the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel(i duno if hes lying or not) i mean he didnt do it someone else did it for him...now the question is that did he only change the clutch and left some of the old stuff in there and put it back? old stuff gonna settle down and noise gonna go away by it self with time?

 

does the grinding happen when the car is off (maybe a problem with the pedal itself) or only when it's running? if so, does it grind AS you are releasing the clutch (TOB) or only once it's fully released (ISB)?

 

it only happens wen car is running and grinding noise comes as soon i release the clutch pedal after shifting the gear...i will drive it again and will notice again to be sure...

 

ok so only when you are moving... hmm... are you sure it's got to do with the tranny? as in, could it possibly be brakes or wheel bearings instead?