good deal?
i jus came bak after test driving it....noise comes doesn't matter if the car is running or idling...if i let the clutch go while idling noise comes back and depress the clutch everything is so quite....and i noticed that it comes in 1st gear more actually it gets quieter as u r shifting into next gear...higher the gear less the noise...if its something else it shouldn't be coming while idling rite? it has to do something with tranny and clutch pedal...not disengaging / engaging properly? could be release bearing?
Last edited by burhan92SE; Sep 15, 2009 at 02:13 PM.
that's why you slip a piece of hose over the nipple on the gear oils bottle cap and stick the other end in the hole.
brian......... you and your logic.anyhow.. if it grinds even at idle, and pushing the clutch is the only way to make it shut up (short of shutting the car off) then it's almost certainly the ISB.
It might be fairly pricey to have done at a shop, but in order to PROPERLY do it yourself, you would need a tool to remeasure the shims for the bearings so that your input shaft endplay is correct. and i'm not sure if it's a generic tool, or if the only place you can get it is from Nissan. Look at the section starting on MT-29 in the 94 FSM for more information about setting bearing preload and what equipment you would need to do it. And while you're in there might want to replace the input shaft oil seal as well to help prevent future leaks.
brian......... you and your logic.anyhow.. if it grinds even at idle, and pushing the clutch is the only way to make it shut up (short of shutting the car off) then it's almost certainly the ISB.
It might be fairly pricey to have done at a shop, but in order to PROPERLY do it yourself, you would need a tool to remeasure the shims for the bearings so that your input shaft endplay is correct. and i'm not sure if it's a generic tool, or if the only place you can get it is from Nissan. Look at the section starting on MT-29 in the 94 FSM for more information about setting bearing preload and what equipment you would need to do it. And while you're in there might want to replace the input shaft oil seal as well to help prevent future leaks.
basically. not terribly difficult tho... if you drain the tranny ahead of time (like last thing at night, then wake up and start working on the car in the morning) you can get the sucker out in 45 minutes flat. reinstallation takes slightly longer, but as long as you don't touch the clutch (ie so it stays dead-center over the flywheel) it usually lines up pretty easily when you are sliding it back on.
basically. not terribly difficult tho... if you drain the tranny ahead of time (like last thing at night, then wake up and start working on the car in the morning) you can get the sucker out in 45 minutes flat. reinstallation takes slightly longer, but as long as you don't touch the clutch (ie so it stays dead-center over the flywheel) it usually lines up pretty easily when you are sliding it back on.
ok..i will make a video of it
i get wut u saying....but its alot of work and i dont wanna do this mess at home...u have done it many times and it is easier to u...i m doing the manual tranny work on MAXIMA first time so its gonna take time for me....its different if i done it so many times and know exactly wat i m doing....i will jus take it to shop and diagnose it more..it might be something else...plus i will make a video as well....anyways lets keep trying to find a solution
i get wut u saying....but its alot of work and i dont wanna do this mess at home...u have done it many times and it is easier to u...i m doing the manual tranny work on MAXIMA first time so its gonna take time for me....its different if i done it so many times and know exactly wat i m doing....i will jus take it to shop and diagnose it more..it might be something else...plus i will make a video as well....anyways lets keep trying to find a solution

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MikesChevelle
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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