Speaker Upgrade
I've read 3 or 4 different posts, and this is the only post that actually shed any light on my subject.
You guys are telling me that I can't bypass my amps with the stock HU, and if I wanted to, I would have to buy an Aftermarket HU anyways?
Would it not be easier to just re-wire the entire setup, Hu to eatch speaker?
Right now, my RF speaker is the only one working, there is static coming from that speaker, when the rear speakers were working I could barely hear anything out of them. when the LF speaker is connected it makes this horrible squealing sound almost like a england Police siren, then it pops and crackles, So I've Took it out for now.
Just by looking at the speakers and the amps I can tell the speakers are fine.
But little did I know when I bought the car less than a month ago, that a tree had fallen on the roof and its all been replaced.
Oh, and when they were waiting to replace the roof, EVERYTHING got rained on. This might be my problem.
If it is, What would be easier bypassing the amps, or just buying a new HU with speaker wire, and 4 new speakers with no amp ( for now)?
You guys are telling me that I can't bypass my amps with the stock HU, and if I wanted to, I would have to buy an Aftermarket HU anyways?
Would it not be easier to just re-wire the entire setup, Hu to eatch speaker?
Right now, my RF speaker is the only one working, there is static coming from that speaker, when the rear speakers were working I could barely hear anything out of them. when the LF speaker is connected it makes this horrible squealing sound almost like a england Police siren, then it pops and crackles, So I've Took it out for now.
Just by looking at the speakers and the amps I can tell the speakers are fine.
But little did I know when I bought the car less than a month ago, that a tree had fallen on the roof and its all been replaced.
Oh, and when they were waiting to replace the roof, EVERYTHING got rained on. This might be my problem.
If it is, What would be easier bypassing the amps, or just buying a new HU with speaker wire, and 4 new speakers with no amp ( for now)?
If you have individually amplified speakers then it is the Blose system. If you only have 1 amp for the rear then it is not Blose and this doesn't pertain to you.
on a Blose system you can replace the HU with an aftermarket one, with issues.
the Blose system essentially uses line output signals rather than speaker out signals to each speaker/amp combo. if you apply straight speaker out it will be louder, but stands a very good chance of blowing your H/U because of wrong resistance.
The stock speakers are 1ohm resistance, most systems run on 4-8 ohm resistance.
the best option is to get a new H/U and speakers, bypass the amps and be done with it.
on a Blose system you can replace the HU with an aftermarket one, with issues.
the Blose system essentially uses line output signals rather than speaker out signals to each speaker/amp combo. if you apply straight speaker out it will be louder, but stands a very good chance of blowing your H/U because of wrong resistance.
The stock speakers are 1ohm resistance, most systems run on 4-8 ohm resistance.
the best option is to get a new H/U and speakers, bypass the amps and be done with it.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 10
From: Maiden, NC
If you have individually amplified speakers then it is the Blose system. If you only have 1 amp for the rear then it is not Blose and this doesn't pertain to you.
on a Blose system you can replace the HU with an aftermarket one, with issues.
the Blose system essentially uses line output signals rather than speaker out signals to each speaker/amp combo. if you apply straight speaker out it will be louder, but stands a very good chance of blowing your H/U because of wrong resistance.
The stock speakers are 1ohm resistance, most systems run on 4-8 ohm resistance.
the best option is to get a new H/U and speakers, bypass the amps and be done with it.
on a Blose system you can replace the HU with an aftermarket one, with issues.
the Blose system essentially uses line output signals rather than speaker out signals to each speaker/amp combo. if you apply straight speaker out it will be louder, but stands a very good chance of blowing your H/U because of wrong resistance.
The stock speakers are 1ohm resistance, most systems run on 4-8 ohm resistance.
the best option is to get a new H/U and speakers, bypass the amps and be done with it.
I know what I have, but thanks for clarifying anyway. My question was should I bypass the amps with the factory HU. OR Should I just rewire the whole thing?. It would make no sense to buy a New HU and then use the factory Amps and just mess it up. If I'm going to buy a new HU then why even bother bypassing the amps? it sounds useless to me. But none the less thanks for helping!.
Also, why would the signal lights go out after messing with the radio, I found out today that the Dimmer lights for the gauge cluster are interweaved into the Radio wires, are the signal lights also weaved into the radio wires as well?
I know what I have, but thanks for clarifying anyway. My question was should I bypass the amps with the factory HU. OR Should I just rewire the whole thing?. It would make no sense to buy a New HU and then use the factory Amps and just mess it up. If I'm going to buy a new HU then why even bother bypassing the amps? it sounds useless to me. But none the less thanks for helping!.
Also, why would the signal lights go out after messing with the radio, I found out today that the Dimmer lights for the gauge cluster are interweaved into the Radio wires, are the signal lights also weaved into the radio wires as well?
Also, why would the signal lights go out after messing with the radio, I found out today that the Dimmer lights for the gauge cluster are interweaved into the Radio wires, are the signal lights also weaved into the radio wires as well?
don't bother rewiring the whole thing as it is entirely unnecessary.
the signal wires are hooked to the hazard switch, unplug the switch lose your signals
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magiconthetire
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