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why does it do this?

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Old 09-16-2009, 11:34 AM
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why does it do this?

my 3rd gen has done this crap for about 2 years now. it all started back then when one day i turned the key and it didnt start. I checked everything and it was all good. gave up and called AMA. the guy rocked it back and forth hard and it started, he said its a loose wire and nothing to worry about.

it happens about once every 2 weeks now, it wont start when i turn the key, get out, rock it aggressively back and forth, and it starts. yesterday it did it and it took me half a hour to get it going, i heard a click after i rocked it for the final time and it started

is it the parking pawl or what? its happened about 2 dozen times in total and its usually only when i park on flat surfaces. when i throw it in park i always gently wiggle it so i know its fully in park
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Old 09-16-2009, 11:40 AM
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shifter bushings are worn/missing?
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Old 09-16-2009, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
shifter bushings are worn/missing?
+1, they can be accessed above the catalytic converter and cost $4 or something at the stealership.

When you are parking your car, with your foot on the brake, put it in Park, and before you lift your foot off of the brake, pull the E-brake up to where the car won't rock when you take your foot off of the brake. Basically holding the car and the axles in park where you left it.
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:38 PM
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sounds like the shifter bushings are done for or missing. if this happens just push the button the shifter in and push the shifter forward a few times and then start the car. i had this problem as well but then i converted to 5 speed.
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:11 PM
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^^^ To expand on what he said, I had the same issue about 10 years ago in my original VE auto. I used to have to put it in neutral, then back into P (or varying combinations of the two), and then it would start
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:18 PM
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It could also be a bad flywheel, if the teeth are messed up the starter might not be able to engage the ring gear. Rocking it to a different position might be what lets it start.
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TWINTRBO
It could also be a bad flywheel, if the teeth are messed up the starter might not be able to engage the ring gear. Rocking it to a different position might be what lets it start.
rocking it would not change the position of the ring gear relative to the starter... not on an automatic anyhow, because the engine has to be running for the automatic to have fluid pressure, and has to have fluid pressure in order for the t/c to work.

besides if that were the case he'd be able to hear the starter whirring uselessly.
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:49 PM
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I disagree, you would get a little movement there because its still connected via ATF fluid even if its not under full pressure. Also I suggested the starter gear is not extending enough to engage the ring gear, maybe I'm wrong but I thought the starter does not spin until its fully entended?
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:15 PM
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Have you ever tried to move the ring gear by hand?... It's not something that would move around by itself and "rocking the car" would not make it change position either...

If the vehicle is not starting and shifting in and out of gear makes it start then as it's already been stated... it's the shifter bushing uppet:

Last edited by kringle03; 09-16-2009 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TWINTRBO
I disagree, you would get a little movement there because its still connected via ATF fluid even if its not under full pressure. Also I suggested the starter gear is not extending enough to engage the ring gear, maybe I'm wrong but I thought the starter does not spin until its fully entended?
no... you wouldn't get any movement. I understand where you're coming from, but you forgot to account for the way clutches and bands in an a/t work. see, it doesn't matter how much fluid is just sitting in the trans case, if it's not pressurized it CANNOT actuate the clutches or bands, and thus cannot engage a gear. If you cannot engage a gear, you cannot transmit torque from the wheels to the torque converter. Now, if you managed to modify the tranny (would destroy it of course) so that, say, 2nd gear were permanently engaged (by welding and whatnot) then the wheels could MAYBE move the engine, because of the ambient fluid in the t/c... so i think that's what you were thinking. But without a gear engaged, nothing can happen.

I actually just tested your theory on my way to get dinner. At 50mph (far far far faster than the wheels would move if you rocked the car), I shut the key off while the car was in D. I could still hear the engine spinning. I moved the shifter into N. The engine stopped. I turned the key back on. Speed 50mph, tach 0RPM. I moved the shifter into D, then 2, then L. Speed 50mph, tach 0RPM.


as for the starter spinning before/after it's extended... the starter extends due to the helical grooves on the motor shaft and starter gear. the motor shaft spins first and the spiral shape of the grooves causes the starter gear to move outward. then once the engine catches and starts, the ring gear spins the starter gear faster than the starter motor shaft, which shoves the starter back toward the starter. of course if you keep holding the starter it will keep trying to extend to the ring gear and keep getting kicked back by the ring gear really fast... which is the grinding sound you hear.

cliffs: it's not the ring gear

Last edited by CapedCadaver; 09-16-2009 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:24 PM
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I almost always use the Ebrake when i park, it holds a bit but not much (when i first got the Max i got my H/U installed and they threw on the Ebrake and i never noticed and drove on it for a few minutes), it holds decently for parking but if i went on slushly snow and ripped it i couldnt powerslide a bit

I also have to wiggle the shifter to get into drive, I have to wiggle it down a bit before it engages and then its all good

any longterm effects of not replacing the shifter bushing?
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
any longterm effects of not replacing the shifter bushing?
Five years going on six of having mine in that condition... other than an annoyance... none to my knowledge...
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:45 PM
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can the play in the shifter bushings also be adjusted out a little by playing with the linkage adjustment (under the middle of the car)? I just replaced my auto tranny and shifing from P into D was loose. I over-adjusted and now when I shift from D back towards P, it doesn't engage perfectly into R. So I'll tweak the adjustment one more time. I also WAY over-adjusted it the other way, and postion N actually put the car in reverse. It's a bit of a trick to find the sweet spot.
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:21 AM
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just push the gear up when that happens thats all you have to do you dont have fix anything
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
can the play in the shifter bushings also be adjusted out a little by playing with the linkage adjustment (under the middle of the car)? I just replaced my auto tranny and shifing from P into D was loose. I over-adjusted and now when I shift from D back towards P, it doesn't engage perfectly into R. So I'll tweak the adjustment one more time. I also WAY over-adjusted it the other way, and postion N actually put the car in reverse. It's a bit of a trick to find the sweet spot.
you can't adjust it out...... if it could, why would we be telling you to replace the bushings? besides the fact that it's actually EASIER to replace the bushings than it is to adjust the linkage! this is the ONE problem i've never understood why EVERYONE that has it always tries to avoid doing it! it only costs FOUR EFFING DOLLARS! and takes two minutes and ten seconds to change!

this is what it looks like without a bushing. big hole, tiny pin. so you see that if you move the shifter there is slack on either side before anything starts to move the cable. then when you push the stick back the other way, the slack goes to the opposite side.



Originally Posted by shortymust23
just push the gear up when that happens thats all you have to do you dont have fix anything
honestely dude? it's f*ckin $4 worth of parts... why the hell NOT fix it? if that's the best advice you've got, then don't bother giving it....
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:43 AM
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technically you shouldn't have to adjust it...EVER.
get the bushings done..it's cheap.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
technically you shouldn't have to adjust it...EVER.
get the bushings done..it's cheap.
well now that the one guy adjusted his he's gonna have to fine-tune it once he gets the bushings in there.. but yea, if you never touch it, you should never have to.
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:33 PM
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Your helical gear explanation makes sense but I dont think I've ever seen helical gears on a starter. I will however concede I was wrong about the gear. This is my first slushbox and I guess its pretty different. I am confused about your experiment, I was told at some point you could push start an auto if you pushed it fast enough, guess thats fiction too.

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
no... you wouldn't get any movement. I understand where you're coming from, but you forgot to account for the way clutches and bands in an a/t work. see, it doesn't matter how much fluid is just sitting in the trans case, if it's not pressurized it CANNOT actuate the clutches or bands, and thus cannot engage a gear. If you cannot engage a gear, you cannot transmit torque from the wheels to the torque converter. Now, if you managed to modify the tranny (would destroy it of course) so that, say, 2nd gear were permanently engaged (by welding and whatnot) then the wheels could MAYBE move the engine, because of the ambient fluid in the t/c... so i think that's what you were thinking. But without a gear engaged, nothing can happen.

I actually just tested your theory on my way to get dinner. At 50mph (far far far faster than the wheels would move if you rocked the car), I shut the key off while the car was in D. I could still hear the engine spinning. I moved the shifter into N. The engine stopped. I turned the key back on. Speed 50mph, tach 0RPM. I moved the shifter into D, then 2, then L. Speed 50mph, tach 0RPM.


as for the starter spinning before/after it's extended... the starter extends due to the helical grooves on the motor shaft and starter gear. the motor shaft spins first and the spiral shape of the grooves causes the starter gear to move outward. then once the engine catches and starts, the ring gear spins the starter gear faster than the starter motor shaft, which shoves the starter back toward the starter. of course if you keep holding the starter it will keep trying to extend to the ring gear and keep getting kicked back by the ring gear really fast... which is the grinding sound you hear.

cliffs: it's not the ring gear
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Old 09-17-2009, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TWINTRBO
Your helical gear explanation makes sense but I dont think I've ever seen helical gears on a starter. I will however concede I was wrong about the gear. This is my first slushbox and I guess its pretty different. I am confused about your experiment, I was told at some point you could push start an auto if you pushed it fast enough, guess thats fiction too.
you can push start an A/T but you need to be moving seriously fast to get the converter moving fast enough to turn the engine fast enough. Not as easy as it sounds.
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Old 09-17-2009, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TWINTRBO
Your helical gear explanation makes sense but I dont think I've ever seen helical gears on a starter. I will however concede I was wrong about the gear. This is my first slushbox and I guess its pretty different. I am confused about your experiment, I was told at some point you could push start an auto if you pushed it fast enough, guess thats fiction too.
the helical gear is inside the starter where you can't see it, on ours at least. you can see it on some electric-start lawn mower starters tho. that's how i found out it existed

kinda like this: http://www.dansmc.com/starter3.jpg

Originally Posted by internetautomar
you can push start an A/T but you need to be moving seriously fast to get the converter moving fast enough to turn the engine fast enough. Not as easy as it sounds.
it must depend on the design... because 50mph imo is "seriously fast" when trying to push start a car. but since the clutches and bands cannot engage the gears, the t/c isn't even gonna spin...at least not on any 3rd gen maxima and/or 3rd gen camry a/t. unless you're saying that the bearing friction (or perhaps proximity-related cltuch/band friction) is what you're relying on to get the t/c to spin.
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:01 PM
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i'll get it fixed on my next day off, i'm sick of it. ive been worried it would do it at a bad time (so far the worst has been right before i had to go to work but i got there on time still), and ive been worried in the drive-in carwash where you shut off your car it will happen or something. just now i went to get gas and it did it, looks a bit awkward buttraping your car to get it going infront of 20 people
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:56 AM
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Although I agree it may very well be the shifter bushing, usually the first complaint of this is the transmission not shifting into D until you pull the shifter into 2 or 1. Another possibility is the starter motor brushes. In a 5sp, rocking the car with it in gear is a common way to get a car with bad starter bushes to start. The other common diagnosis of this (when it won't start), is to get someone to hold the key on start and give the starter a hit with a small hammer/spanner/pliers or similar, if it immediately cranks and starts, then it is probably the starter brushes.
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:16 PM
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for me, sometimes my car doesnt start either, all i gotta do is push my **** up and it starts lol.
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