I am almost ready to get my car back on the road, but I was wondering how difficult is it to remove the transmission myself along with some help? The cheapest prices for tranny removal so far have been about $250, with the highest at about $700 just for removal alone! I dont want to have to spend extra cash if I dont have to, although $250 is not a bad price. Still shopping around for either a low mileage used one or one that is rebuilt with a warranty that wont put a hole in my pocket, and also still considering the local pull a part that has them for $80 bucks. If anyone has any suggestions that can help out it would be great. Also where is the governor and the tranny pump located?

 

the pump is behind the TC.
governor is on the top under a black cap looking thing.

general steps...(not in any particular order)
unbolt the TC from the fly wheel
remove tranny mounts
disconnect all linkage
disconnect all electrical harness
unbolt tranny from engine
slide tranny back and down

IMO the worst part is lowering the tranny w/o hitting yourself in the head.
you also need to lift the car high enough to clear the tranny.

is it difficult? no...but it's not an oil change.
there is some heavy lifting and pushing involved and i highly recommend getting another person or two to help you.

 

don't forget draining and unhooking fluid cooler lines and yea a tranny jack is a big help but it also means you have to lift the car an extra 8" to compensate for the compressed height of the jack, which I didn't do, which caused problems. I had to chuck-norris kick the tranny off the jack which sent the t/c flying off and fluid everywhere... not fun. next time i pulled one it went smoothly tho (nc90gxe's 5spd swap)

 

oh yeah...the lines...
i know it sucks but get that front nose as high as you can get it. it'll make things a little easier.

 

I have a question, the haynes manual says to mark the relationship of the torque converter to the drive plate or flywheel or something like that, it also states to do the same thing to the passenger side cv axle carrier bearing. Just wondering if this is really necessary?

 

tc might be... when i removed my brother's tranny on his a/t camry, i just took everything off and put it back on whichever way.... and now the engine vibrates alot, esp in reverse. so it's quite possible.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/2

 

Well So far guys I have removed the battery tray and battery, Air filter and hoses, unplugged all tranny related plugs, disassembled the shift cable from the tranny, unbolted all top 6 or 7 tranny to engine screws plus the starter, and 2 or 3 tranny to engine screws on the bottom. I know the next thing I have to do is unplug the tranny cooler lines. Ive also taken out the driver side cv joint. Everything is pretty much loose since Ive had the bad tranny removed and replaced with another bad tranny, So my question is this? Are there just 2 tranny mounts?? I wanted to make sure because they are a peice of cake to get to and they are already pre loosened, So all I have to do next is sit it under a tranny jack, jack the car up high enough, and loosen the torque converter bolts? Is the engine going to need to be supported with a small jack under the oil pan? Im trying to save myself $250 by doing this myself and with the help of maybe 2 friends. I have the tools and the skills and the ORG! SO any suggestions would be appreciated. Also when reinstalling the tranny is there a way to know that the torque converter is fully inside the tranny, or all the way in?

 

Read the FSM.
IIRC there are 2 sets of splines that need to engage, first set is easy the second takes some work and goes in with a pop since you are getting it past an O-ring.
MAKE SURE THAT BOTH SETS ARE ENGAGED OR YOU WILL BE PULLING THE TRANS BACK OUT.
just had that issue on jeep

 

Ok I will make sure I do that when reistalling the tranny.

 

I realize this is an old thread, the crossmember is off except for the two engine mount things. I used pb blaster and a pipe on a half drive ratchet . I'm pulling my body instead of turning the bolt. I do need this because the car the transmission is going into has a rotted crossmember and was told the transmission was being held in with electric wire ties. Thinking I might be better of using a sawzall to cut those bolts and replace them. Thank you much for any input.