Hey there folks.

I'm changing out my control arms along with new bushings and for some reason the control arm bushing on the leading end of the control arm is sticking to the gusset thread. I can move the arm up and down like normal, but control arm won't come off! I've sprayed wd-40 on and around the bushing hoping that it might break something up, but to no avail. I thought once the bolt was removed that the control arm would slide off the gusset thread without much hassle. Anyone got any ideas on how to resolve this little issue? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU!!!

 

I had to take off the control arm and the entire other piece that that joint is connected to when i did my bushings. using a drill to break up the old rubber works really well.
Are you replacing with poly bushings? if you're replacing with oem rubber you need a press. and it's basially a whole lot easier to just buy new CA's w/ bushings already installed.

 

There's probably rust buildup where the inner bushing wasn't riding. Now that you want to pull it out, it's difficult. I got lucky and sprayed it with WD40 and was able to wiggle it out while moving up/down.

 

1. Bend the control arm back and forth to tear the rubber in the bushing apart, or use a pulley puller to pull the arm off and rip the . You can destroy the bushing since you're throwing it away anyway.

2. once the arm is off, use a wire wheel on a grinder (or something) to remove all of the rubber from the inner sleeve.

3. Take a propane (or hotter) torch and heat the sleeve for a couple of minutes.

4. use some channel locks or pipe wrench to try to turn the sleeve. If it doesn't turn, keep heating.

5. once it starts turning, give it a couple turns to loosen it up- you might have to heat it up again to get it moving after a minute.

6. after a couple turns, use some vice grips or channel locks to twist and pull on it at the same time. keep twisting and pulling until it comes off.

7. Watch out! That ***** is HOT when it comes off the car! don't grab with bare hands!


As a note/precaution... DO NOT heat the gusset (metal stub) on the car until it's red hot. You will ruin the strength of the steel by affecting the heat treatment. If you do get it too hot, let it cool over time in air. do not use water or compressed air or oil or anything to quickly cool it. That will harden the steel and make it brittle. last thing you want is for something in your suspension to be brittle!!

you shouldn't need that much heat anyway, but thought I'd give you fair warning.

 

Well, I finally got the bish off. It had one tiny spot of rust about the size of a BB that was causing it to cling on like an illegal to its free medical. >>bah dah dah PSHHH!!!<< I raised the car a bit higher, stepped down on the control arm and heard a LOUD groan. Pulled it back upwards...quieter groan....pushed it back down and it popped loose. YAY! The control arm I installed had all the bushings, but the friggin ball joint was installed backwards. About 5 minutes and that was corrected. I really wish I had a lift and a good 1/2" socket set, had to borrow my neighbors sockets. Anyways, thanks for your help!

 

Watch the Christmas sales at Sears. good deals to be had on that stuff!!

Glad it was easier than some of them I've seen. I highly suggest coating the inside of the bushings with a thin layer of anti-seize.. might help for next time, assuming there will be a next time..

 

Thanks for the tip on the Sear tool sales. I'll defanatly be hitting that up.

There won't be a next time, I don't plan on keeping the car for more than 2 more years.

 

heh.. we all say that. I've had mine going on 11 years now.

 

...But it's been sitting in your yard since January!

 

backwards as in upside down?,make sure the bigger rear bushing has the flat side against the car or the arm might have been for the other side
i think the arms are the same except the relation of the rear bushings flat spot
and the installation direction of the balljoint ,anyone?

 

Hey now.. I started it last weekend and let it run for a while to blow the cobwebs out.
found a hairline crack in the radiator and the trailer was in the way, so I didn't bother driving it.

Yup. arms are identical. the balljoint and bushing just need to be flipped and you're done.

 

im gettin mine fixed next week both control arms along with the bushings and tie rods and ball joints. will post pics within 2 weeks

 

A little note since I just noticed, the seller for the control arms I got is actually a sponsor of this site. I got them off ebay from WorldSuspension. I notified them about the incorrectly installed ball joints and they are checking their stock to make sure it doesn't happen to anyone else.

 

fuuuuuuuuuuuuu,

autobotguy. crazy thing is I just bought an LCA from that exact same seller on ebay.

what should I look out for on the balljoints now? just installed upsidedown? I had a driver side sold to me as a passenger side and I had to swap the balljoint / rear bushing. I noticed there was no grease port though. did you have to grease yours?

 

There were no grease ports on mine either. Then again, the stock ball joints didn't have grease ports either. Just make sure the ball joint is on the same side as the blocky side of the rearward bushing, not the curved side with the lip. You should contact WorldSuspension and let them know whats going on with the LCA they sold you. Apparently they aren't keeping tabs on the quality of their product.

 

When I bought mines the seller replaced the entire control arms because the bushings were worn out. Too bad he didn't replace the struts while he was at it.